Friday, 4 January 2013

Photo Essay : A Short Walk in Chawton, Hampshire


Here are some more photos taken during my visit to Chawton, Hampshire with my good friend Tony Grant on 10 August 2009. We were in Chawton to visit Jane Austen’s House Museum, but there were some other interesting things to see within walking distance of the cottage Jane lived in with her mother and sister Cassandra.

The fork in the Winchester and Gosport Roads - visible from the sitting room in Chawton Cottage


Chawton is a quiet village in north-east Hampshire, near to the small town of Alton. It was busier in Jane Austen’s time – the roads to Winchester and Gosport forked just outside their cottage. The area between where the roads divided used to have a pond, but it has long since been drained. Jane’s mother used to stand at the sitting room window of the cottage and watch the traffic go by.


A bus shelter next to Jane Austen's House Museum


This old-fashioned brick bus shelter sits right beside Chawton Cottage. What a nice spot to sit – whether you are waiting for a bus or not – whilst you read one of Jane’s novels! A good shelter from the rain or, conversely, the sun. 


Tony in Chawton - Jane Austen's House Museum on left, The Greyfriar pub on the right


Here’s Tony on the high street of the village. The bus shelter and Austen cottage are on the left, and The Greyfriar pub on the right. We visited both sides of the road!


Picturesque house in Chawton


Chawton is a very picturesque English village. Here is one example of some of the interesting buildings I photographed. We were walking south-west on the Winchester Road, at this point, towards the Gosport Road (A32).


Tony and I on the driveway to Chawton Manor

Half-way to the A32 from Jane Austen’s House Museum – about half a kilometre – you arrive at the entrance to Chawton Manor. The driveway leads not only to the Manor, but also to St. Nicholas’s Church. Let’s take a look!














Chawton Manor straight ahead; St. Nicholas's Church to the right




Chawton Manor is a seventeenth-century, Elizabethan manor house. It was once the home of Jane Austen’s brother Edward Austen Knight, who inherited it from his adopted father, Thomas Knight, in 1794. Edward offered the Chawton Cottage to his mother and sisters in 1808, when the bailiff of the Chawton estate died; the bailiff had been living in the cottage. They gratefully accepted the offer, and moved to Chawton from Southampton on 7 July 1809.



Entrance to St. Nicholas's Church 

This is St. Nicholas’s Church, which sits close by Chawton Manor. There has been a church on this site since the late-thirteenth century. The bulk of the church – as Jane Austen would have known it – was destroyed by fire in 1871. It was rebuilt in 1872. You can find a good history of the church on this web page









Interior shot of St. Nicholas's Church in Chawton

Here is an interior view of St. Nicholas’s Church. The nave is furnished with modern oak pews, which replaced the original varnished Victorian pews destroyed in the fire. One of the pews installed in 1733, which survived the fire in 1871 has been fixed to the west wall of the nave.


The graves of Jane Austen's mother and sister - both named Cassandra Austen
(Jane was buried in Winchester Cathedral)


Many Austen-fans will visit the Church to see the graves of Mrs. Cassandra Austen (Jane’s mother) and Cassandra Austen (her sister). Inside the Church there are memorials to the two women erected by her family. Jane’s mother died at Chawton in 1827 (aged 87); Jane’s sister, Cassandra, died at the cottage in 1845 (aged 72). Jane pre-deceased them both. She moved to Winchester from Chawton in May 1817, in order to be closer to her physician and died there on 18 July 1817 (aged only 41). Jane was buried in Winchester Cathedral.


A Shepherd's Hut


Parked beside the drive up to Chawton Manor (I don’t know if it’s still there!), was an old-fashioned shepherd’s hut – also known as a shepherd’s wagon. These things were used by shepherds in the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries as a moveable home during the season of sheep-raising and lambing. They often had iron wheels – like this one – and a corrugated iron roof.


"Hey, Gabriel Oak - you in there?" Chawton Manor in the background


The shepherd’s hut was a forerunner to the modern RV – it combined kitchen, dining area, bedroom, sitting room and storage space in one compact vehicle. Its strong axles and cast-iron wheels allowed it to be moved around constantly from field to field without the use of tarmacked roads. The older huts had a small stove in the corner to provide cooking facilities and to generate some warmth. Some huts had a window on each side, so that the shepherd could see the flocks. They also had a hinged stable-door at the open end. It would be positioned away from the prevailing wind so that the shepherd could hear his flock. This was the sort of contraption that farmer Gabriel Oak would have used when he was tending sheep in the opening section of Thomas Hardy’s Far From the Madding Crowd.


Leaving the Chawton Manor estate - turn right for Chawton village


A final view – this is the gate leading out of the driveway from Chawton Manor. Turn right to get back to Chawton village and a final look at the Jane Austen House Museum.






Photographs © Clive W. Baugh
(using a Nikon D7000 with a Nikkor 18-105 mm zoom lens)

Photo Essay: Jane Austen's House Museum in Chawton




Jane Austen
In August 2009, my good friend Tony Grant and I visited Jane Austen's House Museum in Chawton, in the north-east of Hampshire, England.  The photographs featured here were taken during that visit (10 August 2009).

Austen – like Tony and me – grew up in Hampshire, England. In fact, apart from brief periods in Oxford and Reading, when she was attending boarding school, and a five-year interlude in Bath (1800-1806), Austen spent most of her life in Hampshire.

She was born at the Rectory in Steventon, on 16 December 1775, to Reverend George Austen and Cassandra Austen (nee Leigh). She and her older sister Cassandra moved with their boarding school from Oxford to Southampton in 1783, where both girls contracted typhus, and Jane nearly died. After 33 years at the Steventon Rectory, the family moved to Bath in 1801, following George Austen’s retirement. With their father’s death there in 1805, his widow and two daughters moved into rented accommodation. Four of Jane’s brothers promised to support their mother and two sisters by providing annual contributions to their upkeep. And then, in early 1806, the women moved in with Jane`s brother Frank and his new wife at their home in Castle Square, Southampton.



Austen spent most of her life in Hampshire: Steventon, Southampton, Chawton and Winchester


When he was twelve years old, in 1780, Jane’s brother Edward had been presented to Thomas and Catherine Knight, wealthy relatives of his father George Austen. The Knights were a childless couple and they took a special interest in Edward, adopting him as their son in 1783. He became their legal heir. When Thomas Knight died in 1794 he willed their Godmersham estate to his wife Catherine; the rest of his property and estates were willed to Edward. Near the end of her life, Catherine moved to Canterbury and transferred legal ownership of Godmersham to Edward. So Edward Knight had now inherited three estates – Godmersham, Steventon and Chawton. Jane Austen later used the libraries at all three estates quite extensively.



Front of Chawton Cottage - the site of jane Austen's House Museum


In October 1808, when the bailiff at his Chawton estate died, Edward Austen Knight offered the bailiff’s cottage rent-free as a permanent residence to his mother and sisters. The large cottage was located in Chawton village. Like much of the property in the village, it was part of Edward’s estate, centred at the nearby Chawton Manor. The Austen women accepted the offer, and they moved into Chawton Cottage on 7 July 1809 – along with long-time family friend Martha Lloyd. Edward spent £80 making it more comfortable.

Looking across the courtyard at the back of Chawton Cottage


Chawton Cottage was actually a substantial brick house – built ca. 1712. It became an inn around 1770 – called “New Inn”. The inn survived for about 20 years; but by 1791 the building was back in private ownership. The house is now called officially Jane Austen’s House Museum, but it is known colloquially as Chawton Cottage.

Through the window of an outbuilding - looking at the back of Chawton Cottage


Jane Austen lived in the cottage for the final eight years of her life (July 1809 – May 1817). She moved to Winchester in May 1817, in order to be closer to her physician. She died there only two months later on 18 July 1817, and was buried in Winchester Cathedral. Jane’s mother remained in the Chawton Cottage until her death in 1827; and Cassandra did the same – she died in 1845. Martha Lloyd had left the house in 1828, after she had married Francis Austen.



Entrance into the museum from the side of the building

After Cassandra Austen’s death (Jane’s sister), the cottage was divided into three dwellings for farm-workers’ families in the area. It remained as such until 1947, when it was purchased from descendants of the Knight family by T. Edward Carpenter for £3,000. He had visions of setting up some sort of museum to Jane Austen, in memory of his son, who was killed in the war. Carpenter set up a public appeal and gained the assistance of the Jane Austen Society. With that help he was able to repair the cottage, have it fully endowed, and eventually opened as a museum administered by the Jane Austen Memorial Trust.

Chawton is nearby Alton in north-east Hampshire
Jane Austen’s House Museum is located in the village of Chawton, just off the A31, between Winchester and Aldershot – a mile, or two, from the town of Alton. It is visited by about 30,000 people each year. To get to it from London, you could take a train from Waterloo to Alton (hourly), and get to the cottage by bus or taxi. You could also get to it by bus from Winchester. By road, the main access routes are the M3, A31 and A32. Opening times vary according to the season. Telephone is 01420 83262. Their web page: http://www.jane-austens-house-museum.org.uk/index.php

Jane Austen seemed to know that this new home would be congenial to her writing; once they were settled into their new home, she immediately began preparing Sense and Sensibility for publication. She actually arrived at Chawton with three novels in draft-form: Sense and Sensibility, Pride and Prejudice, and Northanger Abbey. These first three were probably revised considerably before publication. And during her time in Chawton Cottage she wrote three more: Mansfield Park, Emma and Persuasion.


The cottage seen from the back garden
The Austen women were very happy in their new home. It was a quiet life full of domestic pleasures. They didn`t socialise much with the local gentry, but regularly entertained visiting family and friends. During her early, enthusiastic days in the new place, Jane wrote some doggerel verse to her brother Frank, in a letter designed primarily to congratulate him on the birth of his second child. Of their new situation she wrote:

Our Chawton home, how much we find
Already in it to our mind
And how convinced, that when complete
It will all other houses beat
That ever have been made or mended
With rooms concise and rooms distended



Austen wrote nearly every day, and seems to have been relieved of much of her portion of the household duties, in order to concentrate on her fiction. One of Jane`s daily obligations, however, was the preparation of breakfast: she didn`t work from the kitchen, she boiled water for the kettle in the dining room, in order to make the tea, and toasted bread at the fire. There was a small stash of sugar, tea and china kept in a cupboard in the alcove. The original fire grate and hob is still in this room.

The small table Jane Austen often sat at when she was writing


When breakfast was over, Jane would often take up her writing. In the same room there was a small round table. She would balance a small writing desk on top and set to work. If she was interrupted by callers, she would hide the manuscript she was working on under a large sheet of blotting paper. Characteristically, she also asked that a squeaky door leading into that room not be oiled – she liked the fact that it warned her of anybody’s approach. That was how privately she dealt with her novel-writing! The dining room was a favourite of Mrs. Austen. She liked to stare out of the new, Gothic-styled window her son Edward had installed, in order to watch the horse-drawn vehicles go by.

The window Mrs. Austen gazed out of to watch the passing horse-drawn traffic


The original window looking out from the sitting room had only been a few yards from the public road running through Chawton village. Edward had it filled in. 



The Hepplewhite bureau from Steventon Rectory

A bookcase was placed in front of where the window had been. The museum now has a Hepplewhite bureau-bookcase containing several rare editions of her works – there is, for example, a first edition of Pride and Prejudice that was once owned by Lady Caroline Lamb, a lover of Lord Byron. The bookcase, and several chairs, were originally in the Austens’ former home in the Stevenage Rectory. 











A Clementini fortepiano (ca. 1810) similar to the one Jane bought for the cottage


Also downstairs is a Clementini fortepiano (ca. 1810) – the same sort of piano that Jane bought for the house and enjoyed playing. The museum has eight music books in Jane`s own hand.

The bed in Jane Austen's bedroom


There are many interesting rooms on show at Jane Austen`s House Museum. Downstairs, apart from the dining room just mentioned, there were the drawing room and parlour. Upstairs there are six bedrooms, some of which have been remodelled to exhibit special parts of the museum`s collection. There is Jane`s bedroom – showing a bed of the Regency period (covered by the patchwork quilt made by Jane and her mother and sister). Despite the number of bedrooms in the house, Jane still shared the same bedroom with her sister.

My friend Tony Grant upstairs


One of the other bedrooms shows memorabilia of her two brothers – they had been active in the Royal Navy. Another room houses a display of period costumes from 1809-1845. Also displayed around the house are family items and furniture. Many original and facsimile letters and documents are displayed either on the walls, or in cases; and illustrations from Austen’s novels are also found displayed on the walls. There is Edward Knight’s Wedgwood dinner service from Godmersham  displayed on the dining room table. And there are also some of Jane’s personal things: a lock of her hair, some items of her jewelry, and examples of her needlework.

The bake house - one of the outbuildings used by the servants


Behind the main building, across the courtyard, there are several outbuildings. It was out here that the washing, brewing and baking were done. There is the original bake house. On one side of it is displayed Jane Austen’s donkey carriage. Jane and Cassandra used to go for a walk every day – often going into nearby Alton, only a mile away, in order to do some shopping. Their brother Henry was part-owner of a London bank. There was a branch of the bank in Alton, and the Austen family used it as a location where post could be delivered and collected. When Jane had been weakened by her final illness, she was too weak to walk – so a tiny carriage was rigged up for her, and pulled by a donkey.

Jane's donkey carriage - used when she was too weak to walk long distances


Chawton Cottage had a large garden – it’s still there – running along one side of the house and back behind the outbuildings. It features a substantial lawn, lots of flower-beds, plenty of trees and bushes to provide privacy, and a kitchen-garden to provide fruits and vegetables. The garden still contains many of the flowers and shrubs that Austen refers to in her letters: sweet williams, columbines, laburnum, lilac, etc.

The garden at Chawton Cottage


It was all rather idyllic. The women enjoyed a modest lifestyle – enjoying mostly a quiet, domestic life. Ideal, really, for Jane to focus on her novel-writing. Jane Austen’s niece Anna had this to say about the lifestyle she observed in Chawton Cottage:

“It was a very quiet life, according to our ideas, but they were great readers, and besides the housekeeping, our aunts occupied themselves in working with the poor and in teaching some girl or boy to read or write.”




Looking down an upstairs hallway


As Maggie Lane observes, what a pity it was that Austen would only get eight years in this wonderful home. Nonetheless, it was a time of great fulfillment for Jane, and – here at Chawton Cottage – she was able to revise, edit, write, and see through to publication the six novels upon which her literary legacy is built. 













As I mentioned earlier, during an earlier time than that of the Austens, Chawton Cottage had been an inn. After a long and careful look around Jane Austen’s House Museum, you might be in the mood for a drink to slake your thirst. Or a pub lunch – how about a pint of bitter and a ploughman’s lunch with a huge slab of stilton cheese? That’s what I enjoyed after my visit – right across the road from the museum, in a Fuller's pub called The Greyfriar.



After a long visit to Chawton Cottage, time for a visit across the road




Photographs © Clive W. Baugh
(using a Nikon D7000 with a Nikkor 18-105 mm zoom lens)


Main resources used:  Jane Austen's World (1996) by Maggie Lane, and Jane Austen's House Museum brochure and website.

Wednesday, 2 January 2013

Photo Essay: Thomas Hardy's Cottage in Dorset






Thomas Hardy (1840-1928)


Thomas Hardy (1840-1928) was an English novelist and poet who lived nearly all of his life near Dorchester in Dorset. He was born north-east of the town, in a village called Higher Bockhampton – although it now lies closer to the village of Stinsford. After apprenticing as an architect in Dorchester, Hardy moved to London in 1862 to study at King’s College. He never felt at home in London – he was very sensitive to the class divisions prevalent in society, and always felt socially inferior. He moved back to Dorset, and lived at home with his parents’ family in this cottage until 1874. He decided to become a writer.



Entry into Thomas Hardy's Cottage

Thomas Hardy first made his name as a novelist - later he became just as eminent a poet. He had a few false starts with some of his earlier attempts at novel-writing, but hit his stride with Under the Greenwood Tree (1872), A Pair of Blue Eyes (1873), and Far From the Madding Crowd (1874) – written while he was still living in the family cottage.

That's me in front of Hardy's Cottage


I have visited Hardy’s Cottage twice – both times with my good friend Michael Hoskinson. It is an inspiring spot – the house and its setting is very picturesque, and you can hike to the cottage from the car park through a very attractive wooded area called Thorncombe Woods. I took the photos that appear in this blog post during our second visit, in 2009.
A better view of the front of Hardy's Cottage



Thomas Hardy’s Cottage has been a National Trust property since 1948. Miss K. Hardy donated the home in her will. A small collection of Hardy items were given to the Trust in 1965.


The site of Hardy's Cottage - just off A35, east of Dorchester

To get to Hardy’s cottage from London, take a train from Waterloo to Dorchester. By car, coming from the east towards Dorchester, the roads from Bournemouth, Southampton, or Salisbury, eventually merge with the A35. You turn left off the A35 into the village of Stinsford about 3 km east of Dorchester. Roads west from Lyme Regis, or north from Yeovil and Sherborne also meet the A35  - on the west side of Dorchester.







Another view of the front of Thomas Hardy's Cottage


Hardy’s Cottage was built ca. 1800 at the end of Cherry Lane by Thomas’s grandfather, also named Thomas. It stood at the top of the hill, just off Cuckoo Lane. The main materials used for the house were cob for the walls and thatch for the roof. Cob was a building material made by compressing together earth, clay or chalk, reinforced with straw. Thatch, used for the roofing, was made from dried vegetation – usually straw, reed, sedge, rushes, or heather.

Inside Hardy's Cottage on the ground floor

The building has been renovated and slightly expanded over the years. It was eventually given extra weather protection with a facing of brick, or rendered cement.  It features typical crossbeams and latticed windows.
The parlour on the ground floor

Thomas Hardy was born in this cottage on 2 June 1840, the first of four children to Thomas and Jemima Hardy. He was born in his parents’ bed in the middle bedroom on the upper floor. Thomas senior was a local builder and stone mason; he used to pay his employees through the barred window at the back of the house. That window looked out over the heathland that stretched out behind the cottage – this area was probably the inspiration for Egdon Heath in Hardy’s novel The Return of the Native (1878).
Where Thomas Hardy was born - his parents' bed

The original entry into the cottage was where the second window from the left is, as you face the front of the house.
Thomas Hardy's bedroom

There are seven rooms in the cottage. The upper left bedroom (as you face the front of the house) was the bedroom of his sisters Mary and Kate. The larger middle bedroom belonged to his parents, Thomas and Jemima. And the small bedroom to the right was Thomas junior’s room – which he shared later with his younger brother Henry. When he moved back to Dorset from London, as a young man, he used this bedroom as his study and office. This was where he wrote his novels.
Michael in front of the window in Hardy's bedroom - later to become his study/office

Thomas Hardy with bicycle
After Thomas Hardy finally moved out of this cottage in 1874, he stayed loyal to its memory all of his life. Even after he’d built his own large house at Max Gate in 1885, he would visit the cottage nearly every week – on foot, or by bicycle. And on his birthday he would take a stroll through the woods behind the cottage (the Thorncombe Wood). Hardy continued to pay the rent on the cottage up until 1923 – even after his mother’s death in 1904.










The wild garden at the front of Thomas Hardy's Cottage


The garden in front of the cottage has changed dramatically over the years. I have visited there twice – the visits separated by about 30 years. The garden in 2009 looks wild and unruly – a traditional type of English Country cottage garden.

The lane leading to the car park and Thorncombe Woods behind Hardy's Cottage


Thomas Hardy’s Cottage is worth a visit if you plan to be in Dorset. It would be very inspiring if you’re a fan of the famed novelist-poet; and a lovely half-day outing in the country, if you’re not.
This amazing fish-eye view of Hardy's Cottage by PanoScope's "Little Planets"
http://www.littleplanets.panoscope.co.uk/