tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-82829049057801753382024-03-24T19:32:26.239-04:00Baugh's BlogClive Baughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10523779808271053053noreply@blogger.comBlogger120125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8282904905780175338.post-48825635370534462582016-10-08T23:12:00.002-04:002019-09-14T13:06:03.261-04:00Photo Essay: Visiting Ernest Hemingway Sites in Upper Michigan<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikPu7pC7S9wgGY4AWsHTHuWjGjvd9v4Qlx5aLwuf5GaU7EMqBNAet8AzvfN60CP79fqO2Bx3ttSXrexPkv7GFdUxcbZuM-X8c1t-cc2Uo0VkqKlbnebve3zwfTtU8MXUBmEO-_SwLJc7Y/s1600/1+ernie.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikPu7pC7S9wgGY4AWsHTHuWjGjvd9v4Qlx5aLwuf5GaU7EMqBNAet8AzvfN60CP79fqO2Bx3ttSXrexPkv7GFdUxcbZuM-X8c1t-cc2Uo0VkqKlbnebve3zwfTtU8MXUBmEO-_SwLJc7Y/s400/1+ernie.jpg" width="221" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hemingway in Upper Michigan in 1920</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Ernest Hemingway's fiction
is full of the particularities of place. From his time as a reporter with the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Kansas City Star</i> (1917) and <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The Toronto Star</i> (1920-1924), he learned
how to avoid vague generalities and airy abstractions. His writing was full of specific
detail about people, places, and things. And when he began to work seriously on
his short story-writing in Paris in the mid-1920s, he learned how to keep the
stories interesting by filling them with physical detail and setting them in particular
and recognizable places. As Ernest explained to his father in a letter in 1925:
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt;">"I am trying in all my stories
to get the feeling of the actual life across - not to just depict life - or
criticize it - but to actually make it alive. So that when you have read
something by me, you actually experience the thing."</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">All of Hemingway's writing
has a strong sense of place. Whether it's a short story, a novel, or a memoir,
you always find yourself in an interesting location: Paris and Spain in the
1920s, perhaps; deep-sea fishing in Key West in the 1930s; on safari in East
Africa in both the early '30s and early '50s; and fishing for marlin in the
Gulf Stream off the coast of Cuba in the '40s and '50s. "Write what you
know" says the creative-writing teacher. Well, Hemingway knew about
fishing and hunting and bullfighting and skiing and going to war. And he knew some
of the most intriguing places to go in pursuit of these activities. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP5Qwo2jzIo7Um46D_27TWMcXLvaIfBX5x6qP2PbH_vpnXp0POs3g22LFllnci8yvqgNrDUW3B3Ox5LQcf1fHmfGOojDCT5e6L_45kSrSdzMFNK9h-c8i3iPfYzQgdkvHyIrYdV-eqBe4/s1600/2+Michigan+map.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="358" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP5Qwo2jzIo7Um46D_27TWMcXLvaIfBX5x6qP2PbH_vpnXp0POs3g22LFllnci8yvqgNrDUW3B3Ox5LQcf1fHmfGOojDCT5e6L_45kSrSdzMFNK9h-c8i3iPfYzQgdkvHyIrYdV-eqBe4/s640/2+Michigan+map.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Upper Michigan in the centre of the Great Lakes</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">One of the places that
Hemingway wrote about a lot was Upper Michigan. It was particularly important because
it provided the background for his first significant batch of literary short
stories. Upper Michigan was where he spent three months of every single summer up
to the age of 22 (except 1918—when he was serving with The Red Cross in Italy
during WWI). It usually took Hemingway at least five years to digest an
experience before writing about it. So it wasn't until the mid-1920s in Paris
that he began writing a series of short stories set in his favourite places in
Upper Michigan and featuring his alter-ego, Nick Adams. Sure, these stories
lack the sophisticated allure of 1920s Paris, for example, or the exotic and
corrupt charms of pre-revolutionary Cuba, or the drama of Civil-War-era Spain. So
when a list of places that informed and inspired Ernest Hemingway's fiction is
compiled, Upper Michigan is often ignored. Which is a mistake, because these early
short stories reveal a lot about his relationship with his parents and the
preoccupations of his late-teenage years. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWkK6PSWbHEOoPGBgHAM9E4Sn99-YK1oL1rlQm6kChzyniwS9ipEA8I8Sh91sr_BpoQOpg1UuLxeNsfkCdSb3u5KYAwxm1yfGJJsO21eZkHCl6tg3_-43Yc6enKNJZXho3XWrNc_GMNDw/s1600/3+slide_237709_1206391_free+1916.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="508" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWkK6PSWbHEOoPGBgHAM9E4Sn99-YK1oL1rlQm6kChzyniwS9ipEA8I8Sh91sr_BpoQOpg1UuLxeNsfkCdSb3u5KYAwxm1yfGJJsO21eZkHCl6tg3_-43Yc6enKNJZXho3XWrNc_GMNDw/s640/3+slide_237709_1206391_free+1916.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Ernest writing at Walloon Lake in 1916 (aged 17)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In August 2016 my good friend Jerrod
Edson and I made a two-day pilgrimage to Upper Michigan in order to visit the
key locations associated with Ernest Hemingway and his writing. We wanted to
visit and document<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(through photographs
and videos) the places that were important to him in the region—especially the
places that inspired that first batch of short stories he wrote in Paris in 1924-25.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8i6NDV3xmQ67L3tQOCSrpsFkt8DGPKXzJbNVdL9JkvNk763zSbCO8BsYhGvHkAUeJpcX64GDCqwb7Rw2MX0GBAdhAqYTigk4aSyIODYpVyHJLJ3O706JO1_3cjxs0AKfakfeCEZ_2UAQ/s1600/4+_DSC1017.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8i6NDV3xmQ67L3tQOCSrpsFkt8DGPKXzJbNVdL9JkvNk763zSbCO8BsYhGvHkAUeJpcX64GDCqwb7Rw2MX0GBAdhAqYTigk4aSyIODYpVyHJLJ3O706JO1_3cjxs0AKfakfeCEZ_2UAQ/s640/4+_DSC1017.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Jerrod and I at Harbor Springs (August, 2016)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This blog post is a comprehensive and
detailed account of the places we visited in Upper Michigan. What I have tried
to do here is to link explicitly fiction with fact. I have combined
black-and-white archival photographs from the early decades of the
twentieth-century with my own colour photographs. And I have tried to illustrate
with photos the links between particular places and specific Hemingway works of
fiction.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 20.0pt;">Harbor
Springs</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">It was always a long and tiring
journey north for the Hemingway family from their home near Chicago to their
summer cottage in the woods of Upper Michigan. Each year, Dr. Clarence Hemingway—Ernest's
father—would prepare detailed lists of the provisions required for the upcoming
three-month holiday. The clothing, housewares, tools, fishing and hunting gear,
toys, books, and non-perishable foodstuffs would be carefully packed into
trunks, crates and boxes. From Oak Park—then a small town due west of the city,
but now an outer suburb of Chicago—the Hemingways would take a train east for 9
miles (15 km) into the city, and then hire a horse and cart to move their heavy
luggage to the docks.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGrjhUdWCEVWMhE1VY4Y8mL0nVAJTm5_2TVpCtUMGQgkoUVMc6L8GK1pLu8CdwPJfVrvKT14Qh2R2z5ob3GCHWKPFacVc5ayQ9GocZV4MZYWU_qojyQcd5L8jYkUY3kgMKeCdhJvOy-_o/s1600/2+Manitou+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="330" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGrjhUdWCEVWMhE1VY4Y8mL0nVAJTm5_2TVpCtUMGQgkoUVMc6L8GK1pLu8CdwPJfVrvKT14Qh2R2z5ob3GCHWKPFacVc5ayQ9GocZV4MZYWU_qojyQcd5L8jYkUY3kgMKeCdhJvOy-_o/s640/2+Manitou+4.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Colour postcard of the <i>SS Manitou</i></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Their belongings would be loaded
onto a large lake steamer, which would carry them north-east across Lake
Michigan to Harbor Springs—a gateway, of sorts, to the summer-resort area centred
on the town of Petoskey. Steamers had begun plying the waters of the Great
Lakes in the mid-nineteenth-century, and Chicago soon became a major passenger port
on Lake Michigan. Getting north by train or car was not a viable option until
the 1920s; it was the lake steamers which opened up the north woods of Michigan
to summer holidaymakers in the 1890s. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidaRu66jNEJfbdk8CoCoal2V446I9pinroxjnd2lp2QIBls42MDf4ukIPJpFbKbAouTBCQFuIfQDp8fGXD6kS4H1O3bse70hrG6S9ky84nqeNunI2P4j2BO4rpfOd5Pmul0MZCAh-Z4GI/s1600/3+Manitou+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidaRu66jNEJfbdk8CoCoal2V446I9pinroxjnd2lp2QIBls42MDf4ukIPJpFbKbAouTBCQFuIfQDp8fGXD6kS4H1O3bse70hrG6S9ky84nqeNunI2P4j2BO4rpfOd5Pmul0MZCAh-Z4GI/s400/3+Manitou+2.jpg" width="315" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>SS Manitou</i> coming in to dock at Harbor Springs</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">When the Hemingway family sailed
north to Upper Michigan, it was often on the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">S.S. Manitou</i>, one of the more luxurious steamers. The fare was $5
per passenger (not including meals and private berths). The <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Manitou</i> was the fastest ship on Lake
Michigan. It had a top-speed of 17 knots (19.5 mph); depending on the weather
conditions and the number of stops, it would take between 24-32 hours to reach
its destination at Harbor Springs—located on the north shore of Little Traverse
Bay in Upper Michigan.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXljR5Hjao4PRJ-oHZ-4Ow_40kY0NERWA0IuzTVFsO2iiu6ayqYfJvUWzn7pC-b8CftFjCbt1zeq4wcK4sMQMouqIOhEocf3oJHA1lOtl0P2Qkwatjw0RMlRBO5dLO2DNv0bXzZvQYmVc/s1600/4+Little+Traverse+Bay+map.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="348" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXljR5Hjao4PRJ-oHZ-4Ow_40kY0NERWA0IuzTVFsO2iiu6ayqYfJvUWzn7pC-b8CftFjCbt1zeq4wcK4sMQMouqIOhEocf3oJHA1lOtl0P2Qkwatjw0RMlRBO5dLO2DNv0bXzZvQYmVc/s640/4+Little+Traverse+Bay+map.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Harbor Springs is on the northern shore of Little Traverse Bay</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFZB1EQ22PE8aKL6Zqa10P_5_b60GpQaqBSN9vfPvTwzY0zWbrcL5cn9nuU1aAY_AhGSg6M5jdo9VaSfrvaKRcZgSKmOr37TwUmtDxrkPV9ktk_ot1YJrjLxIumYqpTOtUSbBt8Yxvh4w/s1600/5+Station+in+Harbor+Springs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="392" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFZB1EQ22PE8aKL6Zqa10P_5_b60GpQaqBSN9vfPvTwzY0zWbrcL5cn9nuU1aAY_AhGSg6M5jdo9VaSfrvaKRcZgSKmOr37TwUmtDxrkPV9ktk_ot1YJrjLxIumYqpTOtUSbBt8Yxvh4w/s640/5+Station+in+Harbor+Springs.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Postcard of the dock and train station in Harbor Springs in early twentieth century</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Harbor Springs became the
preferred port for the large steamers because it was well-protected by Harbor
Point and it had the deepest natural harbor in all of the Great Lakes. The
Grand Rapids and Indiana Railroad built a spur line into town. The station was
right beside the dock; the porters would only have to move the Hemingways'
luggage about 100 yards to get it to the station depot. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Harbor Springs Bay (the Point in the distance)</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The Grand Rapids and Indiana Railway depot in Harbor Springs</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">If there was a delay, the
children would play in the dirt road, or on the grass lawns in the park next to
the station. Eventually everything and everybody was loaded onto the train,
which then made its way around the shoreline of the Bay for 11 miles (18 km) to
the town of Petoskey, on the opposite (southern) shore of Little Traverse Bay. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Hemingway children in Harbor Springs: (l-r): Ernest, Marcelline, Madeleine and Ursula</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Train from Harbor Springs to Petoskey</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">All that's left now of this
early-twentieth-century travel infrastructure is the Grand Rapids & Indiana
Railroad depot. The passenger trains no longer run up in this region. The
tracks are gone. The original dock is also long gone—replaced by a large,
covered marina belonging to Walstrom Marine. The station has been renovated; it
opened in 2012 as <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The Depot Club and
Restaurant</i>—a private dining club offering two menus: fine dining inside and
more casual food at the patio outside on Bay Street. You can walk west from <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The Depot</i> along the beach at Zorn Park
and look south over the harbour towards the Point. And then look back towards
the GR&I station and imagine the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Manitou</i>
docked in the harbour and the Hemingway family heading for the train.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The beach at Harbor Springs with Walstrom Marine marina behind</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The GR&I Railway Depot in Harbor Springs</span></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Passing The Depot, which is now a restaurant</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Jerrod and I spent most of
our time in Harbor Springs on the waterfront—looking out across the harbor
towards the Point—imagining the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Manitou </i>slowing<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> </i>coming around it and arriving at the
dock. As we walked over to check out the original Grand Rapids and Indiana
station, we passed a woman on a bicycle. She stopped—her curiosity aroused by
the professional-looking camera and tripod we were carrying. After <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">we explained</span> the nature
of our visit, she asked whether we knew about the Hemingway statue up on Main
Street. Well, no, we didn't; so after our visit to the depot, we strolled up to
Main street and found the bronze effigy outside Knox Galleries at 175 E. Main
St. It was a fitting spot to do a series of photos and a brief video.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrCrmsgiVDy3jkl-fOqahUIZUKV0CFPfJZLPdCsxW9RfEosmFQ4cbDMz1_EOdnb-PnsasBwuyEKBY49cmuR38-Gvs67JeZLz-t8r12GOgxq6OCKI4XFP6Kf-NXMtz7mUYJgo_JPgKeRF4/s1600/13+_DSC1040.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrCrmsgiVDy3jkl-fOqahUIZUKV0CFPfJZLPdCsxW9RfEosmFQ4cbDMz1_EOdnb-PnsasBwuyEKBY49cmuR38-Gvs67JeZLz-t8r12GOgxq6OCKI4XFP6Kf-NXMtz7mUYJgo_JPgKeRF4/s640/13+_DSC1040.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Me (left) and Jerrod, with our bronzed buddy Hemingway outside Knox Galleries</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Getting a large family and
its baggage to Upper Michigan in the first two decades of the twentieth-century
was really only possible by boat. But then in 1908 the Ford company in Detroit
began to mass-produce cars in sufficient numbers to make them available to
upper-middle-class families. After holding out for a while, Dr. Clarence Hemingway
finally bought one of these new-fangled things—a Ford Model T Touring car. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">1916 Model-T touring car</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Clarence was an adventurous
sort, so in the summer of 1917 (when Ernest was turning 18 years old) he
decided to try getting to Walloon Lake in the new car. There wasn't room for
all the family and their luggage, of course; so the four girls travelled by
steamer, as usual, and the rest of the family—Ernest, his parents Clarence and
Grace, and the youngest child, Leicester (then only a two-year-old)—travelled
in the Model T.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">And it was quite an
adventure. The roads were unpaved, and there were no signs to mark the way. It
took them five days to cover the 487 miles. They camped out each night in tents
(except for the fourth day, when they stayed with Clarence's brother George, and
his family, in Ironton). Most of the luggage they needed on route was stashed <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>in the back—so Leicester had to sit on his
mother's lap for the whole trip! Ernest sat up front with his father. Some of
their stuff was carried on the outside of the car: a couple of spare tires were
roped to the driver's door; and other equipment was packed on the running
board.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Clarence, Grace, Ernest (second from right) and Leicester with Uncle George's wife and children</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Clarence kept a brief diary
during their journey—with notes about times, distances and costs. The car would
average 20 miles per gallon. The total cost for gasoline and oil for the
five-day journey was $8.32. The top speed for a Model T in 1917 was 45 m.p.h.
But they could seldom run at that speed for extended periods. Clarence had
brought a saw along with them. Ernie was often called upon to cut a handful of
branches that would then be jammed under the wheels to provide traction on
uphill sandy patches of road. The 30-mile stretch from Traverse City to Walloon
Lake was especially challenging; they averaged only 8 mph. Well, it was a
memorable experiment. But it came as no surprise when Dr. Hemingway had the car
shipped from Manistee (south-west of Traverse City) to Chicago on the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">S.S. Missouri</i>. A detailed account of
this adventure north by Model T car can be found in an article written for <a href="http://www.saugatuck.com/emailhtm/MUSI_NEWSRELEASE/hemmingway.pdf"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Michigan History Magazine</i></a> by Morris
Buske, a retired teacher who worked at Oak Park High School, which Ernest had
attended from 1913-1917.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">1884 drawing of Harbor Springs (the Point behind and Petoskey in the far distance)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The final thing I wanted to
do in Harbor Springs was to get a photograph from higher up in the town—a vista
looking down over both the lower town (in the foreground), the harbour and the
point (in the middle), and Petoskey (way off in the distance across Little
Traverse Bay). There is an impressive drawing done in 1844 of just such a view;
it is included in Constance Cappel's book. I hoped to capture a colour
photograph of a similar view. Navigating by instinct, we drove up to a ridge above
town and found the perfect location on East Bluff Drive. We could see the white
buildings of Petoskey far across the Bay. It was late afternoon, but there was
still a couple of hours of good light left. We got in the car and took the same
route on M-119 ('M' for Michigan highway) as the GR&I train would have
followed along the north shore of the Bay.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFGKskVw1IJk4SL29147UKDxLA_Q3r978Lq4uPmB9J3zFV4kc5SzAyl0NUCvDM2NVoJpFGhg58sbVGqLm28PT6B_DE7Z9XNhFaqq3W0A7A3lwEhtXbI_7j0EnmPyf5DyZgp1UGoMuTDBA/s1600/17+_DSC1064.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFGKskVw1IJk4SL29147UKDxLA_Q3r978Lq4uPmB9J3zFV4kc5SzAyl0NUCvDM2NVoJpFGhg58sbVGqLm28PT6B_DE7Z9XNhFaqq3W0A7A3lwEhtXbI_7j0EnmPyf5DyZgp1UGoMuTDBA/s640/17+_DSC1064.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Looking over Harbor Springs from up on East Bluff Drive</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 20.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Petoskey</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Map of Petoskey with our destinations labelled</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Grand Rapids and Indiana Railway depot in Petoskey (looking north)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The train from Harbor
Springs would arrive in Petoskey at the Grand Rapids & Indiana station on
Bay Street. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Hemingways would
transfer themselves and their baggage on to a smaller "dummy train";
this was a seasonal, suburban-style train that would take vacationers further south
to hotels and cottages on Lake Charlevoix and Bear Lake (rechristened later as
Walloon Lake). </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The GR&I Railway depot (now an office complex)</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYRPCMnfRjfIBVDekpFgWwqGswLiKBAhr26FFElH5_l3-0emCBU9xk9zoBXCzBcScdRyKamsy4rcBj3imyj0gL4PUGH1bnWPnYAiAw8-d__JpJPPrRRBpNLlLR-UFNJ4NxmOOZhcIbfUk/s1600/4++1901+Train+station.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="496" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYRPCMnfRjfIBVDekpFgWwqGswLiKBAhr26FFElH5_l3-0emCBU9xk9zoBXCzBcScdRyKamsy4rcBj3imyj0gL4PUGH1bnWPnYAiAw8-d__JpJPPrRRBpNLlLR-UFNJ4NxmOOZhcIbfUk/s640/4++1901+Train+station.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Looking south at the GR&I Railway depot</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">If there was a delay waiting
for this local train, the family would wander around that area of town. On one
such occasion (in 1908), Clarence and Grace—Ernest's parents—had their photo
taken in a nearby tourist office. It was the equivalent of a modern "photo
booth". The backdrop features a native Indian motif.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdBq2_dJfDjlAKpA0J3P8s9TnP-coqLnCGafGbyFwu7UeIOn-jkaJM174nSYzihrAgVKaEUeTGwF9oY_lkD0ypwxtU64C3hcPNFBBHbb3Sa8fIVjxNMDP5he2zggREZyIPFk0LpCNnE5Y/s1600/5+Hem+parents+at+GR+%2526+I+railroad+station.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdBq2_dJfDjlAKpA0J3P8s9TnP-coqLnCGafGbyFwu7UeIOn-jkaJM174nSYzihrAgVKaEUeTGwF9oY_lkD0ypwxtU64C3hcPNFBBHbb3Sa8fIVjxNMDP5he2zggREZyIPFk0LpCNnE5Y/s400/5+Hem+parents+at+GR+%2526+I+railroad+station.jpg" width="298" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Clarence and Grace Hemingway in Petoskey in 1908</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The GR&I depot was built
in 1892. The building is now called the Pennsylvania Plaza, and it serves as an
office complex. Located conveniently across Bay Street is the Perry Hotel. This
station is mentioned in Hemingway's satirical novella <u>The Torrents of Spring</u>
(1926). The story's protagonist, Yogi Johnson, leaves <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Brown's Beanery</i> on Howard Street ("The Best By Test") and
walks north out of town on the railroad tracks with a naked "Indian
squaw" via the GR&I depot. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikShzh_meDG5ydeyQtaYkFiQ4qwPVhme9LR7yFiWBev5sfL4q0a9mroYVvkMX1hY4h8dHg9JRheVdwcfJepXGV0ypj75xvQ9lDzzODB1xvjsXAnbSabTPMAwMhqllMVnm4TE7quDqM9HM/s1600/6.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikShzh_meDG5ydeyQtaYkFiQ4qwPVhme9LR7yFiWBev5sfL4q0a9mroYVvkMX1hY4h8dHg9JRheVdwcfJepXGV0ypj75xvQ9lDzzODB1xvjsXAnbSabTPMAwMhqllMVnm4TE7quDqM9HM/s640/6.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The old depot is now called the Pennsylvania Plaza office complex</span></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNuB82JgtWHEvxhBrfCExRuD2nm8EGm1PbjA-JnINtSTtxgllclEHbxXvLw1MINoL_9WDRMsvMBQ9JYdFPEe_lnNQIe4fkkyZQPeuGyUADW1RTD11Tbd00iLHUaosXyMl2uIjGf1Xiw_M/s1600/7++_DSC1311.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNuB82JgtWHEvxhBrfCExRuD2nm8EGm1PbjA-JnINtSTtxgllclEHbxXvLw1MINoL_9WDRMsvMBQ9JYdFPEe_lnNQIe4fkkyZQPeuGyUADW1RTD11Tbd00iLHUaosXyMl2uIjGf1Xiw_M/s640/7++_DSC1311.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The Grand Rapids &
Indiana Railroad promoted the wonders of Upper Michigan throughout the Midwest.
In newspaper advertising and tourist brochures, they referred to themselves as
"the fishing line".</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Unlike the situation in
Harbor Springs, the old train rails in downtown Petoskey have not been removed.
You can stand on the rails looking south and imagine the dummy train chugging its
way south to Walloon Lake in 1918 with Clarence and Grace Hemingway on board,
together with their six children and the many boxes and crates of provisions
for the summer ahead.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSvXrsOU7mGYeq-NOKDpSwv3WIGK3Gu32a6Tbm4UHNR11xq-fOfWu8d0sbvqHnjOc7r1L4QXkMNkGygYqYXvCjZALH8qYHhV1G7WM98YSvMILv9fKp1h_XMULLkYVewHrKT7tk_uezJFs/s1600/9++_DSC1295.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSvXrsOU7mGYeq-NOKDpSwv3WIGK3Gu32a6Tbm4UHNR11xq-fOfWu8d0sbvqHnjOc7r1L4QXkMNkGygYqYXvCjZALH8qYHhV1G7WM98YSvMILv9fKp1h_XMULLkYVewHrKT7tk_uezJFs/s640/9++_DSC1295.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The unused railway tracks going south through Petoskey</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Across the street from the
station sits the Perry Hotel. It is located at the corner of Bay Street and
Lewis Street. It was built in 1899 (the year of Hemingway's birth), and was the
last of the original resort hotels that served vacationers at the turn of the
twentieth century.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The Perry Hotel—built in Hemingway's birth-year (1899)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In June 1916, Hemingway and
his high school friend Lewis Clarahan set out on a hiking adventure. They crossed
Lake Michigan by steamer to Frankfort, and then hiked north from river to river
in Upper Michigan fishing and camping. They parted ways at the Kalkaska
railroad station. Clarahan headed south back to Chicago. Ernie took the train
north to Petoskey. He stayed for one night at The Perry Hotel and paid 75 cents
for a room. The next day he hiked south to Horton Bay to stay with the Dilworth
family.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcbiPOvHj3DKU0A49-ZnSyHMMIWYgrbXhWwtft2ivFAmPUexgRxEYYCLfsBOVnT3dmQeQgi73-y_F2twymRHeRXIRu0xZ2_tq8RbTDV9H3ZALedarlnIfTDfas3jcgkmMkTd8k-Vl1l9o/s1600/12+1916+Hem+and+Lewis+Clarahan.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcbiPOvHj3DKU0A49-ZnSyHMMIWYgrbXhWwtft2ivFAmPUexgRxEYYCLfsBOVnT3dmQeQgi73-y_F2twymRHeRXIRu0xZ2_tq8RbTDV9H3ZALedarlnIfTDfas3jcgkmMkTd8k-Vl1l9o/s640/12+1916+Hem+and+Lewis+Clarahan.jpg" width="466" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Lewis Clarahan and Hemingway (right) in Upper Michigan in June, 1916</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT53mIyiUZUzbMDOnzP-xZLQX9PhAdXgQEon4cI-LBn8rZ1JT0JOXbOn9ps63cxeDbEZ8mkO3pFwcYCt8LkrIXSnO3EV59q0_v6-4Xyt0nauKkS9z02wAkLjSDM8KdnqzvvsjgGUyCPkI/s1600/13+Perry+Hotel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="292" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT53mIyiUZUzbMDOnzP-xZLQX9PhAdXgQEon4cI-LBn8rZ1JT0JOXbOn9ps63cxeDbEZ8mkO3pFwcYCt8LkrIXSnO3EV59q0_v6-4Xyt0nauKkS9z02wAkLjSDM8KdnqzvvsjgGUyCPkI/s640/13+Perry+Hotel.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Perry Hotel before Lewis Street was paved</span></span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYzNmpRi1kP4QIE282DViUVtMtlJwJApWFR2Fx0vGeaFaCJhcbc0w4QD89EeYIDGzE6lioYjtqkc3VrgbakvYYUi_LSnJNv3Xu9hAOxZ5CSGkJp8ylaLEwjnQAfwJ6UEeK7BfJIALdAeE/s1600/14+_DSC1296.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYzNmpRi1kP4QIE282DViUVtMtlJwJApWFR2Fx0vGeaFaCJhcbc0w4QD89EeYIDGzE6lioYjtqkc3VrgbakvYYUi_LSnJNv3Xu9hAOxZ5CSGkJp8ylaLEwjnQAfwJ6UEeK7BfJIALdAeE/s640/14+_DSC1296.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Perry Hotel: Hemingway stayed here for a night in June, 1916 (the room cost 75 cents)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">There was another railway
station in Petoskey. It was built in 1892 by the Chicago & West Michigan
Railroad (CWMR). In 1899 the CWMR merged with two other railroad companies to
form the Père Marquette Railway. So this depot—located at the junction of East
Lake Street and Bayfront Drive, just across from the Municipal Marina—is known
as the Père Marquette Station. With the eventual demise of the Railway, this
station was converted to The Little Traverse History Museum in the 1960s. It
houses permanent exhibits about local history.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdM0anPCb4x6jyLzCO3xR5rjZxr3HSdO7GxXsnr6CXyINriUhRTIcVNNJzyR36fqvZCUB9WmvuuIDM7Udv-eTfKaWp9L5TbVMSc3XvUykj6WeprOnPB3CrgiDoaSYmwKJljyl0L7skY94/s1600/14a+Pere+Marquette+Station+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="390" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdM0anPCb4x6jyLzCO3xR5rjZxr3HSdO7GxXsnr6CXyINriUhRTIcVNNJzyR36fqvZCUB9WmvuuIDM7Udv-eTfKaWp9L5TbVMSc3XvUykj6WeprOnPB3CrgiDoaSYmwKJljyl0L7skY94/s640/14a+Pere+Marquette+Station+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The other railway station in town: the Pere Marquette depot</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The south side of the old Pere Marquette depot—it now houses a local history museum</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">There is a whole wall on the
south-west end of the museum devoted to Ernest Hemingway's ties to Petoskey and
the surrounding region. There are only a few artifacts here linked directly to
Hemingway, but there are some first editions of his books on display, and
half-a-dozen excellent wall displays about the Hemingway family and their time
in Upper Michigan. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Permanent Hemingway display in the Little Traverse History Museum</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">High chairs used by the Hemingway children at the family's Windemere Cottage</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">—they are visible in the photograph on the wall</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">One of Ernest's closest
friends in Petoskey was Edwin "Dutch" Pailthorp. They hung out
together a lot in the winter of 1919-1920, when Ernie was living in town. When
Hemingway visited Petoskey briefly in 1947, he gave Dutch inscribed copies of <u>A
Farewell to Arms</u>, <u>Death in the Afternoon</u>, and <u>For Whom the Bell
Tolls</u>. Mr. Pailthorp donated these valuable items to the museum along with
a Christmas card he received from Ernie and his wife Mary. Hemingway loved to
give everybody nicknames: it is amusing to read the inscription in the Christmas
card to the Pailthorps—"Dear Dutch and Mrs. Dutch", it reads.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Hemingway first editions donated by "Dutch" Pailthorpe to the museum</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Descendants of Liz and Jim
Dilworth, who ran a holiday resort and restaurant in Horton Bay, have loaned
three items to the Museum: a helmet, a canteen, and an ammunition belt.
Hemingway stayed with the Dilworths often in his late-teen years—especially
when relations were strained with his mother Grace. In 1919, during his first
trip back to the area after his service as a Red Cross ambulance driver in
Italy during WWI, he left a few American army objects at the Dilworth's
Pinehurst Cottage. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Three U.S. army objects left by Hemingway at Pinehurst Cottage in Horton Bay</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">As with the railway depot in
Harbor Springs, the railroad tracks here have been removed. But there's no
mistaking that this building used to be a train station; it has the characteristic
extending eaves that would have protected passengers from sun and rain, when
they were waiting for a train. The museum inside has the station office
paraphernalia next to the bay window on the north side: ticket dispensary,
telegraph machine, and so on.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Typical eaves of a train depot</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The Museum has the depot office set up in the bay window—with appropriate artifacts</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Hemingway would have used
this station if he was taking a train south down the coast to Charlevoix,
rather than the "dummy train" to Walloon Lake. He mentions The Père
Marquette railroad tracks west of the station in his high school story
"Sepi Jingan" (1917) and in the short story "The Indians Moved
Away".</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Looking down on the Little Traverse History Museum from West Lake Street</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The Hemingway family seldom
came up to Petoskey during their summer vacations at Walloon Lake. They brought
all the non-perishable foodstuffs with them from Chicago; and perishable food—like
eggs, milk, meat, fruit and vegetables—would have been obtained from their
neighbours at the Bacon farm, or from stores in Walloon Village. But around the
time that Ernest and his older sister Marcelline graduated from high school,
they began hanging out more with friends beyond their family's Windemere
Cottage. Ernie preferred Horton Bay; Marcelline spent her time in Petoskey.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In the Fall of 1919,
Hemingway did not go back to Oak Park with the rest of his family. He craved
independence—especially from his mother. He stayed with the Dilworths in Horton
Bay, to help them with the seed-potato harvest; and then in October he moved up
to Petoskey to hang out with his friends there for the winter—especially
Marjorie Bump and Edwin "Dutch" Pailthorp.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Ernest rented a room here in winter of 1919-1920 (corner of Woodland and State St.)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Hemingway found a room at
Potter's Rooming House on 602 East State St (corner of Woodland Ave). He rented
an upstairs room from Eva Potter in the front corner of the house. He was determined
now to try his hand at writing stories for the popular magazines. Eva's
daughter Hazel—who worked down in Mancelona, but came home for the
weekends—noted the endless sound of Ernie banging away on the typewriter in his
room. He worked hard at his stories during this period, but he couldn't get
anything published—his fiction was still too immature and derivative. Hazel
also recalled him spending a lot of time with Marjorie Bump. It's likely that
one of the main reasons he moved up to Petoskey that winter was to be near her.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeV_WYKHmrnpYn-7HVNl2Hg__zPRZ33Z51DsH8ZLvmPIhg-aFCZPvQiLEsioVvbQx911EfSezdgVl56QsXTjqg7wFB5aRY-6Bh-RbPzcGqB2ylfGb_1LOSJk8Pyq6S7Vu6ZToeZCcqvZg/s1600/25+marjorie+bump+at+Potter%2527s+rooming+house.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeV_WYKHmrnpYn-7HVNl2Hg__zPRZ33Z51DsH8ZLvmPIhg-aFCZPvQiLEsioVvbQx911EfSezdgVl56QsXTjqg7wFB5aRY-6Bh-RbPzcGqB2ylfGb_1LOSJk8Pyq6S7Vu6ZToeZCcqvZg/s400/25+marjorie+bump+at+Potter%2527s+rooming+house.jpg" width="305" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Marjorie Bump</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In the summer of 1919,
Marjorie had been working as a waitress in the restaurant that Liz Dilworth ran
in Horton Bay. Ernest took a shine to her. She was three years younger than
Hemingway. She moved back to Petoskey in September for her last year of high
school. Ernest would regularly walk from his room on State Street to the high
school in the afternoon to meet her. They would spend the rest of the afternoon
together walking around town and talking. Hemingway used his memories of
Marjorie Bump to create the character of Marjorie in the two related short
stories he wrote in the spring of 1924 in Paris: "The End of
Something" and "The Three-Day Blow".</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Hemingway rented a room here at the Potter Rooming House</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">One of Hemingway's regular
rituals when he was living on State Street was to walk a couple of blocks north
to East Mitchell St, in order to visit the library. He would read the
newspapers and borrow books. The Petoskey Public Library was in the Carnegie
Building—yet another public library built with funding from the Carnegie
Foundation (in 190<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">1</span>). Eventually the library was moved—but to a building right
across the street. The Carnegie Building is now a community centre and houses
some historical archives.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Carnegie Building on E. Mitchell St. was the town's library in early twentieth century</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The Carnegie Building in 1901</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">During his stay in Petoskey
in 1919, Hemingway was invited by the "Arts Study Group" of the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Ladies' Aid Society</i> to speak at the
library in December about his WWI experiences. This was a reprise of the talk
he had given to students at Oak Park High School, his <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">alma mater</i>, the previous March. He wore his uniform—including the
sweeping cloak with the silver clasp and the highly-polished cordovan boots—and
hobbled in with the walking stick he used all the time (because of the
extensive shrapnel wounds he had suffered in his legs). An impressive sight. It
was a dramatic presentation, during which Ernest declared that, after his
wounding at the front, "it seemed more reasonable to die than live."
The women were moved.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">One of the women who heard
Hemingway's talk at the Library that evening in December, 1919 was particularly
impressed—and that would have important consequences for his future. Harriet
Connable happened to be in Petoskey visiting her mother. She went along to hear
Ernest's talk primarily because she was a friend of his mother Grace. Harriet was
the wife of Ralph Connable, who ran the Woolworth chain in Canada. The
Connables happened to be looking for someone to keep company with their teenage
son, while they went south to Palm Beach, Florida for a three-month winter
vacation. Their son had been lame from birth; they were looking for a young man
who could keep their son active and out of the house. The sporty, confident,
and out-going Hemingway seemed the ideal candidate. Ernest had no other
prospects at the time so he jumped at the opportunity: he would be paid well,
have full access to the Connables' mansion in Toronto (not to mention their
wine cellar and drinks cabinet), and enjoy free travel and interesting new
experiences. Ralph also happened to have important contacts at <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The Toronto Star</i>. His recommendation got
Ernest in the door at the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Star</i>. This
led to journalistic assignments with the paper and, ultimately, to the unique
position of roving, freelance European correspondent based in Paris. Hemingway
took up the position in Toronto with the Connables in January, 1920.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Hemingway (right) and Bill Smith on Mitchell St. (near the Library) ca. 1920</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">One block north of the
Carnegie Library building is the City Park Grill at 432 East Lake Street. It
was built in 1899. In Hemingway's time this bar/restaurant was known as The
Annex. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The City Park Grill on East Lake Street (formerly The Annex)</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0iRNhsBDewUdO1x0Rs2EPVih316Yi1h0FbM4rEEWQVW0q09gEGAaJkTeLfiTV3POvIlDKM8Hx65egzjLdDzBc8cLHwg-wJnJGAgXw-kpX8U606IWHXHH1_EkXuLvqdFYNb9P1JEdlBeU/s1600/32a++Grill+Cafe+-+Annex+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="364" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0iRNhsBDewUdO1x0Rs2EPVih316Yi1h0FbM4rEEWQVW0q09gEGAaJkTeLfiTV3POvIlDKM8Hx65egzjLdDzBc8cLHwg-wJnJGAgXw-kpX8U606IWHXHH1_EkXuLvqdFYNb9P1JEdlBeU/s640/32a++Grill+Cafe+-+Annex+1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The Annex (on the right)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Before Prohibition took
effect in Petoskey in 1920, The Annex was a billiards hall and saloon.
Hemingway used to hang out here, playing billiards, drinking, and making bets
on bare-knuckle fights in the nearby park. It is thought to be the inspiration
for the saloon setting in Hemingway's short story "A Man of the
World" (June, 1957). The plush Cushman House Hotel was once attached to
the west side of The Annex. Ernie stayed in the hotel briefly in October 1919,
before he moved to Eva Potter's rooming house. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4bEgzcCqCyljJWljbCztzoadhhN75PJbCl1U3dd3XvT7MAIwvtMQyYmQX5dW0hdQc8afOOu5skVDlseJVBDba7_esFRQA90F_ox-XsfZpV70EwAhNw5fVgMn3V0cBcMxoVPIcpDvtGfo/s1600/33+City+Park+Grill.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="396" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4bEgzcCqCyljJWljbCztzoadhhN75PJbCl1U3dd3XvT7MAIwvtMQyYmQX5dW0hdQc8afOOu5skVDlseJVBDba7_esFRQA90F_ox-XsfZpV70EwAhNw5fVgMn3V0cBcMxoVPIcpDvtGfo/s640/33+City+Park+Grill.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The Annex (left) next to the Cushman House Hotel (Ernest stayed here in Oct. 1919)</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">A Michigan History Society Hemingway plaque—this one outside the City Park Grill</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The City Park Grill makes
much of its Hemingway connection. There is a drawing of Ernie (based on Yousuf
Karsh's famous 1957 photo) above the bar, near the seat that is reputed to have
been his favourite (second from the end, near the front door).</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Jerrod sitting in what is reputedly Hemingway's spot at the bar—second from the left</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYwhTuR242GuSC_Mhrub-aVFqHXA8IsnEHgDLr_UXXyppUCV8kysQBp8A6na9bjwQneRCEvRybxJzwd8lD9hmIK2LzhoKPoX9Q11Bc9TdmHqqnuASUqqjCVznXOVtmM0u42We2jnviCZo/s1600/36++_DSC1155.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYwhTuR242GuSC_Mhrub-aVFqHXA8IsnEHgDLr_UXXyppUCV8kysQBp8A6na9bjwQneRCEvRybxJzwd8lD9hmIK2LzhoKPoX9Q11Bc9TdmHqqnuASUqqjCVznXOVtmM0u42We2jnviCZo/s640/36++_DSC1155.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Pilar liquour behind the bar (Pilar was the name of Hemingway's boat)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">There are three Hemingway
sites to visit on nearby Howard Street. The Harold Grant Building used to stand
at 210 Howard Street. It was the site of Braun's Restaurant, thought to be the
model for Brown's Beanery ("The Best By Test") in Hemingway's satirical
novella <u>The Torrents of Spring</u>. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjch0-DiJtaZsLvDC_-oOGpUC-OdFm1YE5s9VD2goVG5T42xsHed0bh9xsMtERA0rgDuTfcIW8PqELtBMzECODcjLaDJE82dJdmcTGdh8XVcrdxgGcQcncMhJTQuMFrdZzf77UXDxUOI-g/s1600/37+_DSC1275.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjch0-DiJtaZsLvDC_-oOGpUC-OdFm1YE5s9VD2goVG5T42xsHed0bh9xsMtERA0rgDuTfcIW8PqELtBMzECODcjLaDJE82dJdmcTGdh8XVcrdxgGcQcncMhJTQuMFrdZzf77UXDxUOI-g/s400/37+_DSC1275.JPG" width="263" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Jesperson's Restaurant on Howard Street</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">One block south, at 312
Howard Street, is Jesperson's Restaurant. This was a favourite diner of
Hemingway and his friend "Dutch" Pailthorp. The long counter here is
thought to have been in Hemingway's mind when he wrote his short story
"The Killers" (1927). And the proprietor, Yorgen Jesperson, must have
been in Ernie's mind when he came up with the name Yogi Johnson for one of the
two protagonists in <u>The Torrents of Spring</u>.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx2FKjxjDB2q06eSg4-kR1as2XsnVht5HWAOzUHH0MVNUtMB-k0EfzbTNLQ7Iyb26zheTy_Y80Vu8Te_kfao_e4SZSeZ4V67l2acBigDo5Nx3hk3vChGrF_RsF5jFv010zj3WENX0WAbs/s1600/38+_DSC1268.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx2FKjxjDB2q06eSg4-kR1as2XsnVht5HWAOzUHH0MVNUtMB-k0EfzbTNLQ7Iyb26zheTy_Y80Vu8Te_kfao_e4SZSeZ4V67l2acBigDo5Nx3hk3vChGrF_RsF5jFv010zj3WENX0WAbs/s640/38+_DSC1268.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Petoskey's Flatiron Building</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp426xmwpSeUv7CD9OxAJd7FrA0XJdWSb257OhrfE9KRGQMovXqu9Vmil5uCDQ-66KHCQFumAmt7qjgEqE4ncWbWZNeUKKVBlKCA0Ez7TSSn_nmu8du2B2-plNVVP0S6YDRgXHPc-7PvU/s1600/39+Barber+shop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="434" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp426xmwpSeUv7CD9OxAJd7FrA0XJdWSb257OhrfE9KRGQMovXqu9Vmil5uCDQ-66KHCQFumAmt7qjgEqE4ncWbWZNeUKKVBlKCA0Ez7TSSn_nmu8du2B2-plNVVP0S6YDRgXHPc-7PvU/s640/39+Barber+shop.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The Flatiron Building</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Across the street from
Jesperson's is the Flatiron building. In 1919, a couple of stores north of the triangular
corner—at 309 Howard Street—sat the McCarthy Barber Shop. Hemingway probably
visited this establishment at some point for a shave or haircut; no doubt he
would have enjoyed the freewheeling jesting that would have gone on in there
all day. A brief scene in <u>The Torrents of Spring</u>, has two Indians entering
McCarthy's for a shave, while protagonist Scripps O'Neill watches from the
street outside.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCpuoCsjrlNrVNyTz-1WkwqmyM3EEywY6jzcYgwQb_lpyAVJ5YIFMm-zuAEPQ23bq1zQI5tPCp2aE8LOYnqn1oz2s4AGuTrwgNqYv9XaVyQwFXxldjSDibKT5f7KD55MS9I9fhBOuSFMg/s1600/40+_DSC1181.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCpuoCsjrlNrVNyTz-1WkwqmyM3EEywY6jzcYgwQb_lpyAVJ5YIFMm-zuAEPQ23bq1zQI5tPCp2aE8LOYnqn1oz2s4AGuTrwgNqYv9XaVyQwFXxldjSDibKT5f7KD55MS9I9fhBOuSFMg/s640/40+_DSC1181.JPG" width="420" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The Hemingway shelves at the McLean & Eakin bookstore in Petoskey</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6t1ylUW5ulrFJ2L6IRLtL5ZnCz12q95bBlQgUNazG8T9y_9UJ5PiW14_WmaCHYrxbGIABz6U_k_9rb-rG-kPknykkZwlg7yMh2ZTDn-UN6NCkS100vH63NDQiaEuBFyi3Z4_WW9SI14c/s1600/41+_DSC1183.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6t1ylUW5ulrFJ2L6IRLtL5ZnCz12q95bBlQgUNazG8T9y_9UJ5PiW14_WmaCHYrxbGIABz6U_k_9rb-rG-kPknykkZwlg7yMh2ZTDn-UN6NCkS100vH63NDQiaEuBFyi3Z4_WW9SI14c/s640/41+_DSC1183.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">I made two purchases: <u>The Torrents of Spring</u> and </span><u><span style="font-size: small;">Hemingway on Fishing</span></u></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">When we arrived in Petoskey
on Monday morning, we found a really good cafe/diner for breakfast called Roast
& Toast. Right next door, coincidentally, is McLean & Eakin—an
excellent bookstore. By the front window they had an entire section devoted to
Hemingway. I bought a copy of <u>The Torrents of Spring</u> for myself, and a
copy of <u>Hemingway on Fishing</u> for a friend who is an avid fisher.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2Py74144GuBuEjYYlv3J8Iphzg3_k2jTiR2yEr3OrxjvW-ACO0si6bhlwcn1Qp73Sx5yVoTHw2-bRsOKnHC7L8PIcl1EkNsh9GmcbRh_TkCjAzya5VpQaG-IqTfe-W1cXL7dFOuipMI8/s1600/42+Ernie.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2Py74144GuBuEjYYlv3J8Iphzg3_k2jTiR2yEr3OrxjvW-ACO0si6bhlwcn1Qp73Sx5yVoTHw2-bRsOKnHC7L8PIcl1EkNsh9GmcbRh_TkCjAzya5VpQaG-IqTfe-W1cXL7dFOuipMI8/s640/42+Ernie.jpg" width="444" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Hemingway leaving Petoskey for Toronto in January 1920</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Ernest Hemingway's winter
stay in Petoskey ended in early January, 1920. He took the train to Toronto, in
order to take up the three-month job for the Connable family. There is a
characteristic photograph of Ernie—probably taken on the day he left town,
because he has a suitcase in his left hand—standing outside the Potter Rooming
House on State Street. He is standing in the snow, supporting himself with a
cane.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He's wearing the leather coat, with
a sheepskin lining, that he wore all through that winter. And look carefully;
there's a bottle of wine sticking out of the coat's right-hand pocket!</span></div>
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Lake</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfVhFbshVSYy4d2_SjH0F_mhzNa-mb6slAgMuk-bOHZYbgvmaZ5t-AnAyR7JWaEZuDIAzB8wsd3hptznyCcy8frdnlu_X5Ea7mX8QGSDKJUkQdj0lpBRxJuKt8zz66lIwIlxWvxJ7zYIo/s1600/1+Google+Maps+-+Mozilla+Firefox+8272016+52042+PM.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="358" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfVhFbshVSYy4d2_SjH0F_mhzNa-mb6slAgMuk-bOHZYbgvmaZ5t-AnAyR7JWaEZuDIAzB8wsd3hptznyCcy8frdnlu_X5Ea7mX8QGSDKJUkQdj0lpBRxJuKt8zz66lIwIlxWvxJ7zYIo/s640/1+Google+Maps+-+Mozilla+Firefox+8272016+52042+PM.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The Walloon Lake region: Walloon Lake (right) and Lake Charlevoix (left)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">After spending Monday
morning exploring Hemingway sites in Petoskey, Jerrod and I left town around
noon. It would have been faster to get to Walloon Lake village by heading south
on the M-131. But since our first destination was to be the Hemingway-family
cottage on the northern shore of Walloon Lake—which would have required a
diversion west from the main road anyway—we decided to take Resort Pike Road.
It runs south from the western outskirts of Petoskey and ends up at the lake
just a few hundred metres east of Windemere Cottage. This route would have been
the favoured one back in 1900-1920. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmKmDcf__TOlXa5zd_3nTFyswI9vfY3gc1M87sKhOiVf80WJZBteYFYpZgsFE4l2_eJjLkfYKUPlXz5Y4FED_n0GlBkeXaDzORH9kNU_iLln0e-e8k3HVOLB0W5nFg5_z4zwwkO-z02DE/s1600/2++_DSC1389.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmKmDcf__TOlXa5zd_3nTFyswI9vfY3gc1M87sKhOiVf80WJZBteYFYpZgsFE4l2_eJjLkfYKUPlXz5Y4FED_n0GlBkeXaDzORH9kNU_iLln0e-e8k3HVOLB0W5nFg5_z4zwwkO-z02DE/s640/2++_DSC1389.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Looking north on Resort Pike Road towards Petoskey</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In Hemingway's time here,
Resort Pike Road was a dirt road. As he got older, he started to spend time
away from his family at Windemere Cottage; he hung out with members of the Bacon
family nearby, and interacted with some of the Ojibway Indians who lived in a
settlement on the north side of Indian Garden Road. Sometimes he went up to
Petoskey on Resort Pike Road in a horse and cart with Joseph and Carl Bacon.
One such trip is fictionalized in Hemingway's story "Ten Indians"
(1927). He also mentions Resort Pike Road in "The Indians Moved Away".
The road rises steadily uphill as you drive south out of Petoskey; and
eventually it heads downhill as you approach Walloon lake. There are moments on
the road when you can get impressive vistas looking north towards Little
Traverse Bay and, later, towards Walloon Lake to the south.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLfI59X570XPgAAZfZMiNxaZvTtbEt31AGiwtmJnfuKddkypRH57jNboL5RMTsMn2xeNLZiZsxZ3zXIe_aQNY0QZcbJyCRpksKWZ0ibCX-7TJsSSSYJKXwY5KXzKIlbetS-nbwSi7AI3s/s1600/3+Google+Maps+-+Mozilla+Firefox+8272016+52531+PM.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLfI59X570XPgAAZfZMiNxaZvTtbEt31AGiwtmJnfuKddkypRH57jNboL5RMTsMn2xeNLZiZsxZ3zXIe_aQNY0QZcbJyCRpksKWZ0ibCX-7TJsSSSYJKXwY5KXzKIlbetS-nbwSi7AI3s/s640/3+Google+Maps+-+Mozilla+Firefox+8272016+52531+PM.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Hemingway sites labelled on close-up map of Walloon Lake</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">When we reached the end of
Resort Pike Road, we were on the north shore of Walloon Lake. There was a small
area available to park vehicles. We got out of the car and discovered an
attractive public park that gave us access to a small beach. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDmo_JtLCX5LgcjgoZs8USfOnVpJ1rAs7TX08YaJ95CSWkP0qiV7TRHjuSCVN67PQ0iZSbCKnjI8n52ig6ZMhEwTI6xuBK0zxPPy6yreZzmEIr9o9V4yJTNbc-dTjA2BOMZyMYo9mKhGo/s1600/4+_DSC1325.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDmo_JtLCX5LgcjgoZs8USfOnVpJ1rAs7TX08YaJ95CSWkP0qiV7TRHjuSCVN67PQ0iZSbCKnjI8n52ig6ZMhEwTI6xuBK0zxPPy6yreZzmEIr9o9V4yJTNbc-dTjA2BOMZyMYo9mKhGo/s640/4+_DSC1325.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Beach on Walloon Lake at the Resort Township Park (southern end of Resort Pike Road)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Walloon Lake was gouged out
of the landscape by retreating glacial ice. It covers 4,270 acres (about 17
km²) and has a maximum depth of <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>about
100 ft (30 m). It's one-quarter the size of nearby Lake Charlevoix. Although
the western tip of the lake is only a mile (1.6 km) from Lake Michigan, it sits
100 ft above it. Walloon Lake is fed mostly by groundwater. When the Hemingways
first encountered the lake, it was known as Bear Lake; Bear River drains out of
the east end of the lake at Walloon Village and flows north to Little Traverse
Bay.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUoFqbA93uV6Shcghnn0Np3veUNPhIG_4XV6hCkdHaQRyGjID5WtOIW4ly7wNdGvwrTZ5EWEFepnGxYpiKFSklAfEVFTCO9AkGynr4KOvvWfBLSFbYYD_WKFaDwckkMXB0AICzGa9iUmQ/s1600/5+_DSC1332.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUoFqbA93uV6Shcghnn0Np3veUNPhIG_4XV6hCkdHaQRyGjID5WtOIW4ly7wNdGvwrTZ5EWEFepnGxYpiKFSklAfEVFTCO9AkGynr4KOvvWfBLSFbYYD_WKFaDwckkMXB0AICzGa9iUmQ/s640/5+_DSC1332.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Jerrod scrawling into the beach sand</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6mGHpicflKB_6ia_WqVp167D9RZSFjwyhilX3k0r_5HsCTYrzTknCIk_iupawRJtGzMv0xyUzZiv7MMCSg7AUBZKYeztyyTpzYBNdZxcjuVZSWkOeW4vY998yb-jSBHrPsClLRt-LVW4/s1600/6+Panorama+7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="139" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6mGHpicflKB_6ia_WqVp167D9RZSFjwyhilX3k0r_5HsCTYrzTknCIk_iupawRJtGzMv0xyUzZiv7MMCSg7AUBZKYeztyyTpzYBNdZxcjuVZSWkOeW4vY998yb-jSBHrPsClLRt-LVW4/s640/6+Panorama+7.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Jerrod's panorama of me photographing Walloon Lake</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Clarence and Grace
Hemingway—Ernie's parents—first visited this area in August, 1898. They were
interested in buying land, in order to build their own cottage. They brought
their seven-month-old daughter Marcelline with them. The family stayed in a
cabin at Wildwood Harbour on the southern shore of Bear Lake—directly across
the lake from the spot where they would eventually settle. It took them two
weeks to find a property that satisfied them. Eventually they bought 4 lots (an
acre) on the north shore from Henry Bacon, who owned a farmstead nearby. The
property had a 200-foot lake frontage.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Clarence Hemingway, who
worked as a doctor in Oak Park on the outskirts of Chicago commissioned the building
of a cottage, based on Grace's own design. The next year, the family returned
to monitor the progress that had been made. There were two children now; Ernest
had been born on July 21st., 1899. They stayed a mile away from their property
at the Echo Beach Hotel. Ernest was just six weeks old on this first of 22
summers at Walloon Lake (between 1899 and 1921, he only missed visiting Walloon
Lake in 1918, when he was serving with the Red Cross in Italy).</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK_nwz9_bAIb3vw1gntGslHfGx7InJiMmpJiPnOhV2YJAMY-pyNbJ045btPXy88mMLEaEyAKEuWvgWhx5fTxiMgBVLMs6hZIximu8X2PKHmJEKxbpEt4B-xMjFNsn0F1um2U_uKsSncm0/s1600/6a+8661681_orig.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="376" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK_nwz9_bAIb3vw1gntGslHfGx7InJiMmpJiPnOhV2YJAMY-pyNbJ045btPXy88mMLEaEyAKEuWvgWhx5fTxiMgBVLMs6hZIximu8X2PKHmJEKxbpEt4B-xMjFNsn0F1um2U_uKsSncm0/s640/6a+8661681_orig.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The Hemingways stayed here in 1900</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe4pVsSYp0h4oCyFVAbHFGmxLn_5MoqepDlW1Jq_Skbm5QO64k5q7DK4JxSZHsLUE1HfcJoIvJR6WY12PkZT8U9J7sk___ZFiYQz0DuZ9CKp-iLqFsucjcccZFzJ6kMtPvRq0i6SLwBwo/s1600/7+Grace+and+Hem+at+Windemere.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="540" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe4pVsSYp0h4oCyFVAbHFGmxLn_5MoqepDlW1Jq_Skbm5QO64k5q7DK4JxSZHsLUE1HfcJoIvJR6WY12PkZT8U9J7sk___ZFiYQz0DuZ9CKp-iLqFsucjcccZFzJ6kMtPvRq0i6SLwBwo/s640/7+Grace+and+Hem+at+Windemere.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Grace with son Ernest at the family's new property on Walloon Lake in 1900</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">When the Hemingway family
returned in the summer of 1900, the cottage was ready. It had cost $400 to
build. It measured 20 feet x 40 feet. White pine boards were used for the
exterior and interior walls, and the exterior walls were faced with clapboard that
had been painted white. The living room had a large brick fireplace and two
window seats, which doubled as beds for the children. The kitchen had a
wood-burning stove and an iron-handled pump that drew up fresh water from a
well. There was also a small dining room. At the back of the cottage there were
two small bedrooms. Three years later (1902) a kitchen wing was added. It
included a screened-in dining area. And eventually an annex was attached with
three more bedrooms. Grace dubbed the cottage Windemere—after the town and lake
of Windermere in England's Lake District. But she slightly altered its
spelling.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk88cOH_Ex58ze99n_dRDcbW9kBF2Ks0LP2r3gSeIwaICPfdaXPGiP68B2gN2AP5Inrsxq5R__zyO6lh_x10VwoDeDL52AnFLfLP6mtjv2U0dhgZMDBPAPgvuzlTC_88ifPhP9v4yozq8/s1600/8+Windemere+from+beach.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="524" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk88cOH_Ex58ze99n_dRDcbW9kBF2Ks0LP2r3gSeIwaICPfdaXPGiP68B2gN2AP5Inrsxq5R__zyO6lh_x10VwoDeDL52AnFLfLP6mtjv2U0dhgZMDBPAPgvuzlTC_88ifPhP9v4yozq8/s640/8+Windemere+from+beach.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Looking up at Windemere Cottage from the beach</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6K5q1H9n9K9azglWtn1gD2yNCyN1m_B1HHFXkmFWdeYjE6goJWuk8EFRQq4grWIbITRbRe29L-6zmmMWvmdgFkF_YUi632RTs49BmwKrAfRg3e6F3Wu9wrgdcuJBwfjmePVu3Mi6ae3g/s1600/9+Windemere+2+from+above.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="398" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6K5q1H9n9K9azglWtn1gD2yNCyN1m_B1HHFXkmFWdeYjE6goJWuk8EFRQq4grWIbITRbRe29L-6zmmMWvmdgFkF_YUi632RTs49BmwKrAfRg3e6F3Wu9wrgdcuJBwfjmePVu3Mi6ae3g/s640/9+Windemere+2+from+above.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Looking south on Windemere Cottage from the property line</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">There was no electricity at
the cottage—at night they used oil lamps. They built an outhouse in a grove of
pine trees at the back of the property. Lake water was used to bathe in and
wash their clothes. The original cottage had a porch on the front side. It
faced south-west. They had chosen their location on the shoreline well; they
were in a small bay, and their place was protected nicely from the north wind
by a promontory that jutted into the lake. It became known as Murphy's
Point—the children would camp out on the Point in their teenage years. From the
porch they could look south into the distance at the rolling green hills rising
over the southern shore of the lake. And beyond the beach right in front of
them lay the beautiful blue waters of a pristine lake.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM-pLoWsK2gz-t5QetWh3NFvxTN-0l5R7k95qfy2I14DrV1lMA7xW_cI-mtUzoTixwAxCheRZGUeyFHon4y245HGxUFXdi6pGJIrQLa7CNxSq32OQHkoMvlRAM3_YKcoP3cXKFQlA_gUU/s1600/10+Hem+family+at+Windemere.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="564" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM-pLoWsK2gz-t5QetWh3NFvxTN-0l5R7k95qfy2I14DrV1lMA7xW_cI-mtUzoTixwAxCheRZGUeyFHon4y245HGxUFXdi6pGJIrQLa7CNxSq32OQHkoMvlRAM3_YKcoP3cXKFQlA_gUU/s640/10+Hem+family+at+Windemere.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Grace and Clarence with their first two children: Marcelline (left) and Ernest</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The Bacon farmstead lay
behind the property line at the back of their place. Close ties developed
between the two families. The Bacon farm provided a lot of the fresh produce
the Hemingways needed throughout the summer (such as daily milk and cream); and
Clarence—Dr. Hemingway—provided ad hoc<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> </i>medical care and advice during his summer
vacations. In addition to the food from the farm, the Hemingways would
regularly get provisions from stores in the village of Walloon Lake. They
hardly ever needed to make a long trip up to Petoskey. The Bacons are the
models for the Garner family in a couple of Ernie's early short stories:
"Ten Indians" and "Fathers and Sons".</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Land north of Windemere: now a nature preserve, it used to be the Bacon farmstead</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The cottagers on Walloon
Lake were serviced by a couple of lake steamers. After the Hemingways arrived
at Walloon Lake village by train from Petoskey, they would transfer everything
to The Tourist—a large, 82 ft. long, wood-burning steamer brought to the lake
in 1893 by the Grand Rapids and Indiana Railway, specifically to drum up
tourist business for their trains out of Harbor Springs and Petoskey. Summer
holiday-makers were then delivered to various small docks
("landings") around the lake. The Hemingways used Bacon Landing. In
those days, of course, there were no easy methods of communicating; so if
cottagers wanted the steamer to stop at their landing, and take them into the
village, they simply flew a white flag from a flagpole on the shoreline of
their property.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The "Tourist" lake steamer which serviced Walloon Lake</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The Tourist lake steamer at Walloon Lake village</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">It was in the woods around
Windemere Cottage that Ernest Hemingway was introduced to fishing and hunting
by his father, an avid outdoorsman. Clarence taught his children how to catch
wild animals and how to cook them over an open fire. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Ernest's first hunting gun—an air rifle</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">On the beach at Windemere Cottage in 1901 (Ernie in Grace's arms)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Clarence first took Ernie
fishing for bass and trout on Walloon Lake, when he was three years old. He was
hooked. Later, he turned his attention to trout fishing over in Horton Creek,
which flowed south into Lake Charlevoix, just west of the little hamlet of
Horton Bay. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Not surprisingly, the
Hemingways spent a lot of time on the beach and in the water in front of their
cottage. The lake provided some practical means of transport and communication.
It was also used for washing and cleaning. But it appealed primarily for the
recreational opportunities it provided. The family went swimming all the time.
Clarence and Ernest were keen on fishing—mostly for bass and trout. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And the family began to acquire boats. The
first vessel was a simple canoe. Then came a long rowboat dubbed <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Marcelline of Windemere</i>. When the family
acquired Longfield Farm, they realized that another rowboat would be required
for the regular 1.5 km trips directly across the lake from Windemere. They
bought a rowboat almost identical to the first; this one was named after the
second daughter—<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Ursula of Windemere</i>.
Much later, in 1929, they acquired an 18 ft. launch (called <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Sunny</i>, after daughter #3) powered by an
inboard Gray Marine motor. They had a boathouse built to house the growing
fleet. And they began to install a portable dock at the beginning of each
summer (removing it each fall because of the ice that covered the lake for most
of the winter).</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Ernest (second from left) in <i>Ursula of Windemere</i></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Hemingway standing tall in the prow of a rowboat on Walloon Lake</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Ernest Hemingway wrote a
number of short stories set in and around Windemere Cottage. The most important
are "Indian Camp" (the first-published Nick Adams story, which
introduced the key Hemingway themes of physical pain, death and suicide),
"The Doctor and the Doctor's Wife" (a revealing portrait of his
parents), "Ten Indians" and "The Indians Moved Away" (which
reveal both sympathetic and racist attitudes toward the local Ojibway Indians),
and "Wedding Day" (about Ernest and Hadley's marriage in Horton Bay
and their honeymoon at Windemere Cottage).</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Longfield had been denuded of trees by lumber companies in the late nineteenth-century</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In 1905 the Hemingways used
part of the inheritance that Grace had received from her father in order to buy
a 40-acre farm on the south shore of Walloon lake, just west of Wildwood
Harbour. They called it Longfield Farm. They used the farm as a source of food
and a place that would offer the health-benefits of regular physical labour.
The Frank Washburn family was hired to serve as tenant farmers: Clarence got
one-third of the crops, in return for paying the upkeep on the farm. The
Hemingways improved the land by planting many trees, growing hay and
vegetables. Their children were recruited to sell surplus vegetables to
neighbouring cottage owners and nearby resorts. In 1917 an additional 20 acres
were bought. A local farmer, Warren Sumner, was hired to take over from Frank
Washburn. One of the useful things Sumner would do was to cut large chunks of
ice from the lake during the winters and store them in an ice-house built at
Longfield. The ice would then be transferred by boat in the summer to an
icehouse at Windemere Cottage. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Warren Sumner and Ernest (right) removing rocks from Longfield Farm (ca. 1917)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In 1919, Ernest's mother
decided to build a small cottage for herself at Longfield Farm. She wanted to
set it up as quiet refuge away from the noise and clutter and worry of dealing
with her six children for the entire summer—especially after her husband began
to spend less and less time at Windemere in the summers. It had been an
ambition of hers for many years. Clarence was opposed to the idea. But Grace
went ahead anyway. She spent about $2,500 having the cottage built on a high
ridge at Longfield that she and Clarence called Red Top Mountain. She dubbed it
Grace Cottage. Soon a piano was installed. Grace used the place as a music room
and art studio. The money spent building Grace Cottage became a bone of
contention between Ernest and his mother. He felt that the money should have
been used to fund his younger siblings college education. The resentment he
felt for Grace about this issue was added to the growing estrangement—caused,
he felt, by her domineering and censorious attitude to the family. Ernest
believed that Grace hen-pecked her husband. He never forgave his mother for
that—especially after Clarence committed suicide in 1928.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkc4NCzx4PDAIBZ-k0SHJFvk1Xd6AYDrQXEpkn-G18YsBHFFdlXhC9Jfr3LFu1Bt_W_3QYPN-TJoblc9-JacSoTVReIHaEL_CS23_pcHEb99xVfJWFclZq1KWW9RK40Xfl4lt6foVOIJQ/s1600/20+Grace+Cottage+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkc4NCzx4PDAIBZ-k0SHJFvk1Xd6AYDrQXEpkn-G18YsBHFFdlXhC9Jfr3LFu1Bt_W_3QYPN-TJoblc9-JacSoTVReIHaEL_CS23_pcHEb99xVfJWFclZq1KWW9RK40Xfl4lt6foVOIJQ/s640/20+Grace+Cottage+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Grace Cottage on Longfield Farm</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> When he became a teenager,
Ernest was expected to take on more and more work each summer at
Longfield—especially after Clarence began to spend more time at his medical
practice in Oak Park during the summers. In the summer of 1914, Ernie pitched a
tent at Longfield Farm and spent much time there with his high-school friend
Evan Sampson. They gathered hay and sold vegetables around the lake. By the end
of the summer they had harvested 50 bushels of potatoes.</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj90jp_5au3Z79UiG16JOi3I1eEIo0K34A5D3J4hrY3Rrch4SdGM_Z6gAZIVT-ijfB-VhIRFwVJYOVRrGHF2Ojq13IgWd2RjhfDSpn0-pcXmMvCKCBXMZoacmxXzukHqX2gJDaQEwQklxA/s1600/21+1915+Hem+family+at+Windemere.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="554" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj90jp_5au3Z79UiG16JOi3I1eEIo0K34A5D3J4hrY3Rrch4SdGM_Z6gAZIVT-ijfB-VhIRFwVJYOVRrGHF2Ojq13IgWd2RjhfDSpn0-pcXmMvCKCBXMZoacmxXzukHqX2gJDaQEwQklxA/s640/21+1915+Hem+family+at+Windemere.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">(l-r) Clarence, Carol, Marcelline, Madeleine, Grace, Ernest, Leicester (baby) and Ursula</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Hemingway's father died in
1928. After his mother followed in 1951, Ernest inherited Windemere Cottage.
But he never went back there after his last summer spent in Upper Michigan in
1921. With Ernie's death in 1961, his fourth wife Mary Welsh Hemingway
fulfilled Ernie's stated wish and signed over the cottage to his sister
Madelaine ("Sunny"). She used the place as a summer home until her
death in 1995. It was then bequeathed to her son Ernie Mainland, Ernest
Hemingway's nephew. In a long chat with a local, who was sunning himself in a
deckchair on a dock at Horton bay, I discovered that Ernie almost never visits
the cottage anymore. It's future seems to be up in the air. Will it stay in the
family? Or will it eventually become a museum/shrine that Hemingway fans will
be able to wander around?</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwWYqaHxKK8B9rBGu5yfYB_aWKv_Adht0Kl4b2wOAAm3MHNBPVfozhiqS6yHDrsUe6koRvHzVFi1DkKwrSyiLBntf7GnvBqmFSMMcdhB5CWc1hiOhSKgr5357hLDtq5-GwrMX2cChEfuw/s1600/22+_DSC1345.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="420" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwWYqaHxKK8B9rBGu5yfYB_aWKv_Adht0Kl4b2wOAAm3MHNBPVfozhiqS6yHDrsUe6koRvHzVFi1DkKwrSyiLBntf7GnvBqmFSMMcdhB5CWc1hiOhSKgr5357hLDtq5-GwrMX2cChEfuw/s640/22+_DSC1345.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Jerrod and I at Resort Township Park</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">After a short stay at the
Resort Township Park, Jerrod and I walked west along Lake Grove Road, in order
to find Windemere Cott<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">age</i>. We knew
roughly what it looked like—the key feature was the uneven roofline, caused by
the addition of the kitchen-wing to the original 20 ft. x 40 ft. structure. In
the 1910s there was no road or track behind the cottage. Access to the property
was gained from the lake. There was just a split-rail fence marking the
northern boundary, separating their lot from the Bacon farmstead. The Bacon
land is now part of the Covert Nature Reserve, supervised by the Walloon
Lake<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Conservancy. There are some hiking
trails set up through this land. Now there is a paved road providing automobile
access to cottages and homes. Many of these homes cannot possibly be called
"cottages"—they are huge, obviously very expensive, residences. If
they are only seasonal homes, it boggles the mind how much money has been spent
on them. </span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGlmpvzU-cRkdyUEgOWjBw3eCa6iyJHJ3sqn1oCxCv9IBnnLJb5B53jRPIt2QAL1ZxPcOdLZfM4zpxNwO8PI3xeHzt5TIxgWHTc-yXLuyvsLRBe-P11ssx8TTiUVTIQxwMeq3cNGwPXKo/s1600/23+_DSC1352.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGlmpvzU-cRkdyUEgOWjBw3eCa6iyJHJ3sqn1oCxCv9IBnnLJb5B53jRPIt2QAL1ZxPcOdLZfM4zpxNwO8PI3xeHzt5TIxgWHTc-yXLuyvsLRBe-P11ssx8TTiUVTIQxwMeq3cNGwPXKo/s640/23+_DSC1352.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Windemere Cottage is on Lake Grove Road</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7yM5ysDz5RrTzqDj66xIb2udu0RjiOGpMSN8t71Fobx7F7mVJ9RW7QujOvEHzqhsknvi7kvhQreOROc6tuiM5Vf3eEj69cgzRoTNByvh8h6DRT59xE2BMDAxukhDhAMElv-KCQ_GaZ-Y/s1600/24++_DSC1367.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7yM5ysDz5RrTzqDj66xIb2udu0RjiOGpMSN8t71Fobx7F7mVJ9RW7QujOvEHzqhsknvi7kvhQreOROc6tuiM5Vf3eEj69cgzRoTNByvh8h6DRT59xE2BMDAxukhDhAMElv-KCQ_GaZ-Y/s640/24++_DSC1367.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Windemere Cottage from the road</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">We knew from photographic
research that Windemere Cottage was a rather humble abode. We stopped at one
place that looked a likely contender, until we examined the even roofline. We
moved on. We finally found our prize. Well, we did walk on a fair bit further,
just to ensure that we were absolutely correct. It would be embarrassing in
retrospect, to identify and photograph the wrong cottage! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRZp8Qy7XfvT5XXcxBvcD_HNrz2-3bhsgxp1fO-B37S71fl68YEZlCQ-JgrwKfSqqMKh-Ci7etesgzelAEZypHnIMdyw4FVCTLJnsetJWhhbz8GQbsioLS99kQJmp3YJ1BaviWUo7pZu4/s1600/25+_DSC1370.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRZp8Qy7XfvT5XXcxBvcD_HNrz2-3bhsgxp1fO-B37S71fl68YEZlCQ-JgrwKfSqqMKh-Ci7etesgzelAEZypHnIMdyw4FVCTLJnsetJWhhbz8GQbsioLS99kQJmp3YJ1BaviWUo7pZu4/s640/25+_DSC1370.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">This back of Windemere Cottage shows the uneven roof line caused <span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">by</span> the added kitchen wing</span></td></tr>
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</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAXcEJT5B1-zKrccC3wEeiWOFFxv59bzNbjai7YS2d59APWyEbZwpvngUKWGaT6mU9RMVYlDI_w5-P_OaZJgsdxVRFvIhVBQP8pfp7J2gZx_UukhjoR_IsapziBRtobFC6RFFtWlPn5A8/s1600/26+_DSC1369.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAXcEJT5B1-zKrccC3wEeiWOFFxv59bzNbjai7YS2d59APWyEbZwpvngUKWGaT6mU9RMVYlDI_w5-P_OaZJgsdxVRFvIhVBQP8pfp7J2gZx_UukhjoR_IsapziBRtobFC6RFFtWlPn5A8/s640/26+_DSC1369.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Windemere Cottage on Walloon Lake</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I set up my tripod and we
did a few videos. Then I took a lot of photographs of the cottage and the lot
and, using the tripod again, several "selfies" of Jerrod and me
standing in front of "mecca".</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipxKzCIBMq5sdXGUr6HLC01c0slGFPk3l0pAEKBqPXZqWBV096Ob5MrSSchvtLH9xieA65x8R7der7PlUYHtRop1B72aAZAMiDuIyHpC7b5NOhWxjhKSm-xTWsYVp55BO4g4XTe5kEoe4/s1600/27+_DSC1379.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipxKzCIBMq5sdXGUr6HLC01c0slGFPk3l0pAEKBqPXZqWBV096Ob5MrSSchvtLH9xieA65x8R7der7PlUYHtRop1B72aAZAMiDuIyHpC7b5NOhWxjhKSm-xTWsYVp55BO4g4XTe5kEoe4/s640/27+_DSC1379.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Here we are, Jerrod and I, at Windemere Cottage</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">When we got back to the
parked car on Resort Pike Road, we looked north and noticed a pair of
white-tailed deer on the road. They had come out from the nature reserve. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuUEnqFEOdNfZBac9V1y1FO5eicXwBx8A9iasm88RB8UKMQIMPD5oYSaaLYXhdfzzQfPq4ufyqQ0qrZ7WeZs4NGPNdhISdSv8RQilt4LaXkFSZvEHQ9qEC0f5xpeNTq4ottYA3Y7eOr5o/s1600/28+_DSC1383.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuUEnqFEOdNfZBac9V1y1FO5eicXwBx8A9iasm88RB8UKMQIMPD5oYSaaLYXhdfzzQfPq4ufyqQ0qrZ7WeZs4NGPNdhISdSv8RQilt4LaXkFSZvEHQ9qEC0f5xpeNTq4ottYA3Y7eOr5o/s640/28+_DSC1383.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">White-tailed deer at the corner of Resort Pike Road and Indian Garden Road</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">If you go back up that road
and turn right roughly where the deer were standing, you are on Indian Garden
Road. In the area east of Resort Pike Road and north of Indian Garden Road
there used to be, in Hemingway's time, an Ojibway Indian settlement centred on
the creek that flows south into Walloon Lake. The Indians who live there were
sawyers and birch-bark strippers. Once the first-growth lumber in the region
was exhausted by clear-cutting, the Indians' livelihood was eliminated, and
their settlement would soon disappear. Hemingway got to know some of the
Indians living here—especially Billy Tabshaw, Dick Boulton, and Dick's daughter
Prudence—and they are featured in several of Hemingway's early short stories:
"Indian Camp", "Ten Indians", "The Doctor and the
Doctor's Wife", "The Indians Moved Away", and "Fathers and
Sons".</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpWTqUslMSGZXkWz0JKYSFCAqFQ4VHDLbGOA5DHGdoutqw6UT596q16KdsvCDInnnNfqJlLkwq4poo-aT4_1zz9FEtqlew29gKWzUdv9Z1iw7vHIeBdbTseD3AH_9Yc10tb6NjLFb37v4/s1600/29+1916+Hem+arriving+at+Walloon+Lake.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpWTqUslMSGZXkWz0JKYSFCAqFQ4VHDLbGOA5DHGdoutqw6UT596q16KdsvCDInnnNfqJlLkwq4poo-aT4_1zz9FEtqlew29gKWzUdv9Z1iw7vHIeBdbTseD3AH_9Yc10tb6NjLFb37v4/s640/29+1916+Hem+arriving+at+Walloon+Lake.jpg" width="388" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Ernest arriving at Windemere in 1916</span></td></tr>
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<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 20.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Horton
Bay</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 20.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span></div>
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</div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 20.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoktoIvR9owHDG5MpDeUGVJ5BtF2tuE1078QKhx_5vtP-xMk5-DZA1xi0NORe14boxBub7yl3DmSKlyrmlK_rE7uV0H2AOLYvS6nG-RHD2iNeEL0UNJFE62MKEXziMkimxuVmzz-HesFc/s1600/1+Google+Maps+-+Mozilla+Firefox+8272016+52042+PM.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="358" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoktoIvR9owHDG5MpDeUGVJ5BtF2tuE1078QKhx_5vtP-xMk5-DZA1xi0NORe14boxBub7yl3DmSKlyrmlK_rE7uV0H2AOLYvS6nG-RHD2iNeEL0UNJFE62MKEXziMkimxuVmzz-HesFc/s640/1+Google+Maps+-+Mozilla+Firefox+8272016+52042+PM.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Map of Walloon Lake and Lake Charlevoix with Hemingway sites labelled</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0j6J27wA6pLv5jbwHW27JK5Ne5qodwK3s7zBoZZJEkvdRx9ukbqFYl7nPwAAihLhSYke_qYNpB-QnOlWp2Ijc0425u0YJ7qNPqpZ2p2epz7dxiLabyU3krYigOQtD62yV3nS8Z0eL1lo/s1600/2+Horton+Bay+map.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0j6J27wA6pLv5jbwHW27JK5Ne5qodwK3s7zBoZZJEkvdRx9ukbqFYl7nPwAAihLhSYke_qYNpB-QnOlWp2Ijc0425u0YJ7qNPqpZ2p2epz7dxiLabyU3krYigOQtD62yV3nS8Z0eL1lo/s640/2+Horton+Bay+map.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Horton Bay village</span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmX1yitc3ADvhe1ycKGB3xY2y099JxcTQ5Ss8Jl1DkdtfIOvDROCcjcrFINMU43GrLrjVyeLk0RXzr2vBRDk_KYaUEcqQDhiVPQyt-lgnWIHeZvd0fayXDqnwfNmw4Gv2MSn6_uQVcZNg/s1600/3+0431513531_11264167_8col+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmX1yitc3ADvhe1ycKGB3xY2y099JxcTQ5Ss8Jl1DkdtfIOvDROCcjcrFINMU43GrLrjVyeLk0RXzr2vBRDk_KYaUEcqQDhiVPQyt-lgnWIHeZvd0fayXDqnwfNmw4Gv2MSn6_uQVcZNg/s640/3+0431513531_11264167_8col+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Aerial view of Horton Bay</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Ernest Hemingway's summers
in Upper Michigan were centred on two places: in his early years, he spent most
of his time in and around the family's cottage on Walloon Lake; but as he grew
into his teenage years, he spent more and more time in Horton Bay, on nearby
Lake Charlevoix. He became something of a fixture in the home of Liz and Jim
Dilworth. And in his late-teens, he would hang out with other youngsters his
age, who were spending their vacation in the village. To get to Horton Bay,
Hemingway would row across Walloon Lake and then walk about three miles.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXCGJikWjOkQWFCco7a7dblaSyQ8EQg6Jv1H0_YsB99I2a1qDG4SE3g_onUeHzuxfW6Npz94p2L_Fl6epEbvLEI5qzt4ToXEnWKeBkaxzO5igjSuGv4fw6n1TsBg8KdiBB5BSmwArsCP0/s1600/4+Hems+and+Dilworths+at+Windemere.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="586" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXCGJikWjOkQWFCco7a7dblaSyQ8EQg6Jv1H0_YsB99I2a1qDG4SE3g_onUeHzuxfW6Npz94p2L_Fl6epEbvLEI5qzt4ToXEnWKeBkaxzO5igjSuGv4fw6n1TsBg8KdiBB5BSmwArsCP0/s640/4+Hems+and+Dilworths+at+Windemere.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The Dilworths of Horton Bay with the Hemingways at Windemere Cottage</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">There were two families in
Upper Michigan that the Hemingways were closest to: the Bacon family, who had
sold them their lot on Walloon Lake, and the Dilworths in Horton Bay. Liz and
Jim Dilworth ran a holiday resort there. Jim also had a blacksmith shop
opposite the township's school on the Boyne City Road. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhox3k0VWivf3TAoRuTj2-UzuNeYz_PtTh2r6fKuxkSJSvGQ7Kjb9zQF8XuBGd3CTdPZVfMgCS2NWwJ0MxDn0HzTHZgdh4BRIQLwJU-YQ-IPjwWm8Wv4SpyDMjaQBFEkl9yrMnA2pDbuPA/s1600/5+Dilworth+Blacksmith.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="328" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhox3k0VWivf3TAoRuTj2-UzuNeYz_PtTh2r6fKuxkSJSvGQ7Kjb9zQF8XuBGd3CTdPZVfMgCS2NWwJ0MxDn0HzTHZgdh4BRIQLwJU-YQ-IPjwWm8Wv4SpyDMjaQBFEkl9yrMnA2pDbuPA/s640/5+Dilworth+Blacksmith.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Jim Dilworth's blacksmith shop on Boyne City Road just east of Horton Bay hamlet</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>heart of the Dilworth holiday resort was
their home at Pinehurst Cottage. Liz ran an inn at Pinehurst, which offered
meals and accommodation to summer tourists. It was known particularly for the
chicken-dinners Liz specialized in. The Dilworths also owned
"Shangri-La", the house next door; it served as a rooming house.
Ernest often stayed at Pinehurst, when he was visiting his friends in Horton
Bay. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLXYkzZZ9YYMFf2ChmgZs7cgXACG9HohIUHtYyTAOUz9W2zq5Eb8j4K9kVJrzuSn6ep_qd9SXvo4SaN2P_NJY7FllNT0msMxB5y_sdy28lgpBu_uHJ-tSSqhupdwovWWOvbYf_HAFJ3DA/s1600/6+Pinehurst+Cottage+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="364" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLXYkzZZ9YYMFf2ChmgZs7cgXACG9HohIUHtYyTAOUz9W2zq5Eb8j4K9kVJrzuSn6ep_qd9SXvo4SaN2P_NJY7FllNT0msMxB5y_sdy28lgpBu_uHJ-tSSqhupdwovWWOvbYf_HAFJ3DA/s640/6+Pinehurst+Cottage+4.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Pinehurst Cottage in foreground; the Point visible on the other side of the Bay</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The two houses are still
there: to find them, turn south on Lake Street just east of the General Store
on the Boyne City Road. The former-Dilworth establishments are the first two
buildings on the left-side of the road as you walk down towards the Bay.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyH2EbLa8xpUrNOfKxN4Fhgdm4ilZMOYvMeglKs6SUi7TEdc3ivYuAQgowynHrbXNQ0-UwFLja-_ATKQgZl-y0GBBNed1BFDd6jW1XSKVTvCbliU4Ey4wAAIg5Xg5P76mwDUaGv9o-mfY/s1600/7+_DSC1420.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyH2EbLa8xpUrNOfKxN4Fhgdm4ilZMOYvMeglKs6SUi7TEdc3ivYuAQgowynHrbXNQ0-UwFLja-_ATKQgZl-y0GBBNed1BFDd6jW1XSKVTvCbliU4Ey4wAAIg5Xg5P76mwDUaGv9o-mfY/s640/7+_DSC1420.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Looking south on Lake Street towards the Bay</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Pinehurst Cottage (the rebuilt blacksmith shop just visible back-left)</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgOgXn8L_oUE07O9DgQUR_gJ99CPYMaUFyUCNsODnR7v4cGmHpG_m4kKe4Kpu-k2BNBmJ1oiHccbGeZurJFhzUAnEEm9d11xWDvGPueEG5nCCfo9WjvunCzhqdF2BU4WEyE73fshwL4SA/s1600/9+_DSC1446.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgOgXn8L_oUE07O9DgQUR_gJ99CPYMaUFyUCNsODnR7v4cGmHpG_m4kKe4Kpu-k2BNBmJ1oiHccbGeZurJFhzUAnEEm9d11xWDvGPueEG5nCCfo9WjvunCzhqdF2BU4WEyE73fshwL4SA/s640/9+_DSC1446.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Shangri-La Cottage—next door to Pinehurst and also owned by the Dilworths</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">At the southern end of Lake
Street there is public access to the Bay—a sandy beach and a boat launch, where
you can put vessels into Lake Charlevoix. Horton Bay is sheltered nicely by Ten
Mile Point. Ernest set a couple of significant early short stories here:
"Up In Michigan" and "The End of Something".</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPjk8MM4x2ebLRapNxW2C8qy1DBRq43_g25KDswf8Cf3Fj6W8RAgF5lsmR1uDXz-en4lsZQuHiDNNbvWsX8L8xO1_z6vSXFOtN_Bbh3KAZNvbHAptHSMcLgHc_qbyM-aOCpf2uz1xgybA/s1600/10+img067.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="406" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPjk8MM4x2ebLRapNxW2C8qy1DBRq43_g25KDswf8Cf3Fj6W8RAgF5lsmR1uDXz-en4lsZQuHiDNNbvWsX8L8xO1_z6vSXFOtN_Bbh3KAZNvbHAptHSMcLgHc_qbyM-aOCpf2uz1xgybA/s640/10+img067.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Horton Bay beach in foreground and the Point behind</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX-aimnXvy7q7eIVtAWFehYaIx9ohyJ1qsWOubVHeKkW_MMQnqMewxBD_4MLFxATci5qrWhX1I3GMwWLxPS6gJKKsZbfAZhOiS12AC6JGQ5MUE_mKcE3sb59WwoEMwvwLQy7hy2A9SzL8/s1600/11+_DSC1431.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX-aimnXvy7q7eIVtAWFehYaIx9ohyJ1qsWOubVHeKkW_MMQnqMewxBD_4MLFxATci5qrWhX1I3GMwWLxPS6gJKKsZbfAZhOiS12AC6JGQ5MUE_mKcE3sb59WwoEMwvwLQy7hy2A9SzL8/s640/11+_DSC1431.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Horton Bay beach</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Ernest showing his catch on the wharf at Horton Bay (1919)</span></span></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">If you follow the beach west
from here, you would eventually come to the mouth of Horton Creek. But a better
vantage point can be found from a small dirt parking lot on the east side of
the creek, just north of the Boyne City Road. It's in the Rufus Teesdale Nature
Preserve. You walk from the lot on a short path through some open, scrubby
ground into cedar and birch trees. And there you are, beside the Creek. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Jerrod on the bank of Horton Creek</span></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The clean water of Horton Creek</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">It's a beautiful, unspoiled
spot. The young Hemingway was introduced to it as a three-year-old. In 1903
(when he was just four) he began fishing there with the 11-year-old Wesley
Dilworth, who was his best friend at the time. And there is a famous photograph
of the six-year-old Hemingway fishing here in 1905 with a bamboo rod, wearing a
straw hat. Horton Creek remained his favourite place to fish trout for many
years.. The clear water flows briskly to the Bay. I noticed some watercress
growing close to the bank—a sure sign of the water's cleanliness. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6klKr3LdWFy3mjBbMbzR8nU4QqEVgz3EME5ALD4p_KQgx3-sEVGGFUj1K5vRKY6lZymtUFhnKh7mtnVO0LIkx4dZhfoa33gYcY9WBWv_nHRhOQNwrx1H-l_Gdz46PqLbVAokZ49mZTJg/s1600/15+Hem+at+Horton+Creek+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="538" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6klKr3LdWFy3mjBbMbzR8nU4QqEVgz3EME5ALD4p_KQgx3-sEVGGFUj1K5vRKY6lZymtUFhnKh7mtnVO0LIkx4dZhfoa33gYcY9WBWv_nHRhOQNwrx1H-l_Gdz46PqLbVAokZ49mZTJg/s640/15+Hem+at+Horton+Creek+1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Ernest fishing on Horton Creek in 1905 (aged 6)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Hemingway mentions Horton
Creek in "The End of Something", "The Indians Moved Away",
and "On Writing". It's probably the model, too, for the creek
mentioned in "The Last Good Country" and "Summer People".
Even late in his career, he reminisces about fishing it in <u>True At First
Light</u> (written primarily in 1954-1956).</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJmZyrYSl60_f40evfRsSbzqlbmLTWtLAuecerSaMHsW1zLHkx6XGIS4gbZCz77kL1CfdX5kT9K1dJCGg_9-W39eP4wI2sn1DLq2LB_av8oCnvL9dAIQEKpzgT2oBYuvc7W37fwnFZ-Yg/s1600/16++_DSC1425.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJmZyrYSl60_f40evfRsSbzqlbmLTWtLAuecerSaMHsW1zLHkx6XGIS4gbZCz77kL1CfdX5kT9K1dJCGg_9-W39eP4wI2sn1DLq2LB_av8oCnvL9dAIQEKpzgT2oBYuvc7W37fwnFZ-Yg/s640/16++_DSC1425.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Shangri-La (right) and Pinehurst Cottage (left)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigm7UXCEoCowjC2r4nHTmfCChMHx8ns_YhHNHpXij_qB5uHdVyGSiTKQSZL-2dK6J9fsRwZ0tWYZD3m6pS-cMS1WeTPkBEvDpBjB4PvUYYzm3e-rPvVod_K96-ZuqLcMG0xhPsGv9ZmQk/s1600/17++_DSC1440.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigm7UXCEoCowjC2r4nHTmfCChMHx8ns_YhHNHpXij_qB5uHdVyGSiTKQSZL-2dK6J9fsRwZ0tWYZD3m6pS-cMS1WeTPkBEvDpBjB4PvUYYzm3e-rPvVod_K96-ZuqLcMG0xhPsGv9ZmQk/s640/17++_DSC1440.JPG" width="422" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The spring on Lake Street</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">As I was walking down Lake Street to the Bay, I was looking carefully along both sides of the road for a
small spring of water. It was mentioned by Hemingway in his short story
"Summer People", and I had the spring down on my list of things to
see here in Horton Bay. He mentions dipping an arm into the water—as a way of
beating the heat of a hot summer night. Ironically, then, it was not until we
were trudging back up the road from the beach, and beginning to really feel the
mid-day heat, that we noticed the spring in the ditch on the east side of the
road—identified by a small, wooden, hand-made sign beside it. It invited
passers-by to stick their hand into the spring and say "Yiaow!"
Jerrod stuck his arm into the small, but rather deep, pool of water and
dutifully yelled "Yiaow!" Then he noticed a couple of large frogs
(toads?) sitting motionless next to the spring. I crouched down to examine them
and then stuck my hand into the spring. Yes, the water was very cold. I
suddenly caught a whiff of mint; there was quite a large and healthy-looking
mint plant growing next to the water. I plucked a large leaf from it, rubbed it
between my thumb and forefinger and held it up to my nose. I passed it over to
Jerrod: "Smell," I said. "Mint," he replied. We had only
been at the spot for a few minutes, but it seemed a memorable interlude. As we
were about to leave, I impulsively picked a couple of sprigs from the plant. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuf1sVsCUrNvT7KtQkWbj5Nk_sU5E850RZE10MO6ogCPGfHRSCGM1bI9pEKaUpVdmoPPBLubCBIxu7XbGYAjjyTVnXJKOHpjC5dsbGRmVYf0h9fEZ5JXFYrHeDRu_xFJ1oU3TRYpZWFoY/s1600/18+_DSC1436.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuf1sVsCUrNvT7KtQkWbj5Nk_sU5E850RZE10MO6ogCPGfHRSCGM1bI9pEKaUpVdmoPPBLubCBIxu7XbGYAjjyTVnXJKOHpjC5dsbGRmVYf0h9fEZ5JXFYrHeDRu_xFJ1oU3TRYpZWFoY/s640/18+_DSC1436.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The impressive mint plant at the spring</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">When we got back to our
motel at the end of the day, one of the first things Jerrod did was to open his
copy of <u>The Nick Adams Stories</u> to the story "Summer People",
set in Horton Bay. He read through the first paragraph.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"Oh, man!" he exclaimed;
"He mentions the mint." He read aloud:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"Halfway down the
gravel road from Hortons Bay, the town, to the lake there was a spring. The
water came up in a tile sunk beside the road, lipping over the cracked edge of
the tile and flowing away through the close growing mint into the swamp. In the
dark Nick put his arm down into the spring but could not hold it there because
of the cold. He felt the featherings of the sand spouting up from the spring
cones at the bottom against his fingers. Nick thought, I wish I could put all
of myself in there. I bet that would fix me. He pulled his arm out and sat down
at the edge of the road. It was a hot night."</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"That's neat," he
said.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"Yeah," I replied.
I got up from the couch and went out to the car. From the back seat, I grabbed
the two sprigs of mint and brought them in.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"Here," I said to
Jerrod, "Take one of these. I'm gonna press my piece as a special memento." </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I retrieved my copy of <u>The
Complete Short Stories of Ernest Hemingway</u> from the bedroom. I looked for
"Summer People" in the Table of Contents and opened to page 496. I
placed the sprig of mint between the first two pages of the story, being
careful to spread and flatten out each of the large leaves. I closed the book
and placed it on the coffee table, and then piled several more books to sit on
top of it overnight. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"It'll dry out slowly
in there," I said. "And the pages of <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">'</span>Summer People<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">'</span> will take on
quite a minty aroma!"</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"Cool," Jerrod
responded. I thought, if my wife were here, she would really think I was nuts.</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwmpkZExrvfF53lOGq3IRGJPgPcHI5wDkvb1wrD8VYUzWuNaucClCDH3pvPqnN0Up9uamX7CTwQdRtmsohO6HxAu5P3IRKBagSsSlCXLrMac6bytpIgrSsqOBUag7LqE4oRDqz5TTFmUU/s1600/19+_DSC1448.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwmpkZExrvfF53lOGq3IRGJPgPcHI5wDkvb1wrD8VYUzWuNaucClCDH3pvPqnN0Up9uamX7CTwQdRtmsohO6HxAu5P3IRKBagSsSlCXLrMac6bytpIgrSsqOBUag7LqE4oRDqz5TTFmUU/s640/19+_DSC1448.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">A view of the General Store from Lake Street</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">When we got back to the
car—parked in between The General Store and the Red Fox Inn—we put a couple of
things on the back seat of the vehicle, and then turned our attention to the
Red Fox Inn. It is an old building, built in 1878. It was made a restaurant in
1919, when Hemingway used to come here often during his summer vacations. Now
it was set up as a store specializing in all kinds of Hemingway memorabilia:
new and used books, T-shirts, mugs, baseball caps, etc. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyFy7ZKjyov7Ciq9IOZeOtqoFL-lUjCYuQNx5M-4XE9RBAAmDURAxNeM_BnRgx-Xeu0BTFnwoBazHMSVCy11eiHVEpuF7evMWpKYgec3-IUOqZfgdRiHTrtqj5kJoPrEh38NDNlyAiNts/s1600/20++_DSC1450.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyFy7ZKjyov7Ciq9IOZeOtqoFL-lUjCYuQNx5M-4XE9RBAAmDURAxNeM_BnRgx-Xeu0BTFnwoBazHMSVCy11eiHVEpuF7evMWpKYgec3-IUOqZfgdRiHTrtqj5kJoPrEh38NDNlyAiNts/s640/20++_DSC1450.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The Red Fox Inn on the Boyne City Road (next door to the General Store)</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPo3PQ8m3IwfFGrEcw_8Ru8w3LS2tK91-LFFKyCDeYlM8rtcWkkZdNjEFjc4xTeOn0CCih5Q5zQILTp2nYAc62TByiyugMyL_PgZ30PFsDl-6grxCLfKK4NsMveejrFZopWPHynfjkP0o/s1600/21+Red+Fox+Inn+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="446" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPo3PQ8m3IwfFGrEcw_8Ru8w3LS2tK91-LFFKyCDeYlM8rtcWkkZdNjEFjc4xTeOn0CCih5Q5zQILTp2nYAc62TByiyugMyL_PgZ30PFsDl-6grxCLfKK4NsMveejrFZopWPHynfjkP0o/s640/21+Red+Fox+Inn+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Red Fox Inn</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"It looks closed,"
I said.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"Nooooo!" said
Jerrod.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">We mounted a short flight of
wooden steps and pulled at the handle of the screen door. It did not move.
"Shit."</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Although we had both planned
to spend a bundle on a handful of items each, Jerrod was particularly
disappointed. We gazed in disbelief at a small printed sign on the door. Closed
on Sundays and Mondays, it read.</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmnSJoc_w_k8-3YwA-RKRR865AfG_7bt5cYeSn8tmLD1157_STTjZOd0zRbXmaSkdXvkhCsYPMjRYu-LUIwRjKGXuwQH_ltCVmltBcsnwZDZBuzOnadOxI2f2cGKDNfLC_jW04RfIMQ0I/s1600/22+_DSC1391.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmnSJoc_w_k8-3YwA-RKRR865AfG_7bt5cYeSn8tmLD1157_STTjZOd0zRbXmaSkdXvkhCsYPMjRYu-LUIwRjKGXuwQH_ltCVmltBcsnwZDZBuzOnadOxI2f2cGKDNfLC_jW04RfIMQ0I/s640/22+_DSC1391.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Closed on Sundays and Mondays!</span></td></tr>
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<br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I set up my tripod and we
did a couple of videos and a few photos, cursing repeatedly as the situation hit
home.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"Well," I offered,
looking at the building next door, "let's check out the General
Store."</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The Horton Bay General Store</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The Horton Bay General Store
was established in 1876. It has a distinctive false-front that rises high above
the roof. It's the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">de rigueur</i> photo shown
in any book, article, or web-site page about Horton Bay. In Hemingway's time it
was a combination of general store, cafe, and soda shop. And it served as the
social centre of the community. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">When the current proprietor
took over the place (about 15 years ago), it was store specializing in party
favours. He turned it into a combination antique/curio shop and small diner.
The back wall is filled with photographs and illustrations of Ernest Hemingway.
I discovered from the owner that the store was actually closed, but he said it
was OK for me to look around because he was going to be there for another
half-hour, anyway, finishing up a few tasks. He told me to check out the photo
of Ernest and Hadley sitting together on a bench. "It was taken out
front," he mentioned nonchalantly. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The interior of the Horton Bay General Store</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Ernest and Hadley in St. Louis (1920)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I bought a styrofoam-cup's-worth
of coffee and checked out the photos on the wall. That picture of Ernie and
Hadley was framed. It shows a stream of tobacco smoke pouring from Hemingway's
nostrils. Hadley was particularly impressed by that. I was about to correct the
proprietor's information; I knew this shot was taken during a brief visit
Ernest made to St, Louis (Hadley's home-town) in March, 1921. But I bit my
tongue. I struck up a conversation about—what else?—Hemingway.<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"> </span>His responses were rather perfunctory at first, but he warmed up
considerably, when he realized I was a true aficionado of the Wemedge. He took
me over to a spot on the original long mahogany counter, where customers would
have sat for a coffee or soda back in the early twentieth-century. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"There, look at
that," he said, pointing down at the counter. There was a fully-formed
capital H gouged into the wood. It was about 2 inches square. Beside it was the
beginnings of a capital E, but not completed. "He was probably using his
own pocket-knife on that piece of schoolboy vandalism," he said—"but
got interrupted." Of course, I took a couple of pictures. I don't know, I
thought. I'm a bit dubious about that. But why not; he was the type, I suppose.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I bought a Hemingway T-shirt,
although I wasn't that crazy about it, I confess. But I felt the need to get
something, at least, to recompense the guy for his time and interest. And a
consolation prize for missing out on the Red Fox Inn memorabilia.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRfi1VXm2wdqyeox3ZflZJbdaCic2K2k08BHZlv3yQ6iJ72jhAD-NiY_uTqmkyc6MpfoBk4JhUD6cKjpwnOhrgZWL31ppuhHba57KK-3NFck3zMQ8tH_zdZ-klA3ubY6bwiKLCg0YHhjY/s1600/30++_DSC1458.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRfi1VXm2wdqyeox3ZflZJbdaCic2K2k08BHZlv3yQ6iJ72jhAD-NiY_uTqmkyc6MpfoBk4JhUD6cKjpwnOhrgZWL31ppuhHba57KK-3NFck3zMQ8tH_zdZ-klA3ubY6bwiKLCg0YHhjY/s400/30++_DSC1458.JPG" width="263" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Another Michigan History group plaque</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Jerrod and I went outside
and sat on a bench on the front porch. We were both soaking up the atmosphere.
It was a lovely summer day. We were thinking about Hemingway and the stories he
set here. He mentions the general store with the "high false front"
in "Up In Michigan", his first significant short story (from 1921). And
it was the model for "Mr. Packard's store" in his unfinished novella
"The Last Good Country". </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrb69KnV6yHPbBOI9imeU2OLB6_CbbDg5r88g9tMU7FFMcv_Iq2Fjmnjr3oBnOcjF6LE30_M4YnwRKeUh7UKwmdBqXWahfM-JvoP4PUhpPozGruIB0LtpNKUWQkVHl9vdItanaw2r59Ag/s1600/31+_DSC1460.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrb69KnV6yHPbBOI9imeU2OLB6_CbbDg5r88g9tMU7FFMcv_Iq2Fjmnjr3oBnOcjF6LE30_M4YnwRKeUh7UKwmdBqXWahfM-JvoP4PUhpPozGruIB0LtpNKUWQkVHl9vdItanaw2r59Ag/s640/31+_DSC1460.JPG" width="420" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Horton Bay General Store—heart of the community in Hemingway's time</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">When Hemingway first started
writing successful short stories in Paris (in the mid-1920s) he was reminiscing
about—and making sense of—his last few summers in Horton Bay. In 1916 he spent
more time than ever with the Dilworths and became close friends with Bill and
Katy Smith. He had known them for several years. They came from St. Louis (as
did his future-wife Hadley Richardson), and spent every summer in Horton Bay
with their aunt Mrs. Charles.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Hemingway missed his first
summer in Upper Michigan in 1918; he was serving with the American Red Cross
near the front in north-east Italy during WWI. He spent the autumn and early
winter in Milan, recuperating from serious shrapnel injuries to his legs. When
he got home in 1919, he spent the summer in Horton Bay with Bill. At the end of
the summer he did a camping and fishing trip to the Fox River, near Seney, in
the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. That experience inspired his best short story
about fishing—"Big Two-Hearted River", which he wrote in Paris in
1925.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">At the end of that summer,
after the Hemingway family returned to Oak Park in Chicago, Ernest stayed on at
Horton Bay and helped the Dilworths with the seed-potato harvest. Then he moved
up to Petoskey and boarded at the Eva Potter Rooming House. His war-talk at the
Carnegie Library in Petoskey in December lead to his three-month job at the Connable
mansion in Toronto. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The "summer people" in 1920: (left-to-right) Carl Edgar, Katy Smith, Marcelline H., </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Bill Horne, Ernest and Bill Smith</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In the early summer of 1920,
Ernie was back in Horton Bay. Shortly after his 21st. birthday in July, Ernest's
mother threw him out of Windemere Cottage, following a huge argument. He felt
that she had hated him since he opposed her spending the money on building
Grace Cottage. He spent most of the summer in Horton Bay with his usual gang of
friends. He reminisces about this time later in the short story "Summer
People".</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The "summer people" down at the Bay in 1920 (Hemingway third from right)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">When he returned to Chicago
in the autumn, Ernest finally broke his ties with home. He could not face
living under Grace's roof again. He did not go back to the family home in Oak
Park; he moved into the city and shared digs in an apartment with a few
friends. It was there that he met Hadley Richardson. She had come from St. Louis
to spend time with her friend Katy Smith—who was also Ernie's close friend from
Horton Bay. Ernie and Katy had deep feelings for each other.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Hadley and Ernest soon
became a couple. She moved back to St. Louis, and they exchanged almost-daily
letters to each other. Hemingway went down to St. Louis to visit and the couple
became engaged. Hadley was an orphan; her mother had died the previous autumn.
So they decided to get married at the Methodist church in Horton Bay. Hemingway
didn't want a big wedding and he wanted to marry in a comfortable environment.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm-zJ-IhZv3Qg0sHGXNnqNAvbzgHol8Uf0eEORxib-SVwnjBhv8pur3ViUlohWzKjQ7bSHMW6iBkI1C_Vx4xGUvfj79dKQOqqJa3njNYFzbLeCPghQUGBrXgxrUZNWEuySuq94P3Agkfc/s1600/34+7db53f6541ad69b37e4e02c3e310eae6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm-zJ-IhZv3Qg0sHGXNnqNAvbzgHol8Uf0eEORxib-SVwnjBhv8pur3ViUlohWzKjQ7bSHMW6iBkI1C_Vx4xGUvfj79dKQOqqJa3njNYFzbLeCPghQUGBrXgxrUZNWEuySuq94P3Agkfc/s400/34+7db53f6541ad69b37e4e02c3e310eae6.jpg" width="227" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Hadley on her wedding day (Sep. 3, 1921)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Ernest and Hadley married on
September 3rd., 1921. In addition to the immediate Hemingway family, Ernie also
invited everyone in Horton Bay to attend. Bill Horne was best man. Most of the
"summer people" were there. The service was held at the Methodist
Church, located next door to the General Store. Following the wedding, everyone
moved down to Pinehurst Cottage, where Liz Dilworth supervised the preparation
of a wedding brunch—one of her familiar chicken-dinners, served up next door in
Shangri-La.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvNvnKJ3sV8eEEEtiCeb-QC906JjqL-NK7GbfaeF5XiQ1pag0b0a7VlAuOC8pRYkjWC5XkDvWbTURPAuVyXwUmSlfnU1_9SEVZR_gpYE_vGOV6jTCRX5SGxiG06uakn7IrC6BG5Qc11AM/s1600/35+Ernest_Hemingway_1921_wedding_day.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="432" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvNvnKJ3sV8eEEEtiCeb-QC906JjqL-NK7GbfaeF5XiQ1pag0b0a7VlAuOC8pRYkjWC5XkDvWbTURPAuVyXwUmSlfnU1_9SEVZR_gpYE_vGOV6jTCRX5SGxiG06uakn7IrC6BG5Qc11AM/s640/35+Ernest_Hemingway_1921_wedding_day.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Ernest and Hadley's wedding day in Horton Bay</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdFUPu7vHv2D8BHB9M5tgZVT9yAlZAq7lg-9tDyCFTTgbBd9cl_Bn_iy4sY378j7HD-1DE9Yx2Z0HH52OWxPeRwgP-tFEalGzxvcw_OwM1oltpmDdRgt_UfWBIkLz_lLs0oM8ePh3Bg0A/s1600/36+Pinehurst+Cottage+8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="456" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdFUPu7vHv2D8BHB9M5tgZVT9yAlZAq7lg-9tDyCFTTgbBd9cl_Bn_iy4sY378j7HD-1DE9Yx2Z0HH52OWxPeRwgP-tFEalGzxvcw_OwM1oltpmDdRgt_UfWBIkLz_lLs0oM8ePh3Bg0A/s640/36+Pinehurst+Cottage+8.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Pinehurst Cottage—site for the wedding reception</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Ernest's parents were in
attendance; Grace had patched things up somewhat with her son. And she had
offered the couple the use of Windemere Cottage for their two-week honeymoon.
At about 4 p.m., a friend drove them over to Longfield <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">F</span>arm in his Model T
Ford. Ernest rowed one of the family's boats over to Windemere.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In that last year from 1920
to 1921, Hemingway seemed to linger in and around Horton Bay as though he knew they
would be the last times he ever spent there. The marriage service and wedding
celebration in Horton Bay marked the end of Hemingway's Michigan summers. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmQQIboq-WuIrGD9Nd2xa1pabjbMZVegeTD7pl8s4WTlCwx3ZnaEgtser_R9Zsv8gPlmVsu2jngmpjtD88-cn76Z6-jp53zW0KeVCNeq0SkwAa7rNliShjnjtGgBzFYS85VhfoNQwGKKA/s1600/37+_DSC1480.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmQQIboq-WuIrGD9Nd2xa1pabjbMZVegeTD7pl8s4WTlCwx3ZnaEgtser_R9Zsv8gPlmVsu2jngmpjtD88-cn76Z6-jp53zW0KeVCNeq0SkwAa7rNliShjnjtGgBzFYS85VhfoNQwGKKA/s640/37+_DSC1480.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Looking over to Windemere Cottage</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Jerrod and I drove over to the
location of Longfield Farm from Horton Bay. We went south-east along the Boyne
City Road and then turned east onto Sumner Road (named after the Hemingway's tenant farmer at Longfield). At the very end of the road it
turns from a tarmac surface to a dirt road. There is a boat access and a short
pier for tying up small boats. We stood at the end of this dock, looking across
Walloon Lake towards Windemere Cottage. We thought of Hemingway's short story
"Fathers and Sons", which features an extended portrait of Ernie's
father Clarence (in the guise of Dr. Adams). The father's acute eyesight is
mentioned, and Nick Adams recalls the two of them standing here, on the
southern shore of Walloon Lake, and his father being able to see things that he
couldn't: flag, flagpole, sister Dorothy and sheep.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"Nick would look
across the lake and he could see the long wooded shoreline, the higher timber
behind, the point that guarded the bay, the clear hills of the farm and the
white of their cottage in the trees ... ."</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In two<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">-</span>and<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">-</span>a<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">-</span>half<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"> </span>days we had
done Harbour Springs, Petoskey, Walloon Lake, and Horton Bay. Not bad! Our adventure
was over; our pilgrimage complete.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlDz859PfXmrMt8HRzq6rhOGWdBZMsN_Lg1VGKzF89NTDUaBqdgR-KYOBhU9CaLfK2dyzAm87THzjWjrc2PrEYhTMnqG_dxFsqPNJeDfRb9iSaWnOB1LcjZxMLL7Vku7k1Badkw_zTfhI/s1600/38+_DSC1487.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlDz859PfXmrMt8HRzq6rhOGWdBZMsN_Lg1VGKzF89NTDUaBqdgR-KYOBhU9CaLfK2dyzAm87THzjWjrc2PrEYhTMnqG_dxFsqPNJeDfRb9iSaWnOB1LcjZxMLL7Vku7k1Badkw_zTfhI/s640/38+_DSC1487.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Our pilgrimage complete</span></td></tr>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 18.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Resources</span></b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT6UOOjk1TlvuCdXWwTsJE6HdvgOKeCNaO581b9IESLhyPgKHSQzfYexqoKgL3fBo9SDNcVn_63eR_RrMW1wIAd2JO31X2AGOo2bG8DpZLeGHxc7IxwFs-REO70O5vx8dK8ex0rUqdp-o/s1600/1+author-ernest-hemingway-spent-much-of-his-youth-exploring-northern-michigan-here-he-seen-canoeing-as-a-young-man-682d63af1163b589.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT6UOOjk1TlvuCdXWwTsJE6HdvgOKeCNaO581b9IESLhyPgKHSQzfYexqoKgL3fBo9SDNcVn_63eR_RrMW1wIAd2JO31X2AGOo2bG8DpZLeGHxc7IxwFs-REO70O5vx8dK8ex0rUqdp-o/s400/1+author-ernest-hemingway-spent-much-of-his-youth-exploring-northern-michigan-here-he-seen-canoeing-as-a-young-man-682d63af1163b589.jpg" width="286" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Biographical
Information:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYTIdInI-QjvVCqXGPiTX3TCdKyLgOYyhDpHjxM9E79-tC-t5ZufNN7d3J3q8kfdzaaUL9A1jbcwoToRijoLP31efbo5tTtihurvCpwCdefz9_louD8t_D8qMDWrMl_MuoDndatQINMx0/s1600/2+20061.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYTIdInI-QjvVCqXGPiTX3TCdKyLgOYyhDpHjxM9E79-tC-t5ZufNN7d3J3q8kfdzaaUL9A1jbcwoToRijoLP31efbo5tTtihurvCpwCdefz9_louD8t_D8qMDWrMl_MuoDndatQINMx0/s400/2+20061.jpg" width="277" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
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<a href="https://www.amazon.ca/Hemingway-Story-----signed-Carlos-1969-08-01/dp/B01K15WYUW/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1476193878&sr=1-1&keywords=carlos+baker+hemingway"><u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Ernest Hemingway: A Life Story</span></u></a><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">, by
Carlos Baker, Charles Scribner's Sons, 1969.</span></div>
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<a href="https://www.amazon.ca/Young-Hemingway-Michael-Reynolds-ebook/dp/B007XOPKGK/ref=sr_1_5?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1476043096&sr=1-5&keywords=michael+reynolds+hemingway"><u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The Young Hemingway</span></u></a><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> by
Michael Reynolds, Norton & Co., 1986. [This is the first volume of
Reynolds' excellent<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>five-volume
biography of Hemingway.]</span></div>
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<a href="https://www.amazon.ca/Hemingway-Michigan-Constance-Cappel-1977-05-03/dp/B01FKUWBDS/ref=sr_1_6?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1476043013&sr=1-6&keywords=constance+cappel"><u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Hemingway In Michigan</span></u></a><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> by
Constance Cappel (Montgomery), Vermont Crossroads Press, 1977. [This excellent
book provides links between all of Hemingway's Upper Michigan-based fiction and
the places that inspired it.] </span></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Michael Palin's Hemingway Adventure</span></u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> by
Michael Palin, Weidenfeld & Nicolson, 1999 [This is based on the diaries
and notes Palin kept during the filming of the BBC-TV series; it is not a
transcript of the TV-series.]</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><a href="http://www.michiganhemingwaysociety.org/articlelinks/UpNorthFederspiel.htm">"Up North With the Hemingways"</a> by Michael
Federspiel, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Michigan History Magazine</i>,
Sep/Oct<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>2007.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><a href="http://www.saugatuck.com/emailhtm/MUSI_NEWSRELEASE/hemmingway.pdf">"Dad, Are We There Yet?"</a><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> </i>by Morris Buske in <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Michigan
History Magazine</i>, March/April 1999.</span></div>
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<a href="http://mihemingwaytour.org/files/3313/3856/1330/HemingwayBrochure.pdf"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Hemingway's Michigan</span></i></a><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>a brochure
published by The Michigan Hemingway Society, available at the Little Traverse
History Museum</span></div>
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<a href="http://mihemingwaytour.org/"><br /></a></div>
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<a href="http://mihemingwaytour.org/"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Tour Hemingway's Michigan</span></i></a><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">, a website established by The Michigan
Hemingway Society in 2016. This site contains a <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">PDF </i>file version of the society's useful brochure.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Hemingway
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"Up in Michigan" (1921)—from <u>Three Stories
and Ten Poems</u> (1923)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"Indian Camp" (1924)—from <u>In Our Time</u>
(1925)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"The Doctor and The Doctor's Wife" (1924) from <u>In
Our Time</u> (1925)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"The End of Something" (1924) from <u>In Our
Time</u> (1925)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"The Three-Day Blow" (1924) from <u>In Our Time</u>
(1925)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"The Battler" (1925) from <u>In Our Time</u>
(1925)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"Big Two-Hearted River" (1925) from <u>In Our
Time</u> (1925) </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"Ten Indians" (1925) from <u>Men Without Women</u>
(1927)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"The Killers" (1927) from <u>Men Without Women</u>
(1927)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"The Light of the World" (1932) from <u>Winner
Take Nothing</u> (1933)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"Father and Sons" (1933) from <u>Winner Take
Nothing</u> (1933)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"Summer People" (1924) from <u>The Nick Adams
Stories</u> (1972)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"The Last Good Country" (ca. 1951-1961) from <u>The
Nick Adams Stories</u> (1972)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"Wedding Day" (?) from <u>The Nick Adams
Stories</u> (1972)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"On Writing" (1925) from <u>The Nick Adams
Stories</u> (1972), deleted from "Big Two-Hearted River"</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmVYyjdQI5kNy43D2ubup67ot6ES7EQWLFLnXfedZDYBMd4Qs1y-X0Ub3AAaAPzVAVqzXKverMfUkQ64IgZwnkJZVyv0GwLnxKvAcdgJRXryczBPUCaL5HUVr9XNU3hp5bEQbNCFRNSNA/s1600/5+In+Our+Time.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="303" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmVYyjdQI5kNy43D2ubup67ot6ES7EQWLFLnXfedZDYBMd4Qs1y-X0Ub3AAaAPzVAVqzXKverMfUkQ64IgZwnkJZVyv0GwLnxKvAcdgJRXryczBPUCaL5HUVr9XNU3hp5bEQbNCFRNSNA/s400/5+In+Our+Time.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Some of Hemingway's best stories set in Michigan were published in this book (1925)</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The Torrents of Spring,</span></u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> Charles
Scribner's Sons, 1925., satirical novella set in Petoskey.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="https://www.amazon.ca/Nick-Adams-Stories-Ernest-Hemingway/dp/0684169401/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1476193979&sr=1-1&keywords=The+Nick+Adams+Stories"><u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The Nick Adams Stories</span></u></a><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">, Charles
Scribner's Sons, 1972., short stories set mostly in Walloon Lake, Horton Bay,
and Petoskey</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The Complete Short Stories of Ernest
Hemingway: The Finca Vigia Edition</span></u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">, Charles Scribner's Sons, 1987.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Ernest Hemingway: The Collected Stories</span></u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">,
edited by James Fenton, Everyman's Library, 1995.</span></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHDeK8psKS46mOHQ0qCFqMbHOsIQ1R-hz7JmgTr32aXVxCTJnERcXW79R6wUWNLvwjWlk-vlA4EXkKIVTPvP5_CldGgu8FzRpdQ8rnV_0W0psAT5S5ZBxBpWCQsHCML8yTQFuTeovZZ0o/s1600/6+_DSC1138.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHDeK8psKS46mOHQ0qCFqMbHOsIQ1R-hz7JmgTr32aXVxCTJnERcXW79R6wUWNLvwjWlk-vlA4EXkKIVTPvP5_CldGgu8FzRpdQ8rnV_0W0psAT5S5ZBxBpWCQsHCML8yTQFuTeovZZ0o/s640/6+_DSC1138.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 18.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Colour
Photography by Clive W. Baugh</span></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">using
a Nikon D7000 camera (DSLR)</span></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">with a
Nikon18mm-105mm zoom lens</span></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; text-align: center;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">© Clive Baugh, 2016—do not use without permission</span></b></div>
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<br /></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">[panorama photos by
Jerrod Edson]</span></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3lRjvJ9Va18WMaELYj5cT4hILej_EyVBow-OINPyGGPlwc7Io4McNx9aLZpe6NBpvc1nDIQfWU3pcgx5pHTHjhRmT4Ap6hnrdNi7YPDa9aGvFRpCJa4plLa2ye_-X-Mmju35ieNCvAUQ/s1600/7+Hem+fishing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3lRjvJ9Va18WMaELYj5cT4hILej_EyVBow-OINPyGGPlwc7Io4McNx9aLZpe6NBpvc1nDIQfWU3pcgx5pHTHjhRmT4Ap6hnrdNi7YPDa9aGvFRpCJa4plLa2ye_-X-Mmju35ieNCvAUQ/s400/7+Hem+fishing.jpg" width="216" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt;"> </span></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt;">B&W archival
photos </span></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>were found on-line and assumed to be public
domain </span></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">(please advise if
images here violate copyright restrictions); </span></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">some archival photos from
the Hemingway collection at the J.F.K. Library in Boston.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4GExsjPYkAJl_UUfm-nxRU18PnBX95RU5dp10D0uqy9j8N95Dv71nNbBSrhnep6QLAWlCSzX4IOPvs6f4IN6hXIEx9CJNoYIeCutctorb7xZeEnfo8zQdq4SmeVyjLiMKLx47W9Ep7zo/s1600/8+Panorama+8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="138" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4GExsjPYkAJl_UUfm-nxRU18PnBX95RU5dp10D0uqy9j8N95Dv71nNbBSrhnep6QLAWlCSzX4IOPvs6f4IN6hXIEx9CJNoYIeCutctorb7xZeEnfo8zQdq4SmeVyjLiMKLx47W9Ep7zo/s640/8+Panorama+8.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
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<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Other photo-essay posts of mine about Ernest
Hemingway:</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="http://clive-w.blogspot.ca/2015/01/normal-0-false-false-false-en-us-x-none.html"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Book Review of Hotel Florida by Amanda Vaill </span></a></div>
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[about Hemingway and
Martha Gellhorn in the Spanish Civil War in the mid-1930s]</div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="http://clive-w.blogspot.ca/search/label/Cojimar"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Photo Essay: Hemingway's Cojimar in Cuba</span></a></div>
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[lots of photos of
Cojimar, where Hemingway docked his boat <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Pilar</i>]</div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="http://clive-w.blogspot.ca/search/label/Midnight%20in%20Paris"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Photo Essay and Film Review of Hemingway in Midnight in Paris -- Part Two</span></a></div>
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[Photos of places in
Paris used in portraying Hemingway's life there in the mid-1920s]</div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="http://clive-w.blogspot.ca/2014/05/photo-essay-pilar-hemingways-boat-at.html">Pilar -- Hemingway's Boat at Finca Vigia in Cuba</a></div>
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[Photos and story of
Hemingway's boat, in which he fished for marlin in the gulf stream]</div>
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<a href="http://clive-w.blogspot.ca/2013/10/photo-essay-ernest-hemingway-paris-years.html">
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<a href="http://clive-w.blogspot.ca/2013/10/photo-essay-ernest-hemingway-paris-years.html"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Ernest Hemingway -- The Paris Years</span></a></div>
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[Photos of all the
key places associated with Hemingway in Paris from 1922-1927]</div>
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<![endif]--><a href="http://clive-w.blogspot.ca/2012/02/photo-essay-hemingways-cuban-homes.html"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Hemingway in Cuba -- Ambos Mundos & Finca Vigia</span></a></div>
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[Lots of Photos of Finca
Vigia and Hem's apartment in Havana's Ambos Mundos hotel]</div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="http://clive-w.blogspot.ca/2014/09/photo-essay-hemingway-and-midnight-in.html"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Film Review: Woody Gets Ernest in"Midnight in Paris"</span></a></div>
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[Fully illustrated
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<br />
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I have also produced
a ten-minute YouTube video called<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span></div>
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QgeAtetP7CM&t=114s"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Finca Vigia: Ernest Hemingway'sCuban Home</span></i></a></div>
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featuring about 100 of
my own colour photographs and about 40 B&W archival photos</div>
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<br /></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
Clive Baughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10523779808271053053noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8282904905780175338.post-16203576934320415392016-01-11T13:36:00.000-05:002016-01-20T21:19:12.792-05:00Humour: Apostrophic Moments and Dialectical Disputations<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfo90LRgboVn708ZWfFmA3Mjfngkcr9SnhUTMMwr9_CjGI8zuC3PHrIv38h3tSkMdTPbR3bkibPLFbBywYEd3iV7mX_CyJWj_Ljf08SaPU914gk0u1dHsq4AmYljBDsLOV5cu3roEKDEI/s1600/Apostrophe-man.col1.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="397" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfo90LRgboVn708ZWfFmA3Mjfngkcr9SnhUTMMwr9_CjGI8zuC3PHrIv38h3tSkMdTPbR3bkibPLFbBywYEd3iV7mX_CyJWj_Ljf08SaPU914gk0u1dHsq4AmYljBDsLOV5cu3roEKDEI/s400/Apostrophe-man.col1.png" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br />
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span><br />
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">It’s
not often that life throws up the opportunity to talk about women’s underwear with
a complete stranger. But there it was. I was passing a lingerie store in the
shopping mall and eyed the offending poster glued to the front window. “SALE!”
it declared; “BRA'S 20% off.”</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Bra’s?
I thought. That’s not right. The mistake stuck out—you know—stuck out like a
sore thumb. I stepped inside and approached the woman behind the sales counter
at the back of the store. This might be construed as indelicate, but I thrust
myself forward, anyway. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">“Bra’s,”
I said. “B-R-A-apostrophe-S.”</span><br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">“What?”
she said.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">“Your
sign on the store window,” I replied; “It says Bra’s for sale. The word 'bras'
is actually spelt with just an s. You don’t need the apostrophe.” She looked at
me blankly. “To form a plural,” I persisted, “just add an s. Apostrophe-s is
the possessive—it means belonging to the bra.”</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">“What?”</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">“You
don’t need an apostrophe to make the plural," I explained<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">;</span> "it’s Grade 4
stuff."</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"Look
... the poster came to us from Toronto. We just stuck it on the window.”</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">“But
it’s wrong,” I said; “you ought to fix it.”</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">“I’ll
tell the manager.”</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">“Yeah,
right.”</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This
sort of thing often gets me going. It should be nipped, you know … nipped in
the bud. If you’re going to try to seize my attention in order to sell me
something, at least get the spelling, the punctuation and the grammar correct.
OK? Otherwise I’m likely to take direct action. </span><br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaZmUR02bXdxYmNC9DcHDUhSLoSC2jCOvawY8NzZoYqGcXN2WAVOjt0GUrCTkD1Pfo5lmJCLM7id2U98nDnSr4dJlGisE2ymA2bKAKKplvr9uVCtwQnbl_Ai7lwl60mxhdRCuDfFuZXd0/s1600/apostrophe-460_1111553c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaZmUR02bXdxYmNC9DcHDUhSLoSC2jCOvawY8NzZoYqGcXN2WAVOjt0GUrCTkD1Pfo5lmJCLM7id2U98nDnSr4dJlGisE2ymA2bKAKKplvr9uVCtwQnbl_Ai7lwl60mxhdRCuDfFuZXd0/s640/apostrophe-460_1111553c.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This
superfluous use of the apostrophe is referred to in Britain as the greengrocer’s
apostrophe—because of its common misapplication on market-stall signs:
banana’s, apple’s, and pear’s, for example. And, of course, we might laugh at
the mistaken spelling of the singular ‘potatoe'—remember when we laughed at Dan
Quayle for that mistake?—but then go and write up a sign for a bunch of them as
potato’s. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Sometimes
you complain, and the response is useless; but at other times, you <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">can</i> succeed in getting things fixed.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I
was at the ATM in my local bank branch, some time ago, when I read a hand-made
sign done in bold lettering. It was taped to the top panel of the machine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At the top of the sign it declared simply:
“Saturday’s.” Further down the sign it explained that the bank was now going to
be open from 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. on all "Saturday’s". I finished
my ATM banking and strolled into the main door of the branch. I was met by a
greeter near the door. She was seated on a stool behind a mini-counter. As is
my want, I jumped straight in—with little preamble.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">“It
says on a sign in the ATM room out there that you’re open on Saturday’s: S-A-T-U-R-D-A-Y-apostrophe-S.”</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">“Yes?”</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">“Well,
you don’t need the apostrophe, do you? For a plural noun, just add an s.”</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">“You’re
right,” she said. “That’s a silly mistake. I’ll look into getting it fixed.”</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">“Well
… OK … thanks.” I left the bank happy—mission accomplished, I thought. Sure
enough, the next time I was at that ATM—a few days later—the sign was still posted
there, but the apostrophe had been removed with liquid paper. And the sign is
still there almost a year later. Every time I see that whited-out apostrophe, I
register a moment of satisfaction. Of such small things is progress made.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">But
it is a constant battle. You have to keep people on their toes. A while ago I was
passing a small shop in our neighbourhood. A poster in the window said: "Tis’
the Season to be Giving."</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I
poked my head in the door. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">“Hello?”
I called.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">“Yes,”
came a voice from the back of the shop.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">“The
sign in your front window ... it says Tis', T-I-S-apostrophe. The apostrophe
should be placed at the front: apostrophe-T-I-S.”</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">“What?”</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">“Tis
is an abbreviation for ‘it is’. You drop the i at the beginning, so an
apostrophe belongs there. Not at the end.”</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">She
strode up to the front of the store and gazed briefly at the window—reading the
words on the poster in reverse. “You know, you’re absolutely right,” she said.
“I screwed that up. I’ll do up another one. Thanks for pointing that out.”</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">“Yeah,
no problem—you’re welcome.” Well, that’s different, I thought.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhcG8CKyW6CFzQn4-hIS-h2cTVOUv0A5vjPgOxK-ThXE_Vztk9jULeuTZRHsAulbrHtTFEbX1pMWLaQiV3zdNB_Rpolumpg0Yq_mqEayCwg-3IRNH5yFXq4swYP9rUEdIWMo6G23-5bwg/s1600/apostrophe+abuse.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhcG8CKyW6CFzQn4-hIS-h2cTVOUv0A5vjPgOxK-ThXE_Vztk9jULeuTZRHsAulbrHtTFEbX1pMWLaQiV3zdNB_Rpolumpg0Yq_mqEayCwg-3IRNH5yFXq4swYP9rUEdIWMo6G23-5bwg/s320/apostrophe+abuse.jpeg" width="312" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Sometimes,
though, the problem with offending signs isn’t a matter of spelling or punctuation—it’s
a matter of reason or logic.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I
was in the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Pita Pit</i>, once—with my
wife—negotiating the purchase of a falafel sandwich. Above the cash machine was
a sign that read “Extra Essentials”. It was announcing the optional
side dishes: <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">humus</i>, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">baba ganouje</i>, and the like. </span><br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I
looked at the cashier and then pointed up at the sign. She looked up, over her
shoulder.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">“Extra
essentials?” I asked.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">“Yes?”</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">“Well,
think about it,” I said. “If they’re extra, then they’re not essentials, are
they? I mean, the essentials are basic, right? It’s what you get regardless of
anything else. They’re not extras. If you want extras, it’s going to be over
and above the basics. Right?”</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">My
wife pinched me on the arm. "Clive ... ", she said with noticeable
irritation. But I pressed on.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The cashier
looked up at the sign again. And then gave me a look of some disdain.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">“Well,
they are extra, anyway, aren’t they?”</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">“Oxymoronic—perhaps—but
not essential. And I’ll just stick to the falafel, OK?”</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
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</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6PClR9_pwUy28fv1dw06XYK4rc5nx7LRRbHzk5jtsN7NquNsCA67tMzcYRIw8kIp4nuvFNFDr-pDdkURB9BURea_W8eQx6hzDhpHN53mXYdU2jLwbhhvKTqd9UbVpJ-ccgsWraMj-LaA/s1600/alarmed.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6PClR9_pwUy28fv1dw06XYK4rc5nx7LRRbHzk5jtsN7NquNsCA67tMzcYRIw8kIp4nuvFNFDr-pDdkURB9BURea_W8eQx6hzDhpHN53mXYdU2jLwbhhvKTqd9UbVpJ-ccgsWraMj-LaA/s400/alarmed.png" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Yes,
the wording of some signs just beggars belief. I was in <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Ikea</i> once and noticed an emergency exit with the following notice
printed on it: THIS DOOR IS ALARMED AND SHOULD NOT BE OPENED. In bold capital
letters, no less. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I
found the nearest ‘sales associate’ to express my concern. I pointed over to
the door.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">“Why
is that door alarmed?”</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">“Why?
Because it’s an emergency door.”</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">“Yes,
I realize that. It’s doing a useful job—closed and blocking our way; so why
would it be alarmed? What is it afraid of?”</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">“What?” </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">“Well,
there are two problems here, you see. First, you have the illegitimate use of a
noun as a past participle.” Her eyebrows were lifted skyward. “And the passive
voice here is just plainly wrong. This ought to be an imperative statement: DO
NOT OPEN THIS DOOR – THERE IS AN ALARM ATTACHED. That sort of thing.”</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">“Really,
sir?”</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">“Oh,
yes—cruel to leave it alarmed for so long, don't you think, without any
assistance.”</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">She
looked a little confused. And, for some reason, rather flabbergasted. I turned
away to find my wife—who had put some considerable distance between herself and
me. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">My
long-suffering wife. We got into an a<span id="goog_131237431"></span><span id="goog_131237432"></span>rgument one time about a 'debate' I had
with a waitress out on the east coast. We were seated at the restaurant inside
the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Keith’s</i> brewery in downtown
Halifax. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The
waitress was waiting patiently at our table, while I examined the list of
Keith's beers on tap. The menu informed us that the half-pints and pints of ale
on offer were served in eight- and sixteen-ounce glasses respectively.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">“You
can’t call it a pint,” I explained parenthetically, “if it’s not twenty fluid ounces.”</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">“It
is a pint, sir” she said. She pointed at the spot on the menu. "There ... pint—sixteen
ounces."</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">“Sorry,
that's just wrong—an imperial pint is 20 fluid ounces.”</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"We
serve pints, sir."</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"Clive
...".</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"I'll
ask in the kitchen, sir."</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"Fine."</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">She
disappeared to confer with her partners in crime, who were hiding somewhere beyond
the swinging door. My wife registered her disapproval. I explained defensively about
the illegality of charging pint-prices for servings that were four ounces
short.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A
couple of minutes later [Oh, to have been a fly on the wall in that kitchen!]
she was back.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"It's
a pint," she reported, with an air of satisfaction. "Sixteen ounces
is an American pint."</span><br />
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<![endif]--><span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I
looked at her and said—with what my wife mistakenly described later as an air
of condescension: "But this is Canada; we use Imperial measures here.
Right?"</span></span><br />
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<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">For many
years my local pub had "nacho's" on their menu. After I had made several
apostrophic interventions about this egregious error, the establishment finally
fixed the problem. The new menu included "nachos"—but also this strange
item: "Formerly Known As" Bacon n' Mozzarella Burger. Ignoring for
now the punctuation mistake, ponder for a moment the problematic logic of this
p<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">eculiar</span> nomenclature.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">When
the waitress arrived to take our orders, I broached the issue in a calm and
reasonable manner.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"It
says here 'Formerly known as' Bacon n' Mozzarella Burger."</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"Yes,
sir<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">—</span>it's quite tasty, actually," she replied.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"That's
as maybe. But I'd like to know what it's called now. The menu ought to be
telling us, eh."</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I
felt a kick to the shin from my wife, who was seated across the table from me.
She was glaring at me, for some reason.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"What
do you mean? It's a Bacon and mozzarella burger—with French fries on the
side."</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"Forget
the fries," I said. "I need to know what the burger is called—in case
I'm keen to order."</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"I
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<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"No,
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<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"Clive
... !" said my wife, in a strange tone.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"OK,
then; I'll have a pound of chicken wings—with medium sauce."</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">After
the waitress took our order to the kitchen, my wife said: "You know what,
sometimes you can be a bit of an asshole."</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"No,"
I replied. "It's not asshole; it's arsehole. Besides, I don't understand
what you mean."</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-CA" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span></div>
Clive Baughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10523779808271053053noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8282904905780175338.post-10946011246533522442015-12-17T23:05:00.003-05:002015-12-19T08:15:34.908-05:00Album/Video Review: "1+" (Deluxe Edition) by The Beatles<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEQ-bs9RT-IncaQ-HkkOEi1K-cPe1IkSiSwORIulhfwVz6vk76r43xceL-oQyXxsBrxG1szkg8Svgmnfa5N5NJOkoA-encXLHYfQanH_oMl2NOhvrjEZxYulhD2bvzbEzCLjDhzl0icb0/s1600/71HUHuHcKqL._SL1500_.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEQ-bs9RT-IncaQ-HkkOEi1K-cPe1IkSiSwORIulhfwVz6vk76r43xceL-oQyXxsBrxG1szkg8Svgmnfa5N5NJOkoA-encXLHYfQanH_oMl2NOhvrjEZxYulhD2bvzbEzCLjDhzl0icb0/s400/71HUHuHcKqL._SL1500_.jpg" width="296" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The front cover </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
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<br /></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The
Summary</span></b></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This is a comprehensive
review of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">1+</i>, Apple's latest release
of Beatles music and videos. Is this new product worth the attention of either
the discriminating fan, or the casual consumer?
And if so, in which particular iteration? There are five to choose from! Read
on for a detailed consideration of those key questions. </span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The
Concept</span></b></div>
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<br /></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">1+
— </span></i><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">as
the title suggests —<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> </i>is a sequel to
the Beatles' album <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">1</i>, but a sequel
with a significant amount of additional material. It is, first of all, a
re-mastering and re-mixing of the music on that previous album release<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">. </i>But <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">1+</i> is much more than that; the improved audio was done primarily to
complement the release (November, 2015) of 50 Beatles music videos. The original
album <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">1 </i>(released on November 13,
2000)<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> </i>was a compilation of 27 Beatles
singles that reached #1 in either the UK or US between 1962 and 1970 — as documented
by the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Record Retailer</i> Top 50 chart
in the UK and the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Billboard</i> Hot 100
chart in the U.S. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The 1+ </i>package offers a music CD and two discs of video in a DVD or Blu-ray format.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The original 27-track compilation
(from 2000) was supervised by George Martin, Paul McCartney, George Harrison,
and Ringo Starr. Sales of the album exceeded all expectations — all of the
material on it, after all, had been released and re-released multiple times, in
many different formats. Perhaps it was the convenience of having much of their
most popular work available on a single disc that made it attractive —
especially to a younger audience, who may not have collected already all the
previous singles, EPs and albums.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOOeMiBFsmBMtUIRL_Z8SAKYif0I2X_q10_aTk14sBxvIZ011_PQU5Rb0E4-FUHGjuBbKidPpXgh_e0sJRqj77YyUPDKBe97D2GfCjZGKDDLj-_bpZ1Ux_UzqvidY7VoIOz7TbXS-TZeQ/s1600/The-Beatles.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOOeMiBFsmBMtUIRL_Z8SAKYif0I2X_q10_aTk14sBxvIZ011_PQU5Rb0E4-FUHGjuBbKidPpXgh_e0sJRqj77YyUPDKBe97D2GfCjZGKDDLj-_bpZ1Ux_UzqvidY7VoIOz7TbXS-TZeQ/s640/The-Beatles.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The music featured on <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">1</i> was first mastered for CDs back in
1987 and 1988. It was re-mastered in 1993 for the two double-album compilations
— the red (1962-1966) and blue (1967-1970) albums. The re-mastering of the
tracks for the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">1</i> compilation was done
by Peter Mew at the Abbey Road studios. His work has been criticised by many
people for its poor sound quality — especially for his use of the NoNoise process
(which is designed to remove tape-hiss; but, in the process, also happens to
remove high-frequency details from the music). The album was re-mastered again
in 2011. And for this new release of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">1+</i>
the work has been re-mastered and — more importantly, as I'll discuss later —
re-mixed.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The original release of the
2000 compilation was a huge commercial success. In its first year of release,
it sold 13.8 million copies, and topped the album charts in 35 countries. Sales
currently exceed 31 million.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This new release (November
6, 2015) is being billed as a "deluxe version" of the original 2000
compilation. But I consider it a sequel. What's important, here, is not the
re-mixed, improved audio quality, it's the two-disc collection of 50 videos available
for purchase, along with the audio CD.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv78UJaujZpaqtyeD4nfu8d7mMmDTDvZpMQRIHopDx35HZEWOW3isEb9C_HUhMJIySvOh667CYJyfqoIHyapwatCSRxvUXuqGnu8sj19f39b3pueNpiMDx9zpl7xc_zzps4jhSp4trd_U/s1600/81cMdkliNaL._SL1500_.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv78UJaujZpaqtyeD4nfu8d7mMmDTDvZpMQRIHopDx35HZEWOW3isEb9C_HUhMJIySvOh667CYJyfqoIHyapwatCSRxvUXuqGnu8sj19f39b3pueNpiMDx9zpl7xc_zzps4jhSp4trd_U/s640/81cMdkliNaL._SL1500_.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Deluxe Edition: 1 audio CD and 2 Blu-ray (or DVD) discs</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The
Product(s)</span></b></div>
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<br /></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">1+
</span></i><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">is
available in five distinct versions. One might think of them as a series of different
iterations that move from the simplest (and cheapest) version towards the most
comprehensive and the highest-quality version (and, of course, the most
expensive!)</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Here are the five available options: </span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">1) the music CD only, with
the original 27 tracks released back in 2000 (but re-mastered and re-mixed); </span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">2) the CD and one DVD (containing
videos to match the 27 singles featured on the audio-only disc); </span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">3) the CD and two DVDs (in
addition to the videos for the 27 tracks, there is a second DVD, which features
another 23 videos); </span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">4) the CD and one Blu-ray
disc (featuring the first set of 27 videos in high-definition); </span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">5) the CD and two Blu-ray
discs (which contain all 50 videos in high-definition).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The particular version you
might decide to buy (if any) would depend on several things, not the least
being how much you are willing to fork out for what is, in most cases, incredibly
familiar material. Well, I went for option #5 — the version with the two
Blu-ray discs (the Full Monty!). </span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I have been listening to the
CD and watching the Blu-ray discs for the past month. I have listened to it all
on high-quality headphones — in order to detect differences in the mastering
and mixing. Here's a comprehensive account of what I've seen and heard.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK20Jffn6wY8UipZ2leFb9e_i1Z7okQAjk0c0NklSqODb_Y87x90UvOd5aMy5cMs2hNgDBbJYJe1mc9bN9c7A3Fco8MZWQy7sbYFwU_tqF835RWbgJggZhfiGAaK3wI-dzbvg1mvN78qk/s1600/817jPaGuOkL._SL1500_.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK20Jffn6wY8UipZ2leFb9e_i1Z7okQAjk0c0NklSqODb_Y87x90UvOd5aMy5cMs2hNgDBbJYJe1mc9bN9c7A3Fco8MZWQy7sbYFwU_tqF835RWbgJggZhfiGAaK3wI-dzbvg1mvN78qk/s640/817jPaGuOkL._SL1500_.jpg" width="466" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Back Cover listing the 50 music video tracks</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The
Audio</span></b></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The significance of this new
Beatles package, of course, is the set of 50 videos; but the improved sound is
also worthy of consideration. All of the music on <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">1+</i> has been re-mastered; most of it has been re-mixed. In addition
to the new mono and stereo mixes (done for those listening with a
straightforward playback system), there are also new 5.1 surround-sound mixes —
for those who have a four-speaker, "home theatre" set-up around their
TV. </span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The re-mastering of the 27
tracks on the audio CD is a further refinement of the work done for the 2011
mastering. The audio on the 50 DVD/Blu-ray tracks, however, contains
re-masterings from several sources: most of it consists of the re-mastered
tracks heard on the accompanying CD; some of it contains re-mastered tracks
from the 2009 stereo album releases; some of it features re-mastered versions
of BBC Radio recordings; and some of it features the re-masterings of live
performances done for film or television.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-eliEc3gUwJD03WdJ2XiEd6KuyfQJooIzzrYd15x5nfAxXCOXlSx5ePSG8DXYCiGVd7mhEVjXw8EkixgpWmf4GpFON6GZ3v-soGm1jWXvw5_Awj1wGokf-pdAum-1NnuChdag5FBC44M/s1600/maxresdefault+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-eliEc3gUwJD03WdJ2XiEd6KuyfQJooIzzrYd15x5nfAxXCOXlSx5ePSG8DXYCiGVd7mhEVjXw8EkixgpWmf4GpFON6GZ3v-soGm1jWXvw5_Awj1wGokf-pdAum-1NnuChdag5FBC44M/s640/maxresdefault+3.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Giles Martin, son of George Martin, supervised the audio mix</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The new audio "restoration"
has been produced by Giles Martin (son of Beatles' producer George Martin). The
new mixes were done by Giles Martin and Sam Okell at the Abbey Road Studios;
and the mastering was handled by Miles Showell and Tim Young. Jeff Lynne
(former member of The Move, ELO, and the Traveling Wilburys) and Steve Jay
helped re-mix "Free as a Bird" and "Real Love".</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Giles Martin and Sam Okell have
explained that they used previous releases of the music as the reference points
for their re-mixing work. They did not want to change the placement of
instruments in the mix, unless there was a technical reason at issue, or if
they felt it gave the individual instrument more presence, or improved the
overall sound of the track. Their main aim was to improve the presentation of
the vocal tracks and to give the music a richer, fuller sound. Many of the
previous stereo mixes had the lead vocals (often double-tracked) placed
completely in the right or left channel. Their belief was that the delivery of
the song's lyrics would be done more effectively by putting the lead vocals in
the centre of the mix.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The first changes I noticed
were with the vocals on "Can't Buy Me Love", "I Feel Fine",
"Day Tripper", and "We Can Work It Out". The two-tracked
lead vocals are separated slightly: one is dead centre, the other is marginally
to the left or right. It sounds better. In "Yellow Submarine", and
"Eleanor Rigby", previous mixes had the lead vocals all in one
channel. The new mix shifts the lead vocals to the centre.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8HAfoeu54ydn-ZX3welsykY7AGTddSdBiZDnJuEn7GumqpMndZ3kg0gN77uyrSbwXnK6Mr6cbA6UbdiqYUsSp0Jt6d36YYpBdlR49bGhM3pOdC0NDpNAWUeQ6FvZOLK9EM2N0g3oMzTA/s1600/restored.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8HAfoeu54ydn-ZX3welsykY7AGTddSdBiZDnJuEn7GumqpMndZ3kg0gN77uyrSbwXnK6Mr6cbA6UbdiqYUsSp0Jt6d36YYpBdlR49bGhM3pOdC0NDpNAWUeQ6FvZOLK9EM2N0g3oMzTA/s640/restored.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">A frame from "Penny Lane" promo film showing the image restoration</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">1+</i> mixes sometimes shift individual instruments — such as the drums
and guitar in "Paperback Writer" — from all-left, or all-right, into
the centre. In other tracks, a vocal or instrumental backing that was
previously placed narrowly in the middle of the mix has now been spread across
the spectrum: to the left, in the centre, and to the right of the mix. A good
example of this effect is heard in the string quartet backing for "Eleanor
Rigby". Noticeable flubs in previous mixes have also been fixed: near the
beginning of "All You Need is Love", for example, there used to be
complete silence for about 8 seconds in the right channel; and at the beginning
of the first verse of "Eleanor Rigby", Paul's lead vocal used to be heard
momentarily in both channels, before shifting over completely to the right
channel after a second or two. These sorts of minor discrepancies have been
diligently repaired. </span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Some of the more interesting
audio changes can be heard in the mixes on the second video disc.
"Strawberry Fields Forever", for example, has undergone several
subtle changes in instrumental positioning. And it sounds even better!
"Free As a Bird" and "Real Love" (created originally for
the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Anthology</i> series from Lennon's
poor-quality home-recordings) have been further improved.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The one new mix that I
disapprove of is "A Day In the Life". Previous mixes emphasized the
druggy-ambience ("I'd love to turn you on") by playing with the
positioning of the lead vocals. On the first two verses, Lennon's vocal begins
completely to the right, but then slowly drifts to the left. In the last verse,
the opposite occurs. Likewise, Paul's lead vocal ("Woke up, got out of bed
...") stays completely in the right channel. In the new mix; those lead
vocals are fixed resolutely in the centre. And Lennon's trippy, multi-tracked
and extended "Ahhhhh" (which comes at the end of Paul's section —
"... somebody spoke and I went into a dream") used to drift from
right, to left, and back again. Now it is also stuck rigidly in the centre of
the mix. I think the original idea was better — a more effective realization of
the lyrics' meaning. Well, you can't get them all right!</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Overall, though, the music
on these three discs sounds great: warm, vibrant and direct. It's probably not
enough by itself to justify the re-purchasing of the music CD. But the remixes
do enhance the quality of the accompanying videos.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The
Video</span></b></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The Beatles' career was long
over before the arrival of the MTV age. During the 1960s, pop singles got known
primarily through radio airplay; but they were also promoted by radio and
television appearances. The Beatles made about 125 TV appearances (of one sort
or another) in the UK, and participated in about 130 radio programs. Their
busiest period was the Beatlemania years of 1963 and 1964.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">By 1965, The Beatles were
known and loved all over the World; but it was no longer possible for them to
satisfy this international market by doing local TV appearances to promote the
release of each single. Beginning in 1965, therefore, they began exploring ways
of providing TV material for this growing world-wide audience. </span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAADjlSsQeMgR3PU5VWPybkGJnWjC57MXE4mKnge_XA_xpPte9dAeLCsu-wtcnAM0jC9tcWp1X6ZBw95l6umL1JxqWaXTYa-z7JgI4MpswvJhqtBv6FbLhVi96IBsZoMHGaCEC7i1GmT4/s1600/24ee57b1f387eb11beccead1ce1511f7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAADjlSsQeMgR3PU5VWPybkGJnWjC57MXE4mKnge_XA_xpPte9dAeLCsu-wtcnAM0jC9tcWp1X6ZBw95l6umL1JxqWaXTYa-z7JgI4MpswvJhqtBv6FbLhVi96IBsZoMHGaCEC7i1GmT4/s640/24ee57b1f387eb11beccead1ce1511f7.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">One of Joe McGrath's five promos filmed at Twickenham Studios</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The first results of this
effort were a series of five songs filmed at Twickenham Film Studios on
November 23, 1965 by TV director Joe McGrath. All of these videos — "I
Feel Fine", "Ticket To Ride", "Help!", "Day
Tripper", and "We Can Work It out" — are included on the first video
disc in this package. There are also four alternate takes featured on Disc 2.
Some of the songs are done conventionally, with the band on stage miming to the
record. On some of the songs, however, McGrath experiments with more creative
ideas — the group miming to the music, but using props, and constructed sets.
This sort of miming — in which it is patently obvious that they are not
pretending to be actually playing the song (Ringo is riding a stationary
bicycle during one song, for example, instead of playing the drums) — can be
seen as the "great leap forward" in the "language" of pop-music
video. These nine videos are in black-and-white, but the image quality is very
good.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">But the first truly
excellent videos the Beatles prepared for TV were "Paperback Writer"
and "Rain" — the A and B sides of a single released in June, 1966. These
were filmed on May 20, 1966 using 35 mm colour at Chiswick House, in London, by
Michael Lindsay-Hogg. He would do more film-work for the band in '68 and '69.
"Paperback Writer" is on Disc 1; "Rain" appears on Disc 2.
Excellent picture quality.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_qb-ELpn1Mw11NKUh44aj85_NGZqzmhqEpnSFMd6oQ9RwzvX0YrTdj4uAWUesRGWg6XQxl3cRugckGmMfIc8G6aJ7W_X8HWrFwwssMcltMahbpIfE6zPgepMKyJdxSFXIHutsKi45FiM/s1600/maxresdefault.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_qb-ELpn1Mw11NKUh44aj85_NGZqzmhqEpnSFMd6oQ9RwzvX0YrTdj4uAWUesRGWg6XQxl3cRugckGmMfIc8G6aJ7W_X8HWrFwwssMcltMahbpIfE6zPgepMKyJdxSFXIHutsKi45FiM/s640/maxresdefault.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">"Paperback Writer" promo filmed at Chiswick House by Michael Lindsay-Hogg</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"All You Need Is
Love" was a performance filmed and broadcast live by BBC-TV for the first
ever multi-country satellite TV link-up, bringing together 25 TV networks from
around the world, and viewed by an audience estimated at 400 million on June
25, 1967. The vocals and orchestral playing was live, but the band pre-recorded
the basic music track. TV broadcasting in colour began in a limited way in
Britain (BBC 2) in July, 1967. Full colour service (including BBC 1 and ITV)
began in November. So "All You Need Is Love" was filmed and broadcast
originally in black-and-white. This video was colourized for the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Anthology</i> TV documentary in 1995, and
this is the version seen here.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The next videos of real
quality — "Penny Lane" and "Strawberry Fields Forever" — were
created by the Swedish TV director Peter Goldmann. He had been recommended to
the band by their Hamburg-based friend (and bass player) Klaus Voorman.
Goldmann filmed these two promos in 35 mm colour in early February, 1967. </span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The film he created for
"Strawberry Fields Forever" is particularly brilliant. It matches the
psychedelic feel of the music perfectly, full of random, surreal touches: slow-motion,
backwards, and jumpy footage; extreme close-ups; vibrant, often garrish colour;
and a mix of footage shot during both the day and at night. There is no miming
or pseudo-miming here; the song is the soundtrack for a strange and apparently
meaningless sequence of images — it's a perfect piece of psychedelia — and a
precursor of what music videos would be like in the not-too-distant future.
Again, the videos for the two sides of this single are divided between the two <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">1+</i> video discs.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizoNjmvWfE1BNuH1nKc2gvYi82TaySN7vvtHiXH1cvI0ttUvEXkOw4DRsSh5uQRhdVIL-pHo0-OH8INgCndk7-d22_IsICSo-GrnelSeqVIJbphAZA4aDyewCf5KLM0RL4PMVDSuRO0QY/s1600/52845006d406b736cad50e14d8bc3568.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizoNjmvWfE1BNuH1nKc2gvYi82TaySN7vvtHiXH1cvI0ttUvEXkOw4DRsSh5uQRhdVIL-pHo0-OH8INgCndk7-d22_IsICSo-GrnelSeqVIJbphAZA4aDyewCf5KLM0RL4PMVDSuRO0QY/s640/52845006d406b736cad50e14d8bc3568.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">A frame from Peter Goldmann's excellent promo for "Strawberry Fields Forever"</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Following the death of Brian
Epstein, Paul became <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">de facto</i> leader
of the band — it was he who would push them back into the studio, or come up
with new ideas for projects they hadn't tried before. The first major example
of this was the TV film <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Magical Mystery
Tour</i>, which they produced for Christmas 1967. Credited to the entire band,
the filming and post-production work (it took 11 weeks to edit the ten hours of
footage down to 52 minutes) was led primarily by Paul. </span><br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZGpEJ9g7PEFN8Tc_Vfgh-W6Qn0K_wa2OEupiAmTkkhWMS05_-oEJwM5hTvJ0kL4YtE5PaOn9I9I3z86FzftZwaW6uJuD3G9skS47GLxY9waECLutz1UmOWo1xHMm4MT8Uq8NlsP1AW_E/s1600/2015-11-19-1447899955-6203161-StillfromHelloGoodbye.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZGpEJ9g7PEFN8Tc_Vfgh-W6Qn0K_wa2OEupiAmTkkhWMS05_-oEJwM5hTvJ0kL4YtE5PaOn9I9I3z86FzftZwaW6uJuD3G9skS47GLxY9waECLutz1UmOWo1xHMm4MT8Uq8NlsP1AW_E/s640/2015-11-19-1447899955-6203161-StillfromHelloGoodbye.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">"Hello Goodbye" promo directed by McCartney</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">And at the end of that long
process, it was Paul who decided to direct the video for their next single, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Hello Goodbye</i>. It was filmed on the
stage of the Saville Theatre, London in November, 1967. It's probably the
least-interesting video — to accompany, perhaps, their least-interesting
single. The footage of them miming to the song alternates long, high shots of
the band from the back of the theatre, with close-ups done mostly from
stage-right (so that Paul is always in the foreground!). The "hey-la,
hey-lo-ah" reprise at the end features the incongruous sight of the Fab
Four in their Sgt. Pepper outfits surrounded by a dozen, or so, gyrating
hula-girls. The one nice touch, however, comes at the end — they are seen posing,
without instruments, in their old collarless suits. Trim suits from 1963; long
hair from 1967. Three different videos were created from this footage; the two
alternate takes are found on Disc 2.</span><br />
</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSEnubhlzQQ2NUgw2vyTFvesanyZc3h7ptjl12xCXm_4tdjFuWXm_GpTkNqb1mCdLr89EX7tdRIZrBDrI5WLV0QS6neSGBzsZaWbu08zGK1VRQhF-9efL2rUd3RtLO7on-pcPKeJHntn8/s1600/maxresdefault+12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="292" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSEnubhlzQQ2NUgw2vyTFvesanyZc3h7ptjl12xCXm_4tdjFuWXm_GpTkNqb1mCdLr89EX7tdRIZrBDrI5WLV0QS6neSGBzsZaWbu08zGK1VRQhF-9efL2rUd3RtLO7on-pcPKeJHntn8/s400/maxresdefault+12.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The next effort was much
better - created by someone who knew what he was doing. Commissioned by Apple
Films, TV cameraman Mike Molloy was invited into the studio to film The Beatles
in the process of recording "Lady Madonna". But when he arrived the
band were busy, instead, recording "Hey Bulldog" — a song that would
be used in the animated film Yellow Submarine. Molloy filmed extensively,
anyway, and he was able to match the footage he shot with the "Lady
Madonna" audio track. The vocals weren't synched, but the cutting of the
visuals managed to combine well with the momentum of the music track. This
promo was first aired on BBC's <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Top of the
Pops</i> on March 14th., 1968.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">During 1968 and 1969, The
Beatles came to rely on Michael Lindsay-Hogg to direct their videos. First came
"Hey Jude". It was filmed "live" at Twickenham Studios on
September 4th., 1968. They filmed a "live" performance because the
Musicians' Union in June, 1966 had secured a ban on pop singers and groups
miming to pre-recorded tracks on television. The Beatles managed to cheat their
way around this ban several times by pretending to do completely live
performances. But on "All You Need Is Love", back in 1967, and on
"Hey Jude", only the lead vocals are actually filmed live. The rest
of the band is miming to a pre-recorded backing track. "Hey Jude" was
first broadcast on TV on David Frost's latest television program, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Frost On Sunday</i>, on September 8th. — only
four days after it was filmed. </span></div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyF5nAYq8bfzB9DsPpo69bUzzw2L3yrsL2s0ByTT12pGXK_-QYruGMYsdiRu3kWg8DizqnrbRoTizE3Taj6r_rXafQu70GvbgSeQAu_nRXG-LY5XjEItDpHGe6Vh_00gODCDoKvB5HEX8/s1600/the_beatles_revolution.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyF5nAYq8bfzB9DsPpo69bUzzw2L3yrsL2s0ByTT12pGXK_-QYruGMYsdiRu3kWg8DizqnrbRoTizE3Taj6r_rXafQu70GvbgSeQAu_nRXG-LY5XjEItDpHGe6Vh_00gODCDoKvB5HEX8/s640/the_beatles_revolution.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">"Revolution" promo filmed live by Michael Lindsay-Hogg</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The B-side of the "Hey
Jude" single was "Revolution". Lindsay-Hogg filmed a live
performance of this at Twickenham Film Studios on the same day as they did
"Hey Jude". "Revolution" is included on the second DVD and
Blu-ray disc, along with alternate takes of David Frost's introduction and
"Hey Jude".</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The promo for "Get
Back" was a careful edit of three separate performances on the roof of the
band's Apple headquarters at Savile Row in London. Lindsay-Hogg had been
filming a documentary of the band at Twickenham Studios in January, 1969 (it
would later be released as <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Let It Be</i>
in late-May, 1970). The whole environment at Twickenham had been awful. To
complete the project on a higher note, the band invited Billy Preston to join
them on keyboards whilst they did some recording at the Apple building on
Savile Row. On January 30th., they played live for about 45 minutes on the roof
(about half of the footage was included in the final edit of the film). And
then they filmed some live performances in their newly-built recording studio
in the basement. The familiar promos for "Get Back", "Let It
Be" and "The Long and Winding Road" were created from the
footage filmed on these two days. The version of "Let It Be" seen in <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">1+</i> is actually reconstructed from the original
footage used in the documentary film. The version of "The Long and Winding
Road" seen on the first DVD or Blu-ray disc is the simple band arrangement
of the song, without the overblown "wall-of-sound" orchestration that
Phil Spector added later to the original track, when he was producing the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Let It Be</i> album.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCJF4Nx-C1kAV9sasKsYWpoy0hLh9We82-9iRy2or-2d5KmFdPTFnJ4dfr5yN7AjsCpm7vLAu_3S570PqCLRfCGjHD-MzeAufPgt9bzktOI1N7mrLHswW69xklCFT53ruEYEjN-VGZ9CE/s1600/beatles-08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCJF4Nx-C1kAV9sasKsYWpoy0hLh9We82-9iRy2or-2d5KmFdPTFnJ4dfr5yN7AjsCpm7vLAu_3S570PqCLRfCGjHD-MzeAufPgt9bzktOI1N7mrLHswW69xklCFT53ruEYEjN-VGZ9CE/s640/beatles-08.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">"Get Back" filmed by Lindsay-Hogg on the roof of the Savile Row building</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In addition to the work of
Michael Lindsay-Hogg in 1968-1969, Apple Corps also commissioned — through its
own entity Apple Films — film-makers to put together promos for "The
Ballad of John and Yoko" and "Something". "The Ballad
..." includes out-takes from the Let It Be film and private footage shot
of John and Yoko in Amsterdam, London, Vienna, and Paris (dating from
January-April, 1969). The footage for "Something" featured all four
Beatles filmed separately with their wives: John and Yoko at their Tittenhurst
Park mansion in Ascot; Paul and Linda at their farm on the Mull of Kintyre;
George and Patti (she was the subject of George's love-song) at their
"Kinfauns" bungalow in Esher, Surrey; and Ringo and Maureen at their
"Brookfield" house in Elstead, Surrey. This promo was only shown once
on British TV — in early November, 1969 on <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Top
of the Pops</i>.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">So much for the contemporaneous
music videos ("promos"), which were released to TV stations around
the world during the band's career. Now it's time to consider the wealth of
other video and film material included in the "music videos" found on
these two discs. Of course, it's this other stuff that would probably be of
particular interest to avid Beatles' fans, rather than the overly-familiar
material I've been discussing so far (well, most of it, at least).</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0gb2NCD_mVAgYoluhQ37APNi07LG0Rry_LfhbAzJcN7Z6Vu_X1k1hbGEfZb_HPQoFICoiAM89rNdWy90SKrBouiS5N7oh_nTFLlkI_daMZ6pE90Z96Pyao7-Q0bHLrbYZIs88m1Iv4A8/s1600/A1VR5MaZT0L._SL1500_.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="632" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0gb2NCD_mVAgYoluhQ37APNi07LG0Rry_LfhbAzJcN7Z6Vu_X1k1hbGEfZb_HPQoFICoiAM89rNdWy90SKrBouiS5N7oh_nTFLlkI_daMZ6pE90Z96Pyao7-Q0bHLrbYZIs88m1Iv4A8/s640/A1VR5MaZT0L._SL1500_.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">An early TV appearance for Granada TV in Manchester</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Both discs include complete "performances"
from early television broadcasts. Some of these, however, show the band miming
to the single: "Twist and Shout" at Granada TV in Manchester in
August 1963 (with John in an unfamiliar stance, on the left side of the stage),
"I Want to Hold Your Hand" filmed again at the Granada TV Centre in
Manchester, in late-November, 1963 (showing both George and John "playing"
acoustic Gibson guitars on a track that obviously features electric guitars!);
"Can't Buy Me Love" on ITV's <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Around
The Beatles</i> in April 1964 (George and John shown with their Rickenbacker electric
guitars this time, but the cameraman focuses mostly on John, even though it's a
double-tracked lead vocal by Paul on this single — who would have noticed, or
cared about, such details back then!); and alternate takes of "Paperback
Writer" and "Rain" filmed by Michael Lindsay-Hogg in May, 1966
at Studio 1, Abbey Road studio especially for the "Ed Sullivan Show" (these
TV show-quality videos are far inferior to the 35 mm films Lindsay-Hogg shot the
next day at Chiswick House).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Much more interesting, of
course, are the real live performances: "From Me To You" performed at
the Royal Variety Performance (November, 1963); "She Loves You" on
SVT's <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Drop In</i> program in Sweden (also
November, 1963); "Please Please Me" from the band's first appearance
on the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Ed Sullivan Show</i> (February,
1964); "A Hard Day's Night" on stage in Paris for RDTF's <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Les Beatles</i> TV show (June, 1965); and
"Yesterday" on the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Ed Sullivan
Show</i> in August, 1965), with Paul singing live to a pre-recorded backing
track of three violins.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmvXaOJyTdfsgrkinSCaucX_6_HYuz9FIckdeBrrchX2iAPpIzi62CmwgIp7GUcsq98OewIST0NMdhYGrooMMxFUd4VDCSyBlhv2-1hDd21J5aa6qnhWYL8dBBfmb2DHCQsl-lnfqA3yQ/s1600/beatles-290-the-beatles-rehearsing-for-their-royal-variety-performance-november-1963.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="638" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmvXaOJyTdfsgrkinSCaucX_6_HYuz9FIckdeBrrchX2iAPpIzi62CmwgIp7GUcsq98OewIST0NMdhYGrooMMxFUd4VDCSyBlhv2-1hDd21J5aa6qnhWYL8dBBfmb2DHCQsl-lnfqA3yQ/s640/beatles-290-the-beatles-rehearsing-for-their-royal-variety-performance-november-1963.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Rehearsing for the Royal Command Performance in November 1963</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">And then there are "new"
music videos, which use the original recordings and match them to
contemporaneous film footage. There is some precious material included in these
kinds of videos. "Love Me Do" shows Brian Epstein at work in the
Record Department of his family's NEMS store in Liverpool and some candid
footage of the Beatles on the Mersey Ferry. "Baby It's You" includes footage
of The Beatles recording for BBC Radio, and then emerging from the BBC's Paris
Theatre (it's the theatre front pictured on the cover of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Live at the BBC</i>). This brief 8 mm footage in front of the Paris Theatre
(on Lower Regent Street in London) was filmed on April, 1963 by Kevin Neill,
the guitarist of the Karl Denver Trio, who were performing on the same bill.
This footage is shown in the original black-and-white and, then, in a colourized
version. At the end of it we see The Beatles driven off in their
"road-van". "Words of Love" includes various candid film
clips of the band on their travels throughout 1963. Surreal, doodle-like
animated effects have been added to the black-and-white footage. "Eight
Days A Week" features a new video montage of material filmed around the
historic Shea Stadium concert on August 15, 1965, in front of 55,000 screaming
fans.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">There is more. "Yellow
Submarine" and "Eleanor Rigby" — featured on Disc 1 — were
released together originally as a double A-sided single in August 1966. The
videos here consist of material from the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Yellow
Submarine</i> animated film, which was directed by George Dunning and released
in 1968. The "Yellow Submarine" video is a new edit of material from
the film; "Eleanor Rigby" uses an original sequence.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnseKVfIpM40mMif8_AVBtQjvyompwD900ZGHJYeVpVycNH1GVxXW0QhvxBjqIBHAFuj38LvAmLqh-KLugxga5aZc9FsnKLvrBbu00HMT1yEiB-BnWPCYQsx6D4efwoN6C7qwqIzySPhE/s1600/maxresdefault+8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnseKVfIpM40mMif8_AVBtQjvyompwD900ZGHJYeVpVycNH1GVxXW0QhvxBjqIBHAFuj38LvAmLqh-KLugxga5aZc9FsnKLvrBbu00HMT1yEiB-BnWPCYQsx6D4efwoN6C7qwqIzySPhE/s640/maxresdefault+8.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">"Within You Without You/Tomorrow Never Knows" mash-up for <i>Love</i></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The audio track for "Within
You Without You/Tomorrow Never Knows" is an interesting mash-up of tracks
from two different albums: the former is from <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band</i>; the latter from <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Revolver</i>. They were re-edited together
by George and Giles Martin as a piece for the Cirque du Soleil show<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> Love</i>. The animated film was directed by
Simon Hilton, using material from the Apple archives: specifically, he uses
footage from "Rain", "Strawberry Fields Forever", "Penny
Lane", "Blue Jay Way", "Fool on the Hill", "Hello
Goodbye", "I Am the Walrus", and "All You Need is
Love". Some very appropriate titles, there, for this very psychedelic
track, found on Disc 2. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl_bmwmQkEtCYe4uCUoJA56pMQMzWbkv4BGdJL7r9DcvK9s_JGgBlTo3NTfGUyoeEwPKwRTXpitp_Nu-2t8wL6DP-BVmKchjaxDl2roZk777YjL9no94sX29K0RHGStnkodj_RPkb9xHw/s1600/Ayk9y9fCMAErZEg.jpg+large.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="448" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl_bmwmQkEtCYe4uCUoJA56pMQMzWbkv4BGdJL7r9DcvK9s_JGgBlTo3NTfGUyoeEwPKwRTXpitp_Nu-2t8wL6DP-BVmKchjaxDl2roZk777YjL9no94sX29K0RHGStnkodj_RPkb9xHw/s640/Ayk9y9fCMAErZEg.jpg+large.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Frames from the "Hey Bulldog"/"Lady Madonna" promos (filmed by Mike Molloy)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"Hey Bulldog" was
a track The Beatles recorded for inclusion in the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Yellow Submarine</i> film. As I mentioned earlier, the band was working
on that song in the studio in mid-February, 1968 when Mike Molloy came in to
film footage for a "Lady Madonna" promo. Wrong song! But Molloy was
able to match the footage he shot with the "Lady Madonna" track. When
Yellow Submarine was restored in 1999 for global distribution, an animated
sequence for "Hey Bulldog" (left out of the original American release
of the film) was included. At the same time, Molloy's original footage was put
back together and re-edited. This great R&B-inflected rocker is the best
song from the film — even though it was done as a bit of a throw-away. And this
video is significant because it was one of the few times they allowed
themselves to be extensively filmed whilst recording a finished track. It also
shows John and Paul having a whale of a time in the recording studio — just
before the rot started to set in. This video is on Disc 2.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_SVUkEgJ9F055r4ow-WUhUSoFdoBFJmExZV_eC-pxmgN5UpVlTdyLdXlLmB45b3_ls6XRupxs9mGRXi0F_i4mPN3qNG9VabLU5Aie1HqWkvSXDjw04GdDV8tHtz80JqFXuPcykCGq3Ro/s1600/264cRingoStarrGenesisPublications.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_SVUkEgJ9F055r4ow-WUhUSoFdoBFJmExZV_eC-pxmgN5UpVlTdyLdXlLmB45b3_ls6XRupxs9mGRXi0F_i4mPN3qNG9VabLU5Aie1HqWkvSXDjw04GdDV8tHtz80JqFXuPcykCGq3Ro/s640/264cRingoStarrGenesisPublications.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">"Do you know any more ...", ad-libbing at the coda of "Hey Bulldog" (filmed live)</span> </td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The video created to accompany
"A Day in the Life" was directed by The Beatles and produced by Subafilms.
The footage was shot in Studio One at Abbey Road on February 10, 1967 — the day
that 40 orchestral musicians were brought in to record the two frenetic
climaxes that occur in the middle and end of this amazing piece. This video is
quite an achievement in itself, capturing the heady, disturbing quality of the
song. "A Day in the Life" was banned by the BBC (because of its drug
references) so this innovative and creative little film — a unique document of
a ground-breaking track — never saw the light of day in that amazing year. You
can find it now, however, on Disc 2. Better late than never!</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGfJuBM4OCTY39GWzH5hwL3v2MInbZz0by6R5aqVIuvRk75GzXohjIIdxmvV_okdar1Mt578YldsuJ-nKP5mTynacD8gYbKf71AkXkhOPCeLky5Qbqj1NEM7LfxlAD8DgCztNMkUFmSik/s1600/beatles.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGfJuBM4OCTY39GWzH5hwL3v2MInbZz0by6R5aqVIuvRk75GzXohjIIdxmvV_okdar1Mt578YldsuJ-nKP5mTynacD8gYbKf71AkXkhOPCeLky5Qbqj1NEM7LfxlAD8DgCztNMkUFmSik/s640/beatles.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Orchestra members for the recording of "A Day in the Life" climax</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The video clip for "Come
Together" on Disc 2 was created in 2000 for the launch of The Beatles official
website thebeatles.com and the first release of the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">1</i> album. It was created by Melon Dezign. High quality video wasn't
available on the internet yet, because of the limitations of the 56k
connection-speed. This is the first time the video can be seen in all its
glory.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-yucjodsc32ezTy5WQ1_g8i7u7CiA2gQk1YLuqMUXF2z_5jNIl5IYYrXPGtl6avVwGJjVv50GJTK3Wmk1pVe3QipiUOnTYXj1Mj3lhaNb6Rt-mzEgRArHb1DU534bCL4Tr2TZqmlglrQ/s1600/cometogether.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-yucjodsc32ezTy5WQ1_g8i7u7CiA2gQk1YLuqMUXF2z_5jNIl5IYYrXPGtl6avVwGJjVv50GJTK3Wmk1pVe3QipiUOnTYXj1Mj3lhaNb6Rt-mzEgRArHb1DU534bCL4Tr2TZqmlglrQ/s640/cometogether.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">"Come Together" animated video from 2000 by Melon Dezign</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Disc 2 concludes with the
two special videos created for the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Anthology</i>
CD sets. Both songs were John Lennon home-recordings, with very low-fidelity sound.
Yoko Ono gave the tracks to Paul, George and Ringo, so that they could improve
the sound and overdub parts — creating two new Beatles recordings. "Free
As a Bird" was recorded by John in about 1977. The re-edit was done in
February and March of 1994 for <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Anthology
1</i>. The incredible video was directed by Joe Pytka. It aims to create a
birds-eye view of Beatles locations (especially Liverpool), making visual
reference to two or three dozen Beatles songs. It won a Grammy Award for Best
Short Form Music Video in 1997. "Real Love" was recorded by Lennon some
time in 1979. It was re-edited for <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Anthology
2</i> in February 1995. The accompanying video was directed by Kevin Godley and
Geoff Wonfor. It combines footage of the three remaining Beatles overdubbing
their parts onto Lennon's home-recording with archive footage of the group, and
footage Wonfor filmed in 1995. Jeff Lynne produced these final two tracks.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">All of the video and film
footage in this package has been painstakingly restored to their original,
pristine condition — under the supervision of Mark Bonnici and Graham Jones. Faded
colour has been restored. Dirt, blemishes and spots have been removed. Long scratches,
cracks, and breaks in the film have been repaired. Some of this visual material
looks better now than it ever has — thanks to being transferred to a
high-definition format. Not surprisingly, the restored 35 mm colour film is
tremendous! You may have seen a lot of this stuff before, but in its restored,
high-definition, Blu-ray format, it cannot fail to impress.</span></div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/zh8iGntPpjU/0.jpg" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/zh8iGntPpjU?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;"> 1st of 5 promos for <i>1+</i> available on YouTube</span></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The
Bottom-Line</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Well, here we have another
major Beatles release. I<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">s it</span> worth adding to your collection? As always, of
course, that depends: it depends on how much of this material you already have;
it depends on your level of commitment to the band; and it depends on how much
disposable income you have.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">If you've got the music
already — in one recorded format or another — the single audio CD is not worth
the added investment. Yes, the re-mixing and re-mastering makes the music sound
marginally better than ever. But that's no reason to buy it all over again.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj66OSRUevM-uJ5s1mDXZjh2ms7tlv_zIEujXAlVVTXSZufczyGfCrBHwiaEF-viOkQ6qfQi5EK8Ue7ON_Kg-YHR49THva1Beq0xw0TMLgKWobuwXh6o_V9gLtYwuk06p0pUw4RPHEM1zw/s1600/ComeTogether+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj66OSRUevM-uJ5s1mDXZjh2ms7tlv_zIEujXAlVVTXSZufczyGfCrBHwiaEF-viOkQ6qfQi5EK8Ue7ON_Kg-YHR49THva1Beq0xw0TMLgKWobuwXh6o_V9gLtYwuk06p0pUw4RPHEM1zw/s400/ComeTogether+3.jpg" width="263" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">It's the videos that make
this product attractive to the ardent Beatles' fan. Of course, some of those
videos are overly-familiar and not that interesting — they've probably worn out
their welcome: "Penny Lane", "All You Need Is Love",
"Hello Goodbye", "Hey Jude", "Let It Be". But
there are others that are tremendous — any serious fan would want to have these
high-quality versions of them: "Paperback Writer", "Rain",
Strawberry Fields Forever", "A Day in the Life", "Hey
Bulldog", "Get Back", "Don't Let Me Down".</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">And there is a lot of candid
footage shot in the early years (1963 seems to be particularly well-represented)
that will thrill the older fan. We get glimpses of Beatlemania in both the UK
and The USA, and a sense of the incredibly chaotic daily life the Fab Four had
to endure at the peak of the madness (1963-1965).</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Is the single DVD or Blu-ray
disc enough? The one which has the videos that accompany the songs on the
original <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">1</i> album? Not for me. Several
of the very best videos are on the second disc. What's the point, I ask you, if
you don't have the restored video for "Strawberry Fields Forever" or
"A Day in the Life" or "Hey Bulldog"?</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxelTcTGs3gZs5ooKu-9EUcvqin-80fHMG3qyY0Ppv6Bnuzs0CTirGkMV-kIxn6n2imumF7TnW10GCw7gfgmiqjO1frrxgdleV0TgXfKnWtOSEFN8YFglgsxiApcDmnBBT1x5I4tHwxMw/s1600/Beatles_Videos1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="498" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxelTcTGs3gZs5ooKu-9EUcvqin-80fHMG3qyY0Ppv6Bnuzs0CTirGkMV-kIxn6n2imumF7TnW10GCw7gfgmiqjO1frrxgdleV0TgXfKnWtOSEFN8YFglgsxiApcDmnBBT1x5I4tHwxMw/s640/Beatles_Videos1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">By the time The Beatles were
engaged in some of their most creative and innovative recordings and videos,
they had left live performing behind. Some may wonder how good they really were
as a live band. This collection may go a long way in answering that question. Of
the 50 tracks on the double-disc collection, there are 13 live performances —
on stage or recorded for broadcast on TV or the "wireless" (radio).
The evidence shows they were incredibly tight. Why not? They had been
performing nearly every day of the week for four years.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Is the product worth the
money? Well, the audio and video is of the highest quality. And Apple Corp has
always been an honest and reliable purveyor of Beatles' material. They don't
flood the market with pointless re-issues and shoddy product. Everything they
produce is done with care and attention to detail.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Take this particular release
as an example. The double Blu-ray version comes with a 124-page full-colour booklet.
Each of the 50 tracks on the two discs gets a double-page spread — including a photograph,
a brief essay about the music and the film (or video) footage, details about
the recordings and filming (dates, locations, releases, directors, companies,
stations, etc.). Everything the discriminating fan or historian might want. </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">And for a few videos on each disc there are brief introductions by Ringo
and commentaries throughout by Paul. </span></div>
<br />
<br />
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">So, there you have it. Are
you ready now to make that decision?! Buy or not to buy? And in which
particular iteration? I think I made the right decision myself. This is the
definitive "music video" collection of Beatles' music. Enjoy.</span></div>
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Clive Baughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10523779808271053053noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8282904905780175338.post-16796290361238455642015-12-16T20:16:00.000-05:002016-02-29T00:07:07.202-05:00Photo Essay: Preparing Boeuf Bourguignon<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn8X8TMdYAhIzaXXZj-p1Mjf7TOOrXMnVbO9fY7Q_GOABNuxEb1pFyLDmkfmrddRPjmB4ucnehGScUJSw3hb902jNYWzYvTyxmSAR6jcqZaRpcpwNPm89lLyo-xqTovSuiDx3bjmj4FKQ/s1600/DSC_5281.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn8X8TMdYAhIzaXXZj-p1Mjf7TOOrXMnVbO9fY7Q_GOABNuxEb1pFyLDmkfmrddRPjmB4ucnehGScUJSw3hb902jNYWzYvTyxmSAR6jcqZaRpcpwNPm89lLyo-xqTovSuiDx3bjmj4FKQ/s640/DSC_5281.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The ingredients of a Boeuf Bourguignon (for 6 people)</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br />
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 20.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></i></div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">For a complete change of
pace, I thought I'd create a photo essay of my favourite recipe: <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">boeuf bourguignon</i> (beef burgundy). It
was fun working on the recipe in my kitchen and stopping every ten minutes, or
so, to take several photographs of each step in the process. I set the camera
on a tripod and used its time-delay function. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">My first experience of this wonderful
dish was in the early '80s. My good friend Dave was doing post-doctoral
research in Strasbourg, France. He prepared it one evening during my visit
there. It was fun watching him so fully engaged in the long and involved procedure.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR8UpYpL5w3FRWbdUcWV2tJhykGjeV9F_oNo8_gv2B_jG3DxMsQiSvdU42vcTbtsPiU2KpCkDQikpiyu8p84r138hX_BwOstY5k19g64ClSAp9VEvIeEGHo4ylZ_p9oID6bBh4iJ6ew2Q/s1600/938372-julia-child.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR8UpYpL5w3FRWbdUcWV2tJhykGjeV9F_oNo8_gv2B_jG3DxMsQiSvdU42vcTbtsPiU2KpCkDQikpiyu8p84r138hX_BwOstY5k19g64ClSAp9VEvIeEGHo4ylZ_p9oID6bBh4iJ6ew2Q/s320/938372-julia-child.jpg" width="218" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Julia Child — <i>The French Chef</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I started making this dish myself
many years ago, refining the process over time. I use Julia Child's basic
recipe — using just about all of her list of ingredients, but simplifying the
process slightly.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Boeuf
bourguignon</span></i><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> is a stew. The beef is braised slowly in red
wine, or in a red wine-beef broth mixture. The stew is flavoured with onion,
garlic, thyme and bay leaves. Pearl onions, mushroom and lardons are added about
two-thirds of the way through the cooking-time. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This stew is basic peasant
food — probably used most often as a method of dealing with overly-tough hunks
of beef. As time passed it was refined into French haute cuisine. The recipe
most people use today — including Julia Child, in her classic collection of
French recipes, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Mastering the Art of
French Cooking</i> (1961) — was first described by the great French cook,
restaurateur, and writer Auguste Escoffier [1846-1935].</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHManknpr7ANSgCITkTsQi3aaKA6skZ684sStFZrLvVQTUPxRF0xLunwZ9bZsNCZcrVgIvclYnAuGZUoocd6u3kepzZ9LlsLl3qSfzNivF4M4xE3M5EFsJygJun5GgltHKRk9mq_NZkyw/s1600/img_1024.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHManknpr7ANSgCITkTsQi3aaKA6skZ684sStFZrLvVQTUPxRF0xLunwZ9bZsNCZcrVgIvclYnAuGZUoocd6u3kepzZ9LlsLl3qSfzNivF4M4xE3M5EFsJygJun5GgltHKRk9mq_NZkyw/s320/img_1024.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Auguste Escoffier</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">But as Julia Child points
out, there is more than one way to arrive at a good <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">bo<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">eu</span>f bourguignon</i>. Regardless of the details, and despite any deviations
from Escoffier's basic concept, Child describes <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">boeuf bourguignon</i> as "certainly one of the most delicious beef
dishes concocted by man." She also points out that it is one of those
meals that can be prepared ahead of time — even a day in advance — because it
only gains in flavour when it is reheated. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">If you've never prepared a <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">bo<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">eu</span>f bourguignon</i> before, give this a
try. It's one of those recipes that takes several hours (a minimum of about
four hours, I reckon) — I usually do it on a Saturday or Sunday afternoon. The result
is sublime, making the long process well worth the effort!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Ingredients
(for 6 people)</span></u></b><br />
<br />
<br /></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">2 lbs (900 g) of stewing beef (chuck steak) in pieces</span></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">3 tablespoons of olive oil</span></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">1-2 medium onions (sliced)</span></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">2 heaped tablespoons of plain flour</span></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">15 fl oz (425 ml) red Burgundy wine</span></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">8</span> fl oz (<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">200</span> ml) beef stock</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">2 cloves of garlic </span></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">2 sprigs of fresh thyme</span></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">1 large bay leaf</span></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">12 oz (350 g) pearl onions</span></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">8 oz (225 g) smoked bacon (bought as a piece)</span></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">4 oz (110 g) mushrooms (I use portabello)</span></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">salt
and pepper</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Process</span></u></b></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></u></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">1. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Put 2-3 tablespoons of olive oil into a frying
pan. Heat at medium temperature.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq6piMLkaWkC4shi70X1JIGzdwTPq7JLc1N9LHyo6PBpo-MW-0BU3IiMwPdhQD2b2KBc66UScsu03jKxHtQ_SSXvYkjJzZM5QvMwOqm5U9DcZ25ANY8RDTjVCJUxsJLIPQwrYu8J7sIfk/s1600/DSC_5319.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="257" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq6piMLkaWkC4shi70X1JIGzdwTPq7JLc1N9LHyo6PBpo-MW-0BU3IiMwPdhQD2b2KBc66UScsu03jKxHtQ_SSXvYkjJzZM5QvMwOqm5U9DcZ25ANY8RDTjVCJUxsJLIPQwrYu8J7sIfk/s400/DSC_5319.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">2. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Add the pieces of beef to the hot oil in the
frying pan. You'll probably have to do this in two or three batches. You may
need to add a bit more oil for the final batch.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIv6U5v0v8rbIaROdMZ4ETyWvPIiSYFt32n8-WdYMPy_sDL3nkDhqAGUQeTNyALp1LOkW4To4bX8fDKGNYTwzYAOVqCe-jrRwEKYzb-EBolSTmobJPJWb7lCQBa8Z8kkcQ2Pknbd_hyb4/s1600/DSC_5332.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="336" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIv6U5v0v8rbIaROdMZ4ETyWvPIiSYFt32n8-WdYMPy_sDL3nkDhqAGUQeTNyALp1LOkW4To4bX8fDKGNYTwzYAOVqCe-jrRwEKYzb-EBolSTmobJPJWb7lCQBa8Z8kkcQ2Pknbd_hyb4/s640/DSC_5332.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">3. Sear one side of the pieces
of beef at a medium-high temperature until they are dark brown. Turn the pieces of
beef over with a fork, in order to do the other side.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">4.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When each batch of beef is seared in the
frying pan, remove it and place the beef on a plate that has some paper towels
on top. The paper is there to absorb the excess oil on the cooked beef.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFqQw8AAkG2hyphenhyphenZ5UjhtKpDUf51MOb4SPa3N3_w9_HJVsGeV1oTao1o07aglk_Ea7wJBe0Op_rQ2PAw7LbQzNgXx4DqScp0MkKezUhZ7osCV_xbwNHL8f2Y1zrwo4pmc-4oJLp0PrVuaZI/s1600/DSC_5355.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="432" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFqQw8AAkG2hyphenhyphenZ5UjhtKpDUf51MOb4SPa3N3_w9_HJVsGeV1oTao1o07aglk_Ea7wJBe0Op_rQ2PAw7LbQzNgXx4DqScp0MkKezUhZ7osCV_xbwNHL8f2Y1zrwo4pmc-4oJLp0PrVuaZI/s640/DSC_5355.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Roll the seared beef in plain flour — it will help thicken the broth</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">5.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When all the beef is seared, roll the pieces
around in a bowl, or on a plate that contains the flour. Bang each piece of
beef on the plate, in order to remove excess flour. The flour coating will thicken
the broth as the stew cooks. Put the beef into a large casserole.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">6.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Put the sliced onion into the frying pan with
the remainder of the browned oil used to sear the beef. Add a bit of oil if
necessary. Fry the onion gently at medium heat for a couple of minutes, until
it is soft. Add the cooked onion to the beef in the casserole.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_PNiJNtRjXHYeZxnfcZ7kmjjUn4BU6_CI_LBWkIXil9S9AB5gWTRdE4gXAKIwtpH-9MLA7PGq9nSwetaY0XYy42q2wow5THb9WEUOf29ejOl8bOh4JY5oRtY62gAXfQOr0l6pp6EH-94/s1600/DSC_5340.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_PNiJNtRjXHYeZxnfcZ7kmjjUn4BU6_CI_LBWkIXil9S9AB5gWTRdE4gXAKIwtpH-9MLA7PGq9nSwetaY0XYy42q2wow5THb9WEUOf29ejOl8bOh4JY5oRtY62gAXfQOr0l6pp6EH-94/s400/DSC_5340.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">7.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Chop a couple of <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">cloves</span> of garlic into tiny
pieces and add to the casserole.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjorqeRuEtjhvbo-urpT7gCOJOUV0Y8VSu2PfUxBbLt33SNkjqv5tPAowyc2NFfcgd98GimkWPKDEQNq4Hfvm7p5Cie4xF2ICjpWxyH8ST-_siMp4Eo33uH7V3Lxk5pyQxWJ_epm5KUwjI/s1600/DSC_5310.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjorqeRuEtjhvbo-urpT7gCOJOUV0Y8VSu2PfUxBbLt33SNkjqv5tPAowyc2NFfcgd98GimkWPKDEQNq4Hfvm7p5Cie4xF2ICjpWxyH8ST-_siMp4Eo33uH7V3Lxk5pyQxWJ_epm5KUwjI/s640/DSC_5310.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">8.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Measure the red Burgundy wine into a
measuring cup, and then pour it into the casserole.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM509PfYtVgsXXyRD2vGzxoQKDaYsRDrM40-083Z91g-h2FT2-o1MKkefhdLFaGV_ZASXCSupxhzo302YX0-VazjRLrVPVA1Ka2w-BoZSCJgeuGMDGwJNyRq4NQ3P7Q-W57boP83K4BWw/s1600/DSC_5364.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="404" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM509PfYtVgsXXyRD2vGzxoQKDaYsRDrM40-083Z91g-h2FT2-o1MKkefhdLFaGV_ZASXCSupxhzo302YX0-VazjRLrVPVA1Ka2w-BoZSCJgeuGMDGwJNyRq4NQ3P7Q-W57boP83K4BWw/s640/DSC_5364.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf5s99XnuWZtaAqaxm4wYcb_lEW8MXuR2XAS9WkSwBZxHzjE78XMkUPMJtkZMMiyQCAmml-WSxG-kOi-HqWVAynEcwdoYSXcVmt9mNRahRLD1gHC_Kd7IjmPODuJdyyZAZJdVlrwkVfGk/s1600/DSC_5366.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="372" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf5s99XnuWZtaAqaxm4wYcb_lEW8MXuR2XAS9WkSwBZxHzjE78XMkUPMJtkZMMiyQCAmml-WSxG-kOi-HqWVAynEcwdoYSXcVmt9mNRahRLD1gHC_Kd7IjmPODuJdyyZAZJdVlrwkVfGk/s640/DSC_5366.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Use a good quality Burgundy — it will taste better! (and you can sip the leftovers)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">9.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Season the whole mixture with salt and
pepper.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">10.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Pour <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">200</span> ml of beef stock (<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">1</span> cup) into
the casserole. I use<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"> a </span>packet of dried beef stock mixture and add boiling water
to it. You could use the solid cubes, but the crumbled
stuff in the packets dissolves easier. Add the bay leaf and sprigs of thyme.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">11.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The pieces of beef in the casserole should be
completely covered. Add a bit of water, if necessary. As the meat cooks, you will want to check it every half-hour,
or so, to make sure that not too much of the liquid evaporates away. Add some
wine, stock, or water, in order to keep the meat well covered. Stir.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT0OwI5E-F1rMTUfYPEiwDzn-rgMgHHJ4FePde_7Iil53j4VJIMaH6jsved9yz8oc23LP6PZQRlUDQkIyJyC2-kEpHRQPDPEyADZFLkNxr2H4C4L4WayMv8NU2EnCI9iuLXVSsXDYFYs8/s1600/DSC_5384.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="416" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT0OwI5E-F1rMTUfYPEiwDzn-rgMgHHJ4FePde_7Iil53j4VJIMaH6jsved9yz8oc23LP6PZQRlUDQkIyJyC2-kEpHRQPDPEyADZFLkNxr2H4C4L4WayMv8NU2EnCI9iuLXVSsXDYFYs8/s640/DSC_5384.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">12. Put the lid on the<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"> </span>casserole and place it in the middle of an oven
that has been pre-heated to 450° F (230° C). Turn the oven down to 325</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">° F </span></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">(160</span>° C</span>) and <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">c</span></span>ook for 2 hours. [Wonderful
aromas will begin to pervade the kitchen after 30-45 minutes.] Take the lid off
the casserole and stir about once every 30 minutes.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">13.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Chop the smoked bacon into small cubes. I get my smoked bacon from the deli counter of the local supermarket.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcKaVFMYmt9px5wIj-e8TAY2EIYBx4SMOfZBLEibu9D3fAGFHnTF0qHjUWWRAYHItqE32Q8EDBsZt5sQaOZetgsZP3XVMt_yp6Gw9WF-PCjn370BvV5Ut7_fezijc-JNqoLEQmSty3Gss/s1600/DSC_5303.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="348" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcKaVFMYmt9px5wIj-e8TAY2EIYBx4SMOfZBLEibu9D3fAGFHnTF0qHjUWWRAYHItqE32Q8EDBsZt5sQaOZetgsZP3XVMt_yp6Gw9WF-PCjn370BvV5Ut7_fezijc-JNqoLEQmSty3Gss/s640/DSC_5303.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Buy the smoked bacon in one large piece — then chop it into small lardons.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">14.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Chop the ends off each pearl onion and peel
off the outer layer of skin. [If you know how to remove the skin-layer from the
pearl onions after par-boiling them, do that — it's easier!] The pearl onions I have found at my local supermarket can be white, yellow, or red. Any of those will do.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">15. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Fry the pearl onions and the small pieces of
bacon ("lardons") in a frying pan for about 3-5 minutes.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0agVJOU04PJYd3GwO-aBefc-ryktfjPDjxZls5qRgXuD0YLGtivzE7Yv4r_Jm9tuGNfovSpYxD7Z5XK-ExrRsGzOGGQ1UvSBbktvW0UtdoRIltZfOW3NmVCR-HIphEYd3GlmivXw6IOk/s1600/DSC_5415.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="416" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0agVJOU04PJYd3GwO-aBefc-ryktfjPDjxZls5qRgXuD0YLGtivzE7Yv4r_Jm9tuGNfovSpYxD7Z5XK-ExrRsGzOGGQ1UvSBbktvW0UtdoRIltZfOW3NmVCR-HIphEYd3GlmivXw6IOk/s640/DSC_5415.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">16.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Chop the mushrooms into small hunks — not too
small.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">17.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After two hours, remove the beef mixture from
the oven (use oven mitts!) and add the pearl onions, bacon and mushroom. At
this point you will probably need to top-up the liquid. Add about half a cup of
wine, some more beef stock, and a bit of water in order to have the contents of
the casserole covered in liquid. Season again with a little salt and pepper.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuTnwVFgultR0wTh4uSf8fpTh836wlQITrLhdm76VDSleKYr1mGK8X8pVRlIhN0snjRv84qYqi69kgCuqIz9H0VmwGbACzEOqyRB4nN5dmG-RS9ICD4s903dfT5BrtXqjIu4M3HEdjlYM/s1600/DSC_5430.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="398" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuTnwVFgultR0wTh4uSf8fpTh836wlQITrLhdm76VDSleKYr1mGK8X8pVRlIhN0snjRv84qYqi69kgCuqIz9H0VmwGbACzEOqyRB4nN5dmG-RS9ICD4s903dfT5BrtXqjIu4M3HEdjlYM/s640/DSC_5430.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">18.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Put the casserole back into the oven for
another hour (still at<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"> 160</span>° C — that's <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">325</span>° F).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">19.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Prepare <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">some</span> boiled potatoes and <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">steamed </span>green
beans and a green salad, etc. Drink some wine!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">19.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After the hour of cooking [that's three hours
total!], turn the oven off, remove the casserole, and let the stew cool for a
while before serving. [Remove the bay leaves and sprigs of thyme.]</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSiHBWA3gHGGExmKyrAC_mNLa9rxav8YjzhR0a3kTDUr46-vLTuk8m_4zMHjrfkHQsYF7X8fa-nwIljuZSaSlB5_52ok7c27mOWYsK0YTO0CtQ_rLD-t-avN8xkiL58glOtM3FBYe34tE/s1600/DSC_5434.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="472" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSiHBWA3gHGGExmKyrAC_mNLa9rxav8YjzhR0a3kTDUr46-vLTuk8m_4zMHjrfkHQsYF7X8fa-nwIljuZSaSlB5_52ok7c27mOWYsK0YTO0CtQ_rLD-t-avN8xkiL58glOtM3FBYe34tE/s640/DSC_5434.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The <i>boeuf bourguignon</i> — right out of the oven</span></td></tr>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">What
to Serve it With</span></u></b></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></u></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I think boeuf bourguignon
goes best with boiled potatoes and green beans (or peas). But egg-noodles, or
steamed rice, works instead of potatoes. Use small, new potatoes, if you can.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Slices of baguette is a good
accompaniment. I also serve a course of green salad. Keep it simple: lettuce,
radicchio, endive, and cucumber, perhaps — with a light vinaigrette dressing.</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOG5cw0vHCZRvFyBS-OQdRca06WawXHnUnh4aafigcdwEVKvE6Ft9L7222UctBTXV4nH5clCOORqzC1Iwfq9zyjj60AJr4myS_-TUBu4cESCI6Ue_YBkM_Myl86yiH8TKDSJAUMXWpr0Q/s1600/DSC_5441.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOG5cw0vHCZRvFyBS-OQdRca06WawXHnUnh4aafigcdwEVKvE6Ft9L7222UctBTXV4nH5clCOORqzC1Iwfq9zyjj60AJr4myS_-TUBu4cESCI6Ue_YBkM_Myl86yiH8TKDSJAUMXWpr0Q/s400/DSC_5441.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Begin with a simple green salad, whilst the stew cools</span></td></tr>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Wine
Recommendation</span></u></b></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></u></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The better the wine you cook
the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">bo<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">eu</span>f bourguignon</i> with, the
better the stew will taste! Since it's a "beef burgundy", I always
cook with a red Burgundy. Doh! But any good bottle of Pinot Noir wine will do
the trick.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Serve the meal with a
full-bodied young, red wine — such as Beaujolais, Côtes du Rhône, Bordeaux-St. Émilion,
or Burgundy.</span><br />
<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Enjoy. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Bon appetit!</i></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicGU7ndP8YFmpoXVm_bxt79mQH5PXYRNOcv6hyVec0PVnOfv7m7R3YY-rMfMqKneZubSYAxBWFGkrRJwO3pPPQ_alZhLhZGCbKTTdw5TMqyzPveK4GcPJhQ7_nCal4Fa-mR2YJk9xiQ5o/s1600/DSC_5352.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="516" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicGU7ndP8YFmpoXVm_bxt79mQH5PXYRNOcv6hyVec0PVnOfv7m7R3YY-rMfMqKneZubSYAxBWFGkrRJwO3pPPQ_alZhLhZGCbKTTdw5TMqyzPveK4GcPJhQ7_nCal4Fa-mR2YJk9xiQ5o/s640/DSC_5352.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">... and you can savor the Burgundy whilst you're preparing the meal!</span></td></tr>
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Clive Baughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10523779808271053053noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8282904905780175338.post-26211167486008446572015-12-11T23:24:00.000-05:002015-12-17T11:24:53.064-05:00Book Review: "Why Sinatra Matters" by Pete Hamill<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhGy_fMrQbWFQFxkfGOdsdGc1-i7HuVV2K0Fq81SbgO9dFtyfKnbyGK4x6R0VtDvmfvjoi7VeCkwJntS_ACG8y2b6ukk9GCCofdCgaPxhcSbQBp2WTbSWTxn9aGedDGDxPAOlCuZWqvwA/s1600/41f33xV8zBL._SX337_BO1%252C204%252C203%252C200_.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhGy_fMrQbWFQFxkfGOdsdGc1-i7HuVV2K0Fq81SbgO9dFtyfKnbyGK4x6R0VtDvmfvjoi7VeCkwJntS_ACG8y2b6ukk9GCCofdCgaPxhcSbQBp2WTbSWTxn9aGedDGDxPAOlCuZWqvwA/s400/41f33xV8zBL._SX337_BO1%252C204%252C203%252C200_.jpg" width="271" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The cover of Hamill's book</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Frank Sinatra was born on
December 12th., 1915 in Hoboken, New Jersey. Today would have been his
hundredth birthday — he died in May, 1998 at the age of 82. To mark the
centenary of Sinatra's birth, Little Brown and Company has re-released Pete Hamill's
excellent book <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Why Sinatra Matters</i>. Originally
released in November 1998 — just six months after the singer's death — the book
became an American bestseller. This new version, published in October, includes
a new introduction by the author in honour of Sinatra's centenary.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">It took me a long time to
appreciate the work of Frank Sinatra. When you're a kid you tend to be
narrow-minded in your musical appreciation. Sinatra was just uncool. Through
most of the 1960s (my teenage years) my love of pop music was focused on the British
"beat-groups". I knew a bit about the American rock-and-rollers who
had inspired bands like The Beatles, The Rolling Stones and The Who. But their
music was almost a decade-old; it sounded strange and dated to a youngster —
the popular music of a different generation. And as far as the swing-jazz and
crooning on the 40s went, well that was ancient stuff that only old people
could enjoy. </span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I did hear Sinatra quite
often on BBC Radio in the 60s — especially on request programmes like <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Two-Way Family Favourites</i> and <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Housewives' Choice</i>. BBC Radio and TV
back then really was "broadcasting"; granted, there were programmes
that focused on specific types of music, but on many shows you could expect to
hear all sorts of popular music. And Frank Sinatra was very popular ... with
the old folk!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWshF7GUgZtH-6OS87PgPJ6Asr_mGLVuy-EYNi4-pAIJKjhCP1unOEHZhYLglm6Hat1NVTgnI58_hNkK9v1XdTrcfr2xL3A36TCdEktyP6l_Cw53IzBII3j-D1BuHkB2HbAAYDSxplf3w/s1600/hqdefault.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWshF7GUgZtH-6OS87PgPJ6Asr_mGLVuy-EYNi4-pAIJKjhCP1unOEHZhYLglm6Hat1NVTgnI58_hNkK9v1XdTrcfr2xL3A36TCdEktyP6l_Cw53IzBII3j-D1BuHkB2HbAAYDSxplf3w/s400/hqdefault.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">"... Strangers in the night, exchanging glances ... "</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">But the few Sinatra songs
that did break through in that decade were not that impressive to my ears.
There was "Strangers in the Night" in 1966. It was a #1 hit — his
first in 11 years. But it sounded quite trite to me. It amazed me to learn much
later that Frank agreed. He actually thought that it was "a piece of shit
... the worst fucking song that I ever heard." Maybe that recording's "doo-be-doo-be
doo" coda wasn't playful scatting, <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">after all</span>; maybe it was a dig at the fatuousness
of the lyrics<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">?</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">And at the very end of the
decade <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">came</span> Sinatra's 1969 recording of "My Way" — originally a
French pop song, but now the tune was matched to a Paul Anka lyric. This was
even worse than "Strangers in the Night". Again, Frank agreed. Later
he would sometimes tell audiences, "I hate this song." Despite a
common misconception that the lyrics sum up nicely Sinatra's personal approach
to life, this bombastic song does not reflect the man's rather humble view of
his art — regardless of his often boorish behaviour. Until he had this song
pushed at him — against his be<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">tter</span> instincts — as the chance for a big hit, he
would not have dreamed of singing such a conceited hymn of self-celebration.</span><br />
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Yeah, I know, I didn't really hear much
of his stuff, but th<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">e</span> little that I did hear, I didn't like. Case closed. Ah, <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">t</span>he sure
arrogance of youth<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">!</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">And on into the 70s, Sinatra
and his Rat Pack buddies seemed to represent to us youngsters the worst sort of
reactionary Hollywood entertainers; they always seemed to be in a Las Vegas
casino — the <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">belly</span> of the beast. Misogynists, it seemed. Republicans for Nixon.
The worst kind of show-biz dinosaurs. Enemies of Woodstock Nation; the
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm87lsrlBc8xKO0DXymbnwUWddVeyss6olJSHtYo0MXMwvvmr6iE5EEZMLEUy3nCEPE8hC1CXGH_491MaLfcUGFHDE-JCAnhDe9G3fksKRRmHrytKgmxTxz2OjwpBRjBO2HkjG3BR-4LQ/s1600/elvis-sinatra.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="252" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm87lsrlBc8xKO0DXymbnwUWddVeyss6olJSHtYo0MXMwvvmr6iE5EEZMLEUy3nCEPE8hC1CXGH_491MaLfcUGFHDE-JCAnhDe9G3fksKRRmHrytKgmxTxz2OjwpBRjBO2HkjG3BR-4LQ/s640/elvis-sinatra.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Unlikely meeting of unlike minds: Frank and Elvis on TV together</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Oh, and then there was his
diatribe against rock-'n'-roll, sometime in the late 50s (before he started
singing Beatles songs in the late 60s): "Rock n Roll is the most brutal,
ugly, desperate, vicious form of expression it has been my misfortune to hear."
Not too cool for <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">the hordes of people</span> who happened to groove to the likes of Chuck Berry, Jerry Lee Lewis and Elvis.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">And so it went. Sinatra's
career went into a slow decline. He did some duet recordings with current pop
stars<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">. </span>And then he died in 1998.
Guess what song they played over and over <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">on the radio and T<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">V</span></span> obituaries<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">?</span>
Right ... "My Way".</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXOwWVDACinIOn8TSI0Lv1HGLVwPoisY3AcihB6CLUPQK0wvRuPaVuGaBaZT3jQ3ErjXKd4dlzhXlUenj2pXw8cKKrQo4phSzDr-Xv0RrRRNq1Mp0pPVn2FNJCZkQ3v4CR5UKquKlwZDA/s1600/maxresdefault.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXOwWVDACinIOn8TSI0Lv1HGLVwPoisY3AcihB6CLUPQK0wvRuPaVuGaBaZT3jQ3ErjXKd4dlzhXlUenj2pXw8cKKrQo4phSzDr-Xv0RrRRNq1Mp0pPVn2FNJCZkQ3v4CR5UKquKlwZDA/s320/maxresdefault.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Always well-dressed — the snazzy Frank, invariably in a hat</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">But <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">a</span>bout five years after Frank
died I started to listen to a lot more jazz and jazz singers: Louis Armstrong, Billie Holiday, Ella Fitzgerald,
Sarah Vaughan. I was hearing more and more about Sinatra's Capitol recordings
of the 1950s, mostly arranged and conducted by Nelson Riddle. These were the
fruits, I read, of his great comeback. He was thought to be dead-and-gone as a
popular entertainer by the late-40s. Then he won an academy award for his role
in the film <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">From Here to Eternity</i> in
1953. And late that same year he began a long series of successful collaborations with
Nelson Riddle.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The first album of theirs I
dipped into was <i>In the Wee Small Hours</i> (1955). What a revelation
that was. A superb album. I would listen to the whole thing over and over on my
long commutes to and from work. A wonderful set of songs that were beautifully
arranged and impeccably sung. This was not the Frank Sinatra I was familiar
with. Not the man I thought I knew. Perhaps it was the languor of its approach
— its elegiac mood, its melancholic tone. By this time in the mid-50s Frank was
no longer the pop idol of hysterical "bobby soxers", he was now, apparently, the spokesman
for middle-aged male sentimentality<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">!</span> He still had that magic vocal technique,
but it was now employed on more interesting, more mature material. Within a couple of years I had most of Sinatra's 1<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">950s albums in my collection!</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkvpjr-VwVEz1vf8VH2q_CHt2XGVVhrVhx03-4Qi8WcW98zlEKYBK40mUnGXL33A1bc1eFqlcIfOcivtO_JiXrKcGGKkiYJDHU7jooeWvFlIznWZxOjbqywQZ8ihyphenhyphencahQWebLOukuxU88/s1600/29906170001_4652490544001_SINATRA.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkvpjr-VwVEz1vf8VH2q_CHt2XGVVhrVhx03-4Qi8WcW98zlEKYBK40mUnGXL33A1bc1eFqlcIfOcivtO_JiXrKcGGKkiYJDHU7jooeWvFlIznWZxOjbqywQZ8ihyphenhyphencahQWebLOukuxU88/s640/29906170001_4652490544001_SINATRA.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Hamill's book — <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Why Sinatra Matters</i> — is not a straight
biography. It <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">is </i>organised chronologically:
following some introductory material — which includes a reminiscence of an
evening Hamill spent in 1970 with Sinatra in a New York saloon — this small
book then proceeds with five chapters charting his career chronologically by
focusing on one important element of the story in each chapter. It's an Interesting
technique — the story moves thematically and chronologically at the same time. The
book tells you a lot about Frank's life, but biographical detail is not the
point — <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Why Sinatra Matters</i> is really
an extended rumination on how the key facts of Sinatra's life made him who he
was as both a personality and a performing artist.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Chapter 2, for example,
deals with the bigotry Sinatra faced because of his Italian-American ancestry.
His grandmother's family, the Garaventes, came from Genoa. His grandfather's
family, the Sinatras hailed from a village near Palermo in Sicily. These
grandparents immigrated to the U.S. in the 1890s with two young children who
would eventually meet in Hoboken, get married, and parent Francis Albert
"Frank" Sinatra. </span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvQR1ReW60eiu75iZMQavhcEYtBj8RThI_yDEQQ2emZdABnKMd3YmSxz3tPJD0dUNllCAf4OC6wyLor1pQ8FmY9ToTFCSW1MM_D0r2KDdge1ZOCzQ4sGb21nNCVsVvx5Y_pYMCGJzZ8mU/s1600/56be6577884f7544abcb59de456a6844.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvQR1ReW60eiu75iZMQavhcEYtBj8RThI_yDEQQ2emZdABnKMd3YmSxz3tPJD0dUNllCAf4OC6wyLor1pQ8FmY9ToTFCSW1MM_D0r2KDdge1ZOCzQ4sGb21nNCVsVvx5Y_pYMCGJzZ8mU/s640/56be6577884f7544abcb59de456a6844.jpg" width="543" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">With Nancy, his first wife, in Hoboken, New Jersey (mid-30s)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">His grandparents' move to
the U.S. was part of a huge influx of European immigrants in the 35 years
leading up to WWI; from 1880-1915 about 24 million crossed the Atlantic<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>— about 4.5 million of those were Italians.
Most of the Italians came from the land-exhausted rural areas of the south,
especially Sicily. The majority of this uneducated group were illiterate — not
only did they not know virtually a word of English, they couldn't read or write
Italian either. This made it very difficult for them to get good jobs — they
had to settle for manual labour and other non-skilled occupations.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlxSx98hG6dhDX10iPiToyMtC2Qtuzca3BvgFQrUrqDs2DGc57PCtReDAiFX_5I6U8L3j46WX6ETxvQSKlZaMMLlew2-QABPToHu37VbwBiiiouvfkwzsCSh9ZFXHRoqtDLhDBnbfz_MQ/s1600/large_sinatra_pignone_bicycle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="512" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlxSx98hG6dhDX10iPiToyMtC2Qtuzca3BvgFQrUrqDs2DGc57PCtReDAiFX_5I6U8L3j46WX6ETxvQSKlZaMMLlew2-QABPToHu37VbwBiiiouvfkwzsCSh9ZFXHRoqtDLhDBnbfz_MQ/s640/large_sinatra_pignone_bicycle.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Frank as a kid in Hoboken</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The majority of these
Italian immigrants had to settle for a low — if not the lowest — position on
the social ladder. They clung to much of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">la
via vecchia</i> (the old way), the traditional values and customs of their home
country, primarily as a defense mechanism. Their children (first generation
Americans), of course, quickly adopted <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">la
via nuova</i>, (the new life) because of their exposure to American
institutions and their immersion in American culture.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmj_Cvzr3xHgAkW28P2itP5EqdvsEmWXl1AB-PVH69YoL0BjtPYtb1GHdKwzNcnrgyjYDHKvsVimfxhiiOi6wzQlZd9qKzqnWDx3Z_jqtyCk9lNHF159xwQYNkNMMMEhH32ktNpzsNZmQ/s1600/hoboken-four-frank-sinatra.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="358" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmj_Cvzr3xHgAkW28P2itP5EqdvsEmWXl1AB-PVH69YoL0BjtPYtb1GHdKwzNcnrgyjYDHKvsVimfxhiiOi6wzQlZd9qKzqnWDx3Z_jqtyCk9lNHF159xwQYNkNMMMEhH32ktNpzsNZmQ/s400/hoboken-four-frank-sinatra.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Frank (top, right) as a member of the Hoboken Four</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">For some easily-identifiable
linguistic, religious and social reasons, Italian-Americans were one of the
most discriminated against immigrant groups. This prejudice, of course,
extended into the entertainment industry. Many musicians, singers, and actors
of Italian-American extraction changed their names, in order to get ahead. Dean
Martin was born Dino Crocetti; Connie Stevens was Concetta Ingoglia; and Tony
Bennett began life as Anthony Benedetto. Frank Sinatra had been advised on
several occasions to do the same. When he joined the Harry James Orchestra in
1939, James tried to persuade Frank to become Frank Satin. "I said no way,
baby," Sinatra recalled years later; "The name is Sinatra. Frank
fucking Sinatra."</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Frank resented the terrible
bigotry imposed on the Italian-American community. It made him angry; and he
went out of his way to fight back against it. In fact, his early experiences of
prejudice against his own community made him stand up later against bigotry
wherever he faced it. He went out of his way to promote the interests of
Afro-American musicians, for example, and he defended them against
discrimination. </span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjazC49WoLRIRWUGDjTt96XGIZ2R3iykpoSBzauvfvIcjMvqw3wxgmC0Ubc6HrfCrCPBeTUtAvVE5sUaVgFqC5j_PrYY7G0w7qS2Qti_mMVa1T9S5r_YQCKLhEnd3j-zyFUyCkyiNwBneY/s1600/EllaFrank1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="430" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjazC49WoLRIRWUGDjTt96XGIZ2R3iykpoSBzauvfvIcjMvqw3wxgmC0Ubc6HrfCrCPBeTUtAvVE5sUaVgFqC5j_PrYY7G0w7qS2Qti_mMVa1T9S5r_YQCKLhEnd3j-zyFUyCkyiNwBneY/s640/EllaFrank1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Frank and Ella performing together on TV</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The third chapter in
Hamill's book deals with the theme of loneliness. Sinatra was an only child —
an unusual thing within the Italian community. Furthermore, during his
childhood he was often neglected emotionally. His father was aloof; and his
mother was often out of the house pursuing her own interests and projects. Natalina
Sinatra (née Garaventa) was a real go-getter. She was full of schemes and
ambitions, working for many years as an operative for the Democratic Party
within her own community in Hoboken. Frank endured long periods of solitude as
a young child, and that must have fuelled his fantasies of fame and fortune.
There was a private and sensitive side to his character, despite that tough and
supremely self-confident swagger he usually showed.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8Vz4B6rEDrU6Z8_XPscEHuWEEFkUFoC-vDtF1R7f49uGmGMDUELKo9m-zgMNLwjpa3ypx3VdKfjQriDU2o_ZT-PhWiGcLNMaoi1dslyrONMJF2v-wDNqtVzcw4FF_bIbCiU_lGuUrba8/s1600/maxresdefault+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8Vz4B6rEDrU6Z8_XPscEHuWEEFkUFoC-vDtF1R7f49uGmGMDUELKo9m-zgMNLwjpa3ypx3VdKfjQriDU2o_ZT-PhWiGcLNMaoi1dslyrONMJF2v-wDNqtVzcw4FF_bIbCiU_lGuUrba8/s640/maxresdefault+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Loneliness, argues Hamill,
is the key theme of his life and work. The sense of abandonment — especially of
love gone wrong — got stronger as the years went by. Melancholic songs of loss
and thwarted dreams lie at the heart of his greatest recordings in the 1950s.
He had an intense, ardent and doomed relationship with Ava Gardiner for most of
the 50s; and the emotional strain of that failed romance drives much of the
song-selections of that decade.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPvQC1UL-9Q_oHdqxjTHpv10lzkwxxUVVH1_2QcbWahbRdOp1g_8vCWZy4d7KEy-8PZjEML07pqFU0CrUl9Jhy-C2beOVLta22anprspFzKGDMbTuf6QTWotB7s7JdVcCF7-ewoBxD4sc/s1600/Frank-Sinatra-duets-ftr.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPvQC1UL-9Q_oHdqxjTHpv10lzkwxxUVVH1_2QcbWahbRdOp1g_8vCWZy4d7KEy-8PZjEML07pqFU0CrUl9Jhy-C2beOVLta22anprspFzKGDMbTuf6QTWotB7s7JdVcCF7-ewoBxD4sc/s640/Frank-Sinatra-duets-ftr.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Recording for Capitol in the 50s</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">But the prime reason, of
course, why Sinatra matters — beyond the attitude and the themes of his work —
is because of the brilliance of his vocal technique. During the height of Sinatramania
in the early 1940s, Frank was often dubbed "Swoonatra" because of the
ardent, often hysterical, behaviour of his young female fans ("bobby
soxers"). Later in his career he was often known either as "The
Chairman of the Board" — he had started his own record label (Reprise) in 1960
— or as "Ol' Blue Eyes". But the tag that stuck the most, and the one
that is clearly the most appropriate, is "The Voice".</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Almost from the very
beginning, Sinatra's singing voice was something special. He began singing
professionally in 1935. The bandleader Harry James heard him singing on a New
York radio station in 1939 and signed him to front his orchestra. From there
Sinatra's career quickly took off. He had only been with them for about six
months, when Sinatra joined — with James's blessing — the Tommy Dorsey
Orchestra. He stayed with Dorsey for three years; in September 1942 he managed
to wangle himself out of his contract to go solo. Not only that, he also manage
to persuade the orchestra's musical arranger, Axel Stordahl, to go with him
(promising to pay him five times the salary that Dorsey did). Dorsey never
forgave Sinatra for his effrontery.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFtSGRI3jEkljoh7_1-pJ5xuyiQOqE4Es9z6k8GrdMP3vrVoqYYYx04k13QUfG_RKw6wPjA30uLiu4UiOvjXE0OCsqqc95bRGA9TFg4Uz-T7QZZWaoRMXzhMuNQJblmabWrBabkRekaVs/s1600/harry-james-frank-sinatra-1939q-1-crp1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="376" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFtSGRI3jEkljoh7_1-pJ5xuyiQOqE4Es9z6k8GrdMP3vrVoqYYYx04k13QUfG_RKw6wPjA30uLiu4UiOvjXE0OCsqqc95bRGA9TFg4Uz-T7QZZWaoRMXzhMuNQJblmabWrBabkRekaVs/s640/harry-james-frank-sinatra-1939q-1-crp1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Sinatra fronting the Harry James Band (1939)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">What is so special about the
singing of Sinatra, The Voice? As Hamill summarizes it: "it was a
combination of voice, diction, attitude and taste in music that produced the
Sinatra sound". The voice, as with most singers, evolved over time: as
Hamill so aptly puts it "from a violin to a viola to a cello, with a rich
middle register and dark bottom tones." </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In his everyday
conversation, Sinatra used lots of slang and lingo. He could be very coarse —
favouring the profane and crude argot of the streets. But when he was singing
his diction was impeccable. He always sounded the consonants at the end of
words, and you can hear every word in a lyric. Nothing is slurred, mumbled, or
mangled. Sinatra once talked about his deliberate efforts to improve his
speech. He used the example of movie stars to inspire him. With these changes,
he recalled, "I started becoming, in some strange way, bilingual. I talked
one kind of English with my friends. Alone in my room, I'd keep practising the
other kind of English."</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB8-AfNWVGzniOW-rorS-XXj41vqpjcR4iycjXMbSdXxnBirdfrWrzcd1FLVGDxSqUFGwC9iXthtNORdseQ7LUXEMOSkYvMX3zsswkDlRfivE05wrWJ1ZEfSG_2WRdN6zJFIeOEM_FROE/s1600/images.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="398" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB8-AfNWVGzniOW-rorS-XXj41vqpjcR4iycjXMbSdXxnBirdfrWrzcd1FLVGDxSqUFGwC9iXthtNORdseQ7LUXEMOSkYvMX3zsswkDlRfivE05wrWJ1ZEfSG_2WRdN6zJFIeOEM_FROE/s640/images.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">When Frank sang an upbeat,
sunny lyric, you could hear an appropriate lightness of feeling in his
approach; when he sang a melancholy song, you could the sadness in his voice.
He effortlessly moulded his vocal instrument to match the meaning of a song. As
Hamill points out, he also learnt how to add tenderness into his performance
while remaining manly. He was one of the first Americans to perfect the Tender
Tough Guy persona.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Sinatra learnt two very
important things from his time with the Tommy Dorsey Orchestra. The first was
the way that Dorsey prepared a show as though it was one long piece of music —
as though it was a carefully thought out album. [This was in an era before the
long-playing album was born.] It was all dance music, but Dorsey planned it so
that it proceeded with different moods and movements towards a crescendo.
Sinatra applied the same technique to the concept albums he recorded for
Capitol records in the 1950s. When he was working with Nelson Riddle, he would
make a list of the 14, or so, songs he wanted to record for a particular album.
Riddle would then prepare the musical arrangements. Everything would be in
place once the recording began in the studio.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Sinatra singing with the Tommy Dorsey Orchestra (early 40s)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The other lesson Sinatra
learnt from Dorsey was how to breathe. Dorsey was a trombone player with
incredible breath control. He could release air slowly enough to support long
lyrical melodic lines. Indeed, he was able to tie the end of one musical phrase
into the start of the next. Sinatra used the same technique with his singing.
To improve his breath control, he would spend a lot of time in swimming pools —
especially under water. He developed a distinctive legato sound, delivering the
lyrics of a song in long, uninterrupted lines. His perfect phrasing matched lines
and half-lines in order to bring out the sense of the song's lyric — perfect
storytelling.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBbDEPUm7e-zWaFSvNVKBD9mzr7FNHmmOe4G88d674aRBvelEhR4TBklLMp1u7a2aTTqVj6G3GKsvJshjuCUO3K0DUhnyppvf1hKCJy__kPqsHCHx7GB6sgYPLoZJUmzfdFURcZ_X6Qv4/s1600/b8bc1fa189406f6d04dc751dba31e072.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBbDEPUm7e-zWaFSvNVKBD9mzr7FNHmmOe4G88d674aRBvelEhR4TBklLMp1u7a2aTTqVj6G3GKsvJshjuCUO3K0DUhnyppvf1hKCJy__kPqsHCHx7GB6sgYPLoZJUmzfdFURcZ_X6Qv4/s640/b8bc1fa189406f6d04dc751dba31e072.jpg" width="526" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Telling a story — Frank studies a song lyric in between takes</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Effective communication of
the lyrics in a song was crucial for Frank. He always studied them carefully in
the studio, right before a take. There are several photographs of Sinatra with
the sheet music spread out in front of him. They seem to encapsulate perfectly
his ability to grasp fully the meaning and emotion in a song. He's not studying
the music — he couldn't read music — he was reading through the lyrics. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCn3yB7vuTGW-BpV2r2rsNCmCwl1yCa-7msH2RyWtkAfz52eMfIkv1gAXNGytWfad5kXtdUiGEfSTu_oprisr30UEtIPU-eC66gkyjV6V4HZMATjq6fdqjKZLrby1GvIjhmzjk7ABeXy0/s1600/a5709b1c2e34ea15337c95943122418f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCn3yB7vuTGW-BpV2r2rsNCmCwl1yCa-7msH2RyWtkAfz52eMfIkv1gAXNGytWfad5kXtdUiGEfSTu_oprisr30UEtIPU-eC66gkyjV6V4HZMATjq6fdqjKZLrby1GvIjhmzjk7ABeXy0/s400/a5709b1c2e34ea15337c95943122418f.jpg" width="285" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">... much older, but still studying lyrics</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Sinatra
had an ability, like no other singer of his generation, to get inside a song.
When he was ready to sing, he delivered it as though it were a short story. You
couldn't help but get involved in his performance, following every nuance of
his perfect phrasing. There are so many versions he did of oft-recorded songs
that sound like they're the definitive one. He didn't just sing a song. He got
inside it and delivered it as a dramatic performance. There are very few
singers who can match him on this.</span><br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/m121tmJzcAc/0.jpg" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/m121tmJzcAc?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
"One For My Baby (And One More For the Road)" by Harold Arlen and Johnny Mercer"</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN9GdUChnvwuP5QpGZAQN4NuIUyaHerx-hLj82ky_D9ACdOMBJuct6cZDXn4EXP4H3hcHrezLNn-y5FTgvV6cGOgcHSufSKvBSdbiJXjDiv6hGapdaNp6mVZYQbAkWpB3VSiGXukHbs4U/s1600/3973.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="384" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN9GdUChnvwuP5QpGZAQN4NuIUyaHerx-hLj82ky_D9ACdOMBJuct6cZDXn4EXP4H3hcHrezLNn-y5FTgvV6cGOgcHSufSKvBSdbiJXjDiv6hGapdaNp6mVZYQbAkWpB3VSiGXukHbs4U/s640/3973.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">And, then, there is the
matter of Sinatra's impeccable taste in songs. Before the concept of the
"great American songbook" had been dreamt up, Sinatra had been busy
constructing concept albums built on the very best songs written during the
first four decades of the 20th century — songs by Irving Berlin, George
Gershwin, Rodgers and Hart, Harold Arlen, Cole Porter, Jerome Kern, etc. Frank
developed this taste very early — he spent long hours as a young singer listening
to their work and memorizing the lyrics. In the many albums he recorded during
his peak in the 1950s, it is very difficult to find a single dud or piece of
filler.</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKyEp1-9i41qKxB5kDm2dqeQq8JpFBvc41Uf4I8qr3nvc5JCzmgxTMvVbdN1lG2jsOXQ9VJ4uNLq0xz8WYBPEeyZrFcICujd4K2annJI8A13WDqp4tSpVnaUyw5mPYgLBR-f5Pz5cmGC8/s1600/Riddle_Sinatra_lg.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="432" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKyEp1-9i41qKxB5kDm2dqeQq8JpFBvc41Uf4I8qr3nvc5JCzmgxTMvVbdN1lG2jsOXQ9VJ4uNLq0xz8WYBPEeyZrFcICujd4K2annJI8A13WDqp4tSpVnaUyw5mPYgLBR-f5Pz5cmGC8/s640/Riddle_Sinatra_lg.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Conferring with Nelson Riddle about an arrangement</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Finally, a word about
Sinatra's choice of arrangers and musical directors. As mentioned earlier, he
worked effectively with Axel Stordahl in the 1940s. And, then, when he started
recording albums for Capitol in 1953, he was lucky enough to hook up with arranger
and bandleader Nelson Riddle. Between 1953 and 1981 they did an incredible 24
albums together. Sinatra's impeccable taste in material was evenly matched by
Riddle's ability to create sympathetic and effective orchestrations. He spread
solos creatively among woodwinds and brass, and he never made his string
parts too lush and cloying. Nothing in his work sounds dated or annoying to the
modern ear.</span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Why
Sinatra Matters</span></i><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> may be seen as a paean; but it's certainly
not an uncritical hagiography or a defensive apologia. Hamill concedes that
Sinatra was often cruel, crass, and obnoxious. He could be violent, too; and he
had questionable ties to the Mob. On the other hand, as Hamill points out, much
of the more serious accusations made against the man have never been
substantiated and — even after years of close surveillance by the F.B.I. — he
was never indicted. Much of the negative talk against Sinatra, it seems, was
based on rumours spread by professional gossips in the entertainment trade and
by journalists and pundits who disliked his don't-give-a-shit, take-no-prisoners
attitude. The man did not believe in trying to ingratiate himself with anyone. "It's
Sinatra's world," Dean Martin once quipped, "we just live in
it."</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This is a well-written, concise, and thoughtful inquiry into the career of Frank Sinatra. Sinatra was — as most great
artists are — a man of contradictions. Many people are repelled by
the more unsavoury aspects of his personality. But underneath that rough and
often vulgar facade lay a man of great sensitivity and artistic talent. He
worked hard to build that talent. And he listened carefully as he developed his
musical technique. Frank Sinatra became the greatest practitioner of the American popular song.
He made it an art form. Sit back and listen, for example, to the magic that
Sinatra and Nelson Riddle create with <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">In the Wee
Small Hours</i> or <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Only the Lonely</i>,
and you'll find yourself mesmerized by the wonderful material, the beautiful
voice, the incredible technique, the gorgeous arrangements. Just perfect. And
that's why Sinatra matters.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><b><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Why Sinatra Matters</span></i></b><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> by Pete Hamill <span style="display: none; mso-hide: all;">amillH<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span></span>was published by Little Brown and Company, New York in 1998. The
new edition was released in October, 2015 to mark the centenary of Sinatra's
birth. The book has 180 pages of text, 8 black-and-white, full-page photos
between chapters, a list of recommended recordings, a brief bibliography of
Sinatra books consulted, and a short list of recommended Sinatra movies.</span></span></span></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFHoJBFUEy5mqEMC598ONSx9ZRV3wueYsI7KqWh8rwRD7El7cxjJvEky7RofUrYw09zbyTaJfmzrnGjz58aT-ghxIxvpiyAaMOdXJxUH1vo_WFNUg1klGiksyvfzgqdkBLjjAAP3ahhZY/s1600/cover.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFHoJBFUEy5mqEMC598ONSx9ZRV3wueYsI7KqWh8rwRD7El7cxjJvEky7RofUrYw09zbyTaJfmzrnGjz58aT-ghxIxvpiyAaMOdXJxUH1vo_WFNUg1klGiksyvfzgqdkBLjjAAP3ahhZY/s320/cover.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The 1955 Capitol album: <i>In the Wee Small Hours</i></span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-jBml00ZbthwfAbk69gffvCgNQTzDpScJbtQx3lcog72SW58Cxuji5apDvf7GsrxsBBbtfo40MqhwxwvXjUcAcm3-nE5aTHAy671m0HDy0AB9w17wnwpAd6vpC7XshXo0KZTrr1Ll4oU/s1600/DSC_4070-001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-jBml00ZbthwfAbk69gffvCgNQTzDpScJbtQx3lcog72SW58Cxuji5apDvf7GsrxsBBbtfo40MqhwxwvXjUcAcm3-nE5aTHAy671m0HDy0AB9w17wnwpAd6vpC7XshXo0KZTrr1Ll4oU/s640/DSC_4070-001.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Dr. Kiss Fish (<i>Dottor Fish</i>) on Ruga dei Spezieri in San Polo, Venice</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
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<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">We passed the shop several
times before realising what it was. It is a small enterprise — located in the
San Polo district of Venice — on the main route between our hotel <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">(Locande Poste Vecie)</i> and the Rialto
Bridge. You walk north-west from the bridge along Ruga dei Oresi and Ruga dei
Spezieri. The shop is on the right. You reach it just before Campo
Biccarie, the square in front of the fish market. </span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Speaking of fish, the shop
looked like a place specialising in the sale of exotic, tropical fish. But the
aquaria were only medium-sized, and they were placed low to the ground and away
from the walls. Tropical fish shops are usually crammed full of differently-sized
aquaria stacked along the walls in three or four rows. And there is normally a
great variety of fish — all sorts of shapes, sizes and colours. The fish tanks in
this place seemed to be stocked with pretty much the same species. What was
going on?</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1Sl8BGxOYJLGoWoga7vS4uor9A-Oo-fvyx2QirnogNT5IloCidYWpauWHU9ZLfChCjb8Jf5cM_iiOF6LGSYFKrUWqrOfNPyBKwOA0vsbb4WYHBkWEXEKS7gI551_X87vVygN1MXJGnMM/s1600/DSC_4067-001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1Sl8BGxOYJLGoWoga7vS4uor9A-Oo-fvyx2QirnogNT5IloCidYWpauWHU9ZLfChCjb8Jf5cM_iiOF6LGSYFKrUWqrOfNPyBKwOA0vsbb4WYHBkWEXEKS7gI551_X87vVygN1MXJGnMM/s400/DSC_4067-001.JPG" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Garra rufa</i> fish in the <i>Dottor Fish</i> spa</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The general appearance of
the shop, too, was very different; it lacked the overstocked, utilitarian look
I'm familiar with. Instead, it contained a limited number of aquaria, set out
in a well-lit, open room, decorated with bright blue walls and a yellow floor. And
the young woman in the back of the place did not look like she was selling fish
— no, there was<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"> the sense</span> of a<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"> more</span> upscale service.</span></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC_kEhQRT43Org9yxt1KfmGQDf2bK1C4gsgK1LkFfl0yFNT62i352gg69NOaU3gXiRQ65CMFpwJtOHjdrhOUA-yM1FY4NE1lhjx93fE5RPVCeRFkZZLpPRJ71Y3OCsZ6OQq6KNhuMycKs/s1600/DSC_4020-001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC_kEhQRT43Org9yxt1KfmGQDf2bK1C4gsgK1LkFfl0yFNT62i352gg69NOaU3gXiRQ65CMFpwJtOHjdrhOUA-yM1FY4NE1lhjx93fE5RPVCeRFkZZLpPRJ71Y3OCsZ6OQq6KNhuMycKs/s400/DSC_4020-001.JPG" width="265" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Eventually, though, the
penny dropped. I stopped and peered in the window, and examined the inside of
the shop more carefully. A sign on the window said (in several languages)
"Please, watch from outside. Thank you." Those were padded seats
behind the fish tanks. Customers were supposed to sit there and dangle their
legs into the fish tanks. What? Fish pedicures, Barb explained, who had heard of
this activity before. Well, I never!</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhahptJyhokSHMnxk5BcCgOzjwVSE7IpS_-I6Y1d-cN-gdEIvu4aYeOuhOveHet9e_CV2FIcOxcR8UX0Dd0IFOQvisTMw30Z62S93FBKEbhjwD11c0U6TkxRI6qytp4OHSRUBGoGwxW3v8/s1600/DSC_4025.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhahptJyhokSHMnxk5BcCgOzjwVSE7IpS_-I6Y1d-cN-gdEIvu4aYeOuhOveHet9e_CV2FIcOxcR8UX0Dd0IFOQvisTMw30Z62S93FBKEbhjwD11c0U6TkxRI6qytp4OHSRUBGoGwxW3v8/s640/DSC_4025.JPG" width="419" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Barbara washes her feet in preparation for the fish pedicure</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">After our travels through
Tuscany, we came back to Venice for our flight out of Italy. Our hotel was near
the airport, but on that last afternoon and evening we went back into the city
by bus for a meal and a meandering walk around the city. And, at some point,
there we were outside the fish place. I looked up at the sign above the shop's
front window. It read <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Dottor Fish: Dr.
Kiss Fish</i>. Barb was interested in trying it out, but was shy about being
the only one in the place — I wasn't keen! But then a younger American couple
stopped at the place and quickly decided to have a go. That was all Barb needed
— <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">we</span> followed them inside.</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5ML4B71dOZPZuDry4reAxwC_MWDkg3VOeLFp__Tn_N87IsqGqdkll5wWLklkUzy0Z5gKNT7WZ-MybCTaKxYh40229tl04l5NHyWaIcf65mq6CxmJVVsYP2nQTQfE8zGZLqvHCGc-mUyM/s1600/DSC_4022-001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5ML4B71dOZPZuDry4reAxwC_MWDkg3VOeLFp__Tn_N87IsqGqdkll5wWLklkUzy0Z5gKNT7WZ-MybCTaKxYh40229tl04l5NHyWaIcf65mq6CxmJVVsYP2nQTQfE8zGZLqvHCGc-mUyM/s640/DSC_4022-001.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Hygiene and health rules</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The attendant pointed to a
sign on the wall that listed those health conditions <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">which <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">ruled people out from the procedure.</span></span> The first step in the
process was to sit at a foot bath in the back corner of the establishment and
wash your feet. After a quick dry, you move over to one of the cushioned seats
and sit down there with your feet resting on the far edge of the tank. Then you
carefully insert your legs into the tank, so as not to upset the fish by making
a big splash. Now it's a fish-pedicure for ten minutes — administered by a
school of minnow-sized creatures known as "doctor fish". They busy
themselves, for those ten minutes, <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>nibbling away dead skin cells from your feet. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYpZ2FtTt63jbQxHGOlvF3osTM3aVuy11zcCRmzRQi_Ugcr7RDDMe2rVo-PKP6egPtn2yXnoW3WC-GVXH_8UMwRqlNnCsWEuHt2iBcPo7vTFQ49EeMzAgoWjPnK1IziScxiMlJ0bdON1c/s1600/DSC_4057.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYpZ2FtTt63jbQxHGOlvF3osTM3aVuy11zcCRmzRQi_Ugcr7RDDMe2rVo-PKP6egPtn2yXnoW3WC-GVXH_8UMwRqlNnCsWEuHt2iBcPo7vTFQ49EeMzAgoWjPnK1IziScxiMlJ0bdON1c/s400/DSC_4057.JPG" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The nibbling fish apply the pedicure</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The scientific name for
these "doctor fish" is <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Garra
rufa</i>. They are also known colloquially as "nibble fish",
"kangal fish" and "bonefish". <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Garra rufa</i> are native to the rivers of northern and central Middle
East: mainly, Turkey, Syria, Iraq, Iran and Oman. This species belongs to the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">cyprinidae</i> family of tropical fish. They
don't have any teeth; they feed on the phytoplankton which thrive in warm water
(27-30°). <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Gurra rufa </i>live for 3-4
years.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The company which runs these
shops (they are franchises) claims that, as the fish nibble off damaged skin on
the legs and feet, they emit a special enzyme (dithranol) which encourages the
growth of softer, smoother, velvety skin. In addition to the natural
exfoliation of skin, they are also supposed to stimulate "microcirculation".</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgnmheDje8IqLlOAzGgUsfY0zYVJcECbdD2dxPOi-Eb382P4OzOSCAfwEQPsGiRpkcJEvPNtbLsR4qT4rkBjWwhiAjBtjdlywc9_DoMvHRySWGP_dFspt5uhyphenhyphen86DwSlnAL9E9W2ZAYUTw/s1600/DSC_4059.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgnmheDje8IqLlOAzGgUsfY0zYVJcECbdD2dxPOi-Eb382P4OzOSCAfwEQPsGiRpkcJEvPNtbLsR4qT4rkBjWwhiAjBtjdlywc9_DoMvHRySWGP_dFspt5uhyphenhyphen86DwSlnAL9E9W2ZAYUTw/s640/DSC_4059.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The story of <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">how </span>this procedure<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"> developed </span>begins in Turkey. In 1917 a Turkish shepherd was wounded in
the leg. He collapsed on the bank of the Kangal River, sticking his leg into
the water to relieve the pain of his wound. The <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Garra rufa</i> fish ate the damaged skin from around his wound and
stimulated a more rapid growth of healthy skin. Once the cause-and-effect <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">relationship</span>
was <span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">realised</span>, that area around the Kangal River became a place of pilgrimage
for patients with similar complaints. </span></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDdnQxJGmuS_jPoBBUX7VKIGYpOZ_Vczmsv5w2XwebMCdcdC6bKVitNpweS4UvdYm3rIrOBcivISDANww9ekxfAeZRVV-6GMq06LO9twlKEBG39PXmXKW_6WgNMRohgY56bvXuzsNVpi0/s1600/DSC_4053.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDdnQxJGmuS_jPoBBUX7VKIGYpOZ_Vczmsv5w2XwebMCdcdC6bKVitNpweS4UvdYm3rIrOBcivISDANww9ekxfAeZRVV-6GMq06LO9twlKEBG39PXmXKW_6WgNMRohgY56bvXuzsNVpi0/s640/DSC_4053.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The first "fish spa
resorts" were opened in 2006 in Turkey, Japan and Croatia. They quickly
spread all over Asia and Europe. In 2008 two facilities were established in the
U.S. And the first spa in the UK opened in Sheffield in 2010. There are now
hundreds nationwide.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">But not everyone is sold on
this sort of "natural pedicure". The efficacy and safety of the
process is still a controversial topic. Some Canadian provinces, for example,
have banned the practice as unsanitary. It is thought by some health
professionals that the spas spread infection: people-to-fish; fish-to-people;
or people-to-people. The safety sign in the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Dottor
Fish</i> shop in Ruga dei Spezieri forbids the procedure for people suffering
diabetes or impaired immune systems, and those who have had recent scabs,
blisters, and infections (foot fungus).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Well, Barb enjoyed the
tickle of the nibbling fish, and she felt the process was effective. She gets a
build-up of dried-out, calloused skin on her feet, and she thought the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Garra rufa</i> fish did a good job improving
the state of her feet.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirmg_o59K9v9j7M3xqdMVm5CGU1MKNTuRaIB3CQ5fS-zTsE6rlEmD-8uqGATBwDoaH5uCpYUA0EkE9E0UAtkUOLH3iF_yEfCzJFSBjiFqpwEDwl4civWsgY1fupdt9E8Bc1cYooEmYqxo/s1600/DSC_4036-001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirmg_o59K9v9j7M3xqdMVm5CGU1MKNTuRaIB3CQ5fS-zTsE6rlEmD-8uqGATBwDoaH5uCpYUA0EkE9E0UAtkUOLH3iF_yEfCzJFSBjiFqpwEDwl4civWsgY1fupdt9E8Bc1cYooEmYqxo/s640/DSC_4036-001.JPG" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Looks like fun!</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">There are two <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Dottor Fish</i> sites in Venice: 1) 30121
Cannaregio in the Cannaregio district (in the north-east); and 2) via San Polo
316 in the San Polo district (north-west of the Rialto Bridge).</span></div>
Clive Baughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10523779808271053053noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8282904905780175338.post-41281620129125386082015-09-06T16:43:00.004-04:002015-12-12T22:51:30.628-05:00Photo Essay: Day Fourteen of the Coast to Coast Walk (the final stage)<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"If you are
walking to seek, ye shall find."</span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">- </span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Sommeil
Liberosensa</span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Day Fourteen: from Glaisdale to Robin Hood's Bay
(19.5 miles/31 km)</span></b></div>
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<u><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Summary
of Route</span></u><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">: Well, here we are — the fourteenth and
final stage of the Coast to Coast Walk. It's not all easy-going. And it's quite
a long stretch. But you get distracted from that reality by several novel
features today — a stroll through a lovely woodlot (Little Beck Wood), and a
walk along the coast, for example — and the thought that soon it will all be
over. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6Sn4QCj6Y5mpoIu8uvF1-KQtzOtgGnuDju0F0ACBFgQ-4blP32qOCnmzlLom0IWpM9qviRhMBi3o7J9CXLt6E6VdDx822R54Luiu7X2XKlE9eYlBRb_VE7u46CJzbjBbx8jS5YcKZt2k/s1600/DSC_7933.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="380" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6Sn4QCj6Y5mpoIu8uvF1-KQtzOtgGnuDju0F0ACBFgQ-4blP32qOCnmzlLom0IWpM9qviRhMBi3o7J9CXLt6E6VdDx822R54Luiu7X2XKlE9eYlBRb_VE7u46CJzbjBbx8jS5YcKZt2k/s640/DSC_7933.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">In one field, just outside Glaisdale, we came upon a field with about three dozen pheasants!</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The
landscape continues to feature moorland and roadways. And ends — bookend-style
— with sea cliffs and a climb down to the beach at Robin Hood's Bay.</span><br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This
stage starts nicely with a gradual hike downhill from Glaisdale into the
picturesque hamlet of Egton Bridge, one of the most attractive spots on the entire
Walk.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">A home in a former Post Office -- it still has the post box in the wall</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Two
miles further east is the equally interesting hamlet of Grosmont — less
picturesque, in a traditional sense — but notable for its associations with
steam trains (the North York Moors Railway).</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">An old-fashioned train station in Grosmont</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">But
now there is the final very steep climb — about 700 feet (230 m) — up to
Sleights Moor. On the way up you can glimpse a view of Whitby Abbey to the
north. At the top you pass the five High Bride Stones, the remnants of a
Bronze-Age stone circle. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPUauTfYIFVTMyGAThfcWFImhtOSKfrlYvgyUdWZPG1V9TxSuro-anUt3ZlhsKspZJWWfV83IxYVJ0cKpC6DpatD71Dx7lt04VmS656kh68z1DTtC9lDrq6svSQpE2eXoJ7yIwFMdjHl0/s1600/DSC_7955.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPUauTfYIFVTMyGAThfcWFImhtOSKfrlYvgyUdWZPG1V9TxSuro-anUt3ZlhsKspZJWWfV83IxYVJ0cKpC6DpatD71Dx7lt04VmS656kh68z1DTtC9lDrq6svSQpE2eXoJ7yIwFMdjHl0/s640/DSC_7955.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Village sign constructed out of bicycle parts</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Then
you descend gradually through more heather and across Sleights Moor, until you
reach the small village of Littlebeck. Just south of the village you begin a long
stroll through the lovely Little Beck Wood (not so little, actually — it's 65
acres). Half way through the woods you encounter Falling Foss, a
20-metre-high<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>waterfall. There's a tea
garden next to it — should you fancy a cuppa.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Falling Foss</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">A "cream-tea" at Falling Foss</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">At
the end of the woods, you turn sharply north along a road for a bit, and then
strike out across the Sneaton Low Moor and the Graystone Hills. Continue north
to Low Hawsker; and then east to High Hawsker. Soon enough you'll meet the
Cleveland Way right on the coast, overlooking the North Sea.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Checking the route in Stedman's book and the Harvey map</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">From
here you turn south-east and follow the sea cliffs into Robin Hood's Bay. Climb
down to the small beach and dip a hiking boot into the North Sea. Hallelujah,
you're done — 190 miles (304 km) across England on the Coast to Coast Walk, through
the Lake District, over the Pennines, and across the North York Moors. Head for
Wainwright's Bar in the Bay Hotel. Sign their visitors' book; and down a pint,
or two, in celebration!</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Well
we made it! This was the fourteenth and final day of the Coast to Coast Walk.
And it wasn't an easy end to the adventure: we hiked for about twenty miles
today — the second longest stage in our journey.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">A few more colours of heather on the North York Moors</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The
hiking today featured a little bit of everything we've faced so far: some
walking through the woods on muddy paths (thanks to a couple of days of rain);
a fair bit of road-walking on hard tarmac (not good for the feet); two steep
ascents (especially the one out Grosmont); some walking across fields and
meadows; and trails across the wind-blown, heather-clad moors of the North
Yorkshire Moors National Park.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZSgSxOyiXV82JfhGWJmSzi7Nbxl4HfoXZbxE9Niz5KA6qjFkTXE8eMBMjM1ktk0NQ3YEZ1UrI7XK1-4alEf92Rbt79Naz382bWXg5R_7fK-xHiGVPssBz_ovmrQJUkdJk09QCcu1KHzY/s1600/DSC_8058.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="417" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZSgSxOyiXV82JfhGWJmSzi7Nbxl4HfoXZbxE9Niz5KA6qjFkTXE8eMBMjM1ktk0NQ3YEZ1UrI7XK1-4alEf92Rbt79Naz382bWXg5R_7fK-xHiGVPssBz_ovmrQJUkdJk09QCcu1KHzY/s640/DSC_8058.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Getting closer to Robin Hoods Bay -- it's now on the road signs!</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This
final stage also served as a bookend to the first day's hike: from St Bees, on
the Irish Sea coast, we had hiked north — on that first day a fortnight ago — along
the cliffs of South and North Head; today we approached our destination — the
beach on Robin Hoods Bay — by hiking south along the dramatic cliff-top south
of Whitby.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHGaFtu9D4jZlJHyKQOgAcAx-b2iy7mgiIDe1v1fWXAbuGfy5qbTOv2DXa2EmJ_LCL7Sg-GmyW-ddxAjr4zVHd1FrOUgPBDmufLRDmctf0x9ZRqlsdb9s6T4THg5xhgbzDvrYtyCGy3lA/s1600/DSC_8075.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHGaFtu9D4jZlJHyKQOgAcAx-b2iy7mgiIDe1v1fWXAbuGfy5qbTOv2DXa2EmJ_LCL7Sg-GmyW-ddxAjr4zVHd1FrOUgPBDmufLRDmctf0x9ZRqlsdb9s6T4THg5xhgbzDvrYtyCGy3lA/s640/DSC_8075.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The cliff face north of Robin Hoods Bay</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">On
most of this trip's stages we experienced those "are-we-there-yet"
moments, when the physical and mental fatigue really kicks in during the final
two hours. Today was no different. Despite the anticipation of finishing our
fourteen-day trek, and the exhilaration of completing this ambitious adventure,
this day's walk still ended with a tiring hike south along the wind-blown
coastal path. Some of the vistas of the rocky coast were spectacular, but soon
we couldn't help but wish that the shelter of Robin Hoods Day would come soon.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMdWOLb6rA1xGFXPVbpwaQs37E6QDt9mPY3vPJdRHipg-MXAivQXG-Ij43MNlMom_5QRJ4BTuO4O5LfSa9kTbW6wGKy5w7FXjjZ1IiNvcDlQrYIJ3cdUaRKi9Y_oFugybN-HNHQDld1fk/s1600/DSC_8086.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMdWOLb6rA1xGFXPVbpwaQs37E6QDt9mPY3vPJdRHipg-MXAivQXG-Ij43MNlMom_5QRJ4BTuO4O5LfSa9kTbW6wGKy5w7FXjjZ1IiNvcDlQrYIJ3cdUaRKi9Y_oFugybN-HNHQDld1fk/s640/DSC_8086.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Quote of the Day:</span><br />
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">"... how often do any of us walk 14 miles in a day, let alone
continuously for two weeks?" </span></i></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">- Henry
Stedman (explaining that the Coast to Coast Walk is tougher than some people
think) </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsNrSOgpFtvqZjE3TuEzfYYfjpv_axzTgSPhJqjB8EUUzpW2R8sA67YhHlP108i8GDISeh2Qm5YC_cCxlT3cz514MlhquejcgOrYqN5oU7W4V_9yf-sJ1neqrMhn4-i5gUJMS9tMinOyA/s1600/DSC_8099.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsNrSOgpFtvqZjE3TuEzfYYfjpv_axzTgSPhJqjB8EUUzpW2R8sA67YhHlP108i8GDISeh2Qm5YC_cCxlT3cz514MlhquejcgOrYqN5oU7W4V_9yf-sJ1neqrMhn4-i5gUJMS9tMinOyA/s640/DSC_8099.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Finally, Robin Hoods Bay is visible from the cliffs north of the village</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Eventually,
it did. We marched down the streets of this attractive village towards the
beach — the "official" terminus of the Coast to Coast Walk. The final
stretch in the oldest part of the village was very steep going down — and I
couldn't help thinking that we would soon have to climb back out on our way to
our B&B.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEzXKLbA8zdJdH4GCsICpnpPyLWVVSdYE9P_GempDrNLjr6EI1jW8mT9_h7ldQSQM15H3dam5pxXnTFiKpw_xOT_0G9Drj8Avzzw_eWKBfHlGBVxFeWr5t2iBCjzx2VsWATkHYX44fUHI/s1600/DSC_8110.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEzXKLbA8zdJdH4GCsICpnpPyLWVVSdYE9P_GempDrNLjr6EI1jW8mT9_h7ldQSQM15H3dam5pxXnTFiKpw_xOT_0G9Drj8Avzzw_eWKBfHlGBVxFeWr5t2iBCjzx2VsWATkHYX44fUHI/s640/DSC_8110.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The final step of the Coast to Coast Walk -- a hiking boot each in the North Sea</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">And
then we were at the beach. There were a couple of "obligatory" rituals
I wanted to document with my camera. We each stuck one of our hiking boots into
the Water of the North Sea — as we had at the very beginning of the Walk in St
Bees. And then we took the pebble that we had selected from the strand in St
Bees and tossed it ceremoniously into the North Sea. From west coast to east
coast. Our journey was complete.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilRVnUcz97_nBjiSfKwCbSYhVqjw4IAGeY5HElEBKilsVBEmQ1vdWG2u7Kj2JWOM5UB30wVqpyL8TvZ02-BGiYdhMAnkCHVaysZaoCT4kRHznffPa7r3Q-D4mjxGwdDu0xsbDOBEltHfw/s1600/DSC_8111.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilRVnUcz97_nBjiSfKwCbSYhVqjw4IAGeY5HElEBKilsVBEmQ1vdWG2u7Kj2JWOM5UB30wVqpyL8TvZ02-BGiYdhMAnkCHVaysZaoCT4kRHznffPa7r3Q-D4mjxGwdDu0xsbDOBEltHfw/s640/DSC_8111.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Michael tosses his pebble into the North Sea</span></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizDJ7_jUZ0p3MCI3uVSrfA4D-H40PdIBYcYodQl_Spa2nodovo39bE6UD7jKAIrsUAAGtmeflSuNJQJZ_7Qt-yoJwYIyzF7H4DurLAWf7YHRWi0Bm7INVIrgRGwZEfuAGP4sXTZyBsLDQ/s1600/DSC_8112.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizDJ7_jUZ0p3MCI3uVSrfA4D-H40PdIBYcYodQl_Spa2nodovo39bE6UD7jKAIrsUAAGtmeflSuNJQJZ_7Qt-yoJwYIyzF7H4DurLAWf7YHRWi0Bm7INVIrgRGwZEfuAGP4sXTZyBsLDQ/s640/DSC_8112.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">... then Tony</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">... my turn</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I
looked for someone to take a photograph of the three of us on the beach. There
was a threesome nearby. One of them agreed quite readily to do so — especially
when I explained that we had just completed the 192-mile Coast to Coast Walk.
He was very impressed, and we had a brief chat as he went about the business of
documenting this final moment.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL2hcwaZ41SPYx-o4jAXLbQ4ELGNsDmFh16XwxeTmuC87T2Sckqoic5FfP5W4hx4z273BmrQMvPankPsvKp9xawVqg400vy1_i_5A61RZicxZ4DlFXSsqUf0jl_MUxtSd0nQpbBweAtGs/s1600/DSC_8120.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="430" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL2hcwaZ41SPYx-o4jAXLbQ4ELGNsDmFh16XwxeTmuC87T2Sckqoic5FfP5W4hx4z273BmrQMvPankPsvKp9xawVqg400vy1_i_5A61RZicxZ4DlFXSsqUf0jl_MUxtSd0nQpbBweAtGs/s640/DSC_8120.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Michael, Clive and Tony (left-to-right) at journey's end</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">That
done we walked off the beach and into "Wainwright's Bar" in the Bay
Hotel. We trudged tiredly upstairs and ordered three pints of Wainwright Ale.
Before taking our drinks outside, in order to relax for ten minutes in the
fresh air, we signed the Visitors Book. We were tired, but triumphant.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgym_vmha7SbWILCosKpKy1S6W6JHjeoT9G1GyJzzk_YNzRuFKuVM1TAxWLcrvxJ4hLst0xAall9lDshXps8tZBWvBu5TRIqgcfmjqHyL_Eq-eW_1-2hojKhS4vIM6lNORlzQ5qM0JdoKk/s1600/DSC_8135.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgym_vmha7SbWILCosKpKy1S6W6JHjeoT9G1GyJzzk_YNzRuFKuVM1TAxWLcrvxJ4hLst0xAall9lDshXps8tZBWvBu5TRIqgcfmjqHyL_Eq-eW_1-2hojKhS4vIM6lNORlzQ5qM0JdoKk/s640/DSC_8135.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The Wainwright Bar is in the Bay Hotel -- next to the beach at Robin Hoods Bay</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">And
then it was time to head up the steep hill to The Villa — our B&B for the
night in Robin Hoods Bay. My legs felt like they were going to seize up. It was
as though they had decided, independently of my will and spirit, that
one-foot-in-front-of the-other was finally over — walking was done for now and
forever!</span><br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">After
a long, soothing bath at the B&B, the three of us walked down into the old
part of Robin Hoods Bay again, to enjoy an excellent meal at the Smugglers Inn.
There was much talk amongst us about the thoughts and feelings that filled our
minds and hearts after this incredible fortnight walking across the north of
England — truly one of those "once-in-a-lifetime" experiences.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4qCjHII43tumPdRPpbPE6HQTRvnps2DaiCbk22qogxRTTQ_oWMZpX4WgMFm9TZCLGExGc0i0QS_985wskVncnnycKLGEstZY1Mg8i1JxH7D1p4s6XNBl5SDXDq_7VmL4-9o6kiLQERZk/s1600/DSC_8125.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4qCjHII43tumPdRPpbPE6HQTRvnps2DaiCbk22qogxRTTQ_oWMZpX4WgMFm9TZCLGExGc0i0QS_985wskVncnnycKLGEstZY1Mg8i1JxH7D1p4s6XNBl5SDXDq_7VmL4-9o6kiLQERZk/s640/DSC_8125.JPG" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Michael signs the Visitors Book</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU4ySX8ANdq8JdXkBOr295Dkn6c2DUQbIsZGNcy4dK3q9Xo91qIvDf6s6xcbzVfFpIuj6zjRco4DOTmuTkvQ-PT8Y8vl1tEDngq-s10yWXaCydIRd05xQ7e9rerZpAUUjj43oOctJDhdw/s1600/DSC_8132.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU4ySX8ANdq8JdXkBOr295Dkn6c2DUQbIsZGNcy4dK3q9Xo91qIvDf6s6xcbzVfFpIuj6zjRco4DOTmuTkvQ-PT8Y8vl1tEDngq-s10yWXaCydIRd05xQ7e9rerZpAUUjj43oOctJDhdw/s640/DSC_8132.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Cheers! We're done!</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Thanks
to my good friends Tony and Michael for their companionship and support
throughout this challenging fortnight. We made a good team. And we achieved our
goal with virtually no problems or difficulties — thanks to careful planning
and the dogged pursuit of our goal.</span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"I finished the
Pennine Way with relief, the Coast to Coast Walk with regret."</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">-
Alfred Wainwright</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiis2gaFIMgWXKkly7GH5YkiDOjY3Yby6hMV9GgHa26CmOsv9lASAwskn6d-MxirhAixzTeW85rui6P36ICzmWVonrB5W6KE-SNmeIkpzEyGwtSBNDL8-wlVxWGnNhDrvKdMgXNge-Pscc/s1600/wain2.jpeg.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiis2gaFIMgWXKkly7GH5YkiDOjY3Yby6hMV9GgHa26CmOsv9lASAwskn6d-MxirhAixzTeW85rui6P36ICzmWVonrB5W6KE-SNmeIkpzEyGwtSBNDL8-wlVxWGnNhDrvKdMgXNge-Pscc/s640/wain2.jpeg.jpg" width="506" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Alfred Wainwright, who created the Coast to Coast Walk in 1972</span></td></tr>
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<b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Dedication</span></b></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This hike is dedicated to
Bill and Barb Cannon. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">(see
the end of my blog post for Day One for details)</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDJxAeveBY7o5j_jP7r8KIlGiBLr8XtAQ50Psri1-BWkyRBs5mmrBsIc8zW39XyNCo5bbF4w_a-cGNGICoFNdBEqe9QpoXNzi_fjOemdbDA8_wIYkZ5jDQtFgy2nKU7cvDT5-zPQJrTQ0/s1600/henry-stedman.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDJxAeveBY7o5j_jP7r8KIlGiBLr8XtAQ50Psri1-BWkyRBs5mmrBsIc8zW39XyNCo5bbF4w_a-cGNGICoFNdBEqe9QpoXNzi_fjOemdbDA8_wIYkZ5jDQtFgy2nKU7cvDT5-zPQJrTQ0/s400/henry-stedman.jpeg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Henry Stedman</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Resources:
I am deeply indebted to Henry Stedman's <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Coast
to Coast Path - Sixth Edition</i>, published by Trailblazer Publications, for
much of the detail in the route summaries; I also used <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">A Coast to Coast Walk - Revised Edition</i> (2003) by A. Wainwright,
published by Frances Lincoln, London; the sectional maps come from Harvey Map <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">XT40: Coast to Coast West (St. Bees to Keld)</i>
and<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Harvey Map <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">XT40:</i> <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Coast to Coast East
(Keld to Robin Hood's Bay)</i>; the B&B and hotel bookings, and the daily
luggage-ferrying was done by <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Macs
Adventure</i>. The books and maps can be purchased via amazon.ca or amazon.uk </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkAIYGEOW9-MZRb2_4-iaNk81aqyEjjioK-V6uo62a9hWW7ryX-EGwW-NLxBOOwYNKiQldc8XktiIRgQ6XyQK4V754hU03SyKbD7RIGv7TgZ5paVQgs86UImNT2rQWSO23TTN3uyjaR-o/s1600/DSC_8030.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkAIYGEOW9-MZRb2_4-iaNk81aqyEjjioK-V6uo62a9hWW7ryX-EGwW-NLxBOOwYNKiQldc8XktiIRgQ6XyQK4V754hU03SyKbD7RIGv7TgZ5paVQgs86UImNT2rQWSO23TTN3uyjaR-o/s640/DSC_8030.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Clive Baughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10523779808271053053noreply@blogger.com20tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8282904905780175338.post-64928053786478417932015-09-04T18:31:00.000-04:002015-12-12T22:51:14.671-05:00Photo Essay: Day Thirteen of the Coast to Coast Walk<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOFC_H8QEgItbTTbq08eWqpHFcpuEtcz25C7_wkkxGLOtX-TxIM7dwZ7w624jfd748aBqYMHrtCEU07BVCgV0qWtfm0PKCWZ93l-iiOpnqF05719hUSTbsaZqz2cWFb1_ZZ5xA5QYMxmc/s1600/Coast_to_coast_signpost_Rogan%2527s_Seat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="234" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOFC_H8QEgItbTTbq08eWqpHFcpuEtcz25C7_wkkxGLOtX-TxIM7dwZ7w624jfd748aBqYMHrtCEU07BVCgV0qWtfm0PKCWZ93l-iiOpnqF05719hUSTbsaZqz2cWFb1_ZZ5xA5QYMxmc/s640/Coast_to_coast_signpost_Rogan%2527s_Seat.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"Hiking is just
walking where it's okay to pee." <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">- </span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Demetri Martin</span></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggJjyWBi5-QLaMvZx2g-Mp5x_vyczRLZMTVbAj6BTP5ubzkhLjIP2KoLGI4bSC1-l0WiKW9acOihi1BxRykgz5aMQAYj7driWZMSd7CPgnoWJfyowb92VTBext4iS3WLcBHY__KUdvNM8/s1600/DSC_5528.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggJjyWBi5-QLaMvZx2g-Mp5x_vyczRLZMTVbAj6BTP5ubzkhLjIP2KoLGI4bSC1-l0WiKW9acOihi1BxRykgz5aMQAYj7driWZMSd7CPgnoWJfyowb92VTBext4iS3WLcBHY__KUdvNM8/s640/DSC_5528.jpg" width="640" /></a></b></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Day Thirteen: from Gt. Broughton to Glaisdale (18.5
miles/30 km)</span></b></div>
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<u><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Summary
of Route</span></u><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">: The day begins with a two-mile climb
out of Clay Bank Top, followed by about six miles of level hiking across
moorland to Blakey Ridge. The level ground continues for the next three miles,
and then it's a five-mile gradual descent down into the village of Glaisdale.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0_j-AzCyycZJkWsl5gbnQCpA4J3p54NJutjQHTBRW4VRuP5B6ErbatWugQSQiSUhXNJsga4Z4tE0ZTvqbryecihlJCyg30F3Hif9DCFM3QILwTZ7tS-QySKkVZBO05OTLsuBW3EDe1k8/s1600/DSC_7819.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0_j-AzCyycZJkWsl5gbnQCpA4J3p54NJutjQHTBRW4VRuP5B6ErbatWugQSQiSUhXNJsga4Z4tE0ZTvqbryecihlJCyg30F3Hif9DCFM3QILwTZ7tS-QySKkVZBO05OTLsuBW3EDe1k8/s640/DSC_7819.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Walking in a cloud on top of Cleveland Way morland</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The
long hike down the Esk Valley into Glaisdale is one of the most beautiful
sections of the Coast to Coast Walk. For charm, it certainly rivals the best
that the Lake District has to offer.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">A very wet day</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">At
the beginning of this stage, you walk south for a couple of miles from Great
Broughton, in order to re-join the Coast to Coast trail. Almost immediately you
face a steep descent down to the Wain Stones — an outcropping of rock marked
with Bronze-Age carvings. Then you pass Hasty Bank and make another steep
descent — this time into the village of Clay Bank Top.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFQTz4LF-tfCnXYTrLNG3CpRJJclzF0GTmV4FPif8M-WKdESs1-oN6fIzMgRaEYy3emZRHBp2qaDWS5G5DQOfspLi49FsO6ycaR9_E6FqEgUG7eIh-dsLGbpxMrB7xiVZ749tq8zt1cjs/s1600/DSC_7834.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFQTz4LF-tfCnXYTrLNG3CpRJJclzF0GTmV4FPif8M-WKdESs1-oN6fIzMgRaEYy3emZRHBp2qaDWS5G5DQOfspLi49FsO6ycaR9_E6FqEgUG7eIh-dsLGbpxMrB7xiVZ749tq8zt1cjs/s640/DSC_7834.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Grouse shooters' vehicle</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Coming
out of Clay Bank Top, you climb south-east for about two miles up to the Carr
Ridge. This, thankfully, is the penultimate steep ascent of the Coast to coast
walk; only one more left! Then you follow a flat trail east across the Urra
Moor to Bloworth Crossing — which marks another intersection with the Cleveland
Way. From here, the Cleveland Way veers north; you don't meet it again until
you reach the seaside cliffs at Robin Hood's Bay.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2IPkuH-CQHsrw1LSScqCModElLR05PUF8qITBp2DCLJ-esKugE1exxJr_gdSsvA5cYrOYoGj1mwAD8EZ94oaPxo1Ik1hjSd1bEot-mTm8iWB7XklZALsW5gfsrkra_Hh9hTfGX960kI0/s1600/DSC_7824.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2IPkuH-CQHsrw1LSScqCModElLR05PUF8qITBp2DCLJ-esKugE1exxJr_gdSsvA5cYrOYoGj1mwAD8EZ94oaPxo1Ik1hjSd1bEot-mTm8iWB7XklZALsW5gfsrkra_Hh9hTfGX960kI0/s640/DSC_7824.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Bloworth Crossing</span></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">From
Bloworth Crossing the path now follows a disused railway track — that of the
former Rosedale Ironstone Railway, employed by the iron mines near here during
the 19th. century. About a mile down this track, you get a great view looking
south across the Farndale Moor. Then you are on High Blakey Moor for another
mile, before you leave the old railway track, to by-pass Blakey Ridge.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtKsKt-ynROUyHoGBq-L5xsUGnRPipnvPdlx1XEIlFUvde7kQ2TMUmyQDvwVs-YG4Pd3boJX5Qd4k2PQoej4ITtb0lFGAXCjJnhzLJQTz24YczsccPd8EbwIPQOMg-poAiuFP8LUBYTN8/s1600/DSC_7881.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtKsKt-ynROUyHoGBq-L5xsUGnRPipnvPdlx1XEIlFUvde7kQ2TMUmyQDvwVs-YG4Pd3boJX5Qd4k2PQoej4ITtb0lFGAXCjJnhzLJQTz24YczsccPd8EbwIPQOMg-poAiuFP8LUBYTN8/s640/DSC_7881.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">It's
fairly level now beyond Blakey Ridge as you walk north, and then east, round
the southern side of Great Fryup Dale to the eastern end of Glaisdale Moor.
There's a mile of hiking along a road to the Glaisdale Rigg. Through here you
can see various ancient standing Stones. And then you're in Glaisdale.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUJazwoBLDOdyTNsJLo6z5_e1lEiD3qN60hJNNKXR8Tk1hPmvfUuF4Aqh3WF2WMK9B7HWE93g-b6pssbDkxLzgLBkcvTE2XpxVOusCkv0HX1ORuuRVz-99XHmAfgX4abIWgeR5zovBNCc/s1600/DSC_7889.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUJazwoBLDOdyTNsJLo6z5_e1lEiD3qN60hJNNKXR8Tk1hPmvfUuF4Aqh3WF2WMK9B7HWE93g-b6pssbDkxLzgLBkcvTE2XpxVOusCkv0HX1ORuuRVz-99XHmAfgX4abIWgeR5zovBNCc/s640/DSC_7889.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This
penultimate stage of the Coast to Coast Walk began as yesterday's hike ended —
with lots of wind and driving rain. And it also featured immediately a steep
climb from the road up and over Carr Ridge.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Once
we got to the high point, and began walking across the moorland, we spent a
couple of hours in constant wind and drizzle. It was like yesterday — walking
through cloud, which completely obscured any decent view of the surroundings. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwU3xx0b-ln9fTdrbU3My3di7mXpMUzMGo-UPWTA8OCgt42fBlP4Fwt_pqx74Td4-T7UmUk0H8XSIeLp7AWZ_f_lZ20dEENC-FvBd7YVKhhRXH3VAwLin8xNTHVnEz1rrK10fLlUT3ab4/s1600/DSC_7831.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwU3xx0b-ln9fTdrbU3My3di7mXpMUzMGo-UPWTA8OCgt42fBlP4Fwt_pqx74Td4-T7UmUk0H8XSIeLp7AWZ_f_lZ20dEENC-FvBd7YVKhhRXH3VAwLin8xNTHVnEz1rrK10fLlUT3ab4/s640/DSC_7831.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Marshals for the grouse shoot</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In
the late morning we encountered a couple of guys who were working as marshals
for a grouse shooting party. They had a small pack of dogs around them —
probably about to be used to grab the downed birds and bring them back to the
"picker-uppers".</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">There
were about a score of men waiting to go out on the moors with the young
"beaters" — whose job is to scare up the grouse. It's tricky to shoot
the birds, apparently, because they fly very low to the ground. As we walked
off into the distance we could hear the loud reports of the shotguns behind us.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqP6kkkbKX6QAuaoUVbFPNN_68kF2wBytol-wHRcBqrCJ75LgcC55pPElEk1g_x3SbHyBGDV1pCMjp8oref2pPcSTtk7JocNjD4D2JHDqNCz_iAw5MyipouJHRG1LEcnp7krOitjTncNE/s1600/DSC_7856.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="412" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqP6kkkbKX6QAuaoUVbFPNN_68kF2wBytol-wHRcBqrCJ75LgcC55pPElEk1g_x3SbHyBGDV1pCMjp8oref2pPcSTtk7JocNjD4D2JHDqNCz_iAw5MyipouJHRG1LEcnp7krOitjTncNE/s640/DSC_7856.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">A Red Grouse</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Today's
stage included a lot of road and track walking. Quite easy hiking, really,
because after the first steep ascent, the rest of the day's paths were mostly
on level ground.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDe8mIMm0bOfuQCwkpzLdXXVqVcoiFZV9fGmpO7jlEhvJMKhizT-q49O_babCqX_fZAEmmLgJhe8DFKTmXKqCDC8UNH78xS86aT_DmWiGkaT2-oRtBY_XdYc7kHYinFMRElloa_O_fMss/s1600/DSC_7860.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="442" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDe8mIMm0bOfuQCwkpzLdXXVqVcoiFZV9fGmpO7jlEhvJMKhizT-q49O_babCqX_fZAEmmLgJhe8DFKTmXKqCDC8UNH78xS86aT_DmWiGkaT2-oRtBY_XdYc7kHYinFMRElloa_O_fMss/s640/DSC_7860.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Red Grouse</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Quote of the Day:</span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">"I can see clearly now, the rain is gone."</span></i></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">- Michael
(breaking into song as the rain disappeared</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>and the
hidden landscape emerged)</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXA5ox3DDtv4NxNURVd6xC45mK5HIFITC3_DCxn_uRg0VY892WS256G7JF_QY8IHTAQZgaPiifX4qs2SqDb-8qby-ZDva-pWcPZ8QmpRuGdtzxi6U4-Ck5ImbPgO_Ed2pvJwLt7U0UU-M/s1600/DSC_7870.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXA5ox3DDtv4NxNURVd6xC45mK5HIFITC3_DCxn_uRg0VY892WS256G7JF_QY8IHTAQZgaPiifX4qs2SqDb-8qby-ZDva-pWcPZ8QmpRuGdtzxi6U4-Ck5ImbPgO_Ed2pvJwLt7U0UU-M/s640/DSC_7870.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Sherpa carrier van</span></td></tr>
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<br /></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span></b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">We
stopped for lunch at the Lion Inn — purported to be "the fourth highest
pub in England". Outside the Inn was a minivan owned by the Sherpa company
— this is the carrier company employed to carry our suitcases from one
accommodation place to another over the past fortnight. Ironically, the
driver's next stop was Glaisdale, where we would arrive in three hours. Our
cases, ironically, were probably inside the van. The stop at the Lion was a
chance (like yesterday) to dry out somewhat. A pot of tea and a sandwich
certainly perks you up for the afternoon session. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOpXClImM7FNGBn8HQLhG8X8xCt0tBUi-W1oNI85FxAm65dD4_C7FVa36Pxa-95GWNgqqOGzP02qqc-ea1u7WR0jhuCvMpy_F457WeC_KZg2he-JatITCMpTeEBxvaL3ki3YHaQ6-MZ_M/s1600/DSC_7874.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOpXClImM7FNGBn8HQLhG8X8xCt0tBUi-W1oNI85FxAm65dD4_C7FVa36Pxa-95GWNgqqOGzP02qqc-ea1u7WR0jhuCvMpy_F457WeC_KZg2he-JatITCMpTeEBxvaL3ki3YHaQ6-MZ_M/s640/DSC_7874.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Lion Inn</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">When
we got back on the trail, the weather had improved dramatically. We could now
see clearly into the distance. After a very long stretch following a main road,
we got off onto a track across moorland. For the last couple of hours we could
see the valley of Glaisdale below us. We descended slowly into the Glaisdale
village.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv7V2O8Aqa1kDyx-rdqi8qcJuSPkVEns8gtW43mg8lVx1jhoUNIXZoahscecy_7nOWTzKTk3wdtTyotnwKXMCXm4WHjvBdZ09Q6HXyKilU1lf-_coc2jfKIdm6lMe5xkA8X5aa_1fW82s/s1600/DSC_7879.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv7V2O8Aqa1kDyx-rdqi8qcJuSPkVEns8gtW43mg8lVx1jhoUNIXZoahscecy_7nOWTzKTk3wdtTyotnwKXMCXm4WHjvBdZ09Q6HXyKilU1lf-_coc2jfKIdm6lMe5xkA8X5aa_1fW82s/s640/DSC_7879.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Hiking along the road</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Tomorrow
is our last day! Our final day of walking will still be inside the North York
Moors National Park. We will be walking for about eight hours — arriving about
5:00 p.m., I reckon. I hope the weather is good.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzVDH8hKDIubDfhJPv6iXlvUwcPRIRySUknyEAMWQZkcvewMe28jlbyii3wUdsePM1SecKZ8IqXAFFdEqz08Ank_nu9o6bTXkOAKqVD-89XXk83kpoYmtKtPhwQsh84iviTFESClL4bZ8/s1600/DSC_7891.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzVDH8hKDIubDfhJPv6iXlvUwcPRIRySUknyEAMWQZkcvewMe28jlbyii3wUdsePM1SecKZ8IqXAFFdEqz08Ank_nu9o6bTXkOAKqVD-89XXk83kpoYmtKtPhwQsh84iviTFESClL4bZ8/s640/DSC_7891.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Happy hikers - the rain has stopped</span></td></tr>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">“Jumping from boulder to boulder and never
falling, with a heavy pack, is easier than it sounds; you just can't fall when
you get into the rhythm of the dance.”</span></i></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">-
Jack Kerouac</span></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJUqZctb6TooLMVGGc79AAPWc44gUiUy_HOtjjegTmF5PCprfvj2eUp01ZwQ8OwEi7YQoRcOehbZH1vM17eqGCiefqgx0ur93B6oOd70UJBxErbKWtYE8s11Z5Zn3URV4c4P8UJ8DcDfM/s1600/DSC_7910.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJUqZctb6TooLMVGGc79AAPWc44gUiUy_HOtjjegTmF5PCprfvj2eUp01ZwQ8OwEi7YQoRcOehbZH1vM17eqGCiefqgx0ur93B6oOd70UJBxErbKWtYE8s11Z5Zn3URV4c4P8UJ8DcDfM/s640/DSC_7910.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Dedication</span></b></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This hike is dedicated to
Bill and Barb Cannon. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">(see
the end of my blog post for Day One for details)</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbTjeokIyS8h_G6imJHiGbGNPe2AqL03gE1wbaYpNe8E7FA3bfy5w-Gmse9GhF4NPiAj4Yots8vA62rSgRUgp9hnV-AyaegMtpfckDn69Bbn820BoDWT_bxrKEB8bPGs2pWHj__upq_ec/s1600/DSC_7913.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbTjeokIyS8h_G6imJHiGbGNPe2AqL03gE1wbaYpNe8E7FA3bfy5w-Gmse9GhF4NPiAj4Yots8vA62rSgRUgp9hnV-AyaegMtpfckDn69Bbn820BoDWT_bxrKEB8bPGs2pWHj__upq_ec/s640/DSC_7913.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Resources:</span></b></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Coast
to Coast Path</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> (Sixth Edition - 2014) by Henry
Stedman; </span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Coast to Coast: West</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">
- Harvey Map XT40</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPeTdXw497sK5DoS1wZwr_jwEbYFzedSCAe6Y0H4mBY0BSKXu2k9Yadpfb8C0vT76SN2Wa4kt6Cg58jMcHc5tFVgTrdl0k_cj48mYVPhKqcTjEuL1vih3JhemdFvikZCzJ871rh2Xr2No/s1600/DSC_7885.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPeTdXw497sK5DoS1wZwr_jwEbYFzedSCAe6Y0H4mBY0BSKXu2k9Yadpfb8C0vT76SN2Wa4kt6Cg58jMcHc5tFVgTrdl0k_cj48mYVPhKqcTjEuL1vih3JhemdFvikZCzJ871rh2Xr2No/s640/DSC_7885.JPG" width="424" /></a></div>
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Clive Baughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10523779808271053053noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8282904905780175338.post-39242866511796072282015-09-04T18:07:00.000-04:002015-12-12T22:51:01.533-05:00Photo Essay: Day Twelve of the Coast to Coast Walk<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSRkSoGnGABXpbML2t96nH_U94MQDz9sZy4KjqmxMe5IoUvv4Rf-fdfKkrZ5AOV-81GlOMfV87kAw97zvenChP9u6ejj6YoUyR39UtBrG-7_Re7YwNHs7o2TPPclNEyUV3MQ3L9BfzGqM/s1600/Coast_to_coast_signpost_Rogan%2527s_Seat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="234" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSRkSoGnGABXpbML2t96nH_U94MQDz9sZy4KjqmxMe5IoUvv4Rf-fdfKkrZ5AOV-81GlOMfV87kAw97zvenChP9u6ejj6YoUyR39UtBrG-7_Re7YwNHs7o2TPPclNEyUV3MQ3L9BfzGqM/s640/Coast_to_coast_signpost_Rogan%2527s_Seat.jpg" width="640" /></a></b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsP4fUmWZ-w8E6Jhrj6eJbXreAPWkVLDpUiU5DF7fmNZfwsPwckiMKTwsMyCE9ywq3vekHt_i-HJz1RjFCTadrqLALhMy6Gghjula1-D_fjLUHQ219kIj1czyrYG-uTe3N2-zwEzs9R1Q/s1600/DSC_5526.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="248" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsP4fUmWZ-w8E6Jhrj6eJbXreAPWkVLDpUiU5DF7fmNZfwsPwckiMKTwsMyCE9ywq3vekHt_i-HJz1RjFCTadrqLALhMy6Gghjula1-D_fjLUHQ219kIj1czyrYG-uTe3N2-zwEzs9R1Q/s640/DSC_5526.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br />
"In the morning a man walks with his whole body;</span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">in the evening, only with his legs."</span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">- </span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Ralph Waldo
Emerson</span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Day
Twelve: from Ingleby Cross to Great Broughton (12 miles/19 km)</span></b></div>
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<u><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Summary
of Route</span></u><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">: After the rather humdrum, level hiking
of the previous day, you now face lots of up-and-down walking again, because
this stage takes you out of the Vale of Mowbray, and up into the North York
Moors National Park — the third of the impressive national parks encountered on
the Coast to Coast path. This park is reputed to have the World's largest
expanse of heather; but whether you are able to spend some leisurely time
admiring the flora and fauna, or enjoying the long vistas looking north and
south, will depend on the weather.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb4SGTzbE2KmvzJ4WXT4AaJ6EsnIKTcbapwJPc6NpxueXXoVSok3stvHxUqYk7itosrZmU551fs14H33sNON6tyTf0IpstAldCWRyhHZDUHK3mNzrm8EA_OgWWAXTSuJZBHDmA-jTChtw/s1600/DSC_7760.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb4SGTzbE2KmvzJ4WXT4AaJ6EsnIKTcbapwJPc6NpxueXXoVSok3stvHxUqYk7itosrZmU551fs14H33sNON6tyTf0IpstAldCWRyhHZDUHK3mNzrm8EA_OgWWAXTSuJZBHDmA-jTChtw/s640/DSC_7760.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Looking back to the Vale of Mowbray from up in Arncliffe Wood</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">From
the Park House B&B in Ingleby Cross, you take a horseshoe path (south and
then north) through Arncliffe Wood. At the hairpin bend, where you turn north,
the Coast to Coast path crosses the Cleveland Way. T<span class="field-content">he
Cleveland Way National Trail is a 110 mile (177 km) walking trail that follows,
more or less, two-thirds of the border of the North York Moors park (around the
western, northern and eastern edges). It was the second National Trail
established in England and Wales — officially opened in May 1969. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSs7YGoQfdOph4vb_Bi5wcncRidu2j9YTS093S1qOSpnddKuzlD4dpVN3IxakfawDmm9KCtA-slvuIzYQfi-Tqo4Nu6ocu4Z0YjyuAD2MmbhrhossusvNVJA9M0mOKkfYzMorCNwf4KqA/s1600/DSC_7757.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSs7YGoQfdOph4vb_Bi5wcncRidu2j9YTS093S1qOSpnddKuzlD4dpVN3IxakfawDmm9KCtA-slvuIzYQfi-Tqo4Nu6ocu4Z0YjyuAD2MmbhrhossusvNVJA9M0mOKkfYzMorCNwf4KqA/s640/DSC_7757.JPG" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Coast to Coast trail follows The Cleveland Way</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span class="field-content"></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">From
the intersection of these trails, it's a two-mile hike north-east across
moorland (lots of heather!) and along road. Then the trail veers south-east for
awhile, until you arrive at Huthwaite Green. Ahead is a steep climb up through
woods onto Live Moor. After a brief dip, it's another ascent, bringing you to
Carlton Moor, home of a gliding club, a runway, and lots of paragliders (watch
your head). </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Just
before the trail descends steeply around a quarry to a road, you get an
impressive vista looking north and east, towards Middlesbrough and the North
Sea. You cross the road and begin another steep climb up to Cringle Moor. You
follow the edge of the Kirby Bank, and then deal with another steep descent. At
the bottom there is an intersection with the Cleveland Way; and here you leave
the Coast to Coast path and turn north. It's a 1¼ mile (2 km) walk to Great
Broughton — unless your hotel or B&B sends out a car to pick you up in the
lay-by below Clay Bank Top.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg0NyWv6cyl3BXrQu5WCHXkAgwoQA75rH9-iYzQ00DJhYuAo0QJ0mBPZfcZD9-Ht7q9pBhhfDxv0ZjFi1vr6TpdYKEqXfFFX0zPGWRsAc0VVI3F8f4E3SeR6-N80k4ta_0tV8k9tGMKhA/s1600/DSC_7769.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg0NyWv6cyl3BXrQu5WCHXkAgwoQA75rH9-iYzQ00DJhYuAo0QJ0mBPZfcZD9-Ht7q9pBhhfDxv0ZjFi1vr6TpdYKEqXfFFX0zPGWRsAc0VVI3F8f4E3SeR6-N80k4ta_0tV8k9tGMKhA/s640/DSC_7769.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Lots of purple heather on the North York Moors!</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Today
was our first hike inside the North York Moors National Park. We entered it
almost immediately after leaving the Park House Country Guesthouse — the lovely
B&B we stayed at on the outskirts of Ingleby Cross. The North York moors —
dominated by purple heather — are spread out over the Cleveland Hills.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The
Hills provide a regular series of steep ascents and descents each day within
the Park. The first one comes at the very beginning of the day, as you climb
around the Arncliffe Wood, up to the Scarth Wood Moor.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Whorl Hill</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">For
much of today's walk, the Coast to Coast Walk is following the Cleveland Way
around the northern edge of the National Park. We were traversing heather-clad
moors and dealing with high spots along the way.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">A weather station up on the North York Moors</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">It
was wet on the hike for most of the day. We were rather soggy by the time we climbed
down from Clay Bank Top and met the car that took us to our hotel.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Quote of the Day:</span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">"Cloud-Hidden, Whereabouts Unknown"</span></i></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">- Clive in the cloud along hasty Bank </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">(channelling
Van Morrison -- Morrison was quoting Alan Watts, who in turn was referencing
the Zen poet Jia Dao)</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Look at the amazing paving stones on the trail!</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">One
of the things that really caught my attention today was the excellent job that
was done in laying out stone slabs along the hiking path. It got me wondering
what groups planned and organised the long and difficult work of creating these
amazing paths. It was the same in the Lake District: how many people were
involved in building the stone steps that rise steeply up the side of the
fells; and how many years did it take to complete them? It really is quite
amazing.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Purple Heather and me!</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">We
had lunch at the Lord Stones Cafe. It gave us the chance to dry out a bit. But
right after that, we got back on the trail and immediately faced more rain. We
had to walk up Cringle Moor, passing Kirby Bank, towards the steepest point of
the day, which featured an impressive set of rock outcropping known as the Wain
Stones. These are located on the west end of Hasty Bank. As we moved further
east from there, we were surrounded by cloud. We were drenched by constant
drizzle, and could only see a short distance in front of ourselves. "Cloud-Hidden,
Whereabout Unknown" popped into my head, and I began singing it to myself.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">At the top: Tony, Michael and Clive (left-to-right)</span></td></tr>
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Bank seemed to go on for an age, especially because of the nasty weather
conditions, but eventually we reached Clay Bank Top and made a rapid descent
down to the road. We waited for a while in a lay-by; soon a car showed up and
took us to the Wainstones Hotel in Great Broughton. Boots, rain gear, and trousers
spent the night in the hotel's "drying room".</span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"As
a nation we are dedicated to keeping physically fit</span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">— and parking as close to the stadium as possible."</span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">- </span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Bill Vaughan</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The Wain Stones on Hasty Bank</span></td></tr>
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<b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Dedication</span></b></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This hike is dedicated to
Bill and Barb Cannon. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">(see
the end of my blog post for Day One for details)</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The Wain Stones</span></td></tr>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Resources:</span></b></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Coast
to Coast Path</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> (Sixth Edition - 2014) by Henry
Stedman; </span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Coast to Coast: West</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">
- Harvey Map XT40</span></div>
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Clive Baughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10523779808271053053noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8282904905780175338.post-12127260776482926492015-09-03T18:42:00.003-04:002015-12-12T22:50:46.474-05:00Photo Essay: Day Eleven of the Coast to Coast Walk<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_2duD_dSBqsmt0JmhpJ0m_Hzt51Daos9KJfOEZWA1bhfTOz96i4iiHQbe-g1XohbEpKtn7cCMm0ex-P6TsNG60FKzNCaMzv7F7EO82gvv6XvIGAaOpoYuwpxhaFcBryhlAwap2Fp0XNk/s1600/DSC_5522.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="122" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_2duD_dSBqsmt0JmhpJ0m_Hzt51Daos9KJfOEZWA1bhfTOz96i4iiHQbe-g1XohbEpKtn7cCMm0ex-P6TsNG60FKzNCaMzv7F7EO82gvv6XvIGAaOpoYuwpxhaFcBryhlAwap2Fp0XNk/s640/DSC_5522.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9npQfD53Ia5fOtwdeo1Uae3rPOQLpSZXoS1HRG0t1n1tsAhjIqyN_sxQ2vZEFWrGHNfmXgao43HZbkqBa6FtiMZxJ-fnln2NbrHE3RxrLDu4uEfP0yxVT0tQuNY4KoF7kOathwNi5IsM/s1600/DSC_7662+-+Copy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9npQfD53Ia5fOtwdeo1Uae3rPOQLpSZXoS1HRG0t1n1tsAhjIqyN_sxQ2vZEFWrGHNfmXgao43HZbkqBa6FtiMZxJ-fnln2NbrHE3RxrLDu4uEfP0yxVT0tQuNY4KoF7kOathwNi5IsM/s640/DSC_7662+-+Copy.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Leaving Richmond in the morning -- this is the Market Square</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeE7N_7hgHeCJdWjcZxM2wX2mQ_mU0SkeDVZH_G8MeF98Bmx03UJDseS96omiypHodTUoba4eaI6xKPKZbsfWvjHbwwMAuiZch8ndWz4mtRxbDFpsAHUVpEMgaxHVEM_3-5FQHj0Rpi0o/s1600/DSC_7665+-+Copy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeE7N_7hgHeCJdWjcZxM2wX2mQ_mU0SkeDVZH_G8MeF98Bmx03UJDseS96omiypHodTUoba4eaI6xKPKZbsfWvjHbwwMAuiZch8ndWz4mtRxbDFpsAHUVpEMgaxHVEM_3-5FQHj0Rpi0o/s640/DSC_7665+-+Copy.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Leaving Richmond -- going down the the river</span></td></tr>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"I have two
doctors, my left leg and my right."</span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">- </span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">G.M. Trevelyan</span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Day Eleven: from Richmond to Ingleby Cross (23
miles/37 km)</span></b></div>
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<u><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Summary
of Route</span></u><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">: Today's hike is across the Vale of
Mowbray. It is the longest stage of the Coast to Coast Walk — as we have it
planned. But it is also the flattest. And a lot of it runs along roadways (back
roads, mind you). Alfred Wainwright wasn't keen on this part of the Walk — he
preferred higher elevations and wilder, more rugged landscape. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCdwfUFLUWrpwfc-oogxHc-saK13jYx0Uks335Fnj2rZgznghlCAA0VQXbYpsQfZM_J7vYdfMrqxjvRAp5CtsfkPHRbZZiIICPl8eQhe-UTHUI9MPlDZdHqKLYAHPmBzpU7eudoLSETEs/s1600/DSC_7670+-+Copy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="348" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCdwfUFLUWrpwfc-oogxHc-saK13jYx0Uks335Fnj2rZgznghlCAA0VQXbYpsQfZM_J7vYdfMrqxjvRAp5CtsfkPHRbZZiIICPl8eQhe-UTHUI9MPlDZdHqKLYAHPmBzpU7eudoLSETEs/s640/DSC_7670+-+Copy.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Rabbits hopping about on the outskirts of Richmond</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">For
the first six miles, or so, the trail runs east, close to the River Swale —
going through the villages of Colburn and Catterick Bridge. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicJLe0aER_83XtFit07Kbw0OgVd8Ax6pgZeSSv5ENm-GM2pG1zO1ZFNg01PJIsxPoZIMsPY3HAQxNOYtvKN5kndK-WthMnwdq6sQRgxw1ZQwml7LjaZwdyTqbh6vb6fmfBuLqfZ5x4rYo/s1600/DSC_7676+-+Copy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicJLe0aER_83XtFit07Kbw0OgVd8Ax6pgZeSSv5ENm-GM2pG1zO1ZFNg01PJIsxPoZIMsPY3HAQxNOYtvKN5kndK-WthMnwdq6sQRgxw1ZQwml7LjaZwdyTqbh6vb6fmfBuLqfZ5x4rYo/s640/DSC_7676+-+Copy.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">You
leave the banks of the Swale just before Bolton-on Swale. After a short stretch
along roads through the hamlet, you abandon the tarmac, and follow the Bolton
Beck south-east across fields, and past Laylands Farm.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg33o0UeK86VxvKZffIcHkl3NGIoAmA4wlPOAm2uZaoKJ2dlGnXt3cpgL_t6VbY7CtkM_g7UbBmM9yPCi4JhtpnWKQil9_90OY072Vyy1VTXgJh1idhXO9tM8puN96Fiz522_lyO47tC0g/s1600/DSC_7680+-+Copy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg33o0UeK86VxvKZffIcHkl3NGIoAmA4wlPOAm2uZaoKJ2dlGnXt3cpgL_t6VbY7CtkM_g7UbBmM9yPCi4JhtpnWKQil9_90OY072Vyy1VTXgJh1idhXO9tM8puN96Fiz522_lyO47tC0g/s640/DSC_7680+-+Copy.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The signs announcing the diversion at Catterick</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Then
you have a long four-mile stretch of road-walking, until you arrive at
Streetlam. From here the trail alternates between roads and fields, as you go
through Danby Wiske, Oaktree Hill and East Harlsey, before finally arriving in
Ingleby Cross. Once past East Harlsey you can see the Cleveland Hills to the
south. On the outskirts of Ingleby Cross, be careful negotiating the fast
dual-carriageway traffic on the A19.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsw-UchkXSvYEmPxpbW_9zGcDgoIgPDHmaYnUS8AYG0cUFEji3sJsPnRqYqCVF5TwqrdgtxE_zdBM3f8x0UEY86O2FZSLKzjmBDipBZ21UmlPFzJKkBrp0bmWIAosEHZk287lv-clIDkc/s1600/DSC_7687+-+Copy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="390" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsw-UchkXSvYEmPxpbW_9zGcDgoIgPDHmaYnUS8AYG0cUFEji3sJsPnRqYqCVF5TwqrdgtxE_zdBM3f8x0UEY86O2FZSLKzjmBDipBZ21UmlPFzJKkBrp0bmWIAosEHZk287lv-clIDkc/s640/DSC_7687+-+Copy.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The road works causing a diversion on the Coast to Coast Walk</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Today's
hike was the longest stage of the entire Coast to Coast Walk. Already mapped
out at 23 miles, we had to add one mile in the middle of the hike for a major
diversion (caused by road works), and we had to go another extra mile at the
end to reach our B&B. So, about 25 miles today. We started earlier — at 8
a.m. — and walked until just past six o'clock. Subtracting half-an-hour for
lunch, that was 9½ hours pounding the pavement.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXL3AsCdP-TP1di8R5q5gP6vzbO8Jjj-xz_b8CHZ7jTAq8dqLf0_vd26LrlfnHwVhhPZ9X4zUmRYrkCdlcTvHdy5n0SXvTtxDPVfKj3UW5B-yqGOREh3C-3zEmVoNCvosXE6W1DlBxQoQ/s1600/DSC_7696+-+Copy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="434" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXL3AsCdP-TP1di8R5q5gP6vzbO8Jjj-xz_b8CHZ7jTAq8dqLf0_vd26LrlfnHwVhhPZ9X4zUmRYrkCdlcTvHdy5n0SXvTtxDPVfKj3UW5B-yqGOREh3C-3zEmVoNCvosXE6W1DlBxQoQ/s640/DSC_7696+-+Copy.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Some sort of monument/sculpture near Catterick racetrack</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">And
there was a lot of pavement today. We had some long stretches along secondary
roads in the country. Walking along tarmac is hard on the feet. We much prefer
soft grass or, at least, muddy paths. But regardless of the surface, after 25
miles your feet are very sore!</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSGhfbmKQYZK-697NPlGRRM-X3mK7xg9foyV86YSRoE3BGxegyX5_p14NtQtEqB__XkMEvQ0O52LKTcSwAxvl4iTbOaum6kzVoQYhsc5hkBZY1GDN1NMmfCx1CEAXEnxr6KAG8cICkiD4/s1600/DSC_7682+-+Copy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSGhfbmKQYZK-697NPlGRRM-X3mK7xg9foyV86YSRoE3BGxegyX5_p14NtQtEqB__XkMEvQ0O52LKTcSwAxvl4iTbOaum6kzVoQYhsc5hkBZY1GDN1NMmfCx1CEAXEnxr6KAG8cICkiD4/s640/DSC_7682+-+Copy.JPG" width="424" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This
extended hike across the Vale of Mowbray was Alfred Wainwright's least
favourite stage of the route he designed in 1972. He preferred hiking in high
ground and in wilder environments. Most hikers would probably agree with him. Today's
stage is dominated by farmland and small villages. The homogeneity of the
landscape becomes tedious after a while, and you yearn for the walk to end long
before the end is in sight.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfFYri1zuWWFd6YbvPNZ0D1yrrvxadN8842bzrvqbOnAVvkT4_wQCFG_bMzuPbLfD8psCseKnoIqCJeHBPrK8_P4oJLOuOOLp_Gv9ATpWj5bNxlEZRtNQhmbSA6khUpS3BWriUp7hSW1s/s1600/DSC_7698+-+Copy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="358" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfFYri1zuWWFd6YbvPNZ0D1yrrvxadN8842bzrvqbOnAVvkT4_wQCFG_bMzuPbLfD8psCseKnoIqCJeHBPrK8_P4oJLOuOOLp_Gv9ATpWj5bNxlEZRtNQhmbSA6khUpS3BWriUp7hSW1s/s640/DSC_7698+-+Copy.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">First flock of Canada Geese seen during the Coast to Coast Walk</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Quote of the Day:</span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">"We are almost there, right?"</span></i></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">- Tony and Clive</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">(at regular
intervals, anticipating the completion of various stages of this interminable
day's walk)</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9JeEh65AnxJUby5m0IzshjehZHagn-DonsEIeP2Nmh6aFLGZ2_1GOW8ohg9aguru94MhW_Jj1aumxqCFmzDRk2duORAs4o0SVDMBUIFurECr8rJxPCdarlRCZZAo6-UdcXQmVO0CsJ_E/s1600/DSC_7706.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="416" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9JeEh65AnxJUby5m0IzshjehZHagn-DonsEIeP2Nmh6aFLGZ2_1GOW8ohg9aguru94MhW_Jj1aumxqCFmzDRk2duORAs4o0SVDMBUIFurECr8rJxPCdarlRCZZAo6-UdcXQmVO0CsJ_E/s640/DSC_7706.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX3GhbFc2TECTWtYublz2x8CMhNHbA_PGYe1XV_4Cq9SKjYhI72xcCbqZH_nCAatoXKX_Evsqud1mZlxkpWbvhlSNotaf9F_T5oFu-5n7FP-DB-tR9gghSjjPzZMQ7Xn5Kh0V1WFFeFJk/s1600/DSC_7727.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="404" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX3GhbFc2TECTWtYublz2x8CMhNHbA_PGYe1XV_4Cq9SKjYhI72xcCbqZH_nCAatoXKX_Evsqud1mZlxkpWbvhlSNotaf9F_T5oFu-5n7FP-DB-tR9gghSjjPzZMQ7Xn5Kh0V1WFFeFJk/s640/DSC_7727.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">We
saw our largest contingent of rabbits coming out of Richmond early in the
morning. Stedman talks about seeing lots of rabbits along the trails in his
guidebook, but we haven't seen that many. But there was a group of about seven
of them beside a cricket pitch on the outskirts of the town.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcq0U6NWezMUgF28x_OzJD5TeL28dzWddEdMWZoBVXUYHBddxdMBlAfqxBPa8LtlTsq7c27Rz3WGKRPfayD1b_DDdcitTxGvE-RU9Ph7YjXbMmldh0wZd-4-2uDHrvjp8Y7g5Sopi142s/s1600/DSC_7721.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcq0U6NWezMUgF28x_OzJD5TeL28dzWddEdMWZoBVXUYHBddxdMBlAfqxBPa8LtlTsq7c27Rz3WGKRPfayD1b_DDdcitTxGvE-RU9Ph7YjXbMmldh0wZd-4-2uDHrvjp8Y7g5Sopi142s/s640/DSC_7721.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtPzhw_qUlscEALejViKwm3LrBI7nzoX8oBW4mmklJfiRSvP74_d0-ikDQ_QJJ3JlZd4cQC73jDBXCiVJXN76JMT3Jgi7Ayh5x4z1BIigLufmLSC4mNR9fM9WvWkDKLZV4MfeKkqg1L2w/s1600/DSC_7722.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtPzhw_qUlscEALejViKwm3LrBI7nzoX8oBW4mmklJfiRSvP74_d0-ikDQ_QJJ3JlZd4cQC73jDBXCiVJXN76JMT3Jgi7Ayh5x4z1BIigLufmLSC4mNR9fM9WvWkDKLZV4MfeKkqg1L2w/s640/DSC_7722.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Pub sign at Danby Wiske reminds us how far is left to go!</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Soon
after that I experienced a nasty fall. I have been walking for about a week with
the laces of my hiking boots not done up all the way to the top. This is
because the tops of the boots were rubbing against the area above my ankles —
causing some pain. Twice I have tripped when the loop of the laces on one boot
got snagged on the unused lace hook on top of the other boot. It happens in a
moment and there is nothing you can do to stop it. This second time, the top
half of the lace on my right boot was ripped completely away. The tumble I had
gave my scrapes and scratches on my right hand and left leg. But I also banged
the left-side of my chest against the camera, which I had slung over my
shoulder as usual. After a while of resuming walking I could feel some pain in
my side. I've had this before; it will take a couple of weeks to heal properly.
I'm just lucky I didn't break anything, I suppose. I repaired the lacing on my
right boot and kept walking.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNfK42i9pltJXO4-4B2MxejsVwvKKFxyT3gh9stVjSokmFfBE7vCoaTUagBfTiuOalwWTLSZkBbGiTseeXO4x2uaXECVSdkDAdAhCs7_z4i2oSKLhUPAdr2IiPgOR1qGvLAYnVwn1Pu7I/s1600/DSC_7716.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNfK42i9pltJXO4-4B2MxejsVwvKKFxyT3gh9stVjSokmFfBE7vCoaTUagBfTiuOalwWTLSZkBbGiTseeXO4x2uaXECVSdkDAdAhCs7_z4i2oSKLhUPAdr2IiPgOR1qGvLAYnVwn1Pu7I/s640/DSC_7716.JPG" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">We tried to figure out what the white markings were on this long stretch of tarmac: finally, we surmised that they were scratches caused by the sharp ends of walking poles!</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Not
a lot of other excitement today. The weather was quite varied. We had some sun
and blue sky, but also plenty of dark cloud and several rain showers throughout
the day. It is irritating dealing with the rain. You have to stop and quickly don
the rain jacket and trousers stored in your backpack. And then you have to
cover the backpack with a waterproof cover, so that its contents don't get wet.
It's OK going through this rigmarole occasionally, but when you have to do it
three or more times per day, it just gets annoying.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQEjV_kWL6AMNblDow644lPlhgzTVvC9lArcw9tpKpSwCINcvmEhvkW6j_QwLh8irTim9omXm9QObJqU7t6XZXSOGqew9hrMzs82KNpa1OOKrK0vM8mAvOA6WfZVHwZnFmy59h5YdYytU/s1600/DSC_7737.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQEjV_kWL6AMNblDow644lPlhgzTVvC9lArcw9tpKpSwCINcvmEhvkW6j_QwLh8irTim9omXm9QObJqU7t6XZXSOGqew9hrMzs82KNpa1OOKrK0vM8mAvOA6WfZVHwZnFmy59h5YdYytU/s640/DSC_7737.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Warning sign at a railway crossing (the London-Middlesbrough line)</span></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikgLa2LLt7GYfJHl75e_UcgpaJxh7Mhubj1x5D27O4bRBNKI9XzY1R2qB93QK7sFItYk8UKWfSE7wnrJywN5tdXOrtwugvlQ4HVwgvR-EWDukfvlyKPjlbb9-w8Yy_czW1df2HA6XOBrk/s1600/DSC_7742.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikgLa2LLt7GYfJHl75e_UcgpaJxh7Mhubj1x5D27O4bRBNKI9XzY1R2qB93QK7sFItYk8UKWfSE7wnrJywN5tdXOrtwugvlQ4HVwgvR-EWDukfvlyKPjlbb9-w8Yy_czW1df2HA6XOBrk/s640/DSC_7742.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Towards
the end of the day we crossed a pair of railway tracks for the first time. And
a bit later we had to cross the A19 during rush hour — it's a very busy road,
with cars travelling at 80 mph, or so. We didn't have to wait too long to dash
across, but it is a definite safety hazard you have to take seriously. Once
over the A19, it was still quite a trek beyond Ingleby Cross to our B&B.
The final half-mile was uphill all the way. What a way to finish an exhausting
day on your feet. But it does slightly reduce the distance we travel tomorrow,
because the B&B is right on the Coast to Coast trail.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYftX5V6y1SRCnOkME8qvfAawUbN8VnHi2wub-Pq6QdthIecQWglVwiwyBCnGEVtnQA4yLad4xGV5-loSB7RoKDsmznAC5oEO7hf5hFnrtu_4VhFfLQICx8j_d17JIyE6AtOAb_tE78qQ/s1600/DSC_7734.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="430" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYftX5V6y1SRCnOkME8qvfAawUbN8VnHi2wub-Pq6QdthIecQWglVwiwyBCnGEVtnQA4yLad4xGV5-loSB7RoKDsmznAC5oEO7hf5hFnrtu_4VhFfLQICx8j_d17JIyE6AtOAb_tE78qQ/s640/DSC_7734.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">When we stepped up onto this stile, the sound of a hooting owl cold be heard!</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6.0pt; text-align: center;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"After a day's
walk everything has twice its usual value." </span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">- </span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">George
Macauley Trevelyan</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEietZXYUVNJlMpv29Ac-FsPKEdBRn3yNR1Z6HU27Un-76Tu_R9xsjn9UAhv938J7ZjIaVpAI0a1xa6BOumnWPJMOWXisz6r8tTSplWi-Vps-o5_OGHGPYz1OfydziFztLqEjvxuhigvP5M/s1600/DSC_7750.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEietZXYUVNJlMpv29Ac-FsPKEdBRn3yNR1Z6HU27Un-76Tu_R9xsjn9UAhv938J7ZjIaVpAI0a1xa6BOumnWPJMOWXisz6r8tTSplWi-Vps-o5_OGHGPYz1OfydziFztLqEjvxuhigvP5M/s640/DSC_7750.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Traffic on the A19</span></td></tr>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span></div>
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<b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Dedication</span></b></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This hike is dedicated to
Bill and Barb Cannon. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">(see
the end of my blog post for Day One for details)</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKZE8pYf9wWn4wr1BudLf7NQorGLhTp-LCScliqEveSOZs7VJFA4xPapCT6tv_QQfWsFOA70oJg9p-fFYTKEhT-ipxcdWskifrDFMQ4i3OEgw4ktTM0YIcn-q1b4UOmgYdCGNJrjqv1EU/s1600/DSC_7747.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="142" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKZE8pYf9wWn4wr1BudLf7NQorGLhTp-LCScliqEveSOZs7VJFA4xPapCT6tv_QQfWsFOA70oJg9p-fFYTKEhT-ipxcdWskifrDFMQ4i3OEgw4ktTM0YIcn-q1b4UOmgYdCGNJrjqv1EU/s640/DSC_7747.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The London-Middlesbrough line</span></td></tr>
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<br /></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Resources:</span></b></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Coast
to Coast Path</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> (Sixth Edition - 2014) by Henry
Stedman; </span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Coast to Coast: West</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">
- Harvey Map XT40</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span></b><br />
<span lang="EN-US"></span></div>
Clive Baughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10523779808271053053noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8282904905780175338.post-20572298207889283892015-09-03T13:54:00.003-04:002015-12-12T22:50:34.195-05:00Photo Essay: Day Ten of the Coast to Coast Walk<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7ByX2cCpfeLNtZTfRBdZ13kdw-UOrhAy3TwYmMdpqPdFLKSiLvR8ASI2cvvNkP27rlUDG-BW_UxBiaTP2jAmMeJ12b1lsOJqzxlnmew8Kq1kz-wL6wK1EHj_UAwo481KO3O8RGBsQdqw/s1600/Coast_to_coast_signpost_Rogan%2527s_Seat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="234" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7ByX2cCpfeLNtZTfRBdZ13kdw-UOrhAy3TwYmMdpqPdFLKSiLvR8ASI2cvvNkP27rlUDG-BW_UxBiaTP2jAmMeJ12b1lsOJqzxlnmew8Kq1kz-wL6wK1EHj_UAwo481KO3O8RGBsQdqw/s640/Coast_to_coast_signpost_Rogan%2527s_Seat.jpg" width="640" /></a></b></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"We
ought to take outdoor walks, </span></i></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6.0pt; text-align: center;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">to refresh and raise
our spirits by deep breathing in the open air." </span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>- </span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Lucius
Annaeus Seneca</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI88jhZDbDK0L1ftuY-_9815BpHH7-44RVlHSmiNphndbF1gS78cxnzJ8zUjNRNF4tmQGRhK3G4wlQKXGW6BGeYXuE6Stfv1qWSi5essRJs_RtHpUtuk7w1I1C3y6lIi2YKz07lRtFtA8/s1600/DSC_5513.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI88jhZDbDK0L1ftuY-_9815BpHH7-44RVlHSmiNphndbF1gS78cxnzJ8zUjNRNF4tmQGRhK3G4wlQKXGW6BGeYXuE6Stfv1qWSi5essRJs_RtHpUtuk7w1I1C3y6lIi2YKz07lRtFtA8/s640/DSC_5513.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXgZrMOeccst6exmLvCUTLktcmolZoqTbF5AWREAmBUZ912OlQz5rh4gVc8tyuBokMV2DvC3cFnVbqtuSjs9z0ke5W6XK3qEfMvvfzRulgbbXZ9J74d0CrWpFXw4MLpYAzFhJLgg0Zc44/s1600/DSC_7532.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXgZrMOeccst6exmLvCUTLktcmolZoqTbF5AWREAmBUZ912OlQz5rh4gVc8tyuBokMV2DvC3cFnVbqtuSjs9z0ke5W6XK3qEfMvvfzRulgbbXZ9J74d0CrWpFXw4MLpYAzFhJLgg0Zc44/s640/DSC_7532.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Our accommodation in Reeth -- The Buck Hotel</span></td></tr>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Day Ten: from Reeth to Richmond (11 miles/18 km)</span></b><br />
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<u><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Summary
of Route</span></u><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It is a relatively easy walk today. Although there are a couple of
mile-long uphill climbs, this stage consists mostly of gentle downhill hiking.
The highest point today is Marrick, about a third of the way along this stage.
The highlights of today's walk include a couple of attractive woodlots, two
picturesque villages, and the ruins of a 12th. century Benedictine Convent. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyV04E3ELrYYKClSATXWBY8nY8SqklqbNRvaDBTgvtQLpyRpjPkiNoMaXpYakBXdDrCmmoI0IaPMfwQnFi-dd10PWAZlUNss8mcLYr-WfyHoiWqFpPUny98rXk356E6Z7qUgAfUZd_erA/s1600/DSC_7548.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyV04E3ELrYYKClSATXWBY8nY8SqklqbNRvaDBTgvtQLpyRpjPkiNoMaXpYakBXdDrCmmoI0IaPMfwQnFi-dd10PWAZlUNss8mcLYr-WfyHoiWqFpPUny98rXk356E6Z7qUgAfUZd_erA/s640/DSC_7548.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">You
begin by following the B6270 out of Reeth. After crossing the Arkle Beck, you
follow it to Grinton. The beck flows into the Swale River, which you follow
until you reach the Marrick Priory; at that point, you leave the river and
climb gently uphill through a woodlot to the village of Marrick. From here you
walk north-easterly downhill through farmland to Marsk village. After you leave
the village, you get to Nun Cote Nook, which is above the last hill farm. Now
you are finally leaving the Pennines behind and moving along more level ground. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Soon
you are back to following the River Swale east again, just south of the
Applegarth Scar. Beyond the Richmond Camping Barn, you enter the second large
woodlot of the day — the Whitecliff Wood. Once beyond these woods, you begin to
get some good views of Richmond and the Cleveland Hills rising up beyond it to
the east. It's a short walk into the town of Richmond.</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgndCLYaaXlCvnqasMLlT7uviNqe10zl0YHL6BmAaOM3JfRly9eI0gGQvYmrBblkCB8-MeMt2FGqHQdYjpiQxgFW9DA0GcL-QG2fW0dXMybch6g__sZDy9o_7xEKFlXDIZqe429NfvbX5Y/s1600/DSC_7608.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgndCLYaaXlCvnqasMLlT7uviNqe10zl0YHL6BmAaOM3JfRly9eI0gGQvYmrBblkCB8-MeMt2FGqHQdYjpiQxgFW9DA0GcL-QG2fW0dXMybch6g__sZDy9o_7xEKFlXDIZqe429NfvbX5Y/s640/DSC_7608.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Walking towards Applegarth Scar</span></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijo7bqaGxPKRcgthm0nl0SwT28qk-EScsstt2IyVB8yOAJPBiXeHmJXUS4hAmHOcuUXIW4KwY2vFOqTMoi49RX1we09Jc-7T0OcVKrsaybUETi3MQIUh5o_VMCahgd3nreHwxiTYQIx_w/s1600/DSC_7605.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijo7bqaGxPKRcgthm0nl0SwT28qk-EScsstt2IyVB8yOAJPBiXeHmJXUS4hAmHOcuUXIW4KwY2vFOqTMoi49RX1we09Jc-7T0OcVKrsaybUETi3MQIUh5o_VMCahgd3nreHwxiTYQIx_w/s640/DSC_7605.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This
is the easiest stage of the Coast to Coast Walk: it's only about 11 miles (18
km): there is only one notable climb uphill — into the village of Marrick; and
the ground is easier on the feet, because most of the day's walking is across
farm fields and meadows. And we were lucky to enjoy a rare day without rain.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQoFxfTzzyrYJowI0Ds6_I751E7laOb5EHZGTj7XT0BU6X-yg7kINd2Jjfih20GcDDuQsO1nJz-mmLCETUMZRWY5HyPi4e7P2jgMfm4BZzLpkCMmlEEe3Uxt0RfgTX4VGWt_9MLQfJEAM/s1600/DSC_7520.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQoFxfTzzyrYJowI0Ds6_I751E7laOb5EHZGTj7XT0BU6X-yg7kINd2Jjfih20GcDDuQsO1nJz-mmLCETUMZRWY5HyPi4e7P2jgMfm4BZzLpkCMmlEEe3Uxt0RfgTX4VGWt_9MLQfJEAM/s640/DSC_7520.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Breakfast at the Buck Hotel</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfKCuF1RwYTBllpfcWqyy97pJ5lj7Tvy6ahYfHdPoYa3gemBL2dJZAaDpYlxf3y8LqieLhsxiu6TtIlMRiwTE7powvtDHJktYb4eFT49E6eJeZB6VFRbiKacgXgf64gXmMoaZ0FFGu6zc/s1600/DSC_7523.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfKCuF1RwYTBllpfcWqyy97pJ5lj7Tvy6ahYfHdPoYa3gemBL2dJZAaDpYlxf3y8LqieLhsxiu6TtIlMRiwTE7powvtDHJktYb4eFT49E6eJeZB6VFRbiKacgXgf64gXmMoaZ0FFGu6zc/s640/DSC_7523.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Michael enjoys some black pudding</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">We
began the morning with breakfast. All of the accommodation we are staying in —
whether hotels or B&Bs — provide complimentary breakfast. Cereal, fruit,
yogurt, and such, are presented in self-serve fashion. In addition to that you
can order cooked food from a menu — just a few things, like bacon and eggs, or
you can do the full monty that is the F.E.B. (the full English breakfast):
usually, that includes eggs, bacon, baked beans, "hash browns" (often
some ghastly synthetic potato concoction from a packet), and fried mushrooms.
In the north of England, "black pudding" (blood pudding) is a common
offering on the breakfast menu: it's usually a mixture of pig's blood and
oatmeal. It comes as a large sausage from which circular pieces are sliced off.
In his Coast to Coast guide, Henry Stedman advises against too many full
English breakfasts: he argues that the grease and fat sit heavy in the stomach
and don't give the same energy provided by carbohydrates. Whatever; each to
their own. I tend to have coffee, cereal, fresh fruit salad, yogurt and toast.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Row of houses in Marrick</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Just
before leaving, we receive a packed lunch that has been pre-ordered the previous
evening. This is useful, because on most days of the Walk you do not pass a
single place in the country that offers food. For lunch you select a sandwich
from a basic menu, and they add cake, biscuits, fruit (usually a banana), a
small packet of crisps (chips), and such like. The average cost for these
lunches has been £6 — about $12.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Nun Cote Nook Farm - site of Elaine's farm Kitchen</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Having
just said that it is not always possible to get food during the day's hike, we
have sometimes been able to stop at mid-day to enjoy a pot of tea and a snack
at a tea shop. And we have experienced some delightful tea shops on our hikes —
some of them are located in farm houses beside the Coast to Coast trail. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Elaine with the ribbon awards displayed on the ceiling</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Today's
example was found at the Nun Cote Nook farm - known as Elaine's Farmhouse
Kitchen. The three of us had a pot of tea and a desert ("pudding") —
mine was apple pie and fresh cream. Yum! We sat on a patio just beyond a
conservatory attached to the kitchen. When we went into the kitchen to give our
orders we saw scores, maybe hundreds, of ribbons hanging from the ceiling —
awards won in sheep shows. Elaine also persuaded me to buy one of the Coast to
Coast mugs they had produced. A memento of a fine day, and a great adventure.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The window of the washroom at Elaine's Farm Kitchen</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Quote of the Day:</span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">"Yours is even heavier."</span></i></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">- older
female hiker (taking photos of Tony and I with our cameras) comparing the
weight of my camera to that of Tony's</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Me just below the Applegarth Scar</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Long-distance
hiking requires lugging a certain amount of stuff from place to <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>place along the trail in a backpack (rucksack).
The essentials are bottled water, rain jacket and rain pants (trousers), a hat,
a map and<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>a guide book (with more
detailed maps of the route). I'm also carrying my Nikon DSLR, which is quite
heavy; I have it slung over my shoulders all day — as I do on all my holidays.
I'm also carrying my laptop, believe it or not. It's an ultrabook — which is
relatively light, as laptops go. I do this because I am paranoid about having
it stolen, if I left it in my suitcase. It is absolutely essential. of course,
in the preparation of these blog posts. I use MS Word to write the text of my
blogs, and I use the computer to transfer photos from my camera, and then to cull and
edit them, before inserting them into the posts using Blogger. The rest of our
stuff — clothes, books, notebooks, etc. — are transported via suitcases by a carrier
company sub-contracted by the organiser of our accommodation. Our carrier is
Sherpa. They pick up the three cases early in the morning and drive them on to
our next destination.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">An example of luggage carriers for Coast to Coast hikers -- this one is Packhorse</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">A very narrow gap in the stile!</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">We
have seen many different kinds of stiles and gates on our hike across fields
and meadows. We go through or over them perhaps twenty or thirty times a day. Because
an enormous amount of the ground we cross is actually private property (required, however,
to provide a "right of way"), we are often going through fields with
livestock — usually sheep and cows. Entry into and exit out of these fields is
invariably done through stiles and gates. We have noticed the enormous variety of stiles
— some constructed of wood; some made or rock. You usually climb up and over
the wooden ones. The stone stiles might have a small wooden gate on a springy
hinge, or simply feature a very narrow gap (perhaps about nine inches) to squeeze
through. Human legs can get through, but not sheep or cows. We've also noticed
the large variety of latches attached to gates.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Quirky pic #1 -- defibrillator on a wall in a hamlet</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Every
day includes several quirky events or sightings. I try to photograph some of
these and share them in these posts. I tend to fall behind on these daily
walks. I seem to be moving at a slightly slower pace (shorter stride?). Or I'm
stopping more often to get a few quick snaps. You have to work quickly — about
5-10 seconds per shot! Gotta take my pictures, though — I would not do this
sort of adventure without fully documenting it!</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Quirky pic #2 -- yellow bicycle at Marrick Priory</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Quirky pic #3 -- wall sign in Richmond</span></td></tr>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"If I could not
walk far and fast, I think I should just explode and perish." </span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">- </span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Charles
Dickens</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Quirky pic #4 -- post box in village stone wall</span></span></td></tr>
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<b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Dedication</span></b></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This hike is dedicated to
Bill and Barb Cannon. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">(see
the end of my blog post for Day One for details)</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Stinging Nettles</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Obligatory sheep photo of the day</span></td></tr>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Resources:</span></b></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Coast
to Coast Path</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> (Sixth Edition - 2014) by Henry
Stedman; </span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Coast to Coast: West</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">
- Harvey Map XT40</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Colin welcoming us to Williance House B&B in Richmond with a cuppa</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj18TS7RvOLJZccmkBISkZfxmWB4D0I89DZS9nRLFkVg7h2WfF5bUQkTv91c09wB-13od_YVM1i8B5Og92xsBSXDX6ciANv4HY61pSAz8JmW2-HYQaen_8fTFjoo_HIbreQh5QyNUJr3a4/s1600/imgID15507009.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="510" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj18TS7RvOLJZccmkBISkZfxmWB4D0I89DZS9nRLFkVg7h2WfF5bUQkTv91c09wB-13od_YVM1i8B5Og92xsBSXDX6ciANv4HY61pSAz8JmW2-HYQaen_8fTFjoo_HIbreQh5QyNUJr3a4/s640/imgID15507009.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Alfred Wainwright -- the creator of the Coast to Coast Walk</span></td></tr>
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Clive Baughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10523779808271053053noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8282904905780175338.post-67435939046953663702015-09-02T18:16:00.004-04:002015-12-12T22:50:19.472-05:00Photo Essay: Day Nine of the Coast to Coast Walk<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO9t4MMM4f-8GPvdLtY3kN6oy5KvCcNMoottAtDhCvTOPfPT78SMtbQHXGn5iZSkuVwjs41J6EpshihRjYqWVgW_YAyHXkeVh6vZ12rOSwsNSbSpiTh9j1saYqnmnE4q4HHJ3OeM5jurA/s1600/Coast_to_coast_signpost_Rogan%2527s_Seat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="234" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO9t4MMM4f-8GPvdLtY3kN6oy5KvCcNMoottAtDhCvTOPfPT78SMtbQHXGn5iZSkuVwjs41J6EpshihRjYqWVgW_YAyHXkeVh6vZ12rOSwsNSbSpiTh9j1saYqnmnE4q4HHJ3OeM5jurA/s640/Coast_to_coast_signpost_Rogan%2527s_Seat.jpg" width="640" /></a></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"The civilized
man has built a coach, but has lost the use of his feet."</span></i></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">-
Ralph Waldo Emerson</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhr47_NT9LbVxR9uPj0dnm0-i3c6lN3eSswujAkpU4rHSkbp81vvzxduFXBxsxCAtUOvUry_CssQpiUDDxm12NCkq0l1LBl9vp4JKjIVgGeKbztgE7A_7wSn09Dilx8T8KDvIAv7XbS-M/s1600/DSC_5510.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="292" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhr47_NT9LbVxR9uPj0dnm0-i3c6lN3eSswujAkpU4rHSkbp81vvzxduFXBxsxCAtUOvUry_CssQpiUDDxm12NCkq0l1LBl9vp4JKjIVgGeKbztgE7A_7wSn09Dilx8T8KDvIAv7XbS-M/s640/DSC_5510.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Day Nine: from Keld to Reeth<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(12.5 miles/20 km)</span></b><br />
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<u><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Summary
of Route</span></u><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">: Today's stage is simple in concept:
you hike further east across the Pennines <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>from Keld (on the western end of the Swaledale
valley) to Reeth (on its eastern end). Almost immediately — on the eastern edge
of Keld —<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>you intersect the Pennine Way,
which runs south-to-north along the spine of northern England.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzi4U33xsqYzm9JgpphOiHviGNZY3d4X98FHNjKQfcZUPZ263ap2OVL3pHm_Uvf0OnBPnXEbiT9llTYz3vm5bJaxQGyINmQjYdV1BacEv9rniKMB5pgbb5Hlk4rqkr3UVr9qmmXcNbECs/s1600/DSC_7418.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzi4U33xsqYzm9JgpphOiHviGNZY3d4X98FHNjKQfcZUPZ263ap2OVL3pHm_Uvf0OnBPnXEbiT9llTYz3vm5bJaxQGyINmQjYdV1BacEv9rniKMB5pgbb5Hlk4rqkr3UVr9qmmXcNbECs/s640/DSC_7418.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Apple trees done espalier-style in Healaugh</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">But
to get to Reeth, you face a choice of alternate routes near the beginning of
the hike — just like the previous stage. This time, however, there are only two
options, instead of three. You can opt for a higher route, across hills and
moorland; or you can choose a low route which takes you right through the
beautiful and picturesque Swaledale valley.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFvZR-X0H2jqlDwR7yF3z6F5vcX0DgE9yxLg0VyCcGAph2UTXgwGjdXvaElHLqlSIK7YwXmA1BzZSrHgScEEuWGfqndj0yEypkFaSXX05J3AZblZGbcRsDD36K0oIYSUo_g3TyoS_mGTQ/s1600/DSC_7442.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFvZR-X0H2jqlDwR7yF3z6F5vcX0DgE9yxLg0VyCcGAph2UTXgwGjdXvaElHLqlSIK7YwXmA1BzZSrHgScEEuWGfqndj0yEypkFaSXX05J3AZblZGbcRsDD36K0oIYSUo_g3TyoS_mGTQ/s640/DSC_7442.JPG" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Protecting floors from hiking boots in Gunnerside tea-shop</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The
high route is rugged and wild — with lots of opportunities to see wildlife.
There are also interesting historical sites to see — archaeological evidence of
prehistoric settlement, and the ruins of lead mining that flourished here in
the 18th and 19th centuries. There are the remains of the Swinner Gill Smelting
Mill, for example, near the beginning of this high route (at East Grain), and
the extensive remains of the Old Gang Smelting Mill, about half way along.
There are also some scenic ruins at Blakethwaite, in the Gunnerside Beck
valley. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The
high trail goes east across the Melbecks Moor, the Reeth High Moor and the
Reeth Low Moor, following the streams of the Old Gang Beck and the Barney Beck.
Further evidence of the lead mining is seen on the moors in the stripping of
topsoil<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>by water gullies
("hushes"). The gullies were channelled through here to expose the
minerals. The high route meets the low one just west of Reeth.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4DdhfNmN8J7ZHfw8WN4NeUIhoOvWOdrnxG78kZQesAYMkYAAuu-Y4Q1PRs8AqyZnpjxty0-EdqRf4pzAF3Kkco-u_rQpzE9TEjzxkFKAAFG5A5fJ3697eSZBM70JX90i20BX55GSzrMM/s1600/DSC_7446.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4DdhfNmN8J7ZHfw8WN4NeUIhoOvWOdrnxG78kZQesAYMkYAAuu-Y4Q1PRs8AqyZnpjxty0-EdqRf4pzAF3Kkco-u_rQpzE9TEjzxkFKAAFG5A5fJ3697eSZBM70JX90i20BX55GSzrMM/s640/DSC_7446.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">At Ghyllfoot tea-shop in Gunnerside</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">It's
going to be a tough choice of route: the historical interest and wild
attraction of the high route competes with the lovely villages along Swaledale
of the low route. If you're keen to see a perfect example of the picturesque
attractions of the Yorkshire Dales, here it is — presented as a level and
leisurely stroll through the valley.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0Hu0awoSkvCslN6hCo4ZxjrfPXFohdUC0WkOgyQUKHN59x1Ffa_fUR6kJvxZiO9_cnO9_5-PJge4Qpc8yMHvvnocs0oUEzUVw3h92315MpZa_3Vx0arq47IVFQTFmRmAtrCVtfbp6lY0/s1600/DSC_7483.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="386" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0Hu0awoSkvCslN6hCo4ZxjrfPXFohdUC0WkOgyQUKHN59x1Ffa_fUR6kJvxZiO9_cnO9_5-PJge4Qpc8yMHvvnocs0oUEzUVw3h92315MpZa_3Vx0arq47IVFQTFmRmAtrCVtfbp6lY0/s640/DSC_7483.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Coming into Heelaugh</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The
low route is a lovely, easy stroll along the valley, passing the beautiful
villages of Muker (one of James Herriot's favourites), Gunnerside (which has an
old smithy — with attached museum), and Healaugh. The two routes meet in Reeth
village.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0TiuBY0f3Yrez6nuK22hh7tyd4hqQvXrM25J_yPmDq6HSUddzNs1M9Vy7yaYkNQBzUm6piLyijZ1vkDMdg9slVhtEAFqpWtrlmK_lsxMoTUk8doBiwJLDlC4sVx1paOYy6vnjgxZb_qA/s1600/DSC_7455.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0TiuBY0f3Yrez6nuK22hh7tyd4hqQvXrM25J_yPmDq6HSUddzNs1M9Vy7yaYkNQBzUm6piLyijZ1vkDMdg9slVhtEAFqpWtrlmK_lsxMoTUk8doBiwJLDlC4sVx1paOYy6vnjgxZb_qA/s640/DSC_7455.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Swaledale</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuM9SF6yWkPZe_VIreSrsT3SO3fAtMDu4vv8PQYNQkClkmWz-D5ycV9hLzur59TOnHbKqYFdkKGHcXSgczxP_ie_A9rm1rqFswrvLsoRmiD-bwF29u-M5N6QA6Euc1bZGgh6fttpB2veU/s1600/DSC_7466.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="370" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuM9SF6yWkPZe_VIreSrsT3SO3fAtMDu4vv8PQYNQkClkmWz-D5ycV9hLzur59TOnHbKqYFdkKGHcXSgczxP_ie_A9rm1rqFswrvLsoRmiD-bwF29u-M5N6QA6Euc1bZGgh6fttpB2veU/s640/DSC_7466.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Remote house up in Swaledale</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Today
was an easy hike along the Swaledale valley. We chose the low route, in order
to enjoy the beauty of the hamlets spread out along the northern side of the
River Swale. It would have been even better (especially for photographs) with
sun, or sunny periods; but the sky was overcast all day, and we had to put up
with several rain showers.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">River Swale</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">On
the trails of the Coast to Coast Walk you meet different types of travellers:
most of them. of course, are hikers; but we have also met cyclists (some in the
most unpredictable places — on paths you wouldn't imagine a bicycle should be),
runners, and motorcyclists (on some of the secondary roads we have walked along
or crossed). Older people are usually in pairs; younger people are often in
groups of four or five. We've met larger groups involved with the Duke of
Edinburgh awards. And, occasionally, there are family groups. Once in a while,
there are individuals who brave the trails alone. One can only imagine the
extra mental strength required to engage in long-distance hiking alone.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Meeting cyclists high in Swaledale valley</span></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSZQ2kJktcDixoBAR4ZHwM82JPYhf_P4Dl5AxQWZd-E4hztDUbpigjBIwqC22x_RGo3CPwJr10Lpz2K5Dejc5_jM1guRqsYTb3dGjVigq1IbbC5Mhb39FA7s6shMA-oX_cumMV5kPRLbU/s1600/DSC_7461.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSZQ2kJktcDixoBAR4ZHwM82JPYhf_P4Dl5AxQWZd-E4hztDUbpigjBIwqC22x_RGo3CPwJr10Lpz2K5Dejc5_jM1guRqsYTb3dGjVigq1IbbC5Mhb39FA7s6shMA-oX_cumMV5kPRLbU/s640/DSC_7461.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">There
were lots of ruined stone cottages and farmhouses along the valley. They must
have been very isolated back in their time — probably the homes of sheep
farmers. We also noticed some attractive stone bridges arching high over the
Swale river, and some quirkily-designed, and narrow, footbridges over the rivers and streams.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Ruined shepherd's cottage in Swaledale</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">High stone bridge over the Swale River</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Tony on a footbridge over the Swale river</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Invariably
you lose stuff on a holiday. So far, I've managed to hold on to all my stuff;
but today, when I got to the village of Healaugh, I noticed that my camera's
lens hood was missing. Not too much of a disaster, but I do rely on the hood to
protect the front of the lens and UV filter from being damaged. Sure enough,
later on — probably crossing a stone stile — the filter got scratched. Bu it
doesn't seem to effect the quality of the images my camera is capturing.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Cow heavy with calf</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Quote of the Day:</span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">"I reckon we'll get there ... when we get there."</span></i></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">- Michael
(responding to Clive's query for an ETA)</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">You
see some quirky signs along the Walk, as you hike through villages and towns.
If I see one that captures my interest, I'm sure to take a photo. The English
tend to be more creative and more wacky in the signs they post in shops, mount
on street walls, or business premises. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">In Healaugh</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">At
the end of a day's hike, we usually have two or three hours of solitary time
before we meet again for dinner. First thing to do is to wallow in a hot bath,
or have a long shower, if a bath tub is not available. Then I take the memory
card out of my camera, and transfer the day's photographs to my laptop. Then I
cull them, selecting about 25 shots that I might put on the day's blog post.
This selection is transferred in a folder to Picasa, where I do a bit of editing
(usually cropping and adjusting the contrast for certain images). These
pictures get transferred back to my Pictures folder as "Picasa
exports". And, finally, they get inserted into the blog posts user
blogger.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The bar in the Buck Hotel in Reeth</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Copper Dragon ale</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Michael
has pre-booked all the evening meals. The selection has been interesting. Most
of it has been "pub grub", but we've also had Indian and French. I've
had some local delicacies, that I've not experienced before — like Cumberland
Sausage, and Steak and Ale Pie. And, of course, there are plenty of local ales
to imbibe along with the food.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Dinner at the Buck Hotel</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Tonight,
for example, at the Buck Hotel in Reeth, I had fish and chips. A large portion
of beer-battered haddock. The local favourite ale is Copper Dragon — of which
we sampled a couple of pints each. A good way to end the day. And I struck up a
conversation with one of the musicians for a duo called Crackpot. We listened
to them play for an hour, or so, before retiring to bed.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Crackpot at the Buck Hotel</span></td></tr>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"We live in a
fast-paced society. Walking slows us down." </span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">- </span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Robert Sweetgall</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOevV8LHA90oc91BK1BO9iyL2u7Bs4fzusmuDjzox8oEtvSyZeklQh4v1vHnHQuT6ZIObGCKTZig8cJYPesfJzsIYME-cqEsw-MCb9tYivhSpYi6U5NJ7a9CLgusYvIVbbLSp7pd0WwQ8/s1600/DSC_7486.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOevV8LHA90oc91BK1BO9iyL2u7Bs4fzusmuDjzox8oEtvSyZeklQh4v1vHnHQuT6ZIObGCKTZig8cJYPesfJzsIYME-cqEsw-MCb9tYivhSpYi6U5NJ7a9CLgusYvIVbbLSp7pd0WwQ8/s640/DSC_7486.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">In Healaugh</span></td></tr>
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<b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Dedication</span></b></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This hike is dedicated to
Bill and Barb Cannon. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">(see
the end of my blog post for Day One for details)</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3RN0LFXbcBiS62FlKsdy1P9S0nmen4kzyEVHni3NKFwPBKQR-5gibLDNsPMGiaiztvTo3uyLv0QnNS-_CzZc2T4areRaaykBDw0t6BQ2TKCOKWvTbW19n2dqBJUj8RdEO3d-BtXF65qM/s1600/DSC_7468.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3RN0LFXbcBiS62FlKsdy1P9S0nmen4kzyEVHni3NKFwPBKQR-5gibLDNsPMGiaiztvTo3uyLv0QnNS-_CzZc2T4areRaaykBDw0t6BQ2TKCOKWvTbW19n2dqBJUj8RdEO3d-BtXF65qM/s640/DSC_7468.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Resources:</span></b></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Coast
to Coast Path</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> (Sixth Edition - 2014) by Henry
Stedman; </span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Coast to Coast: West</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">
- Harvey Map XT40</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1yyW-o39aGo/VeduZ8daL0I/AAAAAAAAJlw/FtB7ytl3Gr4/s1600/DSC_7454.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="398" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1yyW-o39aGo/VeduZ8daL0I/AAAAAAAAJlw/FtB7ytl3Gr4/s640/DSC_7454.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Smile and have a nice day!</span></td></tr>
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Clive Baughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10523779808271053053noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8282904905780175338.post-56627799819449238902015-08-31T18:20:00.003-04:002015-12-12T22:50:06.550-05:00Photo Essay: Day Eight of the Coast to Coast Walk<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"I think that I cannot preserve my health and
spirits, unless I spend four hours a day at least — and it is commonly more
than that — sauntering through the woods and over the hills and fields,
absolutely free from all worldly engagements." <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></i></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif";">- </span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif";">Henry David Thoreau</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggeSDDne-BYE_jAdfl6ka-PaCs2heEymxm4-MiCAPTpxQQbJNxEfHqlIRxoycBU99dRzUtt0I6XPVBXDl7n85lYbzDi6qi4li21L_sSTsJCEPoqVpQ2Kn1JCmzmQdMEvtxi0TKaayAWhY/s1600/DSC_5502.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggeSDDne-BYE_jAdfl6ka-PaCs2heEymxm4-MiCAPTpxQQbJNxEfHqlIRxoycBU99dRzUtt0I6XPVBXDl7n85lYbzDi6qi4li21L_sSTsJCEPoqVpQ2Kn1JCmzmQdMEvtxi0TKaayAWhY/s640/DSC_5502.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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</i></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif";"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</i></span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"></span></b></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJk2r6r8FZ3RC5-QYPC5hw691toSELQdNnCXcN1GQMQ3rlad7u3_1JBVxhVK33TZAcx6xh0NUcQgpC87uAc4THJmVif-zkCOleSpyDv8KEdqK5HFlkyMuKOaqVbKwsTer2Lyq9BTI0Sk0/s1600/DSC_7218.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJk2r6r8FZ3RC5-QYPC5hw691toSELQdNnCXcN1GQMQ3rlad7u3_1JBVxhVK33TZAcx6xh0NUcQgpC87uAc4THJmVif-zkCOleSpyDv8KEdqK5HFlkyMuKOaqVbKwsTer2Lyq9BTI0Sk0/s640/DSC_7218.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Coast to Coast sign by Frank's Bridge, coming out of Kirkby Stephen</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif";"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</i></span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"></span></b></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Day Eight: from Kirkby Stephen to Keld (14.5
miles/23 km)</span></b></div>
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<u><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Summary
of Route</span></u><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">: This is a notable day: by the end of
today's hike you will have passed the half-way mark of the Coast to Coast Walk;
you will have begun to cross the Pennines; you will have traversed the
west-east watershed (from the top of Nine Standards Rigg, rivers will flow
either west to the Irish Sea or east to the North Sea); and you will have
entered the Yorkshire Dales National Park — the second of three National Parks encountered
in this hike across northern England. Finally, you will have left Cumbria
behind, and crossed into the county of Yorkshire (North Riding) — ending the
day in Swaledale, the most northerly of the Yorkshire dales.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8NUlLgSI8ROzY2LSzDrF7nb71BbonY8MF6npwNSZu4ZVjgGXTPpjIym3h4nW2_DL8ORHDubZdviY0-IF9J3Fa_jS7hgL66vnzQd_-UcfYnNh4s7TfY8nIDVXaViSm5CJaa3DnuuxZrS4/s1600/DSC_7220.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="472" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8NUlLgSI8ROzY2LSzDrF7nb71BbonY8MF6npwNSZu4ZVjgGXTPpjIym3h4nW2_DL8ORHDubZdviY0-IF9J3Fa_jS7hgL66vnzQd_-UcfYnNh4s7TfY8nIDVXaViSm5CJaa3DnuuxZrS4/s640/DSC_7220.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">"Keld is that way."</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This
stage is a couple of miles (3 km) longer than the previous one. It is quite an
easy hike: the climb early in the day is a fairly gentle ascent; and the rest
of the walk is either level or downhill. But the boggy and muddy conditions
through most of the day can make the hiking tougher than it ought to be.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir28IZ56vol7SXmOe-EjK3rruuD5ioAOdUk3Y_wuHFAZmuVH0Gtqhq9z00Bz3zkIbbuxBIYaVFPcY749PTS2rrKjX1uZYodbhRqaSUdLsFXXwaOqgfAZvqido_hS-jn9jvYJjEGGZ2rsw/s1600/DSC_7226.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir28IZ56vol7SXmOe-EjK3rruuD5ioAOdUk3Y_wuHFAZmuVH0Gtqhq9z00Bz3zkIbbuxBIYaVFPcY749PTS2rrKjX1uZYodbhRqaSUdLsFXXwaOqgfAZvqido_hS-jn9jvYJjEGGZ2rsw/s640/DSC_7226.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">We cross a cattle grid about once a day</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZh0ZplYrK6_nkggpQ5i6iV16jN6j1lx8a131TcxPbfVs7o4pg8UTEwVFxEvSLAh1k7DSYDIU4_4hQT2HUPbzRr9Eng2AM1rYVOeh-80xLdtcwmNamW5fuXhR6WLAbCqSzN6XnDdfoHAw/s1600/DSC_7229.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZh0ZplYrK6_nkggpQ5i6iV16jN6j1lx8a131TcxPbfVs7o4pg8UTEwVFxEvSLAh1k7DSYDIU4_4hQT2HUPbzRr9Eng2AM1rYVOeh-80xLdtcwmNamW5fuXhR6WLAbCqSzN6XnDdfoHAw/s640/DSC_7229.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Sheep on the road just outside Kirkby Stephen</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The
first-third of today's hike is a steady climb up to Nine Standards Rigg. You
start the day by crossing the Eden River on Frank's Bridge, on the eastern edge
of Kirkby Stephen. From there you walk up to Hartley village, and then on past
a large quarry and up Birkett Hill to Hartley Fell. On this fell, about five
miles out from town, you face a decision — there are three alternate routes to
Keld to choose from. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> <table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwSc2bRGrJUOtx9BEslwM8hmTKfo-PzQh6We7eqDIKpfvc7zfAb90HwEY1uQTD3qGAGxgeMX1js7UmqgRFFHe4qpxcqxVzPXKzfGss_rkawm6qd91cU7iuYOWb6tt8IzT6p8cmrNL0KZM/s1600/DSC_7240.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwSc2bRGrJUOtx9BEslwM8hmTKfo-PzQh6We7eqDIKpfvc7zfAb90HwEY1uQTD3qGAGxgeMX1js7UmqgRFFHe4qpxcqxVzPXKzfGss_rkawm6qd91cU7iuYOWb6tt8IzT6p8cmrNL0KZM/s640/DSC_7240.JPG" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Crossing a stream going up Birkett Hill</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The
so-called Red and Blue routes take you east to Nine Standards Rigg. From there
the Blue Route continues east and then — just past the Craygill Sike — you head
south, following the Whitsundale Beck, until you meet up with the Green and Red
routes just west of Ravenseat Farm.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The
Red route diverges from the Blue route just a little way past Nine Standards
Rigg: instead of going east, the Red route heads south. It takes you over White
Mossy Hill and down to meet the Green route.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The
Green route is the simplest of the three choices. It avoids Nine Standards
Rigg; and in bad weather is probably the wisest choice. It takes you down to
the head of Rigg Beck, which you follow for a while and then cross. Now you
walk across limestone pavement on your way down to the road (B 6270). You enter
the Yorkshire Dales National Park and follow the streams of Black Scar and Ney
Gill to Ravenseat Farm.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXmnSWso9Hi7b0Q57QI-Ect0VjuaiQ40uRlFupqG4hkgURh0xi_f-dwgWDO-SU2txbuvmzFnXPYu5QflLTHliFH9QwoUVDtdj07Okj3N9wUxcgX9NZ5H6qSRdEv_Yr3daOrtOoPExCXoc/s1600/DSC_7254.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXmnSWso9Hi7b0Q57QI-Ect0VjuaiQ40uRlFupqG4hkgURh0xi_f-dwgWDO-SU2txbuvmzFnXPYu5QflLTHliFH9QwoUVDtdj07Okj3N9wUxcgX9NZ5H6qSRdEv_Yr3daOrtOoPExCXoc/s640/DSC_7254.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">A rest-stop on Birkett Hill</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">From
Ravenseat Farm, you hike south over hilly meadows, following the Whitsundale
Beck. The trail takes you past the Cotterby Scar, a limestone cliff next to the
river. You cross the beck to the road, and walk a short distance into the
hamlet of Keld.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-pIlbMEtFwgYIfTanBPiwDgs_0hs9xe24u5qGy_RD24QGLnyoNnVV2Z6_pRe_dYL66N9jHxmL1MjJuohyphenhyphenhMrQkMAoUeEIsP6VWAN4BSzKvooo7obr8au1DISH8TPUHShSvxtmEvjyaUM/s1600/DSC_7259.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-pIlbMEtFwgYIfTanBPiwDgs_0hs9xe24u5qGy_RD24QGLnyoNnVV2Z6_pRe_dYL66N9jHxmL1MjJuohyphenhyphenhMrQkMAoUeEIsP6VWAN4BSzKvooo7obr8au1DISH8TPUHShSvxtmEvjyaUM/s640/DSC_7259.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Climbing up to Nine Standards Rigg at top of Hartley Fell</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The northern end of the Nine Standards Rigg monument</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Today's
hike was not very strenuous — of average length and not too much steep
climbing. But things were more difficult than they ought to have been, because
of the conditions. But, thankfully, no rain today! The high ascent came at the
beginning of the walk: the first three miles, or so, featured a steady climb
out of Kirkby Stephen, up Birkett Hill to the summit of Hartley Fell (at a
height of about 650 metres). Half way up there is a rest spot — a large bench
built of rocks and stones. A bit further on there is a point of trail-diversion:
you can go south on the Green Route (the shortest and easiest path); or you can
go east on the blue and red routes to the Hartley Fell summit.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Nine Standards Rigg</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Southern end of Nine Standards Rigg -- waiting to be "photo-bombed"</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The place
at the summit is also known as Nine Standards Rigg, because a curious monument,
known as the Nine Standards, sits there. It is a collection of nine standing
stones, or cairns. Both the original purpose and the actual age of the cairns
is unknown: they might be designed to mark the border between Cumbria and
Swaledale (they are placed just 700 metres west of the boundary of the
Yorkshire Dales National Park); and they could be at least 2,000 years old. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">An example of the boggy conditions up on Red and Blue Routes</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Red and Blue Route diversion -- looking like The Somme</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">It's
difficult getting a single photograph that shows effectively the entire line of
nine groups of stones. While we were there we watched two hikers who had arrive
ahead of us, climbing up onto several of the cairns, despite the fact that they
under constant threat of weather erosion and damage due to human interaction.
They had a selfie-stick, which they put to good use. And when I got Tony to get
a photo of me next to a couple of the cairns, one of them shouted, "Do you
mind if I photo-bomb you". Well ...</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Hiking across the moorland of the Blue Route -- trying to avoid bog and wet areas</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Soon
after the Nine Standards the trail again divides: you can go south on the Red Route;
or make your way further east towards the Craygill Sike and the Whitsundale Beck.
We decided to follow the Blue Route. The place where the Blue and Red Routes
diverge has suffered incredible erosion because of the large number of boot-wearing
hikers that come through this place. The black peat has been badly worn away. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Whitsundale</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Whitsundale</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The
walk east across the moor is also difficult because of the large number of
boggy crossings across streams and wet areas. At many places, you have to take
a wide diversion around the mess, looking for a spot where your boots will not
sink deeply into the mire. All through here it is wet grass, heather, and sedge.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwm1B70iYBMufgqmiCqTCeLELyiRHpQzrcNPFn9ZbkZiT6Q5sv8o2Ayogyvu_4P5AxVsMWXKUWjXFG1LHmwvkzTsNvlligD4cG9WaexMXpZgTfczlisxoQjIkTkWcLw08AwMtdAvNKYf4/s1600/DSC_7306.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwm1B70iYBMufgqmiCqTCeLELyiRHpQzrcNPFn9ZbkZiT6Q5sv8o2Ayogyvu_4P5AxVsMWXKUWjXFG1LHmwvkzTsNvlligD4cG9WaexMXpZgTfczlisxoQjIkTkWcLw08AwMtdAvNKYf4/s640/DSC_7306.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Approaching Ravenseat Farm in Whitsundale</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Eventually
we got to the Whitsundale Beck and began to hike south along the western edge
of the meandering stream. The trail all the way down here was also muddy and
buggy. And the conditions were made even more difficult by the presence of
loads of midges. These are tiny biting insects who leave itchy spots on the
skin, like mosquitoes. When we stopped for lunch, we crossed on to a small
island in the centre of the shallow beck — hoping that the bugs wouldn't be so
bad there. No such luck; the midges disrupted our peace, and the lunch-stop was
cut a bit short. They continued to harass us all the way down the valley. The
next day I found little bumps from the bug-bites across my forehead, up my
forearms, and around my ears and upper jaw. Very annoying.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Quote of the Day:</span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">"... drag and plant ..."</span></i></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">- woman at
Ravenseat Farm </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">(explaining
to Tony the proper technique for using walking poles)</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Cute dog at Ravenseat Farm</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Another cute dog at Ravenseat Farm</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A
short while later we arrived at the place where the three alternate trails met.
And from there we walked on to the nearby Ravenseat Farm. Here you can buy mugs
of tea, or "cream teas". They also offer B&B and camping. We sat
at a picnic table with our mugs of tea and struck up a conversation with a
woman who had a lovely terrier with her. She was with a large group of
farm-folk who were participating in a special tractor ride for charity. Just
before we resumed our hike, the entire entourage went over to the tractors and
prepared to resume their convoy. I waited for a few minutes, and then got some
good shots of the wide variety of tractors (some of a vintage type) as they
moved on.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">A tractor's special passenger</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">From
the farm, the trail became mostly hilly fields and meadows. We continued to
follow the Whitsundale Beck. Eventually we climbed down to a road, which also
paralleled the river. On the north side of the water we passed some limestone
cliffs, and a couple of camping sites (including one which contained several yurts).
And then we arrived at the Keld Lodge, which is located on the "main
road" just south of the Keld village.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The
Keld Lodge featured a hot "drying room" — designed primarily to dry
out all the muddy and wet hiking boots arriving each day. I took advantage and
washed two shirts, two pairs of socks, and my mud-covered rain pants
(trousers). They were nice and dry by the morning.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Crossing stone bridge to B6270 near Keld</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Oh,
and we enjoyed a complimentary meal at this hotel, courtesy of our
accommodation-arranging company — because of the mix-up in Kirkby Stephen the
previous night.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-arA1VjpghtiDrfy20H3IBmVhoov24GG9YjujGi5vu6WUtBvG728MQjbJssqgPQ41LGMxK3U-ZDlfI3i6MUTATw30zQcbOR14JcQVTF1-MHXoN5EoL5fvFrr5N9UBDG3WuefO4nArQRE/s1600/DSC_7349.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-arA1VjpghtiDrfy20H3IBmVhoov24GG9YjujGi5vu6WUtBvG728MQjbJssqgPQ41LGMxK3U-ZDlfI3i6MUTATw30zQcbOR14JcQVTF1-MHXoN5EoL5fvFrr5N9UBDG3WuefO4nArQRE/s640/DSC_7349.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The Cotterby Scar (limestone cliff) on the Whitsundale Beck</span></td></tr>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"The true charm of pedestrianism does not lie
in the walking, or in the scenery, but in the talking. The walking is good to
time the movement of the tongue by, and to keep the blood and the brain stirred
up and active; the scenery and the woodsy smells are good to bear in upon a man
an unconscious and unobtrusive charm and solace to eye and soul and sense; but
the supreme pleasure comes from the talk." </span></i></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif";">- Mark Twain<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><br />
</i></span></div>
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</i></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">On the road just before Keld Lodge</span></td></tr>
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</i></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif";"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
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<b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Dedication</span></b></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This hike is dedicated to
Bill and Barb Cannon. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">(see
the end of my blog post for Day One for details)</span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Resources:</span></b></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Coast
to Coast Path</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> (Sixth Edition - 2014) by Henry
Stedman; </span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Coast to Coast: West</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">
- Harvey Map XT40</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
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Clive Baughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10523779808271053053noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8282904905780175338.post-86828349137481120802015-08-31T13:45:00.000-04:002015-12-12T22:49:51.645-05:00Photo Essay: Day Seven of the Coast to Coast Walk<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA9zTIVACzMvxWjXotTjCWEnKfzUroZDbC_LOikTEcM0B0hr_ISd9KE1k-42EqfUDBDOfi-JIlfE4X_gIvBoNhGr4xcu3BdkQDMy4fmhe8SZh2UW7WZxO4xixpxQNQCBsegfaf4YEF01A/s1600/Coast_to_coast_signpost_Rogan%2527s_Seat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="234" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA9zTIVACzMvxWjXotTjCWEnKfzUroZDbC_LOikTEcM0B0hr_ISd9KE1k-42EqfUDBDOfi-JIlfE4X_gIvBoNhGr4xcu3BdkQDMy4fmhe8SZh2UW7WZxO4xixpxQNQCBsegfaf4YEF01A/s640/Coast_to_coast_signpost_Rogan%2527s_Seat.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"Above all, do not lose your desire to walk.
Every day I walk myself into a state of well-being and walk away from every
illness. I have walked myself into my best thoughts, and I know of no thought
so burdensome that one cannot walk away from it." </span></i></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">-
Søren Kierkegaard</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkhnugVhlPXUQhAc3OrKSV6MQk5OVyxxuHjvBRps_LP24t4IuTffB1gecPIp3FonR8x7QA12BuCX6N-a9vWQghp2Vd7nnoRa1-QlnUH0qJTQoWwe0PDnUzrhqPZz04kW7Qvq2CFVFaNH0/s1600/DSC_5498.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="294" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkhnugVhlPXUQhAc3OrKSV6MQk5OVyxxuHjvBRps_LP24t4IuTffB1gecPIp3FonR8x7QA12BuCX6N-a9vWQghp2Vd7nnoRa1-QlnUH0qJTQoWwe0PDnUzrhqPZz04kW7Qvq2CFVFaNH0/s640/DSC_5498.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNLXMBI90zwT-H_lC9DHYotUKI6GE-iOHHDvPIPg-wFpiCU3JE1XOnrwlQnEyNX_RQmlnZpToU0js0o8S73N6gXjmHZFToZg61OGE2gElYuV34ctQb9vM7DBsocfurjvKA5-_oeu9LtQs/s1600/DSC_7081.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNLXMBI90zwT-H_lC9DHYotUKI6GE-iOHHDvPIPg-wFpiCU3JE1XOnrwlQnEyNX_RQmlnZpToU0js0o8S73N6gXjmHZFToZg61OGE2gElYuV34ctQb9vM7DBsocfurjvKA5-_oeu9LtQs/s640/DSC_7081.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Tony goes back for the forgotten Stedman guide!</span></td></tr>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Day Seven: from Orton to Kirkby Stephen (12.5
miles/20 km)</span></b></div>
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<u><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Summary
of Route</span></u><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">: This is another of the easier stages
of the Coast to Coast Walk. The trail continues pretty much due east towards
the Pennines, as you keep the Howgill Fells to the south. Today's walk is four
miles longer than the previous stage; but it continues to be fairly level —
there's a bit of a dip into the village of Smardale Bridge, and then a climb
up-and-over Smardale Fell, before descending into Kirkby Stephen. And at the
end of this first week, you are just short of covering half of the total
distance. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-3HsfwrAH3UNPjMxRLVvyjItZP9-bOYRoAGUsaRW97n5pkgOlvhGj-24SHisgSEvMnnrtH5DjKtFaqBksdUG7aIIX0yG-kAGm4frNUoe4LIP2yZ9Q6uVZqVg5hL16kwnhjzMnWVLA_Ro/s1600/DSC_7092.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-3HsfwrAH3UNPjMxRLVvyjItZP9-bOYRoAGUsaRW97n5pkgOlvhGj-24SHisgSEvMnnrtH5DjKtFaqBksdUG7aIIX0yG-kAGm4frNUoe4LIP2yZ9Q6uVZqVg5hL16kwnhjzMnWVLA_Ro/s640/DSC_7092.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Ponies in a field below the Orton Scar</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">From
the village of Ort, you begin the day's hike by walking east on the Raisbeck
Road for about a mile. Then you turn north up Knott Lane, in order to go past
an ancient Stone Circle — more impressive than the one encountered on Day Six. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Turn
east, now, and follow the trail through Sunbiggin (where there is a great view
south of the Howgill Fells) and onto Tarn Moor. Just as you turn to do a short
jog south, you pass the Sunbiggin Tarn, famous for its birdlife. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfg6vFNSVTud5rkpe3hc_pj3FiUnBghI_Kaeg3guzpckHWW_mf-00eMESS7mJix8CxdR9HJWOezzDNz01bH3DhXAHPt-YcsWn7tepZrl2GCPyLrEovxN4uuy6HpFymG_ytwB_1L3cQTuY/s1600/DSC_7100.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfg6vFNSVTud5rkpe3hc_pj3FiUnBghI_Kaeg3guzpckHWW_mf-00eMESS7mJix8CxdR9HJWOezzDNz01bH3DhXAHPt-YcsWn7tepZrl2GCPyLrEovxN4uuy6HpFymG_ytwB_1L3cQTuY/s640/DSC_7100.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Lots of cows encountered during these hikes!</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> Then
it's east across the Ravenstonedale Moor. Just before you turn south towards
Smardale Bridge, you skirt to the left of another ancient archaeological site:
this one is called the Severals Village settlement. There is really not much to
see, though, because there are no standing stones and the site is unexcavated;
there are a few dips and depressions in the ground — that's about it. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi09lZE6dawAKlc6B52r226D8EkLqyplCtdEw3-VKQ4UTmLdcwU7BkJkssWp_LgUN2Z2mMULAj9iod_DJEBNn7iXYG_xPp6a0DfaMbgfidytVDpUUR253ypH7uO3UIJdPM3s_Cq8W_vwEA/s1600/DSC_7110.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi09lZE6dawAKlc6B52r226D8EkLqyplCtdEw3-VKQ4UTmLdcwU7BkJkssWp_LgUN2Z2mMULAj9iod_DJEBNn7iXYG_xPp6a0DfaMbgfidytVDpUUR253ypH7uO3UIJdPM3s_Cq8W_vwEA/s640/DSC_7110.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Across the Tarn Moor we met a lot of riders participating in an Endurance Trial</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK3bdKi1lbsKznlJABZlX6NJawykGqs4fa9cZyaGM0Qvuol2LWKtEyM1-br7HNueTLDg73w_mrExKgrmUQ3ApmkQVdSywG7Nl2PCI0KqN2q39eRBdaOTL729JpBidYZG88CHXuz2YsRNE/s1600/DSC_7118.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK3bdKi1lbsKznlJABZlX6NJawykGqs4fa9cZyaGM0Qvuol2LWKtEyM1-br7HNueTLDg73w_mrExKgrmUQ3ApmkQVdSywG7Nl2PCI0KqN2q39eRBdaOTL729JpBidYZG88CHXuz2YsRNE/s640/DSC_7118.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">On Tarn Moor</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">At
Smardale Bridge you cross Scandal Beck, and then it's a gradual north-east
climb to the top of Smardale Fell, where you get your first view of Kirkby
Stephen, and another vista of the ever-nearer Pennine hills. From there it is a
gentle descent of about two miles into the town of Kirkby Stephen. And now your
first week of hiking is complete, about five miles short of the half-way point
of the Coast to Coast Walk.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmzBGfDjgUxAtFRgtVjVSckzEQG1EdEyWWHCub8M9rLmoupT9P3bg6qc0sg5RVRLUTHrWnIIugMe8l_l3KKN3H1RIchumdx5sf3LYkg9E35-7i2ZlH4YWymGoZtSc38zeX45vhCzMPw4w/s1600/DSC_7125.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmzBGfDjgUxAtFRgtVjVSckzEQG1EdEyWWHCub8M9rLmoupT9P3bg6qc0sg5RVRLUTHrWnIIugMe8l_l3KKN3H1RIchumdx5sf3LYkg9E35-7i2ZlH4YWymGoZtSc38zeX45vhCzMPw4w/s640/DSC_7125.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">On Ravenstonedale Moor</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">One
of the dangers of travelling is losing stuff. Often it's not the crucial
stuff<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>— like passport, wallet or camera —
but various odds and sods. No problems up until now for us, but we had to go
back twice this morning to our B&B. We were almost to the end of the long
driveway out of the B&B, when we heard a voice calling. It was the landlady
calling from the front door; Michael had forgotten his Henry Stedman guidebook.
Tony volunteered to walk back to get it. And then five minutes later, we were
100 metres down the road, when Michael stopped: "Clive, we've forgotten
something!" I looked at him questioningly. "Our walking poles”, he
said. Strange that it took so long to notice that: we have been so used to using
them over the past week. Michael and I walked back to get them.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy8GBvgML0gdAZL_bIPpj_S5Hh6ioeTTMBbqyBZe-oUU6fLdnaocw1WMffzI3tgq0ccnNx85cspYiVu1UvLZzl6ji5IXf50kS6OPORWR455D91s4ayc4nssBleZ2BrimI7hwsKkY1RFrI/s1600/DSC_7129.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy8GBvgML0gdAZL_bIPpj_S5Hh6ioeTTMBbqyBZe-oUU6fLdnaocw1WMffzI3tgq0ccnNx85cspYiVu1UvLZzl6ji5IXf50kS6OPORWR455D91s4ayc4nssBleZ2BrimI7hwsKkY1RFrI/s640/DSC_7129.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUK9mSLT_tWr4EXgcEY2scr5m6apvawtOR1NYxQjvexNEhwx8ADhNVoe7TZzfDsTt2U-p-lR2g5XMxr4eQMBJqT2sDqbF4nriIuNKaaQrjds_HgZg0FftaChunEHyNMWIw8JlKjM8E9pk/s1600/DSC_7132.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUK9mSLT_tWr4EXgcEY2scr5m6apvawtOR1NYxQjvexNEhwx8ADhNVoe7TZzfDsTt2U-p-lR2g5XMxr4eQMBJqT2sDqbF4nriIuNKaaQrjds_HgZg0FftaChunEHyNMWIw8JlKjM8E9pk/s640/DSC_7132.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Soon
after we got back into the rhythm of our walk, it began to rain. We scrambled to
don our rain gear and to put the rainproof covers over our backpacks. This was
the fourth day in a row that the day began with rain. It lasted for quite a
while this morning, and for a downpour of half-an-hour in the afternoon, whilst
we were walking down a road. We did keep dry with our rain gear on, but the
clothing makes you uncomfortable — it makes you sweat so much.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmXDWvBNIDchbtk1w-Oj7GIOxynlzMJoPJU3l2HPodq9rdvoq9CZjjC1QGXAJ_YFDi0Ba5Tr83IlKw_0jTGTKYSUteptIObaN5XIFU-hhvUPB9CG02ijhlzPZ6hX5YKnF9PR5JJws11RU/s1600/DSC_7142.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmXDWvBNIDchbtk1w-Oj7GIOxynlzMJoPJU3l2HPodq9rdvoq9CZjjC1QGXAJ_YFDi0Ba5Tr83IlKw_0jTGTKYSUteptIObaN5XIFU-hhvUPB9CG02ijhlzPZ6hX5YKnF9PR5JJws11RU/s640/DSC_7142.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Looking down on a boarded-up railway cottage, just below "Severals Village"</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Smardale Bridge crossing Scandal Beck</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigesTfrtobHD1bcg20DpwgnDA_DElrudLHQeljYL56Df7IPx4pSHvL2-VSsimVFzg1Jkkpg0LUPDVuL3Gs0COrp5qFMfNuapcWnIzibWNHlxoqYqirqb9ucprq4C7D1WiIDiSYH-WrhxM/s1600/DSC_7159.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="410" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigesTfrtobHD1bcg20DpwgnDA_DElrudLHQeljYL56Df7IPx4pSHvL2-VSsimVFzg1Jkkpg0LUPDVuL3Gs0COrp5qFMfNuapcWnIzibWNHlxoqYqirqb9ucprq4C7D1WiIDiSYH-WrhxM/s640/DSC_7159.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Packed lunch at Smardale Bridge</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">We
saw a lot of livestock today, as we crossed fields and meadows: mostly sheep,
cows and horses — but we also came across a field of about a dozen ponies. And
then we met a dozen, or so, riders on horseback on the Ravenstonedale Moor
throughout the morning. They were wearing numbers on their back: it wasn't a
race, they told us; they were involved in an Endurance Trial event.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAukFrM5SLxwhMYRotq4ze5zkVsc2ukmL-GcBmqwscTGs0z8Ry7WLJqMFp4_XYKG6Ms6dfxdoDWFbGOtnZDKlOmu7VtSmL8rWMV5H1ZCDYG-cL7Ahpy9KAiJ_b_RjHfRtsw__qx1v31jc/s1600/DSC_7173.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAukFrM5SLxwhMYRotq4ze5zkVsc2ukmL-GcBmqwscTGs0z8Ry7WLJqMFp4_XYKG6Ms6dfxdoDWFbGOtnZDKlOmu7VtSmL8rWMV5H1ZCDYG-cL7Ahpy9KAiJ_b_RjHfRtsw__qx1v31jc/s640/DSC_7173.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Smardale Gill Viaduct, seen from just above Smardale Bridge</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">When
we finally got across the Moor, it was back to fields and meadowland. The route
took us down beside the Scandal Beck — past a very old derelict farmhouse and
to a picturesque spot called Smardale Bridge. We stopped here for lunch —
packed as usual by the hotel or B&B stayed at the previous night. As we
climbed up to the Smardale Fell after lunch, we could see off to the left the
very impressive Smardale Gill Viaduct to the north.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"> Quote of the Day:</span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">"The bags are inside the guest house; the
landlady is in Spain; and it's a Bank Holiday weekend."</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">- neighbour
of the Jolly Farmers B&B explaining our plight</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Are
we there yet? One of the common elements of a long day's hiking is the fatigue
that sets in towards the end — as you get into your sixth or seventh hour of
walking. This happens every day. The Stedman guide promised a long-range view
down towards Kirkby Stephen, at least an hour before we were supposed to get
there. We missed such a view. For the last phase of the hike, we kept
anticipating a view of the town — but it never happened. We were right on the
outskirts on Kirkby Stephen before we got our first sight of the place. Are we
there yet?</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzrfP5h-2ydwUpuR7iSBTF-F-AaZOfECeKvAp3HyE5wCKluIN5_tkUD0p5fMZAbdaZP03JVPy_DMPR9gKz8W5WWBi9SUCiN_u33iZml2woe18cgqx1A3QyU93GIosWCubduZ483YWftNY/s1600/DSC_7172.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzrfP5h-2ydwUpuR7iSBTF-F-AaZOfECeKvAp3HyE5wCKluIN5_tkUD0p5fMZAbdaZP03JVPy_DMPR9gKz8W5WWBi9SUCiN_u33iZml2woe18cgqx1A3QyU93GIosWCubduZ483YWftNY/s640/DSC_7172.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Another view of Smardale Gill viaduct</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">We
got into town fairly early — about 2:30. We found our B&B, The Jolly
Farmers, and rang the bell and then banged the door knocker. No answer. Well,
some B&Bs are not open for business until 4:00 p.m. — as was the case on
Day Six of our hike. We went into the town centre to kill some time. Michael
and Tony did some shopping at an outdoor equipment shop. Then we spent some
leisurely time at a tea shop.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUuVNBH7YOd3AK92lw2D0QOK42okapHlk59bFe7Vaprf8_3tMkEiWqLnRW1RDzurI0GI5lM4EIwbxKTdLgEZ3AL6rOrscyCUmoIiPj_E-b8CSBi2tCHCMDi9QwNSW8Z6nxZohgs0wjYNE/s1600/DSC_7179.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUuVNBH7YOd3AK92lw2D0QOK42okapHlk59bFe7Vaprf8_3tMkEiWqLnRW1RDzurI0GI5lM4EIwbxKTdLgEZ3AL6rOrscyCUmoIiPj_E-b8CSBi2tCHCMDi9QwNSW8Z6nxZohgs0wjYNE/s640/DSC_7179.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Yet another gate! On Smardale Fell</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">We
got back to the B&B at 4 o'clock: more bell ringing and door knocking. So
then we tried their phone number. Still no response. Finally, we knocked at the
place next door — another B&B. The proprietors there were very helpful to
us. They explained that the couple who run The Jolly Farmers were all in Spain
for a family wedding. What?!! A series of phone calls ensued with the company
in charge of booking our accommodation. Somebody messed up, but who? </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Some lovely purple heather on Smardale Fell</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The
greatest worry was that our bags were locked inside The Jolly Farmers.
Fortunately, the neighbours were able to call an employee of the place who
happened to have a key. She came by in about 15 minutes. And after about an
hour, I was booked into a B&B just a couple of minutes down the street. And
Tony and Michael were put up by the next door B&B, who had been so helpful
to us. Panic over and the rest of the night went smoothly. Our
accommodation-organisers were most apologetic, and they arranged to pay for our
meals the following evening.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtnzeqXfR89P-Enqtb3PUlhJrTan4hNHaIrsbhbzHxR76iuk_yPDQiaN1vUw179iCTX1P42zIkoKLaO3HCXT0P3I5hlwG6Qrzk-jD5cxgZgLLhHj8VucvAkyNIiAn8EmofXIbpTv8AZOU/s1600/DSC_7184.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtnzeqXfR89P-Enqtb3PUlhJrTan4hNHaIrsbhbzHxR76iuk_yPDQiaN1vUw179iCTX1P42zIkoKLaO3HCXT0P3I5hlwG6Qrzk-jD5cxgZgLLhHj8VucvAkyNIiAn8EmofXIbpTv8AZOU/s640/DSC_7184.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">We see loads of sheep and rams on these hikes</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">For
dinner we went into the centre of town to the Mango Tree, an Indian restaurant.
It was a nice change from the usual "pub grub". A bottle of veneto
Pinot Grigio washed it down nicely. An evening that was threatening to be a
complete disaster turned out well.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNVHalIwAC81dfQHYfi1xqYFkOtuly7P6B1dD18obN0EdN5hRMv-LSwWTiHZWBsyMq1IvyPW8_6r_pZc_4q4YC6a4_ecXy21ov7bUp3bangNbV612Q2ezfH-OAs4mmKNlaTJXAqsVdXE8/s1600/DSC_7190.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNVHalIwAC81dfQHYfi1xqYFkOtuly7P6B1dD18obN0EdN5hRMv-LSwWTiHZWBsyMq1IvyPW8_6r_pZc_4q4YC6a4_ecXy21ov7bUp3bangNbV612Q2ezfH-OAs4mmKNlaTJXAqsVdXE8/s640/DSC_7190.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Heading underneath a railway bridge near Kirkby Stephen</span></td></tr>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"I
haven't got any special religion this morning. My God is the God of Walkers. </span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">If you walk hard enough, you probably don't need
any other god." <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif";">- </span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif";">Bruce Chatwin<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><br />
<br />
</i></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ2FCDLpElZGmW0YtGMRnlbifTyYkuq6mcbyPaACSMDRAU049SYlQ-K82b71c0fZSs6Af1hHzhW51bLXPwMxDJRnpDvRKia_a2E_XhRFyV6cHN4ud70qHd8F76n_oUhDbK8y-8ESdfru8/s1600/DSC_7195.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ2FCDLpElZGmW0YtGMRnlbifTyYkuq6mcbyPaACSMDRAU049SYlQ-K82b71c0fZSs6Af1hHzhW51bLXPwMxDJRnpDvRKia_a2E_XhRFyV6cHN4ud70qHd8F76n_oUhDbK8y-8ESdfru8/s640/DSC_7195.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Going under another railway bridge -- just as a train goes by!</span></td></tr>
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<b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Dedication</span></b></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This hike is dedicated to
Bill and Barb Cannon. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">(see
the end of my blog post for Day One for details)</span></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0GzGfDph8j9ry4quBc2xes4FnAOAIGg8tLITmv_ki8x5nH8AhDi2GRwkt9GsokSLMBj_9_DP4uoCl-TF60FgNvx_gPkxMFL-9QI1ffYJv2E1Yt16RHEL5F5t8-6DRrBwazbYhr4vej5A/s1600/DSC_7136.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0GzGfDph8j9ry4quBc2xes4FnAOAIGg8tLITmv_ki8x5nH8AhDi2GRwkt9GsokSLMBj_9_DP4uoCl-TF60FgNvx_gPkxMFL-9QI1ffYJv2E1Yt16RHEL5F5t8-6DRrBwazbYhr4vej5A/s640/DSC_7136.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Resources:</span></b></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Coast
to Coast Path</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> (Sixth Edition - 2014) by Henry
Stedman; </span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Coast to Coast: West</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">
- Harvey Map XT40</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKZvFlJcQ7ckMAGAELFZ5TNWi8kpQAhqru42eXzyL8B9AQtlrFCdzlv7y-oQatGwgtEzfUr8UG5pVTxXi8jdSGzPextVn7tESM5fpcxs8L-sKFyM-pGfRKNV7T3vqHw-bKpQ2gREaW30c/s1600/DSC_7186.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKZvFlJcQ7ckMAGAELFZ5TNWi8kpQAhqru42eXzyL8B9AQtlrFCdzlv7y-oQatGwgtEzfUr8UG5pVTxXi8jdSGzPextVn7tESM5fpcxs8L-sKFyM-pGfRKNV7T3vqHw-bKpQ2gREaW30c/s640/DSC_7186.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US"> </span></div>
Clive Baughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10523779808271053053noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8282904905780175338.post-38408225906545338232015-08-29T18:08:00.000-04:002015-12-12T22:49:38.655-05:00Photo Essay: Day Six of the Coast to Coast Walk<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7MLM8cBqUvFISQSicfGTBEadWUfS1usjwHd_vIXXjO3ExmR88D_XGbTAw7dgKUQD1S_Vvxq2K6xEn7gyQwI2Lg3LIDQPgjCV4ObvNk7stgTtC-MVU_DKkdpA62nlcbNHfCvXBbDSF64E/s1600/Coast_to_coast_signpost_Rogan%2527s_Seat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="234" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7MLM8cBqUvFISQSicfGTBEadWUfS1usjwHd_vIXXjO3ExmR88D_XGbTAw7dgKUQD1S_Vvxq2K6xEn7gyQwI2Lg3LIDQPgjCV4ObvNk7stgTtC-MVU_DKkdpA62nlcbNHfCvXBbDSF64E/s640/Coast_to_coast_signpost_Rogan%2527s_Seat.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<br />
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<br />
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></i><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">
"Thoughts come clearly while one walks." </span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">- </span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Thomas Mann</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</i></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</i></span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></b></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaX9nGTmwb0E_BFAl7MSlq59sLDC5O8K-E_CULnADfyGSMYNIexdSv7cenvyrgFS-S-uUTucB6qIX-yFmx8jr6AyEldkHb6oVuA1oM7N-n9uW2Ixnbpj8bSuYvvxCvb33CrVuk14-X3_I/s1600/DSC_5498.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="294" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaX9nGTmwb0E_BFAl7MSlq59sLDC5O8K-E_CULnADfyGSMYNIexdSv7cenvyrgFS-S-uUTucB6qIX-yFmx8jr6AyEldkHb6oVuA1oM7N-n9uW2Ixnbpj8bSuYvvxCvb33CrVuk14-X3_I/s640/DSC_5498.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</i></span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></b></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Day Six: from Shap to Orton (8 miles/13 km)</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<u><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Summary
of Route</span></u><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">: This stage is a great relief after the
rigors of the last four days. Today is definitely a recovery day. The arduous
up-and-down gradients on the rocky trails of the Lakeland fells are gone; now
you stroll your way across the Westmorland Plateau on grassy trails, which sit
on well-drained limestone bedrock. It's mostly fields and moorland, as you pass
the Howgill Fells to the south. Ahead of you lie the Pennines.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwEpxnZVJq8RW0hchpUkrfA5iRefIUqB5kpvKx3OFiJvFATQ6aS54LAXh0zDDbizDSt_Ro_hI4LVTHok4T9RUydQQmUpI0dues93JfEZn-5_M0ZU-vAj2ac9xUHvOePsNoNQx0Y8lBtts/s1600/DSC_6933.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwEpxnZVJq8RW0hchpUkrfA5iRefIUqB5kpvKx3OFiJvFATQ6aS54LAXh0zDDbizDSt_Ro_hI4LVTHok4T9RUydQQmUpI0dues93JfEZn-5_M0ZU-vAj2ac9xUHvOePsNoNQx0Y8lBtts/s640/DSC_6933.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Coast to Coat Walk sign just outside Shap</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge_KkRsTBtxDrzC-FdCu_a9uQn4Pptm1PDKTZM0R9vG0H2SbgO95uilCAKGc2TwJZQbCD2fLO1c5kt01GjwZo3Ex8bwTCTYbuIkj7glAYrGBRsC86GmnN7-UIka9AH2my0NZtxMbWp8Dc/s1600/DSC_6938.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge_KkRsTBtxDrzC-FdCu_a9uQn4Pptm1PDKTZM0R9vG0H2SbgO95uilCAKGc2TwJZQbCD2fLO1c5kt01GjwZo3Ex8bwTCTYbuIkj7glAYrGBRsC86GmnN7-UIka9AH2my0NZtxMbWp8Dc/s640/DSC_6938.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Coming
out of Shap, you cross the railway line and then go over the M6 motorway. Just
pass the walled village of Oddendale, a couple of hundred metres west of the
trail, sit two concentric stone circles that date back to about 4000 B.C.E.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEievIKVG-ZNQCuUZW17kcdgG7qt9F_YrBU6Zp8522LlcR9ke8JZ4g9a0PJeewr4ghxHm2c8QxoWrUiZ0zF-cQWKiNvpF9tTVivQV3KEdkdr3F6LOfT1O1lsr19a3rLjy1OBOj1bin9_iTY/s1600/DSC_6943.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEievIKVG-ZNQCuUZW17kcdgG7qt9F_YrBU6Zp8522LlcR9ke8JZ4g9a0PJeewr4ghxHm2c8QxoWrUiZ0zF-cQWKiNvpF9tTVivQV3KEdkdr3F6LOfT1O1lsr19a3rLjy1OBOj1bin9_iTY/s640/DSC_6943.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Me on the footbridge over the M6</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx7VzJ1j7MfV0_55xWLFVFYXZS9HQgG6VUELIiotDE_bfwEFsP6_uVKe0D9jTZ3CpRY7bnoHdVVDoqvUCtscuDcZ3rnYi6nZFMSj_5fTQRGWm_wtKfECc_svEAhycVgMcadxkgqOxc4iQ/s1600/DSC_6947.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx7VzJ1j7MfV0_55xWLFVFYXZS9HQgG6VUELIiotDE_bfwEFsP6_uVKe0D9jTZ3CpRY7bnoHdVVDoqvUCtscuDcZ3rnYi6nZFMSj_5fTQRGWm_wtKfECc_svEAhycVgMcadxkgqOxc4iQ/s640/DSC_6947.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Traffic on the M6</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Along
this part of the trail<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>— as you head
south into Lyvennet Beck — there are lots of outcroppings of limestone pavement. Soon you turn east, and then north-east, as you skirt Crosby Ravensworth Fell
to the north, and pass a cairn marking Robin Hood's Grave (not the actual grave
of the legendary outlaw of Sherwood Forest). The trail descends now along a
road which soon meets the B6260. Just past a preserved lime kiln, you turn right
to skirt Broadfell Farm; from here, it is just under a mile to our destination,
the village of Orton.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
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<span style="font-size: small;">Tony hiking</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">We
are now outside the Lake District. Today's hike has been primarily across farm
fields and meadows, and over barren moorland that is strikingly bereft of trees
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>— <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>but decorated by purple heather. A
boundary-marker of this change in landscape appeared soon after our departure
from Shap. We had to take an elevated footpath over the M6 motorway. As we
stood above the busy motorway, we could see the outline of the Lakeland fells
behind us; and to the east we could the Pennine Hills to come.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Michael greets foal in farm yard</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">We
endured wet conditions today: the fields and meadows were soggy and muddy; the
moors were damp and boggy. To top it off, it was raining again at the start of
today's hike (for the third day in a row), and for the second half of the walk
the rain was pouring down — water was dripping steadily off the brim of my
Tilley hat. By the time we got to Orton we took immediate shelter in a
cafe/deli, and tried to dry out over lunch. The potato and leek soup was very
welcome! Then we walked down to our B&B, the Barn House, a beautifully renovated old building.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtCa7Vx02CmGYe9rngjhyphenhyphen53kyUK6_yBAT9OFe-AKlYF90aRcU-4u7uHI69xDWD5elHfrJgWpm1lNFzygKEi2e-fj_AjXX_hq_30gzWe0HrhM-1Bw-N1NY5dh9qtmaBO_ayeXBjkZLcJyc/s1600/DSC_6957.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtCa7Vx02CmGYe9rngjhyphenhyphen53kyUK6_yBAT9OFe-AKlYF90aRcU-4u7uHI69xDWD5elHfrJgWpm1lNFzygKEi2e-fj_AjXX_hq_30gzWe0HrhM-1Bw-N1NY5dh9qtmaBO_ayeXBjkZLcJyc/s640/DSC_6957.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Quote of the Day:</span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">""Shap is crap."</span></i></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">- Tony (not
too enamoured with this Cumbrian stopover) </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Me by Coast to Coast sign -- M6 in background</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> We
saw some new things today. Across the moorland we encountered the skeletal
remains of a couple of sheep — bones strewn across the ground — and several
rabbits. The rabbit carcasses had not been fully reduced to mere bones — more
recent victims, perhaps, of their predators. They would be more vulnerable out
on the open spaces of the moors, with fewer places to hide.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">On
our walk across the moorland we also saw a half-dozen outcroppings of exposed
limestone. They reminded me of karst formations in Ontario. Here they are
referred to as limestone pavements. These fairly small patches of grey rock
contrast visually with the short-cropped green grass and the purple heather.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Limestone pavement on Crosby Ravensworth Fell</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Me and large boulder on Crosby Ravensworth Fell</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Today
was a recovery day. After the gruelling marathon we endured yesterday, this was
an easy hike: it was only 8 miles, and we had very little steep walking to deal
with. We were done by early afternoon — giving us a chance to rest our legs and
feet for several extra hours. We have liked what we've seen of the village of
Orton — particularly the All Saints Church (I posted a dozen photographs of it
on Facebook). Tomorrow we move on to Kirkby Stephen; it should be another
relatively easy hike (about 12 miles over mostly level terrain).</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Rabbit remains on moorland</span></td></tr>
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"But in every walk with Nature one receives far more than he seeks."</span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">- </span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">John Muir</span></div>
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<b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Dedication</span></b></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This hike is dedicated to
Bill and Barb Cannon. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">(see
the end of my blog post for Day One for details)</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Family we have met several times on the trail having lunch</span></td></tr>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Resources:</span></b></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Coast
to Coast Path</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> (Sixth Edition - 2014) by Henry
Stedman; </span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Coast to Coast: West</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">
- Harvey Map XT40</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Left-to-right: Michael, Tony & Clive</span></td></tr>
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Clive Baughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10523779808271053053noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8282904905780175338.post-55685303453310263552015-08-29T17:17:00.001-04:002015-12-12T22:49:24.768-05:00Photo Essay: Day Five of the Coast to Coast Walk<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqGzuBbtA1xw4rjYNcWmZd_rgkMgd7Vwv276201bRkb9g6Rkx7IBYlCSKTsLIfstmoplvblWaFBtwtiZ84Og3LQW2VmNLCCLZlTAcLWAclDFPwdIRKYePquIHoAFMILAU7hPdNxKgqIF8/s1600/Coast_to_coast_signpost_Rogan%2527s_Seat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="234" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqGzuBbtA1xw4rjYNcWmZd_rgkMgd7Vwv276201bRkb9g6Rkx7IBYlCSKTsLIfstmoplvblWaFBtwtiZ84Og3LQW2VmNLCCLZlTAcLWAclDFPwdIRKYePquIHoAFMILAU7hPdNxKgqIF8/s640/Coast_to_coast_signpost_Rogan%2527s_Seat.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; line-height: 115%;">"My
father considered a walk among the mountains </span></i></div>
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<i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; line-height: 115%;"> as the equivalent of
churchgoing."</span></i></div>
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<i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; line-height: 115%;">- </span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; line-height: 115%;">Aldous Huxley</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtkFjvDFadpz_PI9UMszCd5C4TXwOaSZ6jcYRqRvPFdW05u8-3b7b28Vw97rJjbEpXLBaNRtN0-M3geD21rgY3fnd0-mZzCTVwQOEARxr4njUehu0gwBPtOlMnK_bdUskhXf0rYbE1KaQ/s1600/DSC_5496.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtkFjvDFadpz_PI9UMszCd5C4TXwOaSZ6jcYRqRvPFdW05u8-3b7b28Vw97rJjbEpXLBaNRtN0-M3geD21rgY3fnd0-mZzCTVwQOEARxr4njUehu0gwBPtOlMnK_bdUskhXf0rYbE1KaQ/s640/DSC_5496.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; line-height: 115%;">Day Five: from Patterdale to Shap (16 miles/26 km)</span></b></div>
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<u><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; line-height: 115%;">Summary
of Route</span></u><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; line-height: 115%;">: By the end of this stage, you will
beyond the eastern border of the Lake District National Park. The first-third
of today's hike features a continuous climb up to Kidsty Pike. You begin
walking up a ramp on the eastern end of Patterdale. You rise steadily to a
platform called Boredale Hause. Then you continue climbing south-east to
Angletarn Pike. From here you descend to Angle Tarn and Satura Crag. Another
climb upwards takes you to The Knott and, finally, to Kidsty Pike, the high
point of the day. </span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib95CU6rrPXSiSwOeCSR-jNXqq9tdyJ_efSOSgLyDU5ESaRVJTD7m9CLQ0iBy2GF8UVPS9cfZzfOBLM3yurJpx3-FPMdf2esBoed0haxRXCTS13O-2kEI9f0JbOMH-OyP-ZgEf2Nfi-C8/s1600/DSC_6844.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib95CU6rrPXSiSwOeCSR-jNXqq9tdyJ_efSOSgLyDU5ESaRVJTD7m9CLQ0iBy2GF8UVPS9cfZzfOBLM3yurJpx3-FPMdf2esBoed0haxRXCTS13O-2kEI9f0JbOMH-OyP-ZgEf2Nfi-C8/s640/DSC_6844.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Climbing out of Patterdale</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; line-height: 115%;"> </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; line-height: 115%;">Kidsty
Pike (784 m) was the highest point on the original Coast to Coast Walk, before
several alternate high-routes were added later. From here, if you look back to
the west, you can see Ennerdale Water, Scafell Pike, Helvellyn and St Sunday
Crag.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSXclLKIDPb_kRISJoJdr3Pcaq7-TomSUS8BySXPflI8GnI1ufLY2IJrYpnT8gqtm5bG7s3ird60OwS8M8-Ce6sIBMEt1a8ohY_yvznebUc3IzlpfBDE2PPdf5wQlL7zIcM9gLAFI0D5c/s1600/DSC_6847.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSXclLKIDPb_kRISJoJdr3Pcaq7-TomSUS8BySXPflI8GnI1ufLY2IJrYpnT8gqtm5bG7s3ird60OwS8M8-Ce6sIBMEt1a8ohY_yvznebUc3IzlpfBDE2PPdf5wQlL7zIcM9gLAFI0D5c/s400/DSC_6847.JPG" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Looking back going up to Boredale Hause</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; line-height: 115%;">Now
you face a steep descent to the Haweswater Reservoir. Haweswater was originally
a rather small lake, but in 1929 a large reservoir was established — by
building a large concrete dam at the northern end of the lake — in order to
provide fresh water for the residents of Manchester.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; line-height: 115%;">The
trail is now level, and it follows the western side of Haweswater to the
village of Burnbanks, which sits at the head of the Reservoir. From here it is
an easy walk for about five miles along level ground and soft grass to the
village of Shap. On the outskirts of the village, you pass Shap Abbey (founded
in 1195, and dissolved by Henry VIII in 1540) which is located right on the
eastern edge of Lake District National Park.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; line-height: 115%;">Today's
hike turned into the longest and most gruelling hike of the Walk so far. It was
supposed to be about the same length as Day Two — sixteen miles — but because
we took a wrong turn on the trail, near Kidsty Pike, we added about three miles
and roughly two hours to the day's walk. We arrived in Shap at 6:45 p.m. —
almost ten hours after leaving Patterdale. On top of that unforeseen problem
with the route, we also encountered some really bad weather.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEKR3G0NehMpMxVqdRXO5wvjHe10kUF_QJrHlmFzRZ2DvBQdiHUvcFrR9j1-9lHtXOK4NEK4i6ny7Mwaps6WuVXLeulovulQbkTF56zacye5PdAHQzYfFZU9dA7wvTz4O8ZaaNm6W2Yyg/s1600/DSC_6866.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEKR3G0NehMpMxVqdRXO5wvjHe10kUF_QJrHlmFzRZ2DvBQdiHUvcFrR9j1-9lHtXOK4NEK4i6ny7Mwaps6WuVXLeulovulQbkTF56zacye5PdAHQzYfFZU9dA7wvTz4O8ZaaNm6W2Yyg/s640/DSC_6866.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Michael and Tony approach Angle Tarn - we soon faced howling wind and driving rain</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; line-height: 115%;">Football,
as the cliché would have it, is a "game of two halves"; the second
half of a match is often dramatically different to the first 45 minutes. The
daily hikes of the Coast to Coast Walk have been like that too. Half of each hike
has been on fairly level ground; half has involved a steep climb up to the
high-point of the day, followed by an often steeper descent. For the first four
days, the high walking has come in the second part of the trail; but on this
fifth day, the tough climb came first, followed by a fairly level walk for the
rest of the day.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; line-height: 115%;">In
his Coast to Coast guide, Henry Steadman points out that this final stage of
the Walk inside the Lake District is no easy farewell to the land of fells and
valleys. It is just as challenging as the previous stages; you may be fitter
and more fully-adapted now to the rigors of Lakeland, but — partly because of
its sheer length —it is still a hard slog.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhezCrsntJyAl0zJhGpizIbazX5vCyxGD-51wCJCWKEa48IeeadHnQUjpEk2yxE7WJdC0cHgfjJcWOk-NWfhQ42a_YLN3iAiucg0VVcoUgw8FQAH1eKu1HM95m9XAYdelgynTFtfYBB2rQ/s640/DSC_6870.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Captain Robert Scott and Captain Titus Oates? At the highest point on the eastern fells: High Street</span></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEKR3G0NehMpMxVqdRXO5wvjHe10kUF_QJrHlmFzRZ2DvBQdiHUvcFrR9j1-9lHtXOK4NEK4i6ny7Mwaps6WuVXLeulovulQbkTF56zacye5PdAHQzYfFZU9dA7wvTz4O8ZaaNm6W2Yyg/s1600/DSC_6866.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; line-height: 115%;">Like
the walk yesterday, today's hike began with rain. We walked out of Patterdale
in full rain-gear. After about fifteen minutes, we realised we had taken the
wrong road. We retraced out steps, adding about 20 minutes to the day's effort
right off the bat. Back on the correct route we made another minor error, but
soon found ourselves beginning a long, sustained climb up to the moorland of
Patterdale Common. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgetX842PS5IlILS77BJ3H44gzb5-YANeoxB_NcIcK020XXZup2WvlF87gjp1_yze5oFEeAPwR4W1snySpu2an7RHcSGWPUGkMcbIRaC-QL8evvBWCeg3-J34AL9l4Mq9mC6sDiK7TkpvQ/s1600/DSC_6874.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgetX842PS5IlILS77BJ3H44gzb5-YANeoxB_NcIcK020XXZup2WvlF87gjp1_yze5oFEeAPwR4W1snySpu2an7RHcSGWPUGkMcbIRaC-QL8evvBWCeg3-J34AL9l4Mq9mC6sDiK7TkpvQ/s640/DSC_6874.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Looking down from High Street north towards Haweswater</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; line-height: 115%;">The
rain stopped for a while after about an hour. Then began a long climb around
the east side of Angletarn Pike to Angle Tarn. Here the weather turned nasty.
For about an hour we were buffeted by howling wind and lashing rain. It was
grim. I began to obsess on creating a formula: total discomfort = heavy blowing
wind + driving rain + wet trail + slippery rocks + sore feet + aching legs. You
might call it The Full Monty of hiking woes. All it took was the removal of a
couple of elements for the formula to improve your mood and outlook.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvNEslYtIxPmlpgk1iXcvf9Qr13b7Gats17y4id2JMEoLkW_BHJWcF3QJR7W9iVFYvmvRqbtUmCeYPI6nO4GRIoQsyxKxZWNXc56FN3PJaj7UIWpB3R3sgH1RZOerpMfFXNXJg2LNdVOc/s1600/DSC_6876.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvNEslYtIxPmlpgk1iXcvf9Qr13b7Gats17y4id2JMEoLkW_BHJWcF3QJR7W9iVFYvmvRqbtUmCeYPI6nO4GRIoQsyxKxZWNXc56FN3PJaj7UIWpB3R3sgH1RZOerpMfFXNXJg2LNdVOc/s640/DSC_6876.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Looking north: Small Water in the foreground; Haweswater behind</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; line-height: 115%;">Quote of the Day:</span></div>
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<i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; line-height: 115%;">"If you find a job that you love, you'll never
have to work again."</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; line-height: 115%;">- Lyn, the
proprietor of the Old Schoolhouse B&B in Patterdale </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7gpA2ZvSpV6hRqWBQRTNFyyAHf1UR2FBxY2JEloNdNO9JlnfAZejgjAcFlRLkBezQZgRTbT997tkc52PmLkGAtnGD3F52-2i7UXBwRAVF-a8eX5ijkoqwCqw71YNiIqAybepG3Qmtk98/s1600/DSC_6878.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7gpA2ZvSpV6hRqWBQRTNFyyAHf1UR2FBxY2JEloNdNO9JlnfAZejgjAcFlRLkBezQZgRTbT997tkc52PmLkGAtnGD3F52-2i7UXBwRAVF-a8eX5ijkoqwCqw71YNiIqAybepG3Qmtk98/s640/DSC_6878.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Small Water</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; line-height: 115%;">It
was when we got to The Knott that we missed a key turn north-east towards
Kidsty Pike. We were influenced, I suppose, by a couple of other hikers we had
conferred with earlier. They had good topographic maps with them. We saw them marching
ahead of us up a steep incline. We followed them and began the long climb —
again in heavy wind and rain — up to High Street. I was beginning to feel the
cold, and was not sure of where we were. </span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkYVbYS3uRAtqxYVznp00uKDIY5lXdOgw5tGsJk_sqgZ5DIgdiMTnccd0NRYuHC6RhdCRB1b34p3yTiuT9g1IOPhSCtnjB-4Rs6fDT87wX0uitdylHHOi7phVtXgPijONEAsE4MFrLYCM/s1600/DSC_6882.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkYVbYS3uRAtqxYVznp00uKDIY5lXdOgw5tGsJk_sqgZ5DIgdiMTnccd0NRYuHC6RhdCRB1b34p3yTiuT9g1IOPhSCtnjB-4Rs6fDT87wX0uitdylHHOi7phVtXgPijONEAsE4MFrLYCM/s640/DSC_6882.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Water flowing out of Small Water to Haweswater</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; line-height: 115%;">Once
at the top, we consulted our map and guide book, trying to verify our location.
For the first time on the Coast to Coast Walk, we seemed to be lost. We stopped
for lunch, taking shelter behind a small mound of rocks. Feeling better for the
sustenance, we moved on, and finally identified a large body of water to our
left (north). It was Haweswater. But we realised that we were a long way east
of where we should have been. We had to find a trail that would take us in a
long, northerly descent to Haweswater. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Long and difficult climb down to Haweswater</span></td></tr>
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met a few hikers coming up to where we were; one of them gave us precise
directions on the path we needed. The way down was an arduous journey. The path
was strewn with large boulders and rocks the entire way. It seemed to go on
forever. After about 80 minutes, we finally rejoined the Coast to Coast path at
the southern end of Haweswater — a long lake running north-east. We hiked along
the entire western side of the lake (about an hour). And after that there was
still about five miles over muddy and boggy fields to the village of Shap. By
the end we totally knackered.</span></div>
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problem with these long and physically gruelling walks is that they bring on
mental fatigue. When you are climbing up, or down, steep trails that are a
"mine-field" of rocks and boulders you have to be constantly alert,
and consider each step that you make. A careless footfall can mean a twisted
ankle, or worse. You stumble and slip more in the last couple of hours of the
walking-day.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Gorse - a common wild shrub in England</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; line-height: 115%;">When
we reached the northern tip of Haweswater, we could sense the change in
landscape. The fells were quickly coming to an end; and ahead of us was
low-lying filed and meadows. As we walked through the hamlet of Burnbanks, and
moved on towards the village of Shap we were leaving the Lake District behind
us. I was sorry to see the end of its dramatic and spectacular scenery; but, truth
be told, also glad to have these four days of steep ascents and descents behind
us. Let's see what the rest of the Walk has to offer. We are ready for it.
Physically and mentally adjusted now to the continuing demands of long-distance
hiking.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Just outside Burnbanks: a young lad's initiative to help hikers with cold drinks and snacks</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">An "honesty box" to serve Coast to Coast hikers</span></td></tr>
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<i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; line-height: 115%;">"After
a day's walk everything has twice its usual value."</span></i></div>
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<i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; line-height: 115%;">- </span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; line-height: 115%;">George
Macauley Trevelyan</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">From fells to fields and meadows: on the way to Shap</span></td></tr>
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<b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; line-height: 115%;">Dedication</span></b></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; line-height: 115%;">This hike is dedicated to
Bill and Barb Cannon. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; line-height: 115%;">(see
the end of my blog post for Day One for details)</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Shap Abbey: last abbey founded in England (1199); last to be dissolved by Henry VIII in 1540</span></td></tr>
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<b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; line-height: 115%;">Resources:</span></b></div>
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<i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; line-height: 115%;">Coast
to Coast Path</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; line-height: 115%;"> (Sixth Edition - 2014) by Henry
Stedman; </span></div>
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<i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; line-height: 115%;">Coast to Coast: West</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; line-height: 115%;">
- Harvey Map XT40</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Walking down the road to Shap -- late afternoon shadows</span></td></tr>
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Clive Baughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10523779808271053053noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8282904905780175338.post-10849070556649293542015-08-27T18:21:00.002-04:002015-12-12T22:49:07.194-05:00Photo Essay: Day Four of the Coast to Coast Walk<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"A vigorous
five-mile walk will do more good for an unhappy but otherwise healthy adult
than all the medicine and psychology in the world."</span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">- </span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Paul Dudley<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> </i>White</span><br />
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Day Four: from Grasmere to Patterdale (7.5 miles/12
km)</span></b></div>
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<u><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Summary
of Route</span></u><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">: If you ignore the alternative
high-routes, and take the low Grisedale Valley route, this will be the shortest
of the Coast to Coast stages. The highest route, up and over Helvellyn, will
add two hours to your hike.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzuaY_5iW0HgH-jG84CZXuHQlfxpSC_YtIQ-PCqRGVGMWz30Vo-InryBxb6UoPv0re-Gqx_ytvARDw9cR6MGwLCHg6GKpQmLmQ6ZxG2aHvLDVWlt9iOuC9b-UYTV83_xlMRQlkI2Ga17E/s1600/DSC_6759-001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzuaY_5iW0HgH-jG84CZXuHQlfxpSC_YtIQ-PCqRGVGMWz30Vo-InryBxb6UoPv0re-Gqx_ytvARDw9cR6MGwLCHg6GKpQmLmQ6ZxG2aHvLDVWlt9iOuC9b-UYTV83_xlMRQlkI2Ga17E/s640/DSC_6759-001.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Tony and Michael beside Tongue Gill</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">From
Grasmere, the trail leads to a footbridge at the<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>bottom of<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Great Tongue. Here you face a choice of route: the steeper (western)
alternative follows the Little Tongue Gill; the slightly milder gradient (on
the east side of Great Tongue) follows along Tongue Gill. These alternate paths
meet just above a waterfall. You keep climbing, and soon you arrive at the
scenic mountain lake called Grisedale Tarn.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkmeFpvyExk6x4AJ6garswKv898u7P-WHr3KQgXv8MQ2iTmh41oBwx67OWg7iFzLbKj2TpmYwluRsBGZl8ZhZUhnx76s71wIxKgB-TEGn-mxArOUU7tixggrwmKND3u233_Iqg4WWvBYo/s1600/DSC_6764-001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkmeFpvyExk6x4AJ6garswKv898u7P-WHr3KQgXv8MQ2iTmh41oBwx67OWg7iFzLbKj2TpmYwluRsBGZl8ZhZUhnx76s71wIxKgB-TEGn-mxArOUU7tixggrwmKND3u233_Iqg4WWvBYo/s640/DSC_6764-001.JPG" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Tongue Gill</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">And
now you face another choice — there are three alternatives this time: an easy
hike through the Grisedale Valley; a high-route on the south side of the
valley, along a ridge that rises to St Sunday Crag and The Cape (at 841 m),
before descending to Glenamara Park; or the even-higher trail along the
northern side of the valley, which ascends to Helvellyn (at 950 metres, it's
the third highest peak in England, after Scafell Pike and Scafell) and drops a
bit before reaching a very narrow ridge at Striding Edge. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Some
people argue that the St Sunday Crag hike offers better vistas than the
Helvellyn alternative, even if it is not as exciting — for many, the best views
of the entire Coast to Coast Walk. At The Cape you can get a view stretching
out over the next day's objectives: Angle Tarn, Kidsty Pike, and Haweswater.
And, apart from the impressive views, this route offers a much easier climb up
and down the ridge. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTDBgdeCRjhBhTuksImKMrYqLaoBaaGWO_SejXYW-qDj01XgcQFcgbxSSSgHkRxlkahPOINUMC2PB_T0oUqLUyFbdQ3iz_yYX3AjqNI44c2Wj2aTM5OOeUKM5HJWXGc6n8di15Szo0kt8/s1600/DSC_6771-001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTDBgdeCRjhBhTuksImKMrYqLaoBaaGWO_SejXYW-qDj01XgcQFcgbxSSSgHkRxlkahPOINUMC2PB_T0oUqLUyFbdQ3iz_yYX3AjqNI44c2Wj2aTM5OOeUKM5HJWXGc6n8di15Szo0kt8/s640/DSC_6771-001.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Waterfall on Tongue Gill</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The
climb on the other high route, up and over Helvellyn, is an arduous one, and
the narrow ridge at Striding Edge can be nerve-wracking, especially when the
wind is blowing. But Wainwright extols the virtues of this particular stretch of
the trail: he calls Striding Edge "the best quarter mile between St Bees
and Robin Hood's Bay." And it was his climb to Helvellyn during his first
visit to the Lake District in 1930 that got him hooked on fellwalking in
Lakeland. So the extra distance and time (two more hours) required to negotiate
this dramatic piece of hiking ought to be well worth the effort.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhElkwQqKLXxdlAPwXqC-OTCC-B6r3XEoqb4ciBgjAoLwDYEgDmoSJ8F3jQMfaNQ-JH7bpBx_dWxLY3xgrkE8RV2lprqMnVk0-oI404msArPaTkF26UKUCC69P4Ena14yev3H0hPGsdW-8/s1600/DSC_6772-001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhElkwQqKLXxdlAPwXqC-OTCC-B6r3XEoqb4ciBgjAoLwDYEgDmoSJ8F3jQMfaNQ-JH7bpBx_dWxLY3xgrkE8RV2lprqMnVk0-oI404msArPaTkF26UKUCC69P4Ena14yev3H0hPGsdW-8/s640/DSC_6772-001.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Looking south back toward Tongue Gill</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The
three alternate routes meet close to each other at Glenamara Park. From here
you get good views of Patterdale village and Ullswater. And then it's a short
walk down into Patterdale. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_GRiXt36usFb7lq5oQt4J9vIgcoSJujxbSMfMOyor7c5moSjvTM_kmTRhyphenhyphen_KPRrkNKEp4Z-V5WuGBpUMOpMJQDLkJS_KwfRTWrhK_E2tmoXAkRcWtcnlS25y36hU6HzpadVIAosPgM0A/s1600/DSC_6769-001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_GRiXt36usFb7lq5oQt4J9vIgcoSJujxbSMfMOyor7c5moSjvTM_kmTRhyphenhyphen_KPRrkNKEp4Z-V5WuGBpUMOpMJQDLkJS_KwfRTWrhK_E2tmoXAkRcWtcnlS25y36hU6HzpadVIAosPgM0A/s640/DSC_6769-001.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Michael by waterfall on Tongue Gill</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Today's
hike was dominated by the weather. We have been lucky so far to have had lots
of sun, or periods of sun mixed with cloud, and sometimes overcast skies. But
no rain — until today. Last night, when we were coming back from the restaurant,
it was raining; we had to dash to avoid getting too wet. It continued to rain
overnight, and it was still raining when we came down for breakfast. So, just
before leaving we donned our rain gear — light jackets (with hoods), pants
(trousers), and waterproof covers to pull over our backpacks.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAmPaDdRD8-RKIw2JZ3NfvjL0JEzLOGYS9sOrx92EZkSUnEgPLh3DVDC45yavMJyL5Kh2D_2pUUHJMVmBL9hlZsvxwCVSKoAp9HMWI68PSt7uO35lxdI5ZhU2gZBOdKlZDgcjVDhUhC88/s1600/DSC_6778-001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAmPaDdRD8-RKIw2JZ3NfvjL0JEzLOGYS9sOrx92EZkSUnEgPLh3DVDC45yavMJyL5Kh2D_2pUUHJMVmBL9hlZsvxwCVSKoAp9HMWI68PSt7uO35lxdI5ZhU2gZBOdKlZDgcjVDhUhC88/s640/DSC_6778-001.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">After climbing al the way up past Great Tongue, we reached Grisedale Tarn</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The
rain kept coming down for the first 20 minutes of the walk, as we followed the
A591 north-west out of Grasmere. But it stopped soon after we turned east off
the road and began a long hike up a bridleway beside the Tongue Gill stream.
For the next few hours the trail was wet and slippery, with shallow water
running over the stones, rock and gravel. All along the route the brooks and
streams cascading down the fells were engorged with extra water from the
extended rainfall — creating sustained stretches of white water and impressive
waterfalls. And the rocks that usually help one in fording over a stream crossing
the path were virtually covered by the rushing water, making one's footing a
little tricky — you had to take your time.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Grisedale Tarn -- just past the eastern end the wind began to blow with gale-force speed</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">We
reached a trail-divide at a footbridge and took the path that cuts east around
Great Tongue, following the Tongue Gill stream. The climb got steeper, and we
continued to watch our step over the slippery rocks that have been placed to
assist your climb upward.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Quote of the Day:</span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">"May the force be with you"</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">- Michael </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">(in the
Lake District the term force refers to rapids or waterfall) </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">After the incredible winds at the top of the Grisedale valley, we hiked down -- stopping beside the Ruthwaite Lodge; the Ruthwaite Beck flows down the fell into the Grisedale Beck at the bottom of the valley.</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">At
the top of our climb we reached the Grisedale Tarn — a small lake created by
glacial gouging of the upper fells. The wind was blowing strongly and there
were whitecaps flowing rapidly eastwards over the surface of the lake. We hiked
to the eastern end of the tarn and prepared to begin our descent down into the
Grisedale Valley. And then the wind picked up — to almost gale-force power. The
waterproof cover wrapped around Michael's backpack was ripped off by a large
gust of wind and was blown across the sodden grass towards the stream. Michael
left the trail in hopes of retrieving the cover, but the wind sent it rapidly
down the valley and it disappeared. Michael gave it up for lost. Tony and I
provided some brief grief-counselling, and the issue — Michael conceded — had gained
some closure.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Ruthwaite Beck</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">As
we continued down the path, we were continually buffeted by some incredible
blasts of wind. Many times I had to plant myself firmly, using the walking
poles as a means to keep my balance. The problem was made worse by the very wet
rocks we were clambering over, and the fact that we were working our way fairly
steeply downhill. When it came time to choose one of three alternate routes
down to Patterdale, following the Grisedale Beck, we did not hesitate to avoid
the two high-ridge routes, and chose instead the easier path through the
valley. We could see some of the ridges immersed in cloud, and the wet and extremely
windy conditions made the high routes too hazardous. Taking the low route made
this the shortest stage thus far, and we reached Patterdale by 1:30 p.m. — only
four-and-a-half hours of hiking.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS0wxkNMWB0drctR4gDrr6sA34Z3taOi84rvTjgR1FZezL212hINsopccfEytclTcJx2LftYmFHMq-PkapzRq7Oq4PAx1juSVYL3ZA6xJgo-eGHJy5_Ykr4hSgFXmW5begOcMYnIac_so/s1600/DSC_6800-001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS0wxkNMWB0drctR4gDrr6sA34Z3taOi84rvTjgR1FZezL212hINsopccfEytclTcJx2LftYmFHMq-PkapzRq7Oq4PAx1juSVYL3ZA6xJgo-eGHJy5_Ykr4hSgFXmW5begOcMYnIac_so/s640/DSC_6800-001.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Wooden bridge over the Grisedale Beck</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I
became especially aware today of the familiar patterns that one's thoughts and
feelings go through when you are engaged in long-distance hiking. At<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>times you feel great — touched by
exhilaration at the challenge, and full of the physical delights of breathing
fresh mountain-air and feeling the sun on your skin and the wind in your face.
But then you experience moments of doubt and anxiety: what the hell am I doing?
— can I really get all the way through this challenge? Your mind focuses, in
turn, on different aches and pains — the sore spots on your feet, that you
think might become blisters, the aches in your leg muscles, the small pain
above your left ankle caused by a<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>too-tight boot. And so it goes — alternating feelings of confidence and
concern.</span></div>
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<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Nethermostoove Beck </span></td></tr>
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<br /></div>
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</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">All
of our overnight accommodations have promised wi-fi connections. Already the
situation at two locations has been disappointing — limited access, and
sometimes only in certain areas of the building. I couldn't complete and upload
the previous blog post from Grasmere because of that. Fortunately, today's
B&B has an excellent connection and I've tried to complete my reports
for Day 3 and 4 here.</span></div>
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<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">A couple of rams in the Grisedale Valley</span></td></tr>
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<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Tomorrow
we do the final stage inside the Lake District National Park. We are going to
walk from Patterdale to Shap. When we arrive at our destination, we will just
outside the eastern boundary of the Lake District. The final day of steep
hiking up and down the fells.</span><br />
<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl9esgjP0V4lEopMSIEic2I3fQCvtozDlGYlPG4vmnJ2y-5GjSpWyveccUou-ecfUGrusITDM_b3OHR20ZSL182OzV-fkLOScYZxUTa0lW_-6NQVY0yarqhU7iW3oYUAW2V5vl66o4oGM/s1600/DSC_6816-001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl9esgjP0V4lEopMSIEic2I3fQCvtozDlGYlPG4vmnJ2y-5GjSpWyveccUou-ecfUGrusITDM_b3OHR20ZSL182OzV-fkLOScYZxUTa0lW_-6NQVY0yarqhU7iW3oYUAW2V5vl66o4oGM/s640/DSC_6816-001.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Looking up to Nethermost Pike from the spot we stopped for lunch.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6.0pt; text-align: center;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"Perhaps the
truth depends on a walk around the lake" </span></i></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">- </span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Wallace
Stevens<br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</span></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7IHkBOrTjYNdBH60XjImiu3aAmwe0Qka-hF8op3J9fSN1VoIbO7xR_YHmZAZWxJDqTlf2-v_Eez8UBW5mGcePGfIJtMEERXVAa2JSV7e45x_-7REsrOaYueHD5g-I_O046qmhg9k6bIY/s1600/DSC_6818-001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7IHkBOrTjYNdBH60XjImiu3aAmwe0Qka-hF8op3J9fSN1VoIbO7xR_YHmZAZWxJDqTlf2-v_Eez8UBW5mGcePGfIJtMEERXVAa2JSV7e45x_-7REsrOaYueHD5g-I_O046qmhg9k6bIY/s640/DSC_6818-001.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Dedication</span></b></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-pagination: none; text-align: center;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This hike is dedicated to
Bill and Barb Cannon. </span></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: center;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">(see
the end of my blog post for Day One for details)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixHRd4j-SjdV-cQ1JFlr37OjO1_hKp-I3gL1uVctGzE9CNT-Sx94tepvsFBy2NguFW95IW9hpmdY9KPY4IPqoJYafGIT0sdzml4x64LDrJrQJgdDeMKvGPR8E7Wuudyb7vZsd-ynmlDHQ/s1600/DSC_6820-001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixHRd4j-SjdV-cQ1JFlr37OjO1_hKp-I3gL1uVctGzE9CNT-Sx94tepvsFBy2NguFW95IW9hpmdY9KPY4IPqoJYafGIT0sdzml4x64LDrJrQJgdDeMKvGPR8E7Wuudyb7vZsd-ynmlDHQ/s640/DSC_6820-001.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The Grisedale Brow</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Resources:</span></b></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: center;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Coast
to Coast Path</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> (Sixth Edition - 2014) by Henry
Stedman; </span></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6.0pt; text-align: center;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Coast to Coast: West</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">
- Harvey Map XT40</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">A copse of pines just before we arrived in Patterdale.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<![endif]--><br />Clive Baughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10523779808271053053noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8282904905780175338.post-40133972753901663002015-08-26T11:55:00.003-04:002015-12-12T22:48:48.051-05:00Photo Essay: Day Three of the Coast to Coast Walk<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkfkIczCnHCisUxFeaV7sj0zO6Fz-NxV9Hduv9HlGCahSEphy8ZywwTLbVmGnt76ZlmqtrgyhwikKyrVYDEt6iEjntln6dRQi6pC7BdI9ndId2CU9n5NV7GI1ZYgZ0b7-HDq1V1XsetlE/s1600/Coast_to_coast_signpost_Rogan%2527s_Seat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="234" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkfkIczCnHCisUxFeaV7sj0zO6Fz-NxV9Hduv9HlGCahSEphy8ZywwTLbVmGnt76ZlmqtrgyhwikKyrVYDEt6iEjntln6dRQi6pC7BdI9ndId2CU9n5NV7GI1ZYgZ0b7-HDq1V1XsetlE/s640/Coast_to_coast_signpost_Rogan%2527s_Seat.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"An
early-morning walk is a blessing for the whole day." </span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">- </span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Henry David
Thoreau</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7g_HUIuPptPL6C_SBCU5hVLGWxjKA5Z1njU2p-ALBuTFewWAndWR5NnOQ9JTDSBdRcDp-EFv4M_JLlYZvHBUrScvEAup2ZXDfO8-hV6OLqAjmc-YfWVxWJ_8E-fEe9w3uHDw_-y0Hx3w/s1600/DSC_6719.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7g_HUIuPptPL6C_SBCU5hVLGWxjKA5Z1njU2p-ALBuTFewWAndWR5NnOQ9JTDSBdRcDp-EFv4M_JLlYZvHBUrScvEAup2ZXDfO8-hV6OLqAjmc-YfWVxWJ_8E-fEe9w3uHDw_-y0Hx3w/s640/DSC_6719.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Michael (left) and Tony (right) at the top of Lining Crag -- Borrowdale and the coast in the distance</span></td></tr>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Day Three: from Rosthwaite to Grasmere (9.5 miles/15
km)</span></b></div>
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<u><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Summary
of Route</span></u><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">: The third stage (the second stage
inside the Lake District National Park) is a classic Lakeland hike — wonderful,
as long as the weather is good. And it was for us today: sunny and clear in the
early morning; and a little cloudy in the afternoon — but that would provide a relief,
when the sun was hidden behind a cloud. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The
hike begins with an easy stroll — as you leave Rosthwaite through the fields
beside Stonethwaite Beck. When you reach Stonethwaite, you join Greenup Gill,
which can be a long torrent of white-water and waterfalls, if there has been a
lot of rain recently. And it was for us today. As you climb higher, you will
get impressive views behind you of Borrowdale. The steep climb upwards takes
you past Eagle Crag and onto the top of Lining Crag. If the weather cooperates,
you will get spectacular views of Scafell and Lakeland, looking west to the
coast. Soon you reach Greenup Edge, the highest point on this stage. </span><br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAz8iGL4U5_KM9esHwEe2vZUZAF7U7X9VfwOB0_SqyAPflrtCrh1zRctYXQhe7nTVoGgSYP5xlJaTm7TPAE5foY6kwC4Vuzwpbv-auX4LV_SNtuBCHKd_XKH5Oyt3ufUWAM7osjo45moU/s1600/DSC_6616.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAz8iGL4U5_KM9esHwEe2vZUZAF7U7X9VfwOB0_SqyAPflrtCrh1zRctYXQhe7nTVoGgSYP5xlJaTm7TPAE5foY6kwC4Vuzwpbv-auX4LV_SNtuBCHKd_XKH5Oyt3ufUWAM7osjo45moU/s640/DSC_6616.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Only in England! Leaving our hotel in Rossthwaite, </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">I noticed a register of dogs that have visted the hotel since 1960! </span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> From
here you begin a descent into the Wythburn Valley. When you reach Far Easedale,
you face a choice of route: you can take the valley walk, which follows, first,
the north bank of Easedale Beck, and then the south bank, and, finally, the
north bank again into the village of Easedale. The trail turns north, and it's
a short walk into Grasmere village. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKofVNoPYEHznc-5Qf_fZZCaaim3YnlAu6vDPhdBA7RvADvasTPKQmBMRvly6lpL7Wj2Sp68fp2JCrXpfmF23DHXZWySSQNzsXJojSd1lyCkVGKKi7Lqq1veTjwwJ7eHMRCD7AskcBo6I/s1600/DSC_6627.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKofVNoPYEHznc-5Qf_fZZCaaim3YnlAu6vDPhdBA7RvADvasTPKQmBMRvly6lpL7Wj2Sp68fp2JCrXpfmF23DHXZWySSQNzsXJojSd1lyCkVGKKi7Lqq1veTjwwJ7eHMRCD7AskcBo6I/s640/DSC_6627.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Typical Lakeland view: rocks, walls, water and fells</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> Instead
of the valley path, at Far Easedale you can choose the high-level route, which
is what we did. It added a couple of hours to our hike, but when we told at the
hotel in Rosthwaite that the hike to Grasmere would be a mere four hours, we
decided to take the more interesting (and arduous) high route. It takes you up
and over Calf Crag, Moment Crag (there is a great view down from here of
Grasmere), Gibson Knott, and Helm Crag (which offers a 360° vista over the
fells). From here it's a steep descent into Easedale and Grasmere.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb-sWAPZPARIGedkd8FNPlHyfGMF1i2ISxLauLiOAvm-mk7Sh4lDIqMTwJMmCHxYIYULB_FvznofOWFbqX3W5-V-UGE6iwcLBWW9CQaTpXbgDUGkIRQNEdHFuFwEexvdOllsmn5Hs4Zo4/s1600/DSC_6632.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb-sWAPZPARIGedkd8FNPlHyfGMF1i2ISxLauLiOAvm-mk7Sh4lDIqMTwJMmCHxYIYULB_FvznofOWFbqX3W5-V-UGE6iwcLBWW9CQaTpXbgDUGkIRQNEdHFuFwEexvdOllsmn5Hs4Zo4/s640/DSC_6632.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">How's this for a camping site: under a fell beside the Stonethwaite Beck</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Today
was another wonderful day. The weather was perfect: clear and sunny in the
morning, when we were low down and following the river; and rather cloudy in
the afternoon, when we were exposed on the high fells — so the UV light was
reduced and the heat was dissipated.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">
</span>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwuzBk8lFIsqpUaXeo6uUQ48MpmvqKyPZ__POxdHex1fwQzPO7jE7R1MYQHSNc5T_lf_B3zfR-S8aOmpm2eV7b1hT5WmRRkqy9TaQ7X1HtJfIWHhaLFxX5VdfCM0KO6GK9bF5yh-xZzsk/s1600/DSC_6635.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwuzBk8lFIsqpUaXeo6uUQ48MpmvqKyPZ__POxdHex1fwQzPO7jE7R1MYQHSNc5T_lf_B3zfR-S8aOmpm2eV7b1hT5WmRRkqy9TaQ7X1HtJfIWHhaLFxX5VdfCM0KO6GK9bF5yh-xZzsk/s640/DSC_6635.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Here's something we do at least a dozen times a day: opening and closing a gate.</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This
stage was considerably shorter than the first two hikes. They told us at the
hotel in Rossthwaite that this stretch would take only for hours. Well, yes, if
you take the low valley route for the last half of the walk. But we chose,
instead, to venture up onto the high route on the fells. After Wyth Burn we
climbed up the steep slope to Calf Crag. For a short while, we had to abandon
use of the walking poles, and use our hands to help pull us up a very narrow,
rocky, and wet section (a small stream of water was flowibg down over the rock —
making it even more tricky. But at the top we could look back at the way we had
come — along the trail that ran along the west side of Stonethwaite Beck. The
high route was a walk along the ridge high above the valley. After Calf Crag,
we continued on past Moment Crag and Gibson Knott. The trail seemed to go on
forever. Finally we climbed up and over Helm Crag — on its north side we got a
spectacular view of Grasmere Lake and the village of Grasmere way below us. But
the climb down, after more than five hours of steady walking, was a long and
tiring descent.</span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiwI2VhFPDRhn31jxXUeeNXsVmaK4fnO8LUepNnkqyafD4-dT4ho2c5a1-nsvP1vyr2NVpkvdLx2VrsXLJLKvR0NOgQSe9h6EZ9UW737p7ZQfvT34yCqDA3AhdfsABkFGnCfCiw1pCpjU/s1600/DSC_6641.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiwI2VhFPDRhn31jxXUeeNXsVmaK4fnO8LUepNnkqyafD4-dT4ho2c5a1-nsvP1vyr2NVpkvdLx2VrsXLJLKvR0NOgQSe9h6EZ9UW737p7ZQfvT34yCqDA3AhdfsABkFGnCfCiw1pCpjU/s640/DSC_6641.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Miles and miles of our trails are strewn with rocks and large stones.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Today
was a very boggy day. Once we were up and over Calf Crag, the trail from there
to Helm Crag, about four or five long miles, was strewn with intermittent boggy
patches. Hiking boots were essential </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">— </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">judiciously
placed rocks were helpful too in negotiating the worst patches.</span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9GBpSdjeJY2MStFsOGgK-AX4ojDbeovZxbe1yoSJs5v9c_Yoq_A26s57DYWco_Xh1zl-WEFFy0PbF2mO64AFDHIDsjOx4SCsrFZRtB7buhs5pklh6kscRM3AAbFuwOWh6t2qYMUOn3O0/s1600/DSC_6647.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9GBpSdjeJY2MStFsOGgK-AX4ojDbeovZxbe1yoSJs5v9c_Yoq_A26s57DYWco_Xh1zl-WEFFy0PbF2mO64AFDHIDsjOx4SCsrFZRtB7buhs5pklh6kscRM3AAbFuwOWh6t2qYMUOn3O0/s640/DSC_6647.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Stone wall rising out of a valley and up a Lakeland fell</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Walking
poles are a great help on this sort of long-distance hiking. You use them to
improve your balance, by placing them ahead of you, before you step forward.
You can use them to help with both steep ascents and descents. In this
situation, you place both poles ahead of you to steady yourself. You can also
poke the ground ahead of you in wet and boggy conditions, testing the ground
ahead of you, so that you won't sink in the bog up to your thighs. And once you
get the hang of the things, poles can help you hike faster.</span><br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrbKXguInTqzBOfpYsCrPmbURcqkIIiZEtfeaV7cCoRjc16IlUF5huJMBcZMYJQZO0Kr2yeBAiTeHaKCbVPVEzBSRRsMT_O0Ih1gUCcUdwdIYLc5ksk74abvgW4GZFUoLX7K_8KnT7JNI/s1600/DSC_6654.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrbKXguInTqzBOfpYsCrPmbURcqkIIiZEtfeaV7cCoRjc16IlUF5huJMBcZMYJQZO0Kr2yeBAiTeHaKCbVPVEzBSRRsMT_O0Ih1gUCcUdwdIYLc5ksk74abvgW4GZFUoLX7K_8KnT7JNI/s640/DSC_6654.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Quote of the Day:</span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">"This is about finishing the walk, not the
walk finishing you"</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">- Michael </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSd-r-9GFcJdhYk7O0ahB_GAuofxw7DpW0yLrtb86flCZOpBdK8NAAT7AKjxpoagTVrU7QA7e2EN9qxK9pRxv4jvU2BlyOkj2TahBYWSt75dyYOcIwMgECqjjztebCq-KankHhq5ES6-0/s1600/DSC_6661.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSd-r-9GFcJdhYk7O0ahB_GAuofxw7DpW0yLrtb86flCZOpBdK8NAAT7AKjxpoagTVrU7QA7e2EN9qxK9pRxv4jvU2BlyOkj2TahBYWSt75dyYOcIwMgECqjjztebCq-KankHhq5ES6-0/s640/DSC_6661.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Getting
lost on the trail can be a common occurrence on the Coast to Coast Walk — especially
in the Lake District, where they don't employ the continuous use of blazes that
I am familiar with on the Bruce Trail in Ontario. The Henry Stedman guidebook
we are using has detailed instructions on how to stay on the trail, but there
are still moments when one needs to stop and carefully compare landscape to
maps. We have lost our way twice so far: on Day One, just before we got to Dent
Hill, we took a wrong turn and had to double back — adding about twenty minutes
to the Walk. It is a common sight to see a group of five or six Coast-to-Coasters
huddled over a map or guide book, trying to fathom out the correct way t
proceed.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIMJXXPlX-z-2pUGSALJSoXHNhEu7GUWr_rwE7El8ZHayZ4CCxmcBUMxSofzAxOtQszfqnxeB8v9ZipECAq5Ayspw9Bpv9TLgGW64ozQcaMLodc7OHqsGoVhiLf4Vd5kPg4kNCzAyUad4/s1600/DSC_6666.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIMJXXPlX-z-2pUGSALJSoXHNhEu7GUWr_rwE7El8ZHayZ4CCxmcBUMxSofzAxOtQszfqnxeB8v9ZipECAq5Ayspw9Bpv9TLgGW64ozQcaMLodc7OHqsGoVhiLf4Vd5kPg4kNCzAyUad4/s640/DSC_6666.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Although
my legs were still sore today, I was more concerned with my feet. For the
second-half of the hike, I was worried about getting blisters. I thought
perhaps the preventative "moleskin" plasters I am using to cover the
reddened pieces of skin had shifted. I began to imagine I had two or three
blisters by the end of the day, but it turned out not to be the case. there is
one incipient blister on the underside of one big toe. But I hope to prevent it
breaking by the continued use of plasters.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSOCiL6xZOG7CK94y_dbhkBUUKxQs0wqtvccyLIXGOPfiwZ9S2AxUNU6BJMxVTRHit2yDUnxpeVk7X_bUqzeIWIV1h9fBCYGiQlSMGnhAwcPUNgSzZPdmXiMluPu4iQ40HgNNwQbEKzsM/s1600/DSC_6677.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="408" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSOCiL6xZOG7CK94y_dbhkBUUKxQs0wqtvccyLIXGOPfiwZ9S2AxUNU6BJMxVTRHit2yDUnxpeVk7X_bUqzeIWIV1h9fBCYGiQlSMGnhAwcPUNgSzZPdmXiMluPu4iQ40HgNNwQbEKzsM/s640/DSC_6677.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> Despite
these minor problems, and other aches and pains, the three of us are feeling
very good <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>— and confident of making our
way successfully on this grand adventure. </span><br />
<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUJUOKHZwn3bI8fMlRn1UB-7vt5lHHcklTXhXbaxgiitdjYF9Iaf_5zgwxAp5CR-LQd_kA90Y1QYz3JdrLg9HN7c7PTv2VeDQFA5N8DjCgQBc_tkEwqDr3XVGAdKd_sgR11LK_xiuxFWc/s1600/DSC_6683.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUJUOKHZwn3bI8fMlRn1UB-7vt5lHHcklTXhXbaxgiitdjYF9Iaf_5zgwxAp5CR-LQd_kA90Y1QYz3JdrLg9HN7c7PTv2VeDQFA5N8DjCgQBc_tkEwqDr3XVGAdKd_sgR11LK_xiuxFWc/s640/DSC_6683.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Michael at top of Greenup Edge Pass</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Tomorrow,
we walk from Grasmere village to Patterdale — more dramatic vistas and high
fell-walking through the spectacular landscape of the Lake District.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtK9JzsjU-4mgIC2ySrrcOTrCtgdizvK8aOpJxb6FzhgePKvA10GApPFr-GRsaGAkvHtwITSUDrNnPOPoKnvqIre9bSy5r227jAOgQa9a27NeYB_8sLnw1X0zsdNh2TXtPpg4FSTN4Ahc/s1600/DSC_6707.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtK9JzsjU-4mgIC2ySrrcOTrCtgdizvK8aOpJxb6FzhgePKvA10GApPFr-GRsaGAkvHtwITSUDrNnPOPoKnvqIre9bSy5r227jAOgQa9a27NeYB_8sLnw1X0zsdNh2TXtPpg4FSTN4Ahc/s640/DSC_6707.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Some hikers, who were going all the way to Patterdale, taking the valley walk along Easedale Beck</span></td></tr>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"There
is nothing like walking to get the feel of a country. A fine landscape is like
a piece of music; it must be taken at the right tempo. </span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Even a bicycle goes
too fast."</span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">- </span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Paul Scott
Mowrer</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghwPQpVrvc1oik34JQJMnkH3KVpUliEKPh1XFSY8qbKBXMr4jumwsIXCr95NZ7InFQ1859IMcusDEqrniVVwjtR7a5W6O5JK2pQobHXeJwFB-GED8I_DnJnVUdoC3yimo-U25lPjAzWgI/s1600/DSC_6721.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghwPQpVrvc1oik34JQJMnkH3KVpUliEKPh1XFSY8qbKBXMr4jumwsIXCr95NZ7InFQ1859IMcusDEqrniVVwjtR7a5W6O5JK2pQobHXeJwFB-GED8I_DnJnVUdoC3yimo-U25lPjAzWgI/s640/DSC_6721.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Rocks used to ease the way across a boggy bit</span></td></tr>
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<b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Dedication</span></b></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This hike is dedicated to
Bill and Barb Cannon. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">(<a href="http://clive-w.blogspot.co.uk/2015/08/normal-0-false-false-false-en-ca-x-none_23.html">see the end of my blog post for Day One for details</a>)</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjHaKmxdqw-W5zoXXyVkwYRUkij-OaP2Gkt13GHsU3w853PvBFxprhEmWWuYykiael0xiVgI3FL5_KJHlQrWRlTPW6Hl2xyR_QimRzUhfis2WwHpsaukJIRJmdKbwxmWq9EIgNwxIo4jQ/s1600/DSC_6733.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjHaKmxdqw-W5zoXXyVkwYRUkij-OaP2Gkt13GHsU3w853PvBFxprhEmWWuYykiael0xiVgI3FL5_KJHlQrWRlTPW6Hl2xyR_QimRzUhfis2WwHpsaukJIRJmdKbwxmWq9EIgNwxIo4jQ/s400/DSC_6733.JPG" width="263" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Michael checking for a smart-phone signal on the ridge-walk to Grasmere</span></td></tr>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Resources:</span></b></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Coast
to Coast Path</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> (Sixth Edition - 2014) by Henry
Stedman; </span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Coast to Coast: West</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">
- Harvey Map XT40</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie1L4ghM5KRZVZkj6-RhD9prpobs9afeALzykf7pFJ6biMaWj9QmpYhJGkWjT1e8S2-IS9x5qy-SLsJ4DNNO1khN816glHtlSZhapwdBQ-9gG2g2i3qLzfSoQIIieQU6x-7VOAGbT9BO4/s1600/DSC_6737.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie1L4ghM5KRZVZkj6-RhD9prpobs9afeALzykf7pFJ6biMaWj9QmpYhJGkWjT1e8S2-IS9x5qy-SLsJ4DNNO1khN816glHtlSZhapwdBQ-9gG2g2i3qLzfSoQIIieQU6x-7VOAGbT9BO4/s640/DSC_6737.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The final steep ascent of the day, up and over Helm Crag.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinvzpfn9VD8nRZfTYZQjXLxSVrE1V8TAvXWkJuQ04SlFVPaJoOp7fMFgsuAqJtKYWIvi48TbPvezetJ14GkiScvsGNvofdeX6cP29b1HrT9rqjHU6i7l0J3eHMmp_V9A3s95PNsY-hzCs/s1600/DSC_6741.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinvzpfn9VD8nRZfTYZQjXLxSVrE1V8TAvXWkJuQ04SlFVPaJoOp7fMFgsuAqJtKYWIvi48TbPvezetJ14GkiScvsGNvofdeX6cP29b1HrT9rqjHU6i7l0J3eHMmp_V9A3s95PNsY-hzCs/s640/DSC_6741.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Breathtaking view down to Grasmere from Helm Crag</span></td></tr>
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<![endif]--><br />Clive Baughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10523779808271053053noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8282904905780175338.post-68018599067550502672015-08-24T17:07:00.002-04:002015-12-12T22:48:25.632-05:00Photo Essay: Day Two of the Coast to Coast Walk<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"One should always have a
definite objective, in a walk as in life — it is so much more satisfying to
reach a target by personal effort than to wander aimlessly."</span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">-
Alfred Wainwright</span></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3sEZaXxitqoRZa7u34wHgZGs2AKLOActbz7nqDT540EDd5KgZaDWPGXMWJru4DBUwiA9e1ZrFnfaQtpkjdvy1g3Q_V1QuTJXbd-XsTnhA9pJ5Y16wHeUlhBH-N4XCMmlbvhCUhJjOrkU/s1600/DSC_5483.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="134" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3sEZaXxitqoRZa7u34wHgZGs2AKLOActbz7nqDT540EDd5KgZaDWPGXMWJru4DBUwiA9e1ZrFnfaQtpkjdvy1g3Q_V1QuTJXbd-XsTnhA9pJ5Y16wHeUlhBH-N4XCMmlbvhCUhJjOrkU/s640/DSC_5483.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Day
Two: From Ennerdale Bridge to Rosthwaite (16 miles/26 km)</span></b></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Summary of Route</span></u><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">:
Now you are into the Lake District National Park for the next four days. There
is a lot of high-climbing to come.The first half of this stage is a walk along
the southern side of Ennerdale Water. At the end of the Water, you cross to the
northern bank of the River Liza. </span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Just after the
Ennerdale Camping Barn, there is a choice of trail — the low route through the
valley, or the high route, which passes Red Pike, High Stiles, High Crag and
Hay Stacks. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Near the end of the
high route you reach Innominate Tarn: Alfred Wainwright asked that his cremated
remains be disposed of here — "where the water gently laps the gravelly
shore and the heather blooms and Pillar and Gable keep unfailing watch." </span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This alternate, high
route adds about one-and-a-half miles (2.5 km) and 1¾ hours to the regular
walk. After the YHA Black Sail, the low route turns north and climbs steeply up
Loft Beck. Just after turning east again, it meets the high route just beyond
the Blackbeck Tarn. From here the trail<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>begins
a long descent through Honister, Seatoller and Longthwaite, before finally
arriving in Rosthwaite (which sits in the civil parish of Borrowdale). </span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ0Xhl8WiK9F_ZLkSeGkF7wJ1F9FXIeg0OIHzir18YOHzp8JrYrJkOZDrxpz0CRcvfebxALoJMbGKmWJhISzXjyVGb8SSQCGsDeNTjYOK7Emrp5cW07crxr5v7c-TMAbthwrJIbYo5tpk/s1600/DSC_6461.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ0Xhl8WiK9F_ZLkSeGkF7wJ1F9FXIeg0OIHzir18YOHzp8JrYrJkOZDrxpz0CRcvfebxALoJMbGKmWJhISzXjyVGb8SSQCGsDeNTjYOK7Emrp5cW07crxr5v7c-TMAbthwrJIbYo5tpk/s640/DSC_6461.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Walking along the southern shore of Ennerdale Water</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Today was a day of recovery.
I was able to "walk through" the sore legs and feet resulting from
yesterday's brutal re-introduction to long-distance hiking, and get to this
day's destination without the physical difficulties suffered during Day One of
the Coast to Coast Walk.</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpN9YX6D-ZR0-x2RDrcDYgci9CeFx6JfJJoNG2MfSNTnZk4iynXC8kXBbO8CVbcIVADt6BEihdWvX0aDi0yzMF0HGhIY5aD7Z7pjq4rEOfVqJ8UP22vNnAxx9LB-ZuLubfs271_A0-lLI/s1600/DSC_6463.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpN9YX6D-ZR0-x2RDrcDYgci9CeFx6JfJJoNG2MfSNTnZk4iynXC8kXBbO8CVbcIVADt6BEihdWvX0aDi0yzMF0HGhIY5aD7Z7pjq4rEOfVqJ8UP22vNnAxx9LB-ZuLubfs271_A0-lLI/s640/DSC_6463.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Lots of purple heather along EnnerdaleWater</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The scenery on this day's
hike — the first stage within the Lake District National Park — was spectacular.
We started the day walking along the entire southern shore of Ennerdale Water.
All along the trail we encountered engorged brooks flowing down the steep sides
of the fell into the lake. The rushing sound of water tumbling over rock-festooned
stream-beds is a tonic to the soul. </span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRuNRPH_DhP7e11f-w97kAsHChbkublq4y9SDotcJm8Hw_fzpCpcHjWRUqG8FCnjEug_sdbdTkYCljdNPkqD-oeTG2iC-R3tzEOgmosuFCMpM9QDS_CWHtmi8YGdfEXSpup1HXGVVHjbM/s1600/DSC_6472.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRuNRPH_DhP7e11f-w97kAsHChbkublq4y9SDotcJm8Hw_fzpCpcHjWRUqG8FCnjEug_sdbdTkYCljdNPkqD-oeTG2iC-R3tzEOgmosuFCMpM9QDS_CWHtmi8YGdfEXSpup1HXGVVHjbM/s640/DSC_6472.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">A tricky climb down a rocky bit on southern shore of Ennerdale Water</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A lot of the stony trail along
Ennerdale Water (especially the eastern half) was covered in very shallow, slow
moving water — not a problem if you are wearing good hiking boots.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6wTu_Hb9mGppX4nOiCVCUWh6pctp8cgSUNPEcM2ZHnNtZqX-bKYZMVQ3_OHu7sJywC_VFpTueEnl4zaeOaAMWtxpnWMGJqoJ9_Oi8klHqIO_k_HtP6F_92DwQnc8zaBIM6jXtfL95so8/s1600/DSC_6476.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6wTu_Hb9mGppX4nOiCVCUWh6pctp8cgSUNPEcM2ZHnNtZqX-bKYZMVQ3_OHu7sJywC_VFpTueEnl4zaeOaAMWtxpnWMGJqoJ9_Oi8klHqIO_k_HtP6F_92DwQnc8zaBIM6jXtfL95so8/s640/DSC_6476.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">A gate along Ennerdale Water</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSBDMFPzrr802z8bDSIjSYeZi_ktcMWuuznY5LEgBeEsPMkY7FuakIoDrMlkib6cu1PWhDjU_jzDfQfT_iqDcq9M1aCUxbhAkGY_XZ_omcth8zayh6DS7PSfPVlQ4jeIYMCB0S3m-Swpc/s1600/DSC_6489.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSBDMFPzrr802z8bDSIjSYeZi_ktcMWuuznY5LEgBeEsPMkY7FuakIoDrMlkib6cu1PWhDjU_jzDfQfT_iqDcq9M1aCUxbhAkGY_XZ_omcth8zayh6DS7PSfPVlQ4jeIYMCB0S3m-Swpc/s640/DSC_6489.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Ennerdale Water</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Once passed the end of
Ennerdale, we followed a gravel road for a couple of <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>miles along the northern side of the Liza
River. This track went through a forest plantation. It was a rather tedious and
uninteresting section of the walk. The three of us began to string out along the
path, often some 75-100 yards apart. For periods like this, you get lost in your
own thoughts: checking out the scenery, anticipating the landscape features to
come, assessing your physical condition, thinking about what is behind you
already, and what is still to come.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQZxU9FAkRzd9AS4vGIg1MWSTK1OgrRyNjYZH1H3jFuBSCy0kDrmZ4ggAwpsUXDqCZ1LpQ-8EcufcNVE_Bce6Ac9FWCqrAHa2MnEWrf_413AqAnWV15-r-5lJXMscvws4Me6cTUQm20Cs/s1600/DSC_6502.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQZxU9FAkRzd9AS4vGIg1MWSTK1OgrRyNjYZH1H3jFuBSCy0kDrmZ4ggAwpsUXDqCZ1LpQ-8EcufcNVE_Bce6Ac9FWCqrAHa2MnEWrf_413AqAnWV15-r-5lJXMscvws4Me6cTUQm20Cs/s640/DSC_6502.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">In the meadow just beyond the eastern end of Ennerdale Water</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">There is a strong psychological
component to this sort of adventure. You constantly second-guess your
motivation and your abilities. But your companions work to encourage and
inspire you. And periods of self-doubt and physical difficulty are off-set by other
periods of pleasure and elation.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Quote of the Day:</span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">"Clive, liberate yourself with a camera-free
day"</span></i><span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">- Tony (who took several
pictures with his smart phone!)</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">At the end of the forest
trek, expansive vistas opened up, revealing the heights of many Lakeland fells.
We soon stopped for about 20 minutes to eat our lunch beside a small stream flowing
down into the valley below us.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrs3JRY3Mue5xl5Ji1xtnjVd1q8t2OWkk7rOO5cEMKi21NsfzKYQ4GWgI9irfUcaUUP74k7vMk-TXXuFzhNt2TFTRGxAC9gfdt8Xx3bIvS5xrtrPMhOPyoz3YFpUN-n-Yi4rXGUmBNA94/s1600/DSC_6525.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrs3JRY3Mue5xl5Ji1xtnjVd1q8t2OWkk7rOO5cEMKi21NsfzKYQ4GWgI9irfUcaUUP74k7vMk-TXXuFzhNt2TFTRGxAC9gfdt8Xx3bIvS5xrtrPMhOPyoz3YFpUN-n-Yi4rXGUmBNA94/s640/DSC_6525.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Tony and Michael have lunch</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">From this point to the Honister
Slate mines (about four miles), the trail took us through a spectacular landscape.
We continued east along the valley, with high crags above us, and rushing
streams below. We passed a section of many small drumlins (mounds left through
glacial deposits). And then we began a steep ascent up to the summit of
Brandreth, with a beautiful mountain stream — Loft Beck — cascading down the
very steep fell.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Valley below Loft Beck showing a group of glacial-deposit drumlins</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">At the top we continued
across Grey Knotts — a beautiful walk in the sunshine, with a dramatic vista to
the west, showing the lakes of Buttermere and Crummock Water. A slow descent took
us in a wide north-west arc down the fell, until we met the trail that would
take us due-east along the now-abandoned Honister Slate Mine tramway. This part
of the trail was full of slate rock — a difficult surface to walk, especially
as it also dropped precipitously down to the road.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Climbing towards Loft Beck</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">We stopped at a tea shop
beside the Slate Mine Museum and enjoyed a very welcome mug of tea and a piece
of cake. From this point on we continued to hike down the fell, on a grassy,
meadow-like surface, decorated now and then by the odd sheep, on along march
towards Rosthwaite, a small hamlet in Borrowdale.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Looking down into the valley during the hike up beside Loft Beck</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Today has been full of
wonderful Lakeland landscapes. And I got the sense that, despite the dramatic
aches and pains of yesterday's walking, I can do this! There should be a lot
more splendid Lakeland vistas tomorrow.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">A view of Buttermere Lake and Crummock Water (behind)</span></td></tr>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"Make
your feet your friend" <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>- </span></i><span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">J.M.
Barrie</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZrZeOB-HvvwTU96qKRjqV7kCuqkq7rmRLcThFp4K9x3r8nPMMcqWE9TJgt7j01jzwNp-ahRl8PHdbhZKupkouW6RsGD1SfOmk96JS9RjAHpRK2p__nGwPLm7n1JDqXvpPzkXgy5u3f-c/s1600/DSC_6588.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZrZeOB-HvvwTU96qKRjqV7kCuqkq7rmRLcThFp4K9x3r8nPMMcqWE9TJgt7j01jzwNp-ahRl8PHdbhZKupkouW6RsGD1SfOmk96JS9RjAHpRK2p__nGwPLm7n1JDqXvpPzkXgy5u3f-c/s640/DSC_6588.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Walking down the old Honister Slate Mine tramway</span></td></tr>
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<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Dedication</span></b></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-pagination: none; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This hike is dedicated to
Bill and Barb Cannon. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%;">(see
the end of my blog post for Day One for details)</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_NpjBe62q_hik7-7HB3TLtN9U_UosWTaFlvFRtwnzd5Ma3S1Has7BbGaTHuFz2fFFleOzrrPvCr3rr8hEU2OOxp1ivCcemBjIxoTb_vLWbWzZ3QWWUEqqsGeLDpPbA_Z7DPWzYDKG7uY/s1600/DSC_6598.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_NpjBe62q_hik7-7HB3TLtN9U_UosWTaFlvFRtwnzd5Ma3S1Has7BbGaTHuFz2fFFleOzrrPvCr3rr8hEU2OOxp1ivCcemBjIxoTb_vLWbWzZ3QWWUEqqsGeLDpPbA_Z7DPWzYDKG7uY/s640/DSC_6598.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">A ram on the meadows above Borrowdale</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Resources:</span></b></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Coast
to Coast Path</span></i><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> (Sixth Edition - 2014) by Henry Stedman; </span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Coast to Coast: West</span></i><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> -
Harvey Map XT40</span></div>
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Clive Baughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10523779808271053053noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8282904905780175338.post-14183251407065432792015-08-23T20:59:00.000-04:002015-12-12T22:48:07.028-05:00Photo Essay: Day One of the Coast to Coast Walk<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvcTZmFo46gvNN7Cv53WCLX24t2ETjFB37lnEuVk_1kgw_qV7YG8sFM0NlG4UfIltBxc6wL9zWzF_2aUs0hjxjoVZmSOTOj_C9mgNs94E_3buLNOvRZFpecLcPZWtZZJsldUTNxZSfkDs/s1600/Coast_to_coast_signpost_Rogan%2527s_Seat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="234" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvcTZmFo46gvNN7Cv53WCLX24t2ETjFB37lnEuVk_1kgw_qV7YG8sFM0NlG4UfIltBxc6wL9zWzF_2aUs0hjxjoVZmSOTOj_C9mgNs94E_3buLNOvRZFpecLcPZWtZZJsldUTNxZSfkDs/s640/Coast_to_coast_signpost_Rogan%2527s_Seat.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"A
journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step."</span></i><span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">- Tao Te Ching (Chapter 64)</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8YXNgg58wkNOxD2xfMwYjIW9CHGyQaOR01V9Xs0EDnbsQBrrVQbTa3vJS2ZPZbvfSgNnYG-6NCbTDvSsaJpHX1hgVBiDGI6JcVVoUvP_WBxuwf2DLHmdA_Korw6wd3UFo2gFAsP_gezk/s1600/DSC_5478.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="128" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8YXNgg58wkNOxD2xfMwYjIW9CHGyQaOR01V9Xs0EDnbsQBrrVQbTa3vJS2ZPZbvfSgNnYG-6NCbTDvSsaJpHX1hgVBiDGI6JcVVoUvP_WBxuwf2DLHmdA_Korw6wd3UFo2gFAsP_gezk/s640/DSC_5478.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Day
One: from St Bees to Ennerdale Bridge (15 miles/24 km)</span></b></div>
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<u><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Summary of Route</span></u><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">:
The first day of hiking begins at the beach in St. Bees village. St. Bees is in
the north-west of England; it sits on the coast in the county of Cumbria,
facing the Irish Sea. St. Bees is about 5 km south of Whitehaven and 10 km west
of the Lake District National Park border. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">From St. Bees the trail
runs north-west along the cliffs, across South Head and North Head (which are
separated by Fleswick Bay), and past the St. Bees Lighthouse. At Birkham's
Quarry the trail turns east and runs through the villages of Sandwith, Moor
Row, and Cleator before climbing steeply about 250 metres up and over Dent
Hill. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The trail descends
steeply down Raven Crag Hill, and then takes you beside Nannycatch Beck, the
River Ehen, and ends at Ennerdale Bridge, right on the edge of the Lake
District National Park.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKJUhFDpN4cXtOs7aK0emJgBdY-qwCbBAVNETNH36clBCHi5ripiFxhzQRwURIWKT5zRBKmw-BK4aWlRaPg48CbWZDQdsKiHu00Gu5wKQ_fcf0B-mmqPTC_rvJ2qM_OVj_I0rVG0ZRAZU/s1600/DSC_6313.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKJUhFDpN4cXtOs7aK0emJgBdY-qwCbBAVNETNH36clBCHi5ripiFxhzQRwURIWKT5zRBKmw-BK4aWlRaPg48CbWZDQdsKiHu00Gu5wKQ_fcf0B-mmqPTC_rvJ2qM_OVj_I0rVG0ZRAZU/s640/DSC_6313.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Walking to St Bees Beach</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I began today's hike — the
first of fourteen consecutive days of walking (averaging 14 miles/23 km per
day) — with some trepidation. I may do <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">some</i>
walking in my daily life, but I knew I was not fit enough to jump right into
long-distance hiking without having difficulty. It's been over two decades
since I've done days of 25 km walks. And those were not done consecutively! But
I have entered this adventure with the belief that I could quickly acclimatise
to the demands, and build up the stamina and fitness as we went. Who knew,
though, what the first day would bring?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Well, it was more difficult
than I imagined. The first stage on the Coast to Coast Walk is a fairly long
one (15 miles/24 km); and it features a steep ascent of 300 m (about 900 ft)
straight up the south-side of Dent Hill, about two-thirds of the way into the
day's hike. This is followed a little later by an even faster and more
precipitous descent down the north-side. Tired and wobbly-legged, you still
have to walk for another few miles to the day's destination of Ennerdale
Bridge.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3hF0aTa3yjdvK7DVoIW7lmJe5014aKml6JbroKlpOJvkFuchwt6-RiAuDxgsBwLy4l9u9J0sighJDgJPtvT6ERdnIBlYxIzJU1-eYuYnIGfJQMLdYb_bFD6UEsyXgOfLbajHu14lEBrE/s1600/DSC_6315.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3hF0aTa3yjdvK7DVoIW7lmJe5014aKml6JbroKlpOJvkFuchwt6-RiAuDxgsBwLy4l9u9J0sighJDgJPtvT6ERdnIBlYxIzJU1-eYuYnIGfJQMLdYb_bFD6UEsyXgOfLbajHu14lEBrE/s640/DSC_6315.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">St Bees Beach Coast to Coast sign</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The Coast to Coast Walk
begins on the beach at St Bees. We walked half-a-mile there from our B&B in
the village. Once at the beach we headed straight for the Coast to Coast sign.
It features a schematic map of the route, a brief history and description of
the Walk, and a photograph of Alfred Wainwright, who created the Coast to Coast
path back in 1972.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvPHf4X4cuqVp7y3Nb4sy_28X7gTnGqPOHFzHiIR1wtnjThveQlV7j3WiGsQYth09ibzAZqWZj1DbnVybUguxCW4f0kPfrVNOA6akuQELZcedrZVS-WlF2tNuOfbhuIsD1TBDBM1QJUDQ/s1600/DSC_6330.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvPHf4X4cuqVp7y3Nb4sy_28X7gTnGqPOHFzHiIR1wtnjThveQlV7j3WiGsQYth09ibzAZqWZj1DbnVybUguxCW4f0kPfrVNOA6akuQELZcedrZVS-WlF2tNuOfbhuIsD1TBDBM1QJUDQ/s640/DSC_6330.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Up South Head</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">We walked from the sign down
to the water. We dipped a booted foot into the shallow water. And then we
picked up and pocketed two small pebbles from the strand <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>— one to keep as a memento, and one to toss
into the North Sea, when we complete the Walk on September 5th. With that done
we took off, walking to the north end of the beach, crossing a wooden footbridge,
and turning west for a shirt while, before starting a faily steep climb up
South Head along a footpath that hugs the sea cliffs north of St Bees. South
Head is separated from North Head by the small Fleswick Bay. We took an awkward
hike down to the pebbled beach at Fleswick Bay — primarily to get a close-up
view of the redstoned cliff.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaS3m3whlh6ghxqAFc5mewCYH-89kWrkby0hv24F0FzDs2B2phRF8ZKKDQqj6aHvsBz1MMZsYYB8jEmoPmx-a1VtjWUuQ5O0B7EcPOx-Wv6nsJM-GVmBhakb-e1wV0lkaRtQ4FuJ79TRw/s1600/DSC_6335.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaS3m3whlh6ghxqAFc5mewCYH-89kWrkby0hv24F0FzDs2B2phRF8ZKKDQqj6aHvsBz1MMZsYYB8jEmoPmx-a1VtjWUuQ5O0B7EcPOx-Wv6nsJM-GVmBhakb-e1wV0lkaRtQ4FuJ79TRw/s640/DSC_6335.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Approaching Fleswick Bay</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">From here the path followed
the cliff edge north for quite a distance. The path is eroded quite deeply into
the meadow grass; often, it was easier to step out of the narrow groove, and
walk beside the rutted groove. Whilst keeping a close eye on the path ahead,
you also have to cope with a strong wind that whips across the headland. I had
to put my hat into my backpack. It had already been blown off my head; I didn't
want to see it carried away and down to the Irish Sea.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMLXgf4YSD10tKxn-fCaSlwAXj5iuySpIT7wDIZujnFdwTpzo1JrXkZcBzGqPsnO3Xe15Fvxbav3SwFiT8gktIY2_f4gJy78SkrYaNZT47P0Tt5UJV9MnA9esK8gywLeAz0GPsPvseBYE/s1600/DSC_6364.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="414" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMLXgf4YSD10tKxn-fCaSlwAXj5iuySpIT7wDIZujnFdwTpzo1JrXkZcBzGqPsnO3Xe15Fvxbav3SwFiT8gktIY2_f4gJy78SkrYaNZT47P0Tt5UJV9MnA9esK8gywLeAz0GPsPvseBYE/s640/DSC_6364.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">A gate on South Head</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnP73O6NZJbuYkqncTGr_KdilNmHHM7-K7NPjPiY_mMaGZyRZ5lE5S5WBId_p-6AbC5dOKDCVdqqmr4HFA91z1-YxhfiBSdiqNTHzwVpYKhpsJZBTlExFLcTdexGBlZDk8FgkdgLn-qiQ/s1600/DSC_6374.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnP73O6NZJbuYkqncTGr_KdilNmHHM7-K7NPjPiY_mMaGZyRZ5lE5S5WBId_p-6AbC5dOKDCVdqqmr4HFA91z1-YxhfiBSdiqNTHzwVpYKhpsJZBTlExFLcTdexGBlZDk8FgkdgLn-qiQ/s640/DSC_6374.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Looking north towards Whitehaven</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">We soon passed the
lighthouse near the tip of North Head, and the path began to veer north-east.
Soon enough we could gaze north along the coast — with a tremendous vista of the
Cumbrian town of Whitehaven, just a few miles along the coast. And, then, right
after passing a sandstone quarry, we turned east from the coast and began a
different kind of hiking — along narrow country lanes, and across fields and
meadowland.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzhs5OsWE2SrUo7DhI00NgxIZ_VVN2CIJRp03EWg7-bAwjvYc-kqncg0uUMLhuPrVtoZB8HMlyCqjC-x0MSnO8l96ne83To-5gehE21Ffx_RrRH1T0eAb3BZTbfL0pgjX2urbOQPaFPRs/s1600/DSC_6380.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="448" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzhs5OsWE2SrUo7DhI00NgxIZ_VVN2CIJRp03EWg7-bAwjvYc-kqncg0uUMLhuPrVtoZB8HMlyCqjC-x0MSnO8l96ne83To-5gehE21Ffx_RrRH1T0eAb3BZTbfL0pgjX2urbOQPaFPRs/s640/DSC_6380.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Michael and Clive by the Quarry</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Quote of the Day:</span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">"You'll have to remember, </span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">I am considerably younger than both of you."</span></i><span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">- Michael (who was one
year behind Tony and I </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">at boarding school in the mid-to-late 60s)</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAX8gpoxph4IDswB4hPDrWAkBV82IWA8xeJK_lrm34AhZmQ8LJr6Uc9UHnh1_IdV-aHCAQ7L2aqog9Izo_fseYNp11Gq0vA34W3_ogtyHbxMCMfvYC5RCqLsLmyKivxavDjTWcPUMqTwo/s1600/DSC_6398.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAX8gpoxph4IDswB4hPDrWAkBV82IWA8xeJK_lrm34AhZmQ8LJr6Uc9UHnh1_IdV-aHCAQ7L2aqog9Izo_fseYNp11Gq0vA34W3_ogtyHbxMCMfvYC5RCqLsLmyKivxavDjTWcPUMqTwo/s640/DSC_6398.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Going under a tunnel beneath an old rail line</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">We began to meet other Coast
to Coast hikers on the trail. We tagged along with an Australian couple for
quite a while. Encountering other walkers has two main benefits: interesting conversation
and other opinions when you are not sure in which direction the trail is
leading. Maps and guide books come out of backpacks, and discussion ensues.</span><br />
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<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2QvqxJC65Wn9XdkVZiXCvhG5QzFs9gXE9ARwl60HJhxk1HBFA-TDd_-tYsPAnglwrWC9DaCXDIZOt-uHlbIGIYuJtbMatJMO64I0NMOt34btdjUqFtXIH5a4ECE9mw5rjgSBnXJPG0UE/s1600/DSC_6416-001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="412" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2QvqxJC65Wn9XdkVZiXCvhG5QzFs9gXE9ARwl60HJhxk1HBFA-TDd_-tYsPAnglwrWC9DaCXDIZOt-uHlbIGIYuJtbMatJMO64I0NMOt34btdjUqFtXIH5a4ECE9mw5rjgSBnXJPG0UE/s640/DSC_6416-001.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Climbing the 300 m up Dent Hill</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">After a couple of hours I
could feel my little toe in each foot getting a bit sore. I was worrying about
blisters developing — a nasty source of discomfort for the long-distance hiker.
Somebody had advised me to wear two pairs of socks —an inner "liner"
and a pair of thicker merino wool socks. Later on, during our lunch-stop, I
removed the "liner" socks, and that seemed to solve the problem.
Either the thin liners were adding just a wee bit too much thickness to the
sock layer, or the toes were rubbing improperly against the skin.</span><br />
<br />
<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Tony negotiates his way over a deer stile on Dent Hill</span></td></tr>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">After about 7 miles, half of
the day's hike, I could begin to feel my legs getting sore. My lack of fitness
was starting to show. It was a case of minor discomfort for a couple of miles,
and an hour or to, but once we hit the steep climb up Dent Hill, I was having a
difficult time coping with the steep ascents and descents. The rest of the hike
that day was an arduous struggle, and I was struggling to hold on as we slowly
marched to our target.</span><br />
<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqPARqcUpwSLMZR3Ji6jwD43BD3IamlOND9Qz6n8BzBfdxoVZpRG6sR3K5Vjnb-bl1JzWFZVwYENdpoh3S4_A2RHLtZxTemnpKoFy0dV1g4vLx4PxK7mv0cXe-Q6rOSbgJN45rgpABc88/s1600/DSC_6438.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqPARqcUpwSLMZR3Ji6jwD43BD3IamlOND9Qz6n8BzBfdxoVZpRG6sR3K5Vjnb-bl1JzWFZVwYENdpoh3S4_A2RHLtZxTemnpKoFy0dV1g4vLx4PxK7mv0cXe-Q6rOSbgJN45rgpABc88/s400/DSC_6438.JPG" width="263" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Nannycatch Beck</span></td></tr>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The scenery began in
spectacular fashion, with the hike along the sea cliffs by the Irish Sea. The middle
stretch was less-interesting, as we walked across fields and meadows. But once we
got to the top of Dent Hill, it was spectacular landscape in all directions, as
slowly approahed the Lake District. The vistas up on Dent Hill were wonderful,
and the scenery down in the Valley — as we followed Nannycatch Beck (stream)
towards<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Ennerdale was beautiful.</span><br />
<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtRXI40KCN2DwE_6GC7Q1HW4mtZwtFZ_vuFE0FQdsAcDJQ_LmUPZsWZOTEFLNfj0cssUoKj37Oa35RQyiiJUTaDwWL49LWG9_ijmM3TCK0Bn902DmxX4u2omgLU8rnWmdXaIVZqpdQfK8/s1600/DSC_6439.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtRXI40KCN2DwE_6GC7Q1HW4mtZwtFZ_vuFE0FQdsAcDJQ_LmUPZsWZOTEFLNfj0cssUoKj37Oa35RQyiiJUTaDwWL49LWG9_ijmM3TCK0Bn902DmxX4u2omgLU8rnWmdXaIVZqpdQfK8/s640/DSC_6439.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Following the Nannycatch Beck</span></td></tr>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Once we got to our B&B,
the mounting stress about the physical challenges was dissipated. I had a long,
hot bath. Several glasses of iced-water, and a pint of local, Ennerdale ale.
Things rapidly improved. And after dinner, I sat in my room to compose this
first post about the Walk. Stay tuned! Tomorrow we move into the Lake District
National Park. We walk from Ennerdale Bridge to Rosthwaite (in Borrowdale).</span></div>
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<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcRDAUqV7x4R5r5IwqWG9RlBA1KoyY7gi_bNV88dZlYNxRpNvcVxjAQmF7CWu2Xv4DJ6CZa_yqfAsiuwUdNxiRhloe5DvF75IpSDPpWHMeCDUd9ZwkWqkTcnt7njuiWOZtnCA-5kdNlKo/s1600/DSC_6441.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcRDAUqV7x4R5r5IwqWG9RlBA1KoyY7gi_bNV88dZlYNxRpNvcVxjAQmF7CWu2Xv4DJ6CZa_yqfAsiuwUdNxiRhloe5DvF75IpSDPpWHMeCDUd9ZwkWqkTcnt7njuiWOZtnCA-5kdNlKo/s640/DSC_6441.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Approaching Ennerdale Bridge</span></td></tr>
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<br /></div>
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<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Dedication</span></b></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This
hike is dedicated to Bill and Barb Cannon. </span></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Bill
and Barb are the parents of my good friend Bill Cannon. Barb and Bill were
generous hosts of their children’s friends in the '60s and '70s. They were keen
hikers, and deeply involved with the Bruce Trail Association — specifically,
with the Iroquoia Club, which manages the Trail from Grimsby to Milton. </span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">During
WWII Bill’s father was evacuated as a twelve-year-old in 1939 from Newcastle to
the Lake District in England. It was Bill’s experiences there during the War
which made him an avid hiker and a lover of the Lake District (shades of Alfred
Wainwright!). </span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Bill
and Barb, and other like-minded British immigrants to Canada in the '50s and
'60s, brought their love of outdoor hiking — “rambling”, they called it back then
— to their new homeland. Many of these immigrants got involved with the nascent
Bruce Trail Association. On many weekends throughout the year Barb and Bill
would lead an afternoon hike along some nearby section of the Bruce Trail. The
family group would often be augmented by several of their children’s friends. </span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">It was on hikes like these,
with the Cannons, that I discovered the joys of hiking in the early 1970s. My
wife Barbara and I began walking the Bruce Trail (in consecutive sections) in
the spring of 1992. By the autumn of the following year, we had hiked along the
escarpment trail from Queenston Heights in Niagara all the way to Hilton Falls,
just north of the 401 —<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>almost a third
(250 km) of the total length from Niagara to Tobermory. The rest, I suppose, is
for the future.</span></div>
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<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSvU6mOEW46ZrFlkmFY8-e6FewTdfzix_6WS-k1Hfo4Pnzy9JKdYQ5VVeLsZjmyHtBeny8rJ8X1rvhC_-nSafG9IMbk62ymHx5WLWu_4l6OexZUP3AsdbF_86_OmFAJ7HR7Sxx2ryObsA/s1600/imgID22157626.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="442" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSvU6mOEW46ZrFlkmFY8-e6FewTdfzix_6WS-k1Hfo4Pnzy9JKdYQ5VVeLsZjmyHtBeny8rJ8X1rvhC_-nSafG9IMbk62ymHx5WLWu_4l6OexZUP3AsdbF_86_OmFAJ7HR7Sxx2ryObsA/s640/imgID22157626.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Alfred Wainwright</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">"This is a walk that ought
to be done in comfort and for pleasure or not at all." </span></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%;">-
Alfred Wainwright</span></div>
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<br /></div>
Clive Baughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10523779808271053053noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8282904905780175338.post-52760224221182185262015-08-21T17:45:00.000-04:002015-12-12T22:47:42.593-05:00Photo Essay: Coast to Coast Walk - Old Norse Landscape Terms<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</div>
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</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT6b_ER9w7MruIBxTVfY_FoYVG2CaLVjX5cR4Cai7h6cHbppQUrDHJOICkdh6TSRLZRmki-O8wkgoSA17GJWAySNEQEEyj4CwjD7waN4VGSoM4GDDZBnaG93v-FICqofdE2yijnyLHQjY/s1600/udhr_oldnorse.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="182" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT6b_ER9w7MruIBxTVfY_FoYVG2CaLVjX5cR4Cai7h6cHbppQUrDHJOICkdh6TSRLZRmki-O8wkgoSA17GJWAySNEQEEyj4CwjD7waN4VGSoM4GDDZBnaG93v-FICqofdE2yijnyLHQjY/s400/udhr_oldnorse.gif" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The Lord's Prayer written in Old Norse lettering</span><br />
<br />
<br />
<br /></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;">
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<br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "tahoma" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="background-color: #ffe599;">Common Landscape
Names in Cumbria and Yorkshire</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: #ffe599;"><span style="font-family: "tahoma" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">(derived
from Norse Words)</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt;">There are certain
terms used over and over in the Lake District, the Dales, and the North
Yorkshire Moors to name landscape features: some of them identify natural
features; some are attached to features established by original human
settlements. Here is a basic glossary of terms used frequently in this region.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgbw1KrwE43yceTnenetGK4mhAU_kvVcqVM9tD0T0xJpAgfp_STNAj2maj-gOTY2GNtQA72iumvkEdWJBI7HRjoEoJsBPfGsZca2mD3RbqX89wAXYO5nXinpN23nTLxKt6jOPWjCBAgf0/s1600/hd_easedalebeck-hjr.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="308" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgbw1KrwE43yceTnenetGK4mhAU_kvVcqVM9tD0T0xJpAgfp_STNAj2maj-gOTY2GNtQA72iumvkEdWJBI7HRjoEoJsBPfGsZca2mD3RbqX89wAXYO5nXinpN23nTLxKt6jOPWjCBAgf0/s640/hd_easedalebeck-hjr.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Easedale Beck in the Lake District</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "tahoma" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpPfF7t9MsPy9kUptRfrwTMWABGASK8FJzUTAtE1_-ni_WT-DRynbpiGrbT38PVJL3Jz7_MbqoeC6iw30sMkT1CMKqpk-LC3kSAoEKKbel2SAlnqDJGmuH-rHtClQMEgzxYeosOIJfQYg/s1600/yorkshire-dales_2008471c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="398" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpPfF7t9MsPy9kUptRfrwTMWABGASK8FJzUTAtE1_-ni_WT-DRynbpiGrbT38PVJL3Jz7_MbqoeC6iw30sMkT1CMKqpk-LC3kSAoEKKbel2SAlnqDJGmuH-rHtClQMEgzxYeosOIJfQYg/s640/yorkshire-dales_2008471c.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Swaledale in the Yorkshire Dales</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "tahoma" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">gill or ghyll = small, narrow valley or ravine</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJdze5bsy9ECFyzcDogyvM_wqLlIFg4ol9k5811Y54V9xiLL6SrmW4TKIoJm7G1UVQIdBZMLV7jCTt2FccpyXslbkcuMsGJsU16PwFEN2v-1OjHsWS93X_6a5gTvOzcm-cQ1n9PppWW1c/s1600/gapinggill01abig.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJdze5bsy9ECFyzcDogyvM_wqLlIFg4ol9k5811Y54V9xiLL6SrmW4TKIoJm7G1UVQIdBZMLV7jCTt2FccpyXslbkcuMsGJsU16PwFEN2v-1OjHsWS93X_6a5gTvOzcm-cQ1n9PppWW1c/s640/gapinggill01abig.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Gaping Gill in Yorkshire</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "tahoma" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">hause = mountain pass</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "tahoma" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">how = hill</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "tahoma" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">keld or kell = spring or well</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDOk8SO97QBUPzATokA0knGyyxeWTxE4g6RikFDtFhQ2Rqg-zhVDWJZGSCB3ZJIMPw0_ME70_9IV9cNUJAqarfAL5iWe3GUoFLcFHCrsEOES0uoZD_-5ZFjbJvQZgfi3E5v_dXPFfFnpU/s1600/Keld_from_Pennine_Way.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDOk8SO97QBUPzATokA0knGyyxeWTxE4g6RikFDtFhQ2Rqg-zhVDWJZGSCB3ZJIMPw0_ME70_9IV9cNUJAqarfAL5iWe3GUoFLcFHCrsEOES0uoZD_-5ZFjbJvQZgfi3E5v_dXPFfFnpU/s640/Keld_from_Pennine_Way.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Keld photographed from the Pennine Way</span></td></tr>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "tahoma" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "tahoma" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">knott = rocky hilltop</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "tahoma" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">laithe or leethe = barn, agricultural building</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "tahoma" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span><span style="font-family: "tahoma" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">mere = lake</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "tahoma" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh5E2BijEH9NjV4m1F356-3GGHMGW21Fx0B35BNWnkyzh2WKZyp-rfu_o8fhyphenhyphenCkkNh7pqxy-0Khp-FzPfE69tiblSWMcMiDluCLzhS0syyQN-vUWE27zk2QTERkInf5me-iAECmtEx89I/s1600/12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh5E2BijEH9NjV4m1F356-3GGHMGW21Fx0B35BNWnkyzh2WKZyp-rfu_o8fhyphenhyphenCkkNh7pqxy-0Khp-FzPfE69tiblSWMcMiDluCLzhS0syyQN-vUWE27zk2QTERkInf5me-iAECmtEx89I/s640/12.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Lake Windermere in the Lake District </span></td></tr>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWJd_E5WGQzO3Qqh4apMAe7Dxpy4uGCK9RSspUA2e63vVNErp8Boa4QVXmC2IveyKi5bnI-BYS1Tx64i7JBYpEj5Kqjqp8fmhqZwRk4ah2wXegn5MKEvK7ev849k0JoTbCpMjqvDvULfg/s1600/Scafell_Pike_from_Broad_Crag.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWJd_E5WGQzO3Qqh4apMAe7Dxpy4uGCK9RSspUA2e63vVNErp8Boa4QVXmC2IveyKi5bnI-BYS1Tx64i7JBYpEj5Kqjqp8fmhqZwRk4ah2wXegn5MKEvK7ev849k0JoTbCpMjqvDvULfg/s640/Scafell_Pike_from_Broad_Crag.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Scafell Pike in the Lake District</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "tahoma" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "tahoma" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">scar or scaur = cliff or rocky outcrop with steep cliff</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHO7_2H8XVo-K3cOoVmQ1Vvrutfik3xCPMbJP8kUxDM1w2iKNCpFZhT20J0H8B0aceP2tVGdBCqtgyzAeADqEpKk69zMjppFZtrlt4s0ZeJg35PMG3YvcT_waYV-BSXRL9ja4PaePFLgQ/s1600/Ariel+View.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHO7_2H8XVo-K3cOoVmQ1Vvrutfik3xCPMbJP8kUxDM1w2iKNCpFZhT20J0H8B0aceP2tVGdBCqtgyzAeADqEpKk69zMjppFZtrlt4s0ZeJg35PMG3YvcT_waYV-BSXRL9ja4PaePFLgQ/s640/Ariel+View.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Rossthwaite in the Borrowdale region</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "tahoma" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8Isq3Ltt7Sn1n_mXe6pux5ly9KI1lu87T_-ibEJhm2-iDenVJEo4KEdAdz7u5u3PGkV7NMmM4CJBJaJwfDyUfyheiSuNh55LUPYFLInAPloICk6yFBt_2s4a4NmdWjQJ2v7KVXya3skE/s1600/Red-Pan-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="302" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8Isq3Ltt7Sn1n_mXe6pux5ly9KI1lu87T_-ibEJhm2-iDenVJEo4KEdAdz7u5u3PGkV7NMmM4CJBJaJwfDyUfyheiSuNh55LUPYFLInAPloICk6yFBt_2s4a4NmdWjQJ2v7KVXya3skE/s640/Red-Pan-1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Red Tarn in the Lake District</span></td></tr>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<b><span style="font-family: "tahoma" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> Resources</span></b></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "tahoma" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Lakeland Terms: <a href="http://www.iainwest.com/celtic.htm">http://www.iainwest.com/celtic.htm</a></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "tahoma" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "tahoma" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Yorkshire Terms: <a href="http://www.viking.no/e/england/yorkshire_norse.htm">http://www.viking.no/e/england/yorkshire_norse.htm</a></span></div>
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Clive Baughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10523779808271053053noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8282904905780175338.post-61748257983584612982015-08-20T14:58:00.000-04:002015-12-12T22:46:42.897-05:00Photo Essay: Coast to Coast Walk - Preparation<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwjuJ7tDFUqfcV9oYATegD5GBzbzp0P8qgfh_pASfBY5p5h9HqAR50KPCwNz7wKYRpNTxrxAmJp112NE01OSt-O_ITK6IUZF9FVbq1ZYAaLZQacpW08nLaFV4vKGGglU9lC9p647Jm9nY/s1600/Coast_to_coast_signpost_Rogan%2527s_Seat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="234" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwjuJ7tDFUqfcV9oYATegD5GBzbzp0P8qgfh_pASfBY5p5h9HqAR50KPCwNz7wKYRpNTxrxAmJp112NE01OSt-O_ITK6IUZF9FVbq1ZYAaLZQacpW08nLaFV4vKGGglU9lC9p647Jm9nY/s640/Coast_to_coast_signpost_Rogan%2527s_Seat.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></b></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></b></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; line-height: 115%;">The Preparation</span></b></span></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A
lot of the fun in travelling — for me at least — lies in the planning. There
is always a long period of preparation, full of research, reverie and
anticipation. The amount of preparation sometimes seems to be all out of
proportion with the eventual pay-off; nonetheless, it is always one of the most
exhilarating parts of the process. Here are some of the elements in play when
planning an extended holiday.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: x-large; line-height: 115%;"> Inspiration</span></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhImJ9pKg5xBzrmCfHvKQDu1_Z_arFzd0q_jLzyzNpmHX_y9_C0WKGtz6OxN6zWXSs2QCN1Npa6pmvdd_wBDccwLlHeeuZ4HBt1pQ_idL2kCffOzWIhDUMpW_6swrRb4Yy80ci1ugJe7hY/s1600/John+Lodge.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhImJ9pKg5xBzrmCfHvKQDu1_Z_arFzd0q_jLzyzNpmHX_y9_C0WKGtz6OxN6zWXSs2QCN1Npa6pmvdd_wBDccwLlHeeuZ4HBt1pQ_idL2kCffOzWIhDUMpW_6swrRb4Yy80ci1ugJe7hY/s1600/John+Lodge.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">John Lodge</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The
idea for doing a special retirement-year project came from an old school
friend, John Lodge, who marked his own retirement (in December 2010) by buying
a motorcycle, and doing a tour with it through Italy and Sardinia in June 2011.
John did the planning and preparation for his journey from January to May 2011;
and then spent all of June doing the travel. And he blogged about it — the
entire process: buying the motorcycle and its accessories, re-learning the
techniques of motorcycle riding, planning the route, purchasing the gear and
supplies, and so on. I read through all of his posts, and found the whole thing
quite inspiring. The blog is called <a href="http://italytour2011.blogspot.co.uk/2011/07/friends-in-every-port.html"><i>Touring the Italian Peninsula on a Honda CB500.</i></a></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> I thought, "I should do something like that". It was
not just the travelling part that intrigued me, it was the process of planning
and documenting the adventure.</span></div>
<br />
<br />
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</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: x-large; line-height: 115%;">Idea</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">With
John's example in the back of my mind, the idea for my own adventure was born
in the midst of text messaging on Skype with my good friend Tony (who lives in
Wimbledon, UK). We do this texting every weekend during the Premier League
season — usually on Saturdays at 10:00 my time (EST) and 15:00 his time (GMT) —
as we follow that week's match involving Southampton Football Club. Our support
for the "Saints" goes back to the early 60s. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Whilst
listening to live commentary about the match on our computers, and Skyping
back-and-forth about the progress of the game, we also digress into other
topics. During one game I was musing with Tony about doing some sort of special
project to mark my impending retirement in June 2015. We mentioned possible
hiking trips and quickly agreed on the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Coast
to Coast Walk</i> designed by Alfred Wainwright. Nine days later I contacted
Michael, another close English friend, who quickly agreed to join us. The
hiking trio was established. And the serious planning began.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: x-large; line-height: 115%;">Accommodation</span></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjutTSrc_Pu7tLZvmRDYh4-z25wZDE1xfaenNM0vIXIZjpMZCkm8nFT_XaDRuYERtUJ8OjhyOtjWf8NLp6ROsuJjBuAPaygrdULsnZcpk17EHTjQtkE-SGMlcr0bEJaj6Iov7WGSn3Ewt4/s1600/2495177_300x300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjutTSrc_Pu7tLZvmRDYh4-z25wZDE1xfaenNM0vIXIZjpMZCkm8nFT_XaDRuYERtUJ8OjhyOtjWf8NLp6ROsuJjBuAPaygrdULsnZcpk17EHTjQtkE-SGMlcr0bEJaj6Iov7WGSn3Ewt4/s320/2495177_300x300.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Booking your holiday</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; line-height: 115%;"> </span></span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The primary
consideration for a trip like this is accommodation. The key factors involved
are convenience, comfort, carriage of equipment, and cost. All of these have to
be juggled.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">If
economy is your most important consideration, then camping might be your first
choice. But you face two main issues: finding camping sites <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>— whether out in the wild, or in an organised
camping site — close to the terminus of each of the fourteen stages could be
very difficult; and carrying all of your camping gear and clothing in a large
backpack. Every day would be a physical struggle — especially on those days
featuring lots of steep climbing up and down the fells.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtHBqblMcrddilkTzNgRFu0e6EBMM8WNiQgHq3hqR67Z6R-2oGjlV7LWqFq1U2_G3Eh1snOtMJVGkG34J92rydXYsG6w0JhJP7ZTIP87B8o4ajQq9cEQq2b_v3y9fJA5K2v6zZz_IjJRc/s1600/region_lake-district-rework-2.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtHBqblMcrddilkTzNgRFu0e6EBMM8WNiQgHq3hqR67Z6R-2oGjlV7LWqFq1U2_G3Eh1snOtMJVGkG34J92rydXYsG6w0JhJP7ZTIP87B8o4ajQq9cEQq2b_v3y9fJA5K2v6zZz_IjJRc/s400/region_lake-district-rework-2.gif" width="347" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Lake District Hostels</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Next,
in order of economy, would be staying overnight in hostels. This is a lot more
convenient and comfortable — there are plenty of hostels all along the Coast to
Coast Walk. This might be the best option for the young, or the young at heart,
who don't mind sharing facilities and dormitories.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">But
for those of us keen on comfort and privacy — and able to pay for it — staying
in B&Bs or hotels is probably the natural choice. But there are a lot of
older folk competing for such prime accommodation, and the choices are limited
at certain times of the year. The smart thing to do is to book ahead, to ensure
you get the sort of thing you want; if you leave it to the day before — phoning
from the previous day's overnight location, for example — you could be out of
luck.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">But
to find and book fourteen different establishments that fit the bill could be a
long and trying process — although a lot easier to accomplish via the internet.
One possibility — and the choice that we made — is to hire a company that specializes
in booking the entire 14-day journey. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiq5BH0O37fQ7pTjRzc2y_6n9bn8KZFHaNtuBjDNYuTfj1zZxWtuKgVD8m1T-VwDTnUWNeL81pwVO8XFtSmQLNIKDoWpfmUHWiU9KpKImgF1k3d7z0_6TxY8WxIEsolukTLxABxPG_83Y/s1600/ITINERARY-map%252Bfinal.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiq5BH0O37fQ7pTjRzc2y_6n9bn8KZFHaNtuBjDNYuTfj1zZxWtuKgVD8m1T-VwDTnUWNeL81pwVO8XFtSmQLNIKDoWpfmUHWiU9KpKImgF1k3d7z0_6TxY8WxIEsolukTLxABxPG_83Y/s640/ITINERARY-map%252Bfinal.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">These
companies provide a range of options: they could simply book the accommodation;
they could provide a guide to accompany you on the hike, if you would prefer an
expert hand; and they will also ferry your suitcases and bags by van from
B&B to B&B. This last option is the one we chose — it means you can
bring a reasonable selection of clothing and equipment, and not have to carry
it with you along the trail. You just need a day-pack with a minimal amount of
stuff: a packed lunch, light rain gear, guide books, maps, camera, and
binoculars.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">So
we booked early, through a Glasgow-based company called <a href="http://www.macsadventure.com/holiday-109/coast-to-coast-walk">Macs Adventure </a>— at
recommended B&Bs and hotels — and knew exactly where we were staying each
night. With everything planned, and the bulk of the baggage shipped on ahead
each day by van, we would focus our energies on the task of each day's hike.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: x-large; line-height: 115%;">Clothing</span></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi4Nv80g1Ta_5sAebHWu4zRFoiz-ujqJ56sP-iXiQ3qlpz6S_xEdE9hNeCeeMdOURgEAOXAbd0VjPWF87jxv1gkzUT5oWjyC2kmqeL7nnvHo6PDsA0jkChIliyD_6QVWwX05iuEkq8vCg/s1600/11885660_10153195120815819_5052579654903666811_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="468" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi4Nv80g1Ta_5sAebHWu4zRFoiz-ujqJ56sP-iXiQ3qlpz6S_xEdE9hNeCeeMdOURgEAOXAbd0VjPWF87jxv1gkzUT5oWjyC2kmqeL7nnvHo6PDsA0jkChIliyD_6QVWwX05iuEkq8vCg/s640/11885660_10153195120815819_5052579654903666811_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A
word now about the type of clothing required for such a long slog across
England.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">1)
Hiking boots are probably the most important item necessary for long-distance
walking. You need thick soles with a good tread to provide good traction on
loose stone and slippery rock. There should be lots of support for the ankles. A waterproof top (such as Gore-Tex) is important to keep the
feet dry in heavy rain or boggy conditions.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">2)
Socks should be comfortable. Avoid cotton; merino wool is a good alternative.
You might consider two layers: a light synthetic fabric next to the skin (a
"liner"); and the merino wool socks on top. The liner
"wicks" the moisture away from the feet and into the socks.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">3)
Upper body clothing should be layered — two or three layers, depending on the
weather. Again, avoid cotton; it will create excessive moisture on the body.
Start with a light synthetic material (polyester) in the form of a
short-sleeved T-shirt. The second layer should also be light and synthetic — a
long-sleeved shirt (in bright sun), or a fleece-styled sweater. Two layers
ought to be enough on a warm, sunny day. If it's cold, windy, or rainy, you
could add a third layer - a light, breathable and waterproof jacket made of
polyester, or similar synthetic material. If you have the money, how about Gore-Tex?</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">4) Polyester
is also a suitable material for shorts and rain paints. It will make them light
and breathable. Avoid cotton and denim; it is too heavy and it holds the
moisture (sweat or rain) next to the skin.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: x-large; line-height: 115%;">Equipment/Tools</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIwClBQkGRxC8B09Wu_XzMoHaYHDlcgETE_8xDDxwVg4-wBl3DWz_PQp1JSVvrE__DcPAd47n1h2q-tQOPm8mEJMD3lTrTd6YlXrkUz-hlxz7_gkhSrkqaaOobX69lH9eAmFQhnnlwp08/s1600/DSC_6029.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="312" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIwClBQkGRxC8B09Wu_XzMoHaYHDlcgETE_8xDDxwVg4-wBl3DWz_PQp1JSVvrE__DcPAd47n1h2q-tQOPm8mEJMD3lTrTd6YlXrkUz-hlxz7_gkhSrkqaaOobX69lH9eAmFQhnnlwp08/s640/DSC_6029.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Each
to his own in this department; but these are the most important items I will
have on the Coast to Coast Walk:</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">1) I'll
have my Nikon D7000 DSLR (digital, single-lens reflex) camera, with an 18-105
mm zoom lens. I would have liked to have my longer telephoto zoom as well; but it's
quite heavy, and the number of times I would use it would not justify its
inclusion.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">2) Mini camera tripod to get old-styled "selfies" of the trio. Also can be used to stabilize camera for making videos. </span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">3)
Binoculars for getting close-up views of unfamiliar British birds — of the
avian variety.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">4)
Zoom H2n "Handy Recorder" (audio recorder). For recording conversations
or outdoor soundscapes.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglmH7U-HRyqSLNJgiTZczrel8jKcV3p-INlGKBy51ZfPlSPCAkpO9GAIUiBFwDNiVo8ZJHp9cW0dB5OBddmn1sF3rCtWHtYAfDtQ02KBgd4VQasFcGuJ11sOQFsQbQ-5WpwDM-nX9XROU/s1600/DSC_6050.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="193" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglmH7U-HRyqSLNJgiTZczrel8jKcV3p-INlGKBy51ZfPlSPCAkpO9GAIUiBFwDNiVo8ZJHp9cW0dB5OBddmn1sF3rCtWHtYAfDtQ02KBgd4VQasFcGuJ11sOQFsQbQ-5WpwDM-nX9XROU/s640/DSC_6050.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Telescopic Hiking Poles</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">5) Walking
Poles (similar to cross-country ski-poles) are useful for "older
folk" — especially when negotiating the steep uphill or downhill sections
of a trail. They help to protect the knees and joints. And you can actually
progress more quickly. Get telescopic poles that you can adjust to any height, and change for uphill and downhill situations.</span><br />
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">6) An orienteering compass to use in conjunction with a map.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">7)
And, of course, my ultrabook laptop computer to use in preparing the blog posts
throughout this journey!</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: x-large; line-height: 115%;">Guides</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2GabOOH5LJxmgxi3MEspQnp3Cu9DtzKCHVmT8ThyphenhyphenO8XJkpUDsnFQFAjhIlTOutZOCLZiLs8l2Asvln5iJpbYA9eZbIHyVyJ8GaRjQunOBm7fQUOpfSMELwpQTtj3-pU_IRhV4rPbSpgc/s1600/DSC_6036.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="502" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2GabOOH5LJxmgxi3MEspQnp3Cu9DtzKCHVmT8ThyphenhyphenO8XJkpUDsnFQFAjhIlTOutZOCLZiLs8l2Asvln5iJpbYA9eZbIHyVyJ8GaRjQunOBm7fQUOpfSMELwpQTtj3-pU_IRhV4rPbSpgc/s640/DSC_6036.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Books and Maps</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: large;"></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Some useful resources and reference works to
provide advice and information: </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">1) <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">A Coast to Coast Walk: A Pictorial Guide </i>(Revised
Edition - 2003) by Alfred Wainwright — responsible for this whole thing!</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">2) <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Coast to Coast Path</i> (Sixth Edition -
2014) by Henry Stedman</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">3) <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Collins Bird Guide</i> (2nd Edition - 2009)
by Lars Svensson</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">4) <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Collins Gem: Wildflowers</i> by Martin
Walters</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">5) <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Coast to Coast: West</i> - Harvey Map XT40</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">6) <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Coast to Coast: East</i> - Harvey Map XT40</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijCP1ep25cqOHRHcDHPzM5JqXwfKkQL4bl3W_owX9zIcSwj-YXWTZPCFuPTnl9a5d5oyL7XXdqKj6FzWEe1no91amXSW-FHyGj_OOsZfbwbU3Eq0yphrw2si12HnR_lMP9Ham4ldzHZdU/s1600/DSC_5455.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="448" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijCP1ep25cqOHRHcDHPzM5JqXwfKkQL4bl3W_owX9zIcSwj-YXWTZPCFuPTnl9a5d5oyL7XXdqKj6FzWEe1no91amXSW-FHyGj_OOsZfbwbU3Eq0yphrw2si12HnR_lMP9Ham4ldzHZdU/s640/DSC_5455.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Left-to-Right: Clive, Michael & Tony</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
Clive Baughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10523779808271053053noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8282904905780175338.post-53691780719473075162015-08-11T23:36:00.001-04:002015-08-13T15:02:21.851-04:00Photo Essay: The Coast to Coast Walk - an Introduction<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">As a special project to mark
my retirement from teaching in 2015, I am going to hike the Coast to Coast Walk
from August 23 to September 5, 2015 — fourteen days of walking through some of
the most beautiful areas of northern England.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The Coast to Coast Walk was
devised by famed fellwalker Alfred Wainwright in 1972. Although it is one of
the most popular long-distance trails in the UK (equivalent to the Bruce Trail
in Ontario, which runs from Niagara to Tobermory), the Coast to Coast is not an
official, national trail. It runs for 192 miles (309 km) across the northern
neck of England, traversing three very different — and very beautiful — national
parks: the Lake District National Park in Cumbria, near the north-west coast;
the Yorkshire Dales National Park, which also has the Pennine Way running
through it; and the North York Moors National Park, which is close to the
north-east coast.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoj101H1PpY9QfS3cdEqDzfpRb_5mAm9WOicenpXURsXtkHFsYkg3NxHK9pQu_6yieDTlUhyphenhyphenxJisQlLSBmCISeLrQOm-Awchdrdjmn3BBA5QbXRz8eddXNDkPxch_ALaTlVBS7RSPqzEA/s1600/coast-to-coast-walk-map.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="234" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoj101H1PpY9QfS3cdEqDzfpRb_5mAm9WOicenpXURsXtkHFsYkg3NxHK9pQu_6yieDTlUhyphenhyphenxJisQlLSBmCISeLrQOm-Awchdrdjmn3BBA5QbXRz8eddXNDkPxch_ALaTlVBS7RSPqzEA/s640/coast-to-coast-walk-map.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">The Coast to Coast Walk crosses England from the coast of Cumbria to the coast of Yorkshire</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: x-small; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Most hikers who tackle the
trail walk it west-to-east, in order to keep the wind and the sun behind them.
The trail begins, therefore, on the west coast of England in St. Bees, Cumbria
- a small village on the north-west coast, about five miles (eight km) south of
the town of Whitehaven. St. Bees overlooks the Irish Sea, with the Isle of Man
lying to the west about half-way between the English coast and Northern Ireland.
The Coast to Coast Walk ends on the east coast in the Yorkshire village of
Robin Hood's Bay, about five miles (eight km) south-east of Whitby, overlooking
the North Sea.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikEx8dRl0UGFAevOSGD6BjSXTl1iSVeqI5_7IGTI-Mab4L9WPqy59Y9FDJ50haOMhY7AK4ckd2IgaUMcJPPBogBp6AS8vP7koWZtQx1f46CUXN31M7rdrgo3VxpRATlBX3v8y6ZJy9D78/s1600/article-1165870-02BF494D0000044D-921_468x343.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikEx8dRl0UGFAevOSGD6BjSXTl1iSVeqI5_7IGTI-Mab4L9WPqy59Y9FDJ50haOMhY7AK4ckd2IgaUMcJPPBogBp6AS8vP7koWZtQx1f46CUXN31M7rdrgo3VxpRATlBX3v8y6ZJy9D78/s640/article-1165870-02BF494D0000044D-921_468x343.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Alfred Wainwright walking the Lakeland fells</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Alfred Wainwright was born
in Blackburn, Lancashire in 1907. He was raised in the city and began his
working career there as an accountant. Even as a young lad he was a keen
long-distance walker. He also showed an early interest in cartography and
drawing. Wainwright's long love-affair with the fells (hills) of the Lake
District began in 1930, at the age of 23. He spent a week's holiday there with
his cousin Eric Beardsall. In 1941 he moved to the Lake District, taking a cut
in pay to do so, working as an accountant in the Borough Treasury Office in
Kendal, Westmorland. He would live and work in Kendal until his retirement in
1967. He died in 1991.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjstoJGu7g73Sn0XamMk3vePS_brC8SHFMsnMbze-c_MVBfuVPmxo85lMTy8Tg6qHZ12uDt-80N3hbSZBgL_iFbO3jFhyphenhyphen6jMOEmdo_A4hyphenhyphenZBjHA2eWmvQZnErmoCQuu1bWPFs8HpPHWyXI/s1600/wainwrightauctionlot.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="436" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjstoJGu7g73Sn0XamMk3vePS_brC8SHFMsnMbze-c_MVBfuVPmxo85lMTy8Tg6qHZ12uDt-80N3hbSZBgL_iFbO3jFhyphenhyphen6jMOEmdo_A4hyphenhyphenZBjHA2eWmvQZnErmoCQuu1bWPFs8HpPHWyXI/s640/wainwrightauctionlot.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In 1952 Wainwright began
work on the first of seven hikers' guides to the fells of the Lake District.
The series was dubbed <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">A Pictorial Guide
to the Lakeland Fells</i>. The first — a guide to the Eastern fells — came out
in 1955. Six more volumes followed over the next 11 years, an average of a book
every two years. He produced about one page every evening. These guides are
unique because all of the illustrations and maps are hand drawn by the author,
and the text also features Wainwright's own hand-lettering, instead of being
printed using a traditional typeface.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Wainwright came up with the
idea of a west-to-east hiking trail across the neck of England in 1972. He had prepared
a book about the Pennine Way in his own inimitable style back in 1968. The
Pennine Way runs south-to-north for 267 miles (429 km) up the northern spine of
England, from Edale in the Derbyshire Peak District, through the Yorkshire
Dales and the Northumberland National Park, ending just short of the Scottish
border. Wainwright wasn't that enamoured with that particular trail; in some
closing comments at the end of his Coast to Coast book, he describes the
Pennine Way as "far longer and<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>a greater
challenge to stamina, but most of it lies over dreary moorlands." The
Coast to Coast trail, on the other hand, he writes, "is, in my opinion,
immeasurably superior in scenic qualities although it has no Hadrian's Wall to
stimulate the imagination ... [It] is enjoyable for its beauty, for the
dramatic variations of landscape, and for its many interesting relics, some
rooted in prehistory." He concludes his comparison of the two trails with
this pithy statement: "I finished the Pennine Way with relief, the Coast
to Coast walk with regret. That's the difference."</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">It took Alfred Wainwright a
year to plan and explore his Coast to Coast trail. His scheme contained four
main objectives: to avoid towns; to link together the three National Parks
already there; to keep to high ground wherever it was practicable; and to use
only rights of way and areas of open access. His book, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">A Coast to Coast Walk: A Pictorial Guide</i> was completed and
published in 1973 by the Westmorland Gazette. Because of legal restrictions
that arose later (after land changed hands), and increasing traffic, and land
erosion, the trail has had to be regularly re-routed over the years. Four
revised editions of the guide have been published <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>since 1973; the most recent was published by
Frances Lincoln of London in 2003.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Wainwright divided the Coast
to Coast route into 12 stages. His idea was to have each stage end in a place
where overnight accommodation would be available. Most of the stages he came up
with began and ended with low ground, and included a single up-and-down stretch
during the course of the day's hike. A couple of the stages were much longer
than the average, and included more than one extended spell of steep walking. The
majority of walkers these days tackle the trail in 14 or 15 stages. Hiking the
trail every day for two weeks means a daily average of 14 miles (22 km). If you
hike at an average speed of 2.5-3.0 miles/hour (depending on how much change of
elevation you have to deal with), that means a daily hike of about seven hours.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">It needs to be emphasized,
of course, that although Wainwright's trail is laid out in a careful and
efficient way, there is no exact route you have to follow, and no single method
of negotiating one's course across the country. The idea is to take the general
idea, but to innovate as the whim takes you, or to adjust your plan in response
to vagaries of circumstance — whether of human or natural causes. Our own approach,
however, is set firmly by the pre-arranging all of our B&B and hotel
accommodation. The main idea is to set oneself a challenge, but also to enjoy the
entire process for its own sake. You're only going to do it once — presumably —
so get the most out of it while you can.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">My friends Michael and Tony,
with whom I attended boarding school in the mid-to-late '60s, will be my
companions on this grand hiking adventure. We will be walking the Coast to
Coast trail for 14 straight days from August 23rd. to September 5th. Follow our
progress daily on this blog!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><b>Resources</b>: <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">A Coast to Coast Walk - Revised Edition</i>
(2003) by A. Wainwright, published by Frances Lincoln, London; <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Coast to Coast Path - Sixth Edition </i>by
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<br /></div>
<br />Clive Baughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10523779808271053053noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8282904905780175338.post-15657979738134375292015-06-10T21:17:00.000-04:002015-06-11T08:45:28.331-04:00Album Review: "Shadows in the Night" by Bob Dylan<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 20pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"></span></span></u><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">"Fools
give you reasons; wise men never try." </span>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">(Rodgers & Hammerstein)</span></span></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHqKCcSSG-tqrZO0pkqMjYYvgwGxA2FiaLWYFuZtU3khoH_Dclvidr_ZpZXe8paYa8WhkBsp8geckyRAchsZ7y6QgOCIRzYGCOZPzign7RsJ3XqJGhjgcjwAR7dbdwSuhZrYu9WcPq42c/s1600/1035x1035-MI0003819408.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHqKCcSSG-tqrZO0pkqMjYYvgwGxA2FiaLWYFuZtU3khoH_Dclvidr_ZpZXe8paYa8WhkBsp8geckyRAchsZ7y6QgOCIRzYGCOZPzign7RsJ3XqJGhjgcjwAR7dbdwSuhZrYu9WcPq42c/s320/1035x1035-MI0003819408.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">The album cover</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"></span></span><br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">The official release date of
Bob Dylan's double-album <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Blonde On Blonde</i>
was May, 1966. Dylan turned 25 that month. The album marked the peak of his
rock 'n' roll career. It was the third of a brilliant trilogy (which includes <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Bringing It All Back Home</i> and <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Highway 61 Revisited</i>) released in
1965-1966. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Blonde On Blonde</i> is
cram-full of great songs: including "Visions of Johanna", "I
Want You", "Stuck Inside of Mobile With the Memphis Blues
Again", and "Just Like a Woman". Dylan was operating at that
time at such a white-hot level of creativity that he seemed able to toss off
songs on demand - often completing lyrics in the studio, whilst the session
musicians sat around playing cards and patiently waiting for the finished song
(viz. "Sad Eyed Lady of the Lowlands").</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">May, 1966 was also something
of a peak for Frank Sinatra (who was 50 years old then). Reprise Records
released his album <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Strangers in the Night</i>.
It proved to be Sinatra's most commercially successful album. And its title
song became a #1 hit in the U.K. But Frank hated the song. He called it "a
piece of shit" and "the worst fucking song that I have ever
heard." That probably explains the infamous "doo-be-doo-be-doo" coda
at the end of the track - a subtle knock, perhaps, at the song's trite lyrics.
Other rather cheesy singles were to follow: "Somethin' Stupid" (with
daughter Nancy), and "My Way" - written expressly for Frank by Paul
Anka (and another song, apparently, that Sinatra really didn't like).</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij8RWk-1uTkg1F_Gamw2sVSi3_IaLw2-c6Gia18TkzRr_4wUm558wOGImnd2n4pPqr7ORNUuxz5K5enYr4STwj1Q_D6YhCwA4et3LF6wvv-0I0tPepSVKD8zyV_vT2DiND6tcrkX_k2gU/s1600/iptmvsrage_med.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="358" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij8RWk-1uTkg1F_Gamw2sVSi3_IaLw2-c6Gia18TkzRr_4wUm558wOGImnd2n4pPqr7ORNUuxz5K5enYr4STwj1Q_D6YhCwA4et3LF6wvv-0I0tPepSVKD8zyV_vT2DiND6tcrkX_k2gU/s640/iptmvsrage_med.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">For the rock 'n' roll
generation - unaware of Sinatra's long run of superb concept albums for Capitol
Records in the 1950s - the stuff he was putting out in the mid-60s seemed decidedly
un-hip. Sinatra, meanwhile, wasn't shy about telling the press that he hated
rock 'n' roll. He was rumoured to be "in" with the Mob, and he was
hanging out regularly with the notorious Rat Pack at the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Sands</i> casino in Las Vegas. Bob Dylan was the ultra-hip
"spokesman for his generation"; and Sinatra seemed to have become an
"over-the-hill" crooner - putting out lame music for the over-30
crowd.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL40l7Zof7KM4niETgtRk9BqSoeIjP0_MdTXCVZcnD9ZRk2jE0ckPO5T6oBXeL8ijw6BDN8EYJZBumS0L0uHme8sWrv9s5P22-L9g5nBQOOrTfM0Xviqv6wSVXxKcDWbZ8yLjjucUGUCU/s1600/1401x788-136948860.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="358" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL40l7Zof7KM4niETgtRk9BqSoeIjP0_MdTXCVZcnD9ZRk2jE0ckPO5T6oBXeL8ijw6BDN8EYJZBumS0L0uHme8sWrv9s5P22-L9g5nBQOOrTfM0Xviqv6wSVXxKcDWbZ8yLjjucUGUCU/s640/1401x788-136948860.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">So when it was announced by
Columbia Records in early 2014 that Bob Dylan's next album was going to consist
of nothing but Sinatra covers, many boomers did a double-take. They were
unfamiliar, probably, with Frank's vast catalogue of recordings done of songs
from the "Great American Songbook". They were likely thinking of
"My Way" and "New York, New York", and wondering, perhaps,
exactly how Dylan was going to negotiate his way around this sort of trite,
sentimental, and bombastic material. Surely, many were thinking, this album was
going to be a disaster.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdqe_8a87LIq-ySFaATovZYVVuzVcveJ08hSsKymul9VZaeiZYK0Sn8LpcCKjuCFHa0AY-T_UynpK5NKvC6WNAHswLlgLFhQESvVmQ4F3hIzmMNhUcKKmE3qNjQrj8ElNOpj6b1JNROUU/s1600/Dylan+LP+cover+via+Todd+Alcott.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="391" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdqe_8a87LIq-ySFaATovZYVVuzVcveJ08hSsKymul9VZaeiZYK0Sn8LpcCKjuCFHa0AY-T_UynpK5NKvC6WNAHswLlgLFhQESvVmQ4F3hIzmMNhUcKKmE3qNjQrj8ElNOpj6b1JNROUU/s400/Dylan+LP+cover+via+Todd+Alcott.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Um ... not the album cover! <span style="font-size: x-small;">(artwork by Todd Alcott)</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">But Dylan, even in the
early-60s, had always been open to the vast landscape of American popular
music. Granted, he had positioned himself back than as a fellow-traveler in the
folk music scene - Woody Guthrie was his mentor, and his songs seemed steeped
in progressive politics. But before Woody, Bob was into Elvis and Johnny Cash
and Jerry Lee Lewis. So it made sense that when he wanted to escape the
straightjacket that had been imposed on him by the "spokesman for his
generation" tag, he would give his music a rock 'n' roll base.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Dylan was listening to
country and western, blues, country blues, western swing, and jazz. He was even
listening to a fair amount of commercial pop stuff - although he found the
lyrics of the typical "Tin Pan Alley" song trite and inauthentic. Indeed,
it was Dylan's approach to songwriting that became the new model - and it was beginning
to make the long-standing pop-song factories in New York City obsolete. But he <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">was</i> still soaking up everything on offer
under the vast umbrella of American popular music. This is clear if you're
familiar with Dylan's <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Theme Time Radio
Hour</i>; or if you grasp the underlying intention that animates recent albums
of his, like <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">"Love and Theft"</i>.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCiFjmPFllsE-78SwMj6mJ79Xb1z3UUFqeHotmxLanSd2C5hRiI-HTlvorwf_vk-8pFgg0Vm0bHcJVmn5lW0ostJCSbtK0ooMla3gnQaaKEfP8F_oJ4_fk59pDpllU4BploSRuT43OMFM/s1600/10946452_712492258866160_1901195925_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCiFjmPFllsE-78SwMj6mJ79Xb1z3UUFqeHotmxLanSd2C5hRiI-HTlvorwf_vk-8pFgg0Vm0bHcJVmn5lW0ostJCSbtK0ooMla3gnQaaKEfP8F_oJ4_fk59pDpllU4BploSRuT43OMFM/s320/10946452_712492258866160_1901195925_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;"></span><br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;"></span><br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">And this continuing interest
in the panoply of American popular music has emerged spasmodically during his
career. The much-maligned <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Self Portrait </i>(1970),
for example, seemed a half-hearted attempt to incorporate country, blues,
tin-pan alley pop, and cover-songs into a unified vision. But he let the
project get away from him; the production was pretty dreadful; and Dylan
himself doomed the enterprise by his steadfast refusal to justify or explain -
by willfully neglecting to put the work in its proper context. In the early
90s, he also did two albums full of traditional folk material: <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Good As I Been To You</i> (1992) and <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">World Gone Wrong</i> (1993). Many fans have
been so mesmerized by Dylan's brilliance as a songwriter, that they often balk
at any work that has him relying on traditional songs, or merely doing covers
of other songwriters - especially when he eschews any opportunity to explain what
it is he's up to. So, doing a complete album of standards, as an homage
to Frank Sinatra, is really not that strange a move for him.</span></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Shadows
in the Night</span></i><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;"> is Bob Dylan's 36th. studio album. It was
released by Columbia on February 3, 2015 - but had been a long time coming. One
of its tracks, "Full Moon and Empty Arms", was made available as a
free-stream way back in May, 2014. The title of the album, of course, is a nod
to <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Strangers in the Night</i> - it puts
the Sinatra connection up front, without being obvious about it. These are not
Sinatra songs, after all; they are pop standards made familiar through Frank's
recorded versions - and his versions often became definitive ones. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Dylan has also been smart in
not selecting any songs for this album that are completely identified with
Sinatra in the public mind. He picked personal favourites, rather than obvious
hits. Most of these tracks are versions of songs that Sinatra recorded in the
late 1950s - four of them, for example, come from Frank's 1957 album <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Where Are You?</i> There is a judicious mix
of familiar songs (that might entice the uninitiated) - "Autumn
Leaves", "Some Enchanted Evening", "What'll I Do", and
"That Lucky Old Sun" - and more obscure material, obscure that is to
those unfamiliar with Sinatra's albums of that period. But all of the songs
feature strong melodies; and most of the lyrics sit comfortably with Dylan's
attitude and concerns. </span></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-NxtlneWTCLRh20hM13iAACvCdjMzyYK2CF4Byni99kJOxg_5vRDjL1KpiBNxYCDKKeK4mPSp-UZG6ZcoMGva3LqfTA1hZ7SGz79R1DuSgnBESCGBHTDe4WKbRr-JpOHPi6qwTrmmhKg/s1600/dylan-_verylarge___2229131a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-NxtlneWTCLRh20hM13iAACvCdjMzyYK2CF4Byni99kJOxg_5vRDjL1KpiBNxYCDKKeK4mPSp-UZG6ZcoMGva3LqfTA1hZ7SGz79R1DuSgnBESCGBHTDe4WKbRr-JpOHPi6qwTrmmhKg/s400/dylan-_verylarge___2229131a.jpg" width="315" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">"Ol' Blue Eyes"?</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Dylan recorded <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Shadows in the Night</i> in Studio B at the Capitol
Records studios in Los Angeles - the very place that Sinatra often did his own recordings.
Dylan prepared for the recording of each track by listening carefully - over
and over - to the Sinatra original. He was trying to discern Sinatra's
intention with each song. He would then attempt to get the track done in only
two or three takes - to keep the music fresh. He worked diligently at making
the song his own. Dylan described the process of transmuting Sinatra in this
way:</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">"When you start doing these
songs, Frank's got to be on your mind. Because he is the mountain. That’s the
mountain you have to climb, even if you only get part of the way there. ... He
had this ability to get inside of the song in a sort of conversational way.
Frank sang to you — not at you. I never wanted to be a singer that sings at
somebody. I’ve always wanted to sing to somebody. ... Certainly nobody
worshipped Sinatra in the '60s like they did in the '40s. But he never went
away — all those other things that we thought were here to stay, they did go
away. But he never did."</span></div>
</blockquote>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">By the end of the recording
sessions, they had 23 songs in the can. But only 10 have been released on <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Shadows in the Night</i>. I think it is safe
to assume - given the critical success of the project - that another album will
be released from these tracks. Here's Dylan again, talking about the recording
process:</span><br />
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<blockquote class="tr_bq">
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">“I've wanted to do something
like this for a long time but was never brave enough to approach 30-piece
complicated arrangements and refine them down for a 5-piece band. That's the
key to all these performances. We knew these songs extremely well. It was all
done live. Maybe one or two takes. No overdubbing. No vocal booths. No
headphones. No separate tracking, and, for the most part, mixed as it was recorded.
I don't see myself as covering these songs in any way. They've been covered
enough. Buried, as a matter a fact. What me and my band are basically doing is
uncovering them. Lifting them out of the grave and bringing them into the light
of day.”</span></div>
</blockquote>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGKbd4ORO3HqebRHIRRtinSUpyB3Q1BgHxM9HMAKcVjnhAJ3alGk0bBWVAaxwBpIYRAc4Z1Hf_gB8onD0OV0HxBhgwR1c6sNhFDXwHDTLoJebQ5VUyCSoqarB9VNxZaqgo44iY-OCx5ZQ/s1600/Screen_Shot_2015-02-12_at_11.18.21_AM.png.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="420" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGKbd4ORO3HqebRHIRRtinSUpyB3Q1BgHxM9HMAKcVjnhAJ3alGk0bBWVAaxwBpIYRAc4Z1Hf_gB8onD0OV0HxBhgwR1c6sNhFDXwHDTLoJebQ5VUyCSoqarB9VNxZaqgo44iY-OCx5ZQ/s640/Screen_Shot_2015-02-12_at_11.18.21_AM.png.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Dylan's touring band - the combo featured on "Shadows in the Night"</span></td></tr>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Shadows
in the Night</span></i><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;"> has ten tracks, and it clocks in at 35:23.
Dylan is accompanied throughout the album by his touring band: Donnie Herron on
pedal steel guitar, Charlie Sexton and Stu Kimball on guitar, Tony Garnier on
bass, and George Receli on percussion. On three of the tracks there are horns
added: Andrew Martin, Francisco Torres and Alan Kaplan on trombone; Daniel
Fornero and Larry Hall on trumpet; and Dylan Hart and Joseph Meyer on french
horn. The album was produced by Bob Dylan (aka "Jack Frost") and it
was recorded and mixed by Al Schmitt.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">It all begins with "I'm
a Fool to Want You". It's an appropriate choice for the lead-off track,
because this is the one song on the album that was co-written by Sinatra. It also
happens to be one of the strongest vocal performances of the entire set. It's
quite a shock, actually, to hear His Bobness in such (relatively) fine voice. In
recent years his voice has often seemed almost completely shot. So when I heard
this opening track for the first time I was amazed. He presents the song with
care - hits every note spot on, and delivers the lyric with his usual attention
to nuance and phrasing. Although there is a certain frailty to the voice, it is
characterized by a rich baritone. The lyrics are fully enunciated; and he
sounds totally committed and fully engaged. His personality shines through.</span></div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/iOxy_hy22CA/0.jpg" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/iOxy_hy22CA?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Some other highlights of the
set are: "The Night We Called It a Day", "Where Are you?"
and "Why Try To Change Me Now". The latter song sounds particularly apt
for the infamously curmudgeonly performer: "Why can't I be more
conventional," he sings. "Don't you remember," he adds, "I
was always your clown."</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Of the familiar material, he
does creditable - if not very exciting - versions of "Autumn Leaves",
"What'll I Do", and "Some Enchanting Evening". The latter
choice seems rather preposterous - I cannot help thinking of the bombastic
version from the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">South Pacific </i>film,
which featured the Metropolitan Opera star Giorgio Tozzi dubbing in his bass-baritone
voice for actor Rosanno Brazzi. But, strangely enough, Dylan's understated
approach brings the focus back to the meaning of the song, rather than the
pyrotechnics of the vocal delivery. In the middle-eight, he offers this lyrical
gem from this Rodgers and Hammerstein song: "Fools give you reasons; wise
men never try." Doesn't that sound like Bob himself?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">The album closes with
another familiar song - "That Lucky Old Sun". This was a big hit for
Frankie Laine in 1949; but was also a hit, incredibly, for Vaughan Munroe, Frank
Sinatra, and Louis Armstrong - all in the same year. I know it best from the
Armstrong version - which features a rather cheesy arrangement, with strings
and ethereal chorus. The contrast in the lyric between the weary hardship of
the narrator and the indifference of the natural world has an authentic ring to
it and provides a <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>stoical conclusion to
this rather pensive album.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoH07BHrxllldjKiM4f82zumhJH6j2a6S8fbsRVuBtRoUZkU_GZaR1bbQiZd-jjYKLVNOq0YYuQu5KvzIBNBdtAtMT4jrQjpIQ4vzLKRwGx-y7pDFz_A2RappD0F8KcmSw-LkKJSZtZP4/s1600/bob-dylan-hop-farm-music-festival-2012-day-3-10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoH07BHrxllldjKiM4f82zumhJH6j2a6S8fbsRVuBtRoUZkU_GZaR1bbQiZd-jjYKLVNOq0YYuQu5KvzIBNBdtAtMT4jrQjpIQ4vzLKRwGx-y7pDFz_A2RappD0F8KcmSw-LkKJSZtZP4/s400/bob-dylan-hop-farm-music-festival-2012-day-3-10.jpg" width="301" /></a></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">When I reviewed Dylan's last
album, <a href="http://clive-w.blogspot.ca/2012/09/cd-review-bob-dylans-tempest.html"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Tempest</i></a>, I was quite scathing
about its shoddy production - done by Dylan himself, under his familiar
pseudonym, Jack Frost. I'm happy to note that this time around he has done a
thoughtful job in presenting his vocal performances in the very best light. For
starters, he has avoided lush, elaborate orchestral arrangements - the mistake
that Neil Young made on <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Storytone</i>.
Frank Sinatra could hold his own with orchestral backing by Nelson Riddle, Billie
May, or Gordon Jenkins. But that won't work with the likes of Neil Young and
Bob Dylan. And Dylan recognizes that. Instead, he uses a small-combo approach -
actually it's his own touring band. The sound is dominated by the pedal-steel-guitar-work
of Donnie Herron and the upright bass playing of Tony Garnier. The care Dylan
brings to the production is also shown by his occasional use of solo
instruments - which is very rare for him. He also adds some subtle but
effective horn arrangements on the first two tracks, and also the last. The
slightly expanded soundscape helps to bookend the set.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzEw4gUsKMysk12illEdVYrvq-IF1u22tjnc8JNtiNRFmbXkAEqLqWkZ0P6w65BnJL7KehF9B9rznuSSTpqo9AuhDA4xjRbnlXsqWoFzKoazAxAjsD1fCW6h61CQ4ZY0RpO5GxTdCN3iU/s1600/ows_141462746093453.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="462" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzEw4gUsKMysk12illEdVYrvq-IF1u22tjnc8JNtiNRFmbXkAEqLqWkZ0P6w65BnJL7KehF9B9rznuSSTpqo9AuhDA4xjRbnlXsqWoFzKoazAxAjsD1fCW6h61CQ4ZY0RpO5GxTdCN3iU/s640/ows_141462746093453.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">Although the laid-back and
simple arrangements work - they certainly present Dylan's vocals in the
best-possible way for this sort of material - there is a definite lack of
variety in the musical accompaniment.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The slow and stately pace of the mid-tempo groove can also get overly
lugubrious. The funereal tempo of "Autumn Leaves", for example, robs
the piece of any sense of forward momentum. The track, in fact, threatens to
come to a complete stop. And while Dylan's vocal
performances are surprisingly effective in this unfamiliar style, there is no
getting away from the fact that his weak vocal range betrays him at times - as
he strains to reach for a high note, or ducks one altogether. And he sometimes
breaks the long, arching sweep of a lyrical line, into staccato bits and pieces
- a common error of inexperienced singers trying to do American Songbook
standards. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">But, of course, Bob is not
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done to their utmost perfection go listen to them. This album is for Dylan fans
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debuted at number one on the UK Albums Chart, selling 22,031 in its first week.
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Clive Baughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10523779808271053053noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8282904905780175338.post-70374671777720261522015-04-25T19:57:00.002-04:002015-04-25T21:58:25.178-04:00Book Review: The Young T. E. Lawrence by Anthony Sattin<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiovEuRqA0FDwYsQsgZ-JBVPJhVf4c5V-msWgDxsTArWm8Hu8FfYwNFNgNPLs4Q5uGlnz4a8dhzyNyo6aX7rrHjpHmWy8RyU7pVNv91NF0EaMeUoRms82Yzlkmp-tJJYHDMfdcWoJ6C7sQ/s1600/Young+TE+Lawrence_978-0-393-24266-9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiovEuRqA0FDwYsQsgZ-JBVPJhVf4c5V-msWgDxsTArWm8Hu8FfYwNFNgNPLs4Q5uGlnz4a8dhzyNyo6aX7rrHjpHmWy8RyU7pVNv91NF0EaMeUoRms82Yzlkmp-tJJYHDMfdcWoJ6C7sQ/s1600/Young+TE+Lawrence_978-0-393-24266-9.jpg" height="400" width="261" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cover of the North-American edition</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The impression you get of the
young Thomas Edward Lawrence in the opening scenes of David Lean's superb
bio-pic <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Lawrence of Arabia</i> (1962) is that
of an inexperienced, delicate and feckless young man - an individual, it seems,
completely unfit for military life. Well, that view works dramatically; it
establishes a contrasting image of the man at the beginning of the film - a
view that will change decisively, as he adjusts himself to the rigours of life
in the desert. But the reality was far different than that. Lawrence was a man already
well-primed for the campaign to come - steeled, both physically and mentally,
by five years of experience in the Arabian desert. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> And this is what this recent
biography is all about. <u>The Young T. E. Lawrence</u> (published by W.W.
Norton & Co., 2014) documents the man's pre-war life in the Middle East as traveler,
researcher, adventurer, and archaeologist. It shows how Lawrence was quickly seduced
by the exotic culture he was thrust into - how he came to admire and champion
the Arabs, Kurds and Turks that he encountered in Palestine, Lebanon and Syria.
The book gives us, in other words, the back-story - to use modern parlance - that
helps to explain why Lawrence became, so quickly, such an effective leader of
the Arab Revolt.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">T. E. Lawrence was born in
Tremadog, Wales in 1888. He was Thomas on his birth certificate. Outsiders
called him Edward. Some of his friends called him "T. E."; but to his
family he was simply "Ned". His Arab companions dubbed him "El
Aurens". And after his war exploits in the Middle East brought him fame,
he was known publically as "Lawrence of Arabia" - a term that is
fixed forever, now, thanks to David Lean's epic film.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_BqNv-4VeVlMDHWVhSXojf4oc0iPU1yJdnduawARaBZHpKna1fUNf_djY1Z4xW90yJjweFVH7Q1V3AQKE2gBbW4YtNjXz1dCvs9l9MgM91cnG-VXbDB1u-IyPdvVyUiuJIKU1B6KtxNE/s1600/TE-Lawrence-brothers.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_BqNv-4VeVlMDHWVhSXojf4oc0iPU1yJdnduawARaBZHpKna1fUNf_djY1Z4xW90yJjweFVH7Q1V3AQKE2gBbW4YtNjXz1dCvs9l9MgM91cnG-VXbDB1u-IyPdvVyUiuJIKU1B6KtxNE/s1600/TE-Lawrence-brothers.jpg" height="400" width="332" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Lawrence (at far left) and his brothers</span></td></tr>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">When he was seven years old,
the Lawrence family moved to Oxford. As a young boy Lawrence was fascinated
with the medieval world. He was especially interested in Crusader knights; and
he took up the hobby - along with his friend Cyril Beeson - of travelling
around the Oxford area doing brass rubbings of their tomb images. His interest
in history attracted him to the Ashmolean Museum at Oxford University. He
became a regular visitor there, and worked for them as a volunteer during his
teenage years. On one noteworthy occasion, he took the initiative to search
ground that had been exposed by the demolition of some buildings in the city.
He managed to salvage some significant artifacts and donated them to the
Museum.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Lawrence had a yearning for
independence; he felt unhappy amongst the constraints of his family. Part of
the problem was the mystery surrounding his family background (he and another
brother were born illegitimately); part of it was because of the behaviour of
his domineering mother, who held his father - in Lawrence's phrase - as her
"trophy of power". Lawrence came to have a horror of families and of
sexual relationships. He seems, in fact, to have found the very idea of sexual
relations with a woman as repellant - although, strangely, he later proposed
marriage to a woman in 1910. There has been a perennial debate about the nature of Lawrence's sexuality. Some believe he was a homosexual with sadomasochistic
tendencies - a view reflected by Robert Bolt and Michael Wilson, who wrote the
screenplay for <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Lawrence of Arabia</i>. Anthony
Sattin weighs the evidence in this book and argues that Lawrence was probably
"asexual".</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In 1907, at the age of
nineteen, Lawrence entered Jesus College, Oxford, to study modern history. He
was an erratic student - extremely bright, but only worked really hard when he
found the subject matter of interest. He chose to do a thesis on medieval
military history.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In an early example of the
young man's determination and physical stamina, Lawrence did an epic cycling
tour of France between July and September, 1908, in order to study a series of
medieval castles and churches. In his seven weeks of cycling all over France,
he covered 2,400 miles - averaging 50 miles per day, every day. He seemed to
relish any physical challenge. And he enjoyed being away from England - free of
familiar people and places.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1ChtKy-r4ElyI7qbIhPT63gAUIuTO5jwSKTYfh7w7c1AQHi7jgINU_PKzNLHOZoXwMqsHTfy-iJgshLv1xQ4RhBRzHekIQG49T4SMwttodnYgsNsbC2vIoID_UzQEcR6qVfHJopB3Ocs/s1600/037a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1ChtKy-r4ElyI7qbIhPT63gAUIuTO5jwSKTYfh7w7c1AQHi7jgINU_PKzNLHOZoXwMqsHTfy-iJgshLv1xQ4RhBRzHekIQG49T4SMwttodnYgsNsbC2vIoID_UzQEcR6qVfHJopB3Ocs/s1600/037a.jpg" height="640" width="408" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Map showing Lawrence's walking tour route of 1909</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The following year Lawrence
spent six months planning an even-more grueling trip. He intended to do a
walking tour of areas of Palestine, Libya and Syria - as far south as Nazareth,
and as far north as Urfa in Syria. He wanted to visit, sketch and photograph a
series of Crusader castles as important research for the thesis he intended to
write as the culminating task of his B.A. degree. As part of his preparations
for the trip east, he wrote to "the expert on Arabia", Charles
Doughty, detailing his ambitious plans. Doughty's response was unambiguous:
"Long daily marches on foot a prudent man, who knows the country, would I
think consider out of the question." Lawrence rejected the advice and
continued with his plans. In the summer of 1909 he spent almost three months in
the Middle East - mostly in Ottoman-controlled Syria. He walked a total of
1,000 miles (1,600 km), averaging about 22 miles (35 km) per day. He was a
conspicuous sight - walking in his bespoke tailored-suit, with a backpack, tripod
and camera.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">All of his firsthand
research in France and the Middle East paid off. His thesis, entitled <i>The
influence of the Crusades on European Military Architecture - to the end of the
12th century</i><span style="mso-bidi-font-style: italic;">, earned him a degree with
first-class honours. He was awarded a postgraduate scholarship (called a Senior
Demyship) at Magdalen College, Oxford, in order to do research in medieval
pottery. It looked like his future lay in academia. But one of his tutors at
Oxford recalled Lawrence in these words: "He liked the curious; he studied
and did curious things. He had no taste for organized life and its conventions
and institutions; it was his instinct to be against them, and he readily
indulged his instinct." He certainly did. And that instinct led him away
from the academic life; his path was leading him inexorably towards a life of
action.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-style: italic;">The
eminent British scholar and archaeologist David Hogarth (D. G. Hogarth) had
been appointed as the new Director ("Keeper") of the Ashmolean Museum
in Oxford - a second home for Lawrence during his mid-teenage years. Hogarth
became a sort of father-figure to the younger man. Lawrence later described him
as "our father confessor and advisor ... our referee, and our untiring
historian." Hogarth had succeeded in financing, through several grants and
donations, an archaeological dig at the Hittite ruins of Carchemish, in Syria.
He had been given a two-year permit in 1910 by the authorities in
Constantinople (Istanbul). Carchemish was located on the Euphrates River, near
Jerablus. The ruins were buried under a huge <i>tell</i> - an artificial mound
created by the accumulated remains of ancient settlements at that site. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-style: italic;">Lawrence
had been looking for possible archaeological work during the summer of 1910 -
before he took up his scholarship at Oxford. He made inquiries at the Ashmolean
Museum and found out about Hogarth's project at Carchemish. Lawrence, of
course, was intrigued at the prospect of a dig happening in an area of Syria
he had been in the previous summer. He applied to join the team; and Hogarth
took him on immediately, because of the young man's historical interests, his
experience in the region, and his ability to thrive in difficult environments.
Lawrence became an integral part of the Carchemish dig. After his first season
of summer work there, he gave up his postgraduate work at Oxford and committed
himself fully to archaeology. The work at Carchemish was extended several
times, and Lawrence spent nearly all of four years unearthing the Hittite
settlement. He summarized his time at Carchemish in a letter to B. H. Liddell
Hart in 1931: "We dug hard for six months and I used to travel for the
rest of the year. We were there for four years and it was the best life I ever
lived ...".</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXW1ZaGqVvZPTTmeaB2Pv_g5nvWqlBqh2-inOs04GbrEUYP3K0MRx0jg_95vINq6CXhvHBcrz229jjhYByjg9OFMksA2JYqpEQRxBZGFt684mSeeapxgVy3ixCMdXECs484bZAs3latLY/s1600/Turkey-Ancient-City_Horo-635x357.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXW1ZaGqVvZPTTmeaB2Pv_g5nvWqlBqh2-inOs04GbrEUYP3K0MRx0jg_95vINq6CXhvHBcrz229jjhYByjg9OFMksA2JYqpEQRxBZGFt684mSeeapxgVy3ixCMdXECs484bZAs3latLY/s1600/Turkey-Ancient-City_Horo-635x357.jpg" height="358" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Lawrence (left) in blazer and shorts; Leonard Wooley (right): at the Carchemish dig</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-style: italic;">The
most important practical thing Lawrence learned in Carchemish was how to be a
leader of men. He became the foreman of the 150, or so, locals who were hired
to dig, scrape and haul. Lawrence learned Arabic, including significant amounts
of the local dialects. His workers were primarily Arabs, Kurds and Turks. He
came to admire these people and had little of the usual British sense of
superiority over so-called "inferior peoples". Lawrence came to believe
that civilisation "is the power of appreciating the character and
achievements of peoples in a different stage from ourselves."</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: small; line-height: 115%;">"The
foreigners come out here to teach, whereas they had much better learn, for in
everything but wits and knowledge the Arab is the better man of the two."</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-style: italic;">In
everything that Lawrence wrote during this pre-war period, it is clear that he
was filled with an exhilarating sense of freedom. When he was spending time
exploring other areas of Syria, he relished the pleasures of the open road. He
felt nothing but the thrill of unending possibilities. He had a clear sense of
purpose. He loved the feeling of having left all the complications and worries
of life back home; he felt at ease with his surroundings, and - more importantly
- he felt at ease with himself. He developed incredible willpower and that
trained him to survive the intense physical and mental demands imposed by the
climate and the way of life.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">In front of the house Lawrence built at Carchemish - his close friend Dahoum at left</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-style: italic;">At
Carchemish Lawrence achieved great success as a leader of men, and an agent of
the British interests he served. He admired the local men; and they liked him
in return. He began to share their lives. He began to imitate some of their
ways, and - in a significant and symbolic move - he even began to adopt their
dress. There is a photograph of Lawrence with a huge grin on his face as he
tries on the get-up of his close friend Dahoum. In the summer of 1912, Dahoum
visited England with Lawrence; he explained to one of Lawrence's close associates
there why he felt such devotion for his English friend:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: small; line-height: 115%;">"He
is our brother, our friend and leader. He is one of us, there is nothing we do
that he cannot do; and then he excels us in doing it. He takes such an interest
in us and cares for our welfare. We respect him and greatly admire his courage
and bravery. We love him because he loves us."</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">A rare grin from Lawrence - in native dress for first time</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-style: italic;">Remember,
this is four years before he got involved with the Arab Revolt. At the outbreak
of WW1 Lawrence was concluding work on antiquities found in the Sinai. In
October he joined the geographical staff of the General Staff (GSGS) as a
civilian - working on detailed maps of the Middle East. He soon enlisted.
Lawrence was posted to the Intelligence department in Cairo in December, 1914.
In March 1915, he wrote <i>Syria: the Raw Material</i> for the Intelligence Office.
It was a perceptive analysis of Syria - which then included Transjordan and
Palestine, based on his studies - but<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>also, of course, on his first-hand experiences in the region.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-style: italic;">The
Arab Revolt against the Turks began in June 1916 under the leadership of Sherif
Hussein. From mid-October to mid-November, 1916, Lawrence was sent as a liaison
officer by the Arab Bureau in Cairo, in order to investigate the relative
failure - so far - of the Revolt. He was instructed to meet with, and assess, Hussein's
four sons: Ali, Feisal, Abdullah, and Zeid. This trip into the desert is
described later in Lawrence's book <u>The Seven Pillars of Wisdom</u>. As he
explains in his book, it became evident to him that only Feisal seemed to be a
"leader with the necessary fire". Lawrence served with the Arab Revolt
from April 1917 until October, 1918 when he asked leave from General Allenby in
Damascus to return to England.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Prince Feisal in foreground; Lawrence in Arab headgear, second from right in the middle</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-style: italic;">Much
of the military activity Lawrence participated in involved attacks on the Hejaz
railway. He also led the celebrated attack on Akaba in early July, 1917 - the
depiction of this audacious campaign is a highlight of David Lean's <i>Lawrence
of Arabia</i>. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-style: italic;">But,
as Anthony Sattin's book makes abundantly clear, all of the physical and mental
resources that Lawrence brought to his WW1 exploits in the desert<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>were developed long before 1916-1918 - the
period dramatised in Lean's film. He had been seduced by the desert and its
people as far back as his walking tour of 1909. More importantly, perhaps, "he
was liberated by being out from his own place and away from his own people".
At home he was an outsider, tormented by a life from which he was desperate to escape.
Amongst the Arabs of Syria he felt at home. He was free to be himself. He was
ready to serve and lead the people he loved.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><u>The Young T. E. Lawrence</u> (published in the U.K. as <u>Young Lawrence: A Portrait
of the Legend as a Young Man</u>) includes 266 pages of text, three maps, 16
pages of photographs, 21 pages of end-notes, a six-page bibliography, and a
sixteen-page index.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Anthony Sattin is an
award-winning British journalist and the author of six books. Most of his books
deal with history and travel. Sattin's main area of interest is the Middle East
and Africa - particularly Egypt. He has lived and traveled in these regions for
more than two decades.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">A Hittite stone relief unearthed at the Carchemish archaeological dig</span></td></tr>
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Clive Baughhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10523779808271053053noreply@blogger.com0